All Of It – “French Cooking for Your Paris Olympics Watch Party”

Host: Koosha Navadar (in for Alison Stewart)
Guest: Melissa Clark (New York Times food writer)
Date: July 25, 2024

Overview:

With the Paris Olympics about to kick off, this lively episode brings listeners into the world of French cuisine—perfect for anyone looking to add a culinary twist to their Olympics watch party. Koosha Navadar is joined by celebrated food writer Melissa Clark, who shares practical and enticing recipes, hosting strategies, and personal food insights, focusing on making French cooking accessible, fun, and festive—whether you’re a Francophile or just looking for new snacks.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

The Vibe in Paris: Olympic Excitement and Everyday Life

• Melissa describes speaking with her Parisian friends and notes the surprising scene: it’s “chaotic, but not as crowded as they thought it would be” (03:48).
• Local Parisians are either escaping the city or staying to witness this once-in-a-lifetime event.
• While logistical challenges abound (street closures, varying restaurant hours), the city’s spirit remains “thrilling” (04:34).

What Should Home Chefs Cook for a Paris Olympics Party?

• Olympic Athlete Menus: French athlete dining halls are reportedly emphasizing plant-forward, vegan, and vegetarian meals—about 60% are plant-based (05:52).
• For at-home viewing, Melissa recommends dishes that are:
  • Easy to Eat
  • Made in Advance
  • Suitable for Snacking
• Melissa Clark:

  “You need food that is easy to eat, easy to reach for, easy to snack on. Everything needs to be made in advance—because...you don't want to get up and miss something and try to, like, you know, find a dish on the stove.” (06:37)

The Art of the French Apéro

• Definition: Apéro is the French ritual of drinks and nibbles before dinner—perfect for parties.
• Go-to Apéro Foods:
  • Olives, nuts, cheese, baguette slices
  • Gougères (French cheese puffs)
  • Salmon rillettes
  • Crudités with sea salt and spices
  • Cornichons (tiny French pickles)
• Melissa Clark:

  “Setting up an apero is a perfect way to take in the Olympics.” (07:25)

Dish Deep Dives: Recipes & Techniques

1. Gougères – French Cheese Puffs

• Easy to make, endlessly customizable with your favorite cheese—Gruyere is classic, but Parmesan and even cheddar are welcome.
  Koosha confesses a love for Parmesan, prompting Melissa's line:

  “The Olympics is an international event—why not bring it in?” (08:55)

• Serve warm or at room temperature alongside wine.

2. Salmon Rillettes

• Inspired by Dorie Greenspan: lighter than traditional pork rillettes, made with fresh and smoked salmon, honey mustard, herbs, and fat (like olive oil, butter, or mayo).
• Mellisa recommends prepping it days in advance, serving with cornichons, olives, or plain veggies (crudités).
• Use international spice blends over veggies for extra flair (garam masala, black lime, ground cumin).

  “No dip necessary...they're so crunchy and fresh and spicy and salty.” (10:40)

3. Quiche Lorraine

• The quintessential French party dish: a rich, custardy pie with eggs, heavy cream, Gruyère, and bacon.
• Melissa on the emotional power of quiche:

  “A perfectly made quiche is an alchemy of things...something that you will remember for the rest of your life, and it will haunt you.” (13:53)

• Practical tips:
  • Store-bought crust is totally acceptable.
  • A “false-bottomed fluted tart pan” creates the most elegant presentation, but any pie pan works.
  • Blind-bake the crust, using baking beans or even (washed) pennies to keep it flat.

  “If you’re not comfortable making pie dough...buy a ready-made pie crust. None of your guests will know, and I will not tell on you.” (15:30)

4. Ratatouille

• Southern French vegetable medley: eggplant, tomatoes, zucchini, peppers, onions.
• Classic: Cook each vegetable separately for the best texture and combine at the end, with plenty of olive oil and herbs.

  “It is the essence of summertime...such a delicious main dish, side dish, breakfast, lunch, dinner.” (18:08)

• Melissa suggests eating it hot or cold, as a side, main, or even as a quiche filling.

5. Croque Monsieur & Croque Madame

• French bistro classics—hot ham and cheese sandwiches topped with béchamel sauce.
• Croque Madame: add a fried egg on top.

  “This is not a pick up and eat with your hand sandwich.” (20:11)

• Melissa suggests making a casserole-style version for feeding crowds:

  “It’s basically like a giant casserole of sandwiches...you can assemble the entire thing the day before...and pop it in the oven right before.” (21:32)

6. Pissaladière

• A southern French tart/pizza with caramelized onions, black olives, anchovies atop puff pastry or pizza dough.
• Melissa:

  “Pissaladière...it's one of my favorite things to eat in the entire world.” (22:34)

• Prefers pre-made puff pastry for ease; cut into small squares for party snacks.

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On Feeling Left Out of Paris Magic

  “If you want to watch the games and...can't get to the City of Lights yourself, we wanted to help you bring a little Paris to your own Olympic watch party with some French cooking.” – Koosha Navadar (01:29)

• On Olympic Food Evolution

  “Vegan and vegetarian restaurants, very vegetable-forward, plant-based cuisine is a big part...actually 60% of what they're serving.” – Melissa Clark (05:52)

• On Apéro as Party Strategy

  “Setting up an apero is a perfect way to take in the Olympics.” – Melissa Clark (07:25)

• On the Magic of Quiche Lorraine

  “You will remember for the rest of your life, and it will haunt you.” – Melissa Clark (13:53)

Audience Interaction

• Callers & Texts:
  • Howard recommends the croque monsieur and croque madame as favorite bistro classics (19:31). Melissa builds on this to explain these dishes, adapting them to party-sized servings.
  • Listeners text in about favorite dishes and practical tips (e.g., pre-cooking pie crusts, requests for ratatouille, shoutouts for Pissaladière).

Useful Timestamps

• Olympic Paris atmosphere: 03:48
• Party-snack philosophy: 06:37
• French apéro foods explained: 07:25–09:08
• Salmon rillettes & creative crudites tips: 09:08–11:03
• How to make quiche Lorraine, shortcut tricks: 13:53–15:45
• Blind baking with pennies: 16:05
• Ratatouille essentials: 18:08
• Croque monsieur/croque madame for crowds: 20:11–21:32
• Pissaladière: 22:34

Summary Table: French Dishes Featured

| Dish | Description | Party-Friendly? | Advance Prep? | |---------------------|------------------------------------------------|-----------------|------------------| | Gougères | Cheese puffs | Yes | Yes | | Salmon Rillettes | Creamy salmon spread | Yes | Yes | | Quiche Lorraine | Rich, eggy tart w/ bacon & Gruyère | Yes | Yes | | Ratatouille | Summer veggie medley | Yes | Yes | | Croque Monsieur/Madame | Hot ham & cheese sandwich, béchamel, egg | Yes (casserole) | Yes (assemble pre-bake) | | Pissaladière | Flat tart w/ onions, olives, anchovies | Yes | Yes |

Closing Thoughts

Melissa Clark’s approach emphasizes accessibility, joy, and flexibility in French cooking—reassuring home cooks that shortcuts are allowed and that making French food for a festive occasion should be fun and relaxed. The episode is full of practical tips, encouragement, and a sense of celebration, both of food and the Olympics.