Podcast Summary: "A Cookbook from Sofreh's Executive Chef"

Podcast: All Of It (WNYC)
Host: Alison Stewart
Guest: Nassim Alikhani, Executive Chef & Co-Owner of Sofreh
Date: November 23, 2023

Overview

This episode centers on the journey and culinary philosophy of Nassim Alikhani, executive chef and co-owner of Sofreh, a celebrated Brooklyn restaurant serving modern Persian (Iranian) cuisine. Alikhani discusses her new cookbook, A Contemporary Approach to Classic Persian Cuisine, her family's influence, cultural connections through food, and the power of perseverance in chasing dreams. The conversation provides a window into Persian culinary traditions, community building, and the personal story behind Sofreh's success.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Family Roots and Early Influences

[02:01]

• Nassim attributes her passion for cooking and her values around food to her parents.

  • Her father instilled a frugal, no-waste approach:

    "The rice belonged to the birds and the leftover bread were for the fish and the leftover bones for the dogs, the stray dogs. Nothing goes to waste. Everything is precious, everything has value."

  • Her mother sparked her love for the kitchen:

    "I woke up as a 8 year old, 12 year old, 15 year old, whatever age I was. I woke up to the smell of onion simmering. My mother had been awake and before all of us maybe 5am and preparing our lunch."

• Her father's lesson:

  "Leave every place better than you found it." (02:01)

2. Dedication to Husband and Partnership

[04:11]

• Nassim describes the support of her husband as essential, recognizing his acceptance of her unconventional life choices, especially opening a restaurant in her 50s:

  "You’re crazy, but you have always been crazy." (04:18) "...when the boat starts sinking, he comes and rescues." (05:27)

3. Late Start in the Restaurant Industry

[06:52]

• Nassim opened Sofreh at 59, confronting fears and self-doubt:

  "Am I fit to do this?...Am I good enough? Am I old, young enough to do this?" (07:06)

• On perseverance:

  "As long as you do the best you can...all the rest is up to the universe, how it receives it and how it gets back to you." (08:04)

4. Meaning of 'Sofreh' and Cultural Rituals

[08:45]

• 'Sofreh' means a tablecloth or cloth spread for eating, but culturally it embodies community, gatherings, and traditions such as:
  • Nowruz (Persian New Year)
  • Weddings
  • Acts of charity (Nazr)
• On community:

  "Sofreh means for me, community gathering, food, and also a sense of belonging..." (10:23)

5. Staples of Persian Cooking: Accessibility & Frugality

[10:57]

• Staples in the Persian kitchen: onions, turmeric, garlic, and—if affordable—saffron.
• On approachability:

  "You start with onion, you add turmeric and you begin. And as simple as that, you’re right." (11:54)

6. Food as a Springboard for Cultural Understanding

[12:18]

• Food as diplomacy and connection:

  "Food is the best ambassador to bring understanding. Even people who have no knowledge of outsiders...once we start tasting their food, sitting with them in a table, breaking bread, they're no longer outsiders." (12:45)

• On humanizing Iranians through food and hospitality:

  "I just wanted them to see me, my grandmother...the typical average woman who feeds her family with very basic means." (14:28)

7. Persian vs. Iranian—Language, Identity, and Representation

[16:43]

• Nassim prefers "Iranian" over "Persian" for inclusivity:

  "Iran is a country with borders. And when we say Persia, we only refer to the ethnic Persian food. ...I want to call my book and myself an Iranian more than anything." (17:31)

8. Key Dishes and Culinary Traditions

• Sofreh Bread (18:41):

  "It's really based on a traditional bread called sangak...We practice it in a simple pita oven and it became a hybrid. It tastes like sangak. It looks like bharberi...it's sofre bread." (19:19)

• Rice and its Significance (19:49):

  "You cannot have a stew, watery stew. How are you gonna...Are you gonna slurp your bowl literally on a floor? Like, this is not happening." (20:02)

  • On 'tadig,' the crispy rice:

    "We make it crispy. And what makes it super delicious is...it absorbs all the Starch from the rice, so it becomes almost buttery and sweet." (21:34)

• Use of Fruits in Dishes (22:17):
  • Example: Prune and Spinach Stew

    "Once you add the plum, they add the just perfect balance. And with the zest of a lemon and lime, with the perfect balance of sweet and sour, that dish comes to life." (24:00)

9. Devotion to Eggplant

[24:20]

• Eggplant ("bademjun") as a beloved, versatile vegetable.
• On convincing skeptics:

  "Eggplant is an understated vegetable that is like a sponge...You give it attention and a care and love. It gives you back the same attention and love." (25:41)

10. Advice for Dreamers and Immigrants

[25:53]

• Nassim's advice on coping with despair and building community:

  "Find ways, tools to get you out and never ever stop dreaming. Never. But have a...Just like dreams should never die." (26:19)

• On turning adversity into opportunity:

  "...Instead of waiting and ranting and complaining, do something about. And I did. And it brought so much joy, plus an amazing marketing research...those volunteer cookings for various projects became my menu at Sofre." (27:55)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• "Leave every place better than you found it." – Nassim’s father (02:01)
• "You’re crazy, but you have always been crazy." – Nassim’s husband (04:18)
• "Food is the best ambassador to bring understanding." (12:45)
• "Eggplant is an understated vegetable that is like a sponge...It gives you back the same attention and love." (25:41)
• "Never stop dreaming." (26:19)

Timestamps for Key Segments

| Timestamp | Segment | |------------|------------------------------------------------| | 02:01 | Nassim on family lessons and origins | | 04:11 | Dedication to her husband | | 06:52 | Starting a restaurant at 59 | | 08:45 | Meaning and traditions of 'Sofreh' | | 10:57 | Staples in a Persian kitchen | | 12:18 | Food as cultural bridge and diplomacy | | 16:43 | Persian vs. Iranian – terminology explained | | 18:41 | Sofreh bread: adaptation and tradition | | 19:49 | The importance of rice and tadig | | 22:17 | Use of fruits and a special stew | | 24:20 | Eggplant: recipes and misconceptions | | 25:53 | Advice for immigrants and dreamers |

Tone and Language

The conversation is warm, reflective, and imbued with gratitude, humor, and straightforward honesty, echoing both the host's curiosity and the guest's eloquence and humility.

Conclusion

This episode is a rich exploration of how food transmits culture and personal history. Through stories, family lessons, and detailed culinary insights, Nassim Alikhani invites listeners into the heart of Iranian cuisine, celebrating its accessibility, depth, and power to connect people across boundaries. Her personal journey from immigrant to chef-restaurateur offers inspiration to anyone seeking purpose, community, or a new dream—reaffirming the universal language of food.