All Of It: Asian Heritage Chefs Who Cooked for U.S. Presidents

Episode Release Date: May 14, 2025
Host: Alison Stewart
Guests: Adrienne Miller and Deborah Chang
Podcast: All Of It by WNYC

Introduction to the Episode

In this enlightening episode of All Of It, host Alison Stewart delves into the rich history of Asian heritage chefs who have served in the White House, preparing meals for U.S. presidents and their guests. In celebration of Asian American and Pacific Islander Heritage Month, Stewart welcomes co-authors Adrienne Miller and Deborah Chang to discuss their new book, Asian Heritage Chefs in the White House: Cooking to the President's Taste.

Exploring the Book's Significance

Adrienne Miller introduces the book as a "unique window on the American presidency" through the lens of Asian heritage cooks, highlighting that such a comprehensive exploration had never been undertaken before. (02:17) She emphasizes the historical span of over a century covered in the book, revealing previously unknown facets of White House culinary history.

Deborah Chang adds that the book sheds light on Asian American contributions to U.S. history, perspectives that are often overlooked. (02:43) By focusing on chefs like Li Ping Quan, Anita Lo, Ariel De Guzman, and Edward Lee, the authors present a narrative that intertwines culinary excellence with cultural diplomacy.

Research and Collaboration

Adrienne Miller shares her research journey, beginning at the University of Denver where she discovered Li Ping Quan's 1939 cookbook in the Special Collections. Initially researching African American presidential chefs, she pivoted to explore Asian heritage chefs after stumbling upon Quan's memoir. This discovery led her to delve into historical newspapers, presidential memoirs, and National Archives records, particularly those of the presidential yacht. (02:58)

Deborah Chang explains her role in the project, which involved bringing recipes to life. With a background in culinary school and professional cooking, Chang was instrumental in translating historical recipes into versions that could be prepared in modern kitchens. (04:03) Their collaboration underscores the blend of historical research and culinary expertise that brings the book to fruition.

Behind the Scenes of Presidential Kitchens

Adrienne Miller recounts the story of Li Ping Quan, a Chinese immigrant trained as a chef who served presidents and later opened restaurants in New York City and Maine. She praises Quan's "moxie" and skill, particularly his ability to adapt and excel in various culinary settings. (04:52)

Miller discusses specific anecdotes, such as the favorite curry and rice dish of President Calvin Coolidge and the playful tension between Quan and President Herbert Hoover over the decommissioning of the presidential yacht, USS Mayflower. When Hoover decided to retire the yacht, Quan responded by refusing to bake a cake for Hoover's birthday, humorously stating, "no Mayflower, no cake." (05:39)

Deborah Chang highlights the originality of Quan's cookbook, noting that he prioritized Chinese recipes over traditional American state dinner dishes. This arrangement was unusual for the time and served as a significant entry point for Chang's involvement in the book. (06:32) She also praises Quan's versatility in preparing everything from elegant state dinners to everyday family meals, showcasing his exceptional culinary range.

Becoming a White House Chef

Adrienne Miller outlines the pathways through which Asian heritage chefs entered White House kitchens. Historically, many enlisted in the Navy as a route to U.S. citizenship and eventual placement on the presidential yacht. In the 19th century, familial connections often played a role, with some chefs being family cooks of the president. Today, becoming a White House chef typically involves building a strong professional reputation and networking within the culinary and governmental communities. Positions are announced as civil service roles, with chefs undergoing rigorous evaluations to ensure they can cater to the diverse tastes of the First Family. (08:16)

Culinary Diplomacy and U.S. Foreign Policy

The episode explores how Asian heritage chefs played a role in U.S. foreign policy through their culinary creations. Adrienne Miller shares an intriguing story involving Ireneo Esperancilla, a presidential yacht steward who served meals during President Roosevelt's meetings with Joseph Stalin. Despite Stalin's mistaken belief that Esperancilla was Japanese, Esperancilla adeptly managed the situation, showcasing grace under pressure. (13:41)

Miller emphasizes the delicate balance chefs must maintain in state dinners—highlighting American ingredients while catering to the tastes and dietary preferences of visiting dignitaries. This culinary diplomacy serves as a subtle yet significant aspect of international relations.

Adapting Historical Recipes for Modern Kitchens

Deborah Chang discusses the challenges of translating historical recipes into formats accessible for today's home cooks. Using the example of Mrs. Coolidge's favorite chicken chow mein, Chang explains how she adapted ingredients to suit contemporary tastes and available produce. She faced decisions on substituting fresh ingredients for those that were likely used a century ago, ensuring historical accuracy while maintaining practicality. (11:19)

Chang reflects on the broader impact of including recipes in the book, stating that it allows readers to connect with history through cooking, offering a tangible link to the past. (15:02)

Cultural Integration Through Cuisine

Deborah Chang underscores the role of food as a cultural connector, illustrating how Asian heritage chefs introduced dishes unfamiliar to American presidents, thereby fostering cross-cultural understanding. She notes that presidents like Harding and Coolidge were open to experimenting with Asian cuisine, appreciating dishes such as chicken chow mein and utilizing ingredients like water chestnuts and bamboo shoots. (09:55)

Chang believes that these culinary exchanges demonstrated a willingness to embrace diversity and served as early examples of globalization in the White House kitchen.

Legacy and Further Exploration

Adrienne Miller reflects on the broader implications of their research, highlighting how Asian American chefs have significantly influenced White House culinary traditions. She points out the historical shift from African American to Asian American chefs in naval positions following the Spanish-American War, revealing underlying racial dynamics and prejudices of the time. (16:25) Miller views the book as an appetizer for further exploration into Asian American contributions to the American presidency, advocating for a deeper understanding and appreciation of this legacy.

Final Thoughts and Takeaways

Deborah Chang expresses her hope that the book not only highlights Asian American leadership in the culinary field but also provides readers with an opportunity to engage with history in a meaningful way. By cooking the featured recipes, readers can forge a personal connection to the stories and contributions of these chefs. (15:02)

Adrienne Miller adds that the book serves as an educational tool, enriching the American historical narrative with stories of resilience, talent, and cultural exchange among Asian heritage chefs in the White House.

Conclusion

This episode of All Of It offers a comprehensive look into the often-overlooked contributions of Asian heritage chefs in shaping the culinary landscape of the White House. Through meticulous research and passionate storytelling, Adrienne Miller and Deborah Chang illuminate the intertwined narratives of food, culture, and politics, inviting listeners to appreciate the profound impact these chefs have had on American history.

Notable Quotes:

• Adrienne Miller: "This is a unique window on the American presidency told from the perspective of Asian heritage cooks." (02:17)

• Adrienne Miller: "His flavor profile towards President Hoover was salty." (05:35)

• Deborah Chang: "Asian American contributions are brought to the forefront and where Asians are in an important leadership role." (15:02)

• Adrienne Miller: "Our first families learn a little bit about what it was like to be an Asian American in our country." (16:25)

This detailed summary captures the essence of the episode, highlighting the key discussions, insights, and historical narratives shared by the guests. It provides a comprehensive overview for those who haven't listened to the episode, offering valuable perspectives on the intersection of culinary arts and cultural history in the context of the American presidency.