Podcast Summary: Designing the Fashion For The Film 'Wicked'

Podcast: All Of It (WNYC)
Host: Alison Stewart
Guest: Paul Tazewell (Oscar & Tony-winning Costume Designer)
Date: August 21, 2025

Episode Overview

This episode of All Of It dives into the art and intent behind the costumes in the upcoming Wicked film adaptation. Host Alison Stewart revisits an earlier in-depth interview with Paul Tazewell, the acclaimed costume designer behind this highly anticipated movie. They explore the creative process, inspirations, and cultural considerations that shaped the looks of Wicked's iconic characters, particularly Elphaba and Glinda.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Paul Tazewell’s Journey to Costume Design

• Early Inspiration
  • Paul describes discovering costume design as a child, learning to sew at age nine, initially making dashikis (03:22).
  • "[My mother] was the one that pointed me in the direction of, of creating in many different ways... making puppets, that was earlier in my life. And then starting to make shirts for myself." – Paul Tazewell (03:22)
• Education and Career Path
  • Began designing in high school with a production of The Wiz.
  • Studied costume design in college, learning technical skills like draping and tailoring (04:03).
  • Worked at Arena Stage, then designed his first Broadway show for George C. Wolfe (Bring in 'da Noise, Bring in 'da Funk).
  • Taught at Carnegie Mellon before focusing on freelance design.

2. The Art of Listening and Collaboration

• Paul credits his success to attentive listening, both to directors and actors, to deeply understand their vision and needs (05:44).
• He emphasizes the importance of creating costumes that support character development and storytelling.
• "I realized the power of listening, listening closely because I spend a lot of time doing that first with directors that I'm collaborating with so that I can better understand what their point of view is… and then it is listening to actors when I'm in a fitting..." – Paul Tazewell (05:44)

3. Stage vs. Screen: Designing for Different Mediums

• Theater
  • Design is about creating a cohesive picture visible from a single, front-on perspective (10:36).
  • Casts are smaller, focus is on ensemble coherence.
• Film
  • Requires attention to intimate details for close-up shots of principals, while still orchestrating vast background ensembles.
  • “With film, you zone in on one character, one moment, very close... but because I’ve come from the world of theater, I’m also thinking about what is the environment that this character is going to be in?” – Paul Tazewell (10:36)

4. Designing the World of Oz

• Tazewell discusses the thrill and challenge of designing for a fictional world with limitless possibilities (15:15).
  • He balanced the expectations of longtime Wicked fans and newcomers.
  • Inspirations included the original 1939 Wizard of Oz film, Wicked the Broadway show, and Gregory Maguire's novel.
  • Collaborated closely with production designer Nathan Crowley and director Jon M. Chu.
• “My intention is to… create a new experience for the audience because there would be those people who had seen the Broadway musical and there would also be people who had never experienced the Broadway musical and they were going to see this story in a brand new way.” – Paul Tazewell (15:15)

5. Representation and Interpreting Character

• The casting of Cynthia Erivo (Elphaba) and Ariana Grande (Glinda) directly influenced costume choices.
• Tazewell drew on his identity and experiences to interpret Elphaba, especially considering the significance of a person of color playing the iconic green witch (16:45).
• “To newly see Elphaba as a literal person of color being played by a person of color and she is then green in our fantasy world. It resonates in a much stronger way, I feel.” – Paul Tazewell (16:45)

6. Notable Costume Details

a. Elphaba’s Glasses (19:32)

• Design inspiration: Spiral shape, referencing organic natural forms like the golden spiral and fungi.
• Practical needs: Allowed the audience to see the actor’s eyes, included in multiple prototypes.
• “That pair of glasses was one that was reflective of the spiral. And that asymmetry was… reflective of what we were representing throughout the film.” – Paul Tazewell (19:43)

b. The Iconic Witch’s Hat (22:07)

• Tazewell was deliberate in capturing the hat’s cultural resonance as a symbol of ‘the wicked’ and the undesired.
• Texture inspired by natural forms (mushrooms, bark) and historical silhouettes, including an under-color iridescence.
• The hat’s narrative: A gag gift from Glinda’s grandmother, collapsible and eventually a source of power and identity for Elphaba.
• “When it’s offered up to Elphaba and Elphaba puts it on it, then it represents all, you know, her power. It’s a power source for her… and it becomes an integral part of her, her silhouette.” – Paul Tazewell (25:35)
• Visual allusion to the classic 1939 film’s silhouette.

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• “I might be partial because I’m also a designer of color. So, you know, I get the emotional path that she’s walking…” – Paul Tazewell (16:45)
• “The spiral is throughout… you see it represented in the clothing and some of the detail of design.” – Paul Tazewell (19:43)
• “It’s now in this… very, you know, kind of primary spot within the film and setting up the energy of what this film is going to be about.” – Paul Tazewell on the hat (22:24)
• “She’s not necessarily the Wicked Witch of the West, but she is reflective of that character.” – Paul Tazewell (26:47)

Important Timestamps

| Timestamp | Content | |-----------|---------------------------------------------------------------------| | 00:09 | Introduction, Paul’s accolades, and episode setup | | 02:35 | Paul Tazewell on discovering costume design as a child | | 05:44 | The importance of listening in costume design | | 10:36 | Differences between designing for stage and for screen | | 15:15 | Inspirations for Oz and translating the world for a movie audience | | 19:43 | The story and symbolism behind Elphaba’s glasses | | 22:07 | Designing Elphaba’s iconic witch’s hat and its place in the story | | 25:35 | The transformation of Elphaba’s hat into a symbol of personal power | | 26:47 | Concluding thoughts on Elphaba’s visual legacy |

Conclusion

This engaging conversation with Paul Tazewell highlights the careful thought, research, and intention behind every stitch of Wicked's costume design. Tazewell’s dedication to authenticity, representation, and narrative detail shines through, promising a visual experience that both honors and reinvents Oz for a new generation. Listeners gain a deep appreciation for the artistry of costume design and its vital role in cinematic storytelling.