Episode Summary: "A New Documentary Celebrates Raoul's"
All Of It from WNYC, hosted by Alison Stewart, delves into the rich history and cultural significance of Raoul's, a beloved French bistro in SoHo, through the lens of a newly released documentary titled "Raoul's: A New York Story." Released on June 11, 2025, the episode features insightful discussions with the documentary’s co-directors, Karim Raul and Greg Oliver, alongside engaging listener anecdotes that paint a vivid picture of Raoul's enduring legacy.
Introduction to Raoul's and the Documentary
The episode opens with Alison Stewart setting the stage for the conversation:
“When the beloved French Bistro Raoul's opened 50 years ago, SoHo was different... SoHo has changed, but Raoul's remains the same...” [00:09]
Raoul's was established in December 1975 by French brothers Serge and Guy Raoul, serving classic bistro fare to a burgeoning community of artists, models, and actors in a then-undeveloped SoHo neighborhood. Despite the dramatic transformation of SoHo over the decades, Raoul's has retained its charm and authenticity, now under the partial ownership of Karim Raul, Serge's son.
Karim Raul shares his personal journey:
“Karim's dream was to be a filmmaker. In fact, he says at one point in the documentary that he wanted nothing to do with Raoul's. And though he stepped away from filmmaking to run the restaurant, he's now achieved his dream of making a movie.” [00:09]
The documentary, "Raoul's: A New York Story," premiered at the Tribeca Festival and explores the intricate relationship between the restaurant and the cultural evolution of SoHo.
Development of the Documentary
Alison invites Karim Raul and co-director Greg Oliver to discuss the documentary's inception:
“Back in 2010, something like that? 2010.” [01:55]
Karim explains that the documentary began organically as he captured footage during weekends while initially intending only to practice filmmaking. Greg Oliver recounts his first encounter with Raoul's in 2010, which blossomed into a deeper involvement:
“A New York crowd with a New York movie, with a New York story. Couldn't have been better, right?” [01:19]
As the project evolved, Karim became a central figure in the narrative, transforming from a behind-the-scenes filmmaker to a key character overseeing the restaurant.
Listener Memories and Personal Stories
Throughout the episode, Alison encourages listeners to share their personal connections to Raoul's. Several calls enrich the narrative:
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Claude from Jersey City reminisces about celebrating his 30th birthday at Raoul's and meeting his wife there:
“Raoul's is always there... it's always will be.” [08:43-09:53]
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Mac from Tribeca describes a memorable night in the 90s when the waitstaff spontaneously performed in drag, highlighting the restaurant's vibrant and unpredictable atmosphere:
“We kept waiting and dragging the meal out...it was a one-time thing.” [10:51-11:47]
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Claudia from SoHo shares her enduring affection for Raoul's, emphasizing the familial bond with long-time staff member Eddie:
“Eddie, who I knew a long time and really was enormously fond of...he's still there going on 48 years.” [17:18-19:32]
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Lisa evokes sensory memories of late-night performances and lively entertainment at Raoul's:
“All of a sudden all the lights would go out and a spotlight would come on...” [26:57-27:52]
These anecdotes underscore Raoul's role as a cultural staple in the community, fostering lasting relationships and memorable experiences.
Historical Context and Evolution of SoHo
Karim and Greg provide a historical overview of SoHo during Raoul's early years. Greg describes the neighborhood in the 70s as:
“Completely empty, completely barren... giving away floors in SoHo for, like, I think, was it five grand a pop or something... it was something insane.” [07:10-07:43]
Raoul's was among the first establishments in a then-desolate area, alongside Fenelli's. Karim reflects on Raoul's unintended yet profound influence on SoHo's transformation:
“SoHo sort of changed and evolved around it. And I feel like Raoul's sort of, I think, more or less stayed the same.” [08:12-08:34]
The restaurant became a nexus for artists and culinary innovators, playing a pivotal role in shaping SoHo's identity.
Dynamics Between Serge and Guy Raoul
A significant portion of the discussion centers on the relationship between the Raoul brothers. Greg Oliver portrays Guy as an emotionally open and influential chef whose culinary style was instrumental in Raoul's success:
“Guy's one of my favorite characters...there was a lot of, like, brotherly, like, complications in their relationship.” [15:24-15:55]
Karim delves into a pivotal disagreement between Serge and Guy regarding the hiring of renowned chef Thomas Keller. This conflict not only affected the restaurant's operations but also hinted at deeper generational and professional tensions within the family business.
Challenges and Adaptations
The episode addresses the physical and operational changes Raoul's has undergone, particularly under Karim's leadership. Major renovations altered the restaurant's layout:
“The kitchen had to go underground for some weird reason. It's just tons of things happen...” [23:02-24:26]
Karim discusses survival strategies during the COVID-19 pandemic, highlighting the restaurant's resilience:
“We started selling sandwiches...we were one of the first restaurants ever opened in the neighborhood.” [25:02-26:05]
These adaptations reflect Raoul's ability to navigate crises while maintaining its cultural essence.
Culinary Innovations and Legacy
Karim shares a notable story about introducing the now-famous Raoul's burger:
“Josh Ozerski came in from Esquire magazine and called it the best burger in America...now there's 12 people lined up every day to get a burger when we open.” [23:02-24:17]
This anecdote illustrates Raoul's blend of tradition and innovation, honoring classic French bistro fare while embracing new culinary trends.
Impact on the Neighborhood and Community
Reflecting on SoHo's transformation, Karim observes:
“There's good and bad because...more foot traffic than there ever has been. We're busier than we ever have been...the artists that created the neighborhood are no longer there because they can't afford to be there.” [25:15-26:23]
This duality highlights the complexities of urban development, where economic growth coexists with cultural displacement.
Conclusion and Future Outlook
As the documentary concludes, Karim expresses optimism about Raoul's entering a new chapter:
“It’s like a building, this new respect of everybody...a very cozy sort of family vibe in there.” [19:52-20:28]
Greg Oliver reflects on the personal growth and transformation observed over the years:
“He turned into Serge in the end of our film...there was a lot of, like, brotherly...complications.” [21:06-21:59]
The episode wraps up with a teaser for the documentary’s continued availability at the Tribeca Festival and a nod to upcoming live music, leaving listeners eager to delve deeper into Raoul's storied legacy.
Key Takeaways:
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Raoul's as a Cultural Landmark: Raoul's has been a cornerstone of SoHo's cultural and culinary scene for five decades, influencing and reflecting the neighborhood's evolution.
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Documentary Insights: "Raoul's: A New York Story" offers an intimate look into the family dynamics, culinary innovations, and community impact surrounding the restaurant.
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Listener Engagement: Personal stories from listeners enrich the narrative, showcasing Raoul's role in individual lives and the broader community.
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Adaptation and Resilience: Raoul's ability to adapt through renovations and crises like the COVID-19 pandemic underscores its enduring relevance.
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Balancing Tradition and Innovation: The introduction of the Raoul's burger exemplifies the restaurant's commitment to honoring its heritage while embracing new trends.
For those interested in exploring the rich tapestry of New York City's culinary history, the documentary "Raoul's: A New York Story" serves as a compelling tribute to a legendary establishment that has stood the test of time.
