Podcast Summary: All Of It – "Cold Weather Cooking"

Host: David Fuerst (in place of Alison Stewart)
Guest: Andy Gosnell, Assistant Editor at Food and Wine
Release Date: February 21, 2025
Duration: Approximately 20 minutes
Episode Title: Cold Weather Cooking

Introduction: Embracing Winter with Hearty Meals

In the latest episode of All Of It, hosted by David Fuerst in place of Alison Stewart, the conversation centers around the joys and necessities of cooking during the colder months. With advancing winter weather bringing snow, biting winds, and icy subway platforms, the episode explores how a good hot meal can serve as the perfect antidote to chilly days. David introduces Andy Gosnell from Food and Wine as a guest to delve into the art of preparing hearty, one-pot meals that not only warm the body but also minimize trips to the grocery store during harsh weather conditions.

The Dutch Oven: A Winter Kitchen Staple

Andy Gosnell opens the discussion by highlighting her personal winter cravings: "Yeah, for me, it's all about the soups and the stews and the casseroles" (01:11). She emphasizes the practicality of one-pot dishes that allow home cooks to utilize pantry staples, reducing the need for frequent grocery runs. This practical approach is particularly beneficial in winter when venturing out can be daunting.

The conversation naturally shifts to the Dutch oven, a versatile piece of cookware ideal for winter cooking. Andy recounts why Dutch ovens were featured on the cover of Food and Wine last winter. She explains that the Dutch oven’s broad appeal lies in its versatility and the emotional connection it fosters among users. "We all got into a long tangent conversation that probably lasted over an hour about how many different ways people use their Dutch ovens" (01:56). Andrew lists the key features that make Dutch ovens invaluable: tight-fitting lids, high sides, and heavy cast iron construction, which collectively ensure excellent heat retention and even cooking. These traits make Dutch ovens perfect for transitioning from stovetop to oven without the need to transfer contents, enhancing convenience and efficiency in the kitchen.

Choosing the Right Dutch Oven: Brand Recommendations

When discussing the best Dutch ovens available, Andy mentions well-known brands like Le Creuset and Staub, both revered for their quality and performance. She shares insights from a Food and Wine team test, highlighting the Staub 5.5 quart Round Cocotte as a top performer for its heat retention and aesthetic appeal (03:22). For budget-conscious listeners, Andy recommends Lodge and Cuisinart as reliable and more affordable alternatives without compromising on functionality. "Lodge has a fabulous collection of cast irons and particularly their Dutch oven is on the more affordable side. It does great for everything from searing chicken thighs. Amazingly durable and super budget-friendly" (03:22).

Hearty Winter Recipes: From Beef Picadillo to Tortellini Soup

The episode features a variety of winter-friendly recipes, each designed to be prepared in a single pot, minimizing both cooking time and cleanup.

1. Beef Picadillo:

   • Listener Pedro shares his experience with beef picadillo, a flavorful dish he prepared for his family, especially comforting for his wife who was ill. "It took me like, I don't know, half an hour, maybe 40 minutes all in one pot" (04:37). The addition of chilies not only enhanced the flavor but also provided a subtle warmth that was much appreciated by his wife.

2. Chicken Tortellini Soup with Kale:

   • Andy describes this soup as a family favorite that combines store-bought quick cooking tortellini with fresh vegetables and kale. "It's a really fun dish. It has a very light flavor, but you're also getting these, like, hearty notes of like, almost like Nona made it for you" (07:09). The recipe is praised for its balance of flavors and its ability to be made ahead and frozen, making it an ideal option for busy winter days.

3. King Ranch Casserole:

   • This Tex-Mex inspired dish is likened to lasagna with a twist. Andy explains, "It's got all this cream and chili pow tomatoes, a little bit of salsa matcha on the top, which is this beautiful dried chili oil from Mexico and then shredded chicken" (13:57). The casserole leverages rotisserie shredded chicken, highlighting the convenience and flavor it adds to the dish.

Listener Contributions: Memories and Recipes

The episode warmly incorporates stories and recipes from listeners, adding a personal touch to the discussion.

• Edith from Manhattan shares a cherished memory of her mother preparing homemade pea soup with ham on cold Vermont days. "I would come home from school freezing, and I open the door to my home and my mother would be on the stove, in a cast iron pot, a homemade from scratch pea soup" (08:11). This memory underscores the emotional comfort that hearty meals can provide during winter.

• Amanda Razone from Morning Edition introduces Dominican Sancocho, a rich broth-based stew with potatoes, fatty meats like pork chunks, and chicken thighs. Andy relates this to her own Filipino heritage, noting similarities with familiar dishes that emphasize thickened, flavorful broths enriched with concentrated meaty flavors (09:23-09:48).

Cooking Techniques: Dry Roasting and Bone Broth

Dry Roasting Vegetables: Andy shares her favorite technique of dry roasting vegetables in a Dutch oven, particularly recommending dry-roasted beets. This method involves roasting without oil or water, allowing vegetables to caramelize and concentrate their natural flavors. "You can get this way of caramelizing and really just soaking in all those concentrated flavors in a way that you can't do by adding water or oil" (05:48-06:37). This technique is praised for its ability to enhance the taste and texture of vegetables uniquely suited to the characteristics of a Dutch oven.

