Podcast Episode Summary: All Of It – "Dressing Ancient Romans in 'Gladiator II' (The Big Picture)"

Release Date: February 6, 2025

In this engaging episode of All Of It, hosted by Alison Stewart from WNYC, listeners are taken behind the scenes of the highly anticipated film "Gladiator II". The episode, part of the Big Picture series, delves into the intricate world of costume design, featuring an in-depth conversation with acclaimed costume designers Janti Yates and David Crossman. Both designers, nominated for an Academy Award for their work on the film, share their creative processes, challenges, and collaborative efforts in bringing ancient Rome to life on the big screen.

1. Introduction to the Guests and Their Achievements

Alison Stewart opens the episode by introducing Janti Yates and David Crossman, highlighting their impressive credentials and contributions to the original "Gladiator" film.

• Alison Stewart [00:39]: "Costume designer Janti Yates won an Academy Award in 2001 for her work on Gladiator. Now she's nominated again for Gladiator 2 alongside fellow costume designer David Crossman."

The hosts emphasize the pivotal roles Janti and David played in differentiating civilian and military costumes, respectively, showcasing their specialized expertise.

2. The Role of a Costume Designer

The discussion begins with a light-hearted exchange about the responsibilities of a costume designer on a movie set.

• Janti Yates [01:48]: "Well, without us sleeping naked."

• David Crossman [02:00]: "It's to try and fulfill the director's wishes and help them achieve the look of the film, you know, what they're after. Plus the naked part."

This humorous start segues into a more serious exploration of their collaborative dynamics and past experiences working with director Ridley Scott.

3. Collaboration Between Janti Yates and David Crossman

Alison probes into how their previous work together on "Napoleon" informed their approach to "Gladiator 2".

• David Crossman [02:29]: "It was more of a logistical kind of race against time, really, to get lots of armor ready... All of that alongside what you have to do for the actors."

Janti reflects on reconnecting with the world of "Gladiator" after two decades.

• Janti Yates [03:25]: "I dove back into research because it was 24 years ago and the brain's not as it was... We went back to the original feel of her look."

Their long-standing professional relationship and mutual respect lay the foundation for their successful collaboration on the sequel.

4. Research and Inspiration for Costume Design

A significant portion of the conversation centers around the extensive research undertaken to ensure historical accuracy and artistic flair.

• Janti Yates [08:05]: "We drew a huge amount of inspiration from Alma Tadema... the tunics were wrapped around with a silk ribbon... doubled up and draped around the bosom, waist, and hip."

• David Crossman [09:38]: "We looked at contemporary things to see where you can either take license or, you know, what's real, what's not... a lot of plaster casts of original sculptures."

Their dedication to authentic design is evident in their meticulous attention to details inspired by classical art and historical artifacts.

5. Practical Considerations: Flexibility and Comfort

Ensuring that costumes are both aesthetically pleasing and functional for action sequences is crucial.

• David Crossman [10:48]: "We made a lot of them in leather, so it's way more comfortable to wear... The materials are way better now. More materials that are softer. They're more flexy and they look the same."

The use of modern materials like polyurethane allows for greater flexibility without compromising the visual integrity of the armor, even in extreme conditions like the heat of Malta and Morocco.

6. Specific Character Costumes

a. Denzel Washington's Character

The conversation delves into the ornate designs and significant jewelry adorning Denzel Washington's character, reflecting both historical influences and actor preferences.

• Janti Yates [12:26]: "We dressed Denzel down... he wanted a lot more jewelry than I'd ever anticipated. He's always putting them on in his trailer without any interference."

b. Paul Mescal's Character and His Wife

Designing costumes for Paul Mescal's character involves a transition from primitive armor to the refined gladiator aesthetic seen in the first film.

• David Crossman [14:26]: "Paul was a kind of primitive look... into his gladiator look which is a nod to the first film."

For his wife, the costumes balance functionality with elite status, incorporating elements like a half breastplate and basic helmet, illustrating her role as a sharpshooter and archer.

c. Twin Emperors

The distinctive appearance of the twin emperors, characterized by white faces and bright orange hair, draws inspiration from Johnny Rotten, adding a formidable and slightly intimidating presence.

• Janti Yates [16:28]: "It's all Ridley and it was all from Johnny Rotten... they would be quite intimidating in their actual appearance."

7. Managing Large-Scale Costuming for Extras

Handling costumes for hundreds of extras poses logistical challenges, which Janti and David address through systematic processes.

• David Crossman [20:48]: "We had around 500... pre-fitting all these extras... you try and get it as systemized as you can because of time."

This streamlined approach ensures efficiency and consistency, minimizing production delays and maintaining costume integrity.

8. Reflections and Highlights

As the episode concludes, both designers share what they are most proud of in their work on "Gladiator 2".

• Janti Yates [22:03]: "I love every single vision... the twins looked magnificent."

• David Crossman [22:35]: "I like the boats fighting... I'm glad I did it. It's one of those nice jobs where you're happy you were involved."

Their passion and satisfaction are palpable, underscoring the successful marriage of creativity and craftsmanship in the film's costume design.

Notable Quotes

• Janti Yates [07:02]: "Everything. I adore working with Dave and for the rest of my life. He takes all my military designs and enhances them so brilliantly that it's unrecognizable."

• David Crossman [17:55]: "We kind of overdid it on the snakes... it's meant to invoke fear in his enemies."

• Janti Yates [19:21]: "It was too plain, in actual fact. We needed those drapes... everyone was happy then."

Conclusion

This episode of All Of It offers a fascinating glimpse into the world of costume design for "Gladiator II", highlighting the expertise and collaborative synergy between Janti Yates and David Crossman. Their commitment to historical accuracy, artistic expression, and practical functionality not only brings the characters of ancient Rome to life but also pays homage to the legacy of the original "Gladiator" film. Listeners gain an appreciation for the meticulous effort behind the scenes, ensuring that every thread and accessory contributes to the rich tapestry of the cinematic experience.