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Welcome to Erin Menke's Cabinet of Curiosities, a production of iHeartRadio and Grimm and Mil. Our world is full of the unexplainable. And if history is an open book, all of these amazing tales are right there on display, just waiting for us to explore. Welcome to the Cabinet of Curiosities. Gabrielle was born in 1883 in western France. Her childhood was destined to be a difficult one. Her her mother died when she was 12, and her father wasn't willing to look after her and her siblings, so he left them in the care of nuns and never came back. The nun's impact on Gabrielle would be unexpected. She hated how strict and chaste they were. She saw the glamour and the riches of nearby Paris and couldn't understand why anyone would intentionally live a life of poverty. However, the nuns did teach her the important skills she needed. They taught her how to sew and clean. She developed a preference for a clean home and immaculate hygiene. And these skills and traits would define her life and even lead her to change the world. By the time Gabrielle was 20, she was living in Paris and pursuing that glamorous life. She used her sewing skills to open up a hat shop in 1910, which immediately became a success. Some of the local cabaret performers took to wearing her hats, making them even more popular throughout the country. She soon began designing dresses as well. Gabrielle's preference for immaculate hygiene led her to notice that some of her rich clients were actually less hygienic than her. She thought many of them even smelled. She learned more about the world of perfumes, which up until this point was still not widely used. They had existed for millennia. But the advent of modern chemistry meant that safe synthetic fragrances could be developed that were affordable and would last on the skin for a long time. And so Gabrielle immediately commissioned a whole variety of perfumes, and she eventually settled on a scent that she wanted to sell. Not only would it make her money, but it would keep her from having to smell the BO of her clients as she fitted them for hats and dresses. All throughout the 1920s, Gabrielle became a Paris fashion icon. In addition to her popular perfume, she also invented the first little black dress, which is a simple and slim dress. In contrast to the big gowns of previous decades. She had liberated women's fashion, but she wasn't exactly a feminist. More than anything, she just wanted success and the money and power that came with it. She wanted to be a part of high society, to show that she was more than just an orphan raised by nuns. And so all throughout the 1930s, Gabrielle became known for having affairs with powerful men. At first, this was members of high society in France, but soon she was even involved with English royalty and friendly with the likes of people like Winston Churchill. And because of all of this, you would think that she would have sided with the Allies when World War II darkened over Europe. But again, all Gabrielle cared about was her own success. When the Nazis conquered France, Gabrielle quickly struck up an affair with German officer Hans Gunther von Dincklage. In addition to having the most German name imaginable, he was also a spy tasked with infiltrating the French Resistance. This seems to have been Gabrielle's most long lived and passionate affair. The fact that the Nazis were conquerors and anti Semites didn't seem to bother her. The reality is that most of the Western world was pretty anti Semitic at the time. It was a matter of degrees to her. The English, French and Americans tended to segregate Jews and keep them from positions of power, but they drew the line at systematically murdering them like the Germans did. Gabrielle, however, took full advantage of the Nazis anti Semitic laws. She had a few Jewish business partners with a stake in her business and she tried to essentially steal their stake from them. Under Nazi laws that stated Jews couldn't own their own businesses. This ultimately failed when those Jewish partners smartly sold their stake to a different French industrialist before fleeing to the United States. Toward the end of the war, as the Nazis continued to lose ground, Gabrielle and Hans tried to save face by negotiating a truce behind Hitler's back with Winston Churchill. But the Allies weren't interested. They continued their advance and retook Paris, arresting Gabrielle. In 1944, Hans fled to Switzerland. While Gabrielle was a Nazi collaborator, it seems that the Allies felt that she wasn't responsible for any crimes and she was released. Some believe her connections with English high society just might have had a hand in that. But her time as a collaborator remained a stain on her legacy. She never again had the same prominence in the fashion world and died bitter and alone in 1971. Today, Gabrielle Coco Chanel, as she was better known, is respected for her contributions to the fashion world. Her perfume, Chanel no. 5 is still in use. And of course, the black little dress is practically its own genre of clothing. Naturally, the extent of her antisemitism and collaboration with the Nazis will always be debated. Curiously, her insatiable desire for power actually undermined her success in the long run. If she had remained loyal to France, she would be remembered today as the saintly godmother of all modern fashion. Maybe she should have listened to those nuns. After all.