Homemade Bone Broth: Naomi from Brooklyn highlights beef bone broth as her winter cooking hack, noting its ability to elevate dishes by adding richness and umami. Andy echoes this sentiment, advocating for the preparation of homemade stocks: "The flavor that you get from doing it on your own is just absolute peak" (12:37-13:05). Homemade bone broth is celebrated for its depth of flavor and nutritional benefits, making it a staple for enhancing winter recipes.

Equipment Insights: Dutch Ovens, Instant Pots, and Air Fryers

Old vs. New Dutch Ovens:

Listener Brian from Bloomfield, NJ inquires about using vintage Diamond Craft Dutch ovens made of aluminum, inherited from his grandmother. Andy reassures him of their safety but notes the differences in heat retention compared to modern materials like cast iron or enamel cast iron. "The heat retention on the aluminum is probably not quite as strong as cast iron or enamel cast iron" (10:30). She suggests that upgrading to cast iron varieties can enhance cooking performance, particularly for even heat distribution and avoiding hot spots.

Instant Pots vs. Dutch Ovens:

A recurring question addresses the merits of Instant Pots compared to traditional Dutch ovens. Andy acknowledges the convenience factor of Instant Pots, especially for setting timers and reducing cook times. However, she champions the Dutch oven for its aesthetic appeal and the tactile control it offers over the cooking process. "I think there's something about the Dutch oven where you're kind of leaving nothing to chance... it has been around since the 17th century. This pot is really tried and true" (15:19-16:34). While Instant Pots provide efficiency, Dutch ovens offer a timeless cooking experience that many home cooks value.

Air Fryers and Dry Roasting:

When discussing air fryers, Andy commends their convenience but contrasts them with Dutch ovens for specific tasks like dry roasting. She explains that the Dutch oven's tight-fitting lid retains moisture and evenly redistributes it during cooking, ensuring that roasted vegetables do not dry out. "If you're doing an air fryer, you're not necessarily getting that circular moisture retention" (16:42-17:28). This makes Dutch ovens preferable for dishes where moisture retention and flavor concentration are crucial.

Community and Shared Experiences

The episode emphasizes the importance of community and shared culinary experiences, reflecting the show's mission to engage diverse perspectives in cultural discussions. Listeners like Sarah from the Upper West Side express long-term relationships with their Dutch ovens, illustrating the cookware’s enduring presence in family traditions and personal lives. "It's probably my longest relationship and I love making cholent in it... this Dutch oven, it's tried and true and stands by me" (17:44-18:18). These anecdotes highlight how specific kitchen tools and recipes become integral to personal and cultural identities.

Conclusion: Embracing Comfort and Convenience

As the episode draws to a close, Andy directs listeners to Food and Wine’s website for more Dutch oven recipes, encouraging experimentation and exploration in winter cooking. "You can search Dutch oven recipes on our site and a bunch of beautiful galleries will come together for anything from weeknight skillet chili to whole roasted chicken" (18:26). Listeners are reminded of the versatility and enduring appeal of Dutch ovens, making them indispensable for hearty, comforting winter meals.

Notable Quotes

• Andy Gosnell on Dutch Oven Features:
  "the high sides, the tight fitting lid, and the heavy bottom cast iron material... are really great for heat retention, even cooking and also switching from stovetop to oven." (01:56)

• Andy on Affordable Dutch Ovens:
  "Lodge has a fabulous collection of cast irons and particularly their Dutch oven is on the more affordable side. It does great for everything from searing chicken thighs." (03:22)

• Andy on Dry Roasting Vegetables:
  "so basically dry roasting is the idea of roasting something without any oil, without any water... with the Dutch oven specifically, I love to dry pot roast beets." (05:48)

• Edith’s Comfort Memory:
  "I would open the door to my home and my mother would be on the stove, in a cast iron pot, a homemade from scratch pea soup." (08:11)

• Andy on Instant Pots vs Dutch Ovens:
  "the Dutch oven is definitely the way to go in terms of dry roasting vegetables. What was the second part of that question?... But I think the Dutch oven is definitely the way to go in terms of dry roasting vegetables." (15:19-16:42)

• Andy on Homemade Broth:
  "there is something about a homemade broth that's really special." (12:40)

Additional Resources

Listeners interested in recreating the discussed recipes can visit FoodAndWine.com and search for Dutch oven recipes. The February issue of Food and Wine is also recommended for a collection of new and inspiring Dutch oven dishes.

This episode of All Of It masterfully blends practical cooking advice with heartfelt stories, underscoring the role of food in providing comfort and community during the winter months. Through Andy Gosnell’s expertise and listener contributions, the episode offers a rich tapestry of winter cooking strategies, making it an invaluable resource for anyone looking to embrace the season’s culinary opportunities.