All Of It (WNYC)
Episode: How to Drink (and Eat!) Like a Korean
Air date: September 11, 2025
Host: David Firsch (filling in for Alison Stewart)
Guest: Irene Yu, chef and co-owner of Orion Bar, author of “Soju: How to Drink and Eat Like a Korean”
Overview
This engaging episode explores the central role of drinking and food in Korean culture, as illuminated by Irene Yu's new cookbook, “Soju: How to Drink and Eat Like a Korean.” The conversation covers the rituals and etiquette of Korean drinking, the rich subculture of drinking foods (anju), the essence and history of soju, and the importance of sharing and connection at the table. Irene shares her perspective as a chef, entrepreneur, and first-generation Korean American, weaving in stories of family, innovation, and community.
Key Discussion Points & Insights
1. The Role of Drinking in Korean Culture
- Formality & Rituals: Drinking in Korea is deeply ritualized, involving respect for elders and strict etiquette, such as never pouring your own drink and always offering to others first.
“In Korean society, you have to, like, bow to your elders...you pour shots for each other. You never pour your own drink. But then as you keep drinking, that sort of loosens up.” — Irene Yu [00:59]
- Outlet for Joy: These rituals begin formally but relax as the night goes on, providing both structure and a release for social connection.
- Hierarchy Awareness: Korean drinking culture includes a subtle navigation of social hierarchy, commonly discussed and even negotiated by directly asking about age, which contrasts with American norms.
“In American culture, that’s really, like, frowned upon. But in Korean culture, it’s very much, like, up front...we’re establishing what the boundaries are.” — Irene Yu [02:49]
2. Anju: The Culture of Drinking Food
- Food Pairing is Essential: Korean drinking is always accompanied by food, often spicy, satisfying, and meant to complement alcohol like soju or makgeolli.
“The most important thing...is you always have to have food. Drinking food is its own subculture, and that’s called anju.” — Irene Yu [02:00]
- Favorite Anju Dishes: Irene highlights dishes such as spicy clam soup, truffle instant ramen, kimchi carbonara, and salty sweet seaweed popcorn.
- Inclusivity: Enjoying anju doesn’t require drinking—these foods are about comfort and community.
3. Korean Drinking vs. American Drinking
- Alcohol Content & Pace: Korean soju is less potent (12-16% ABV, like wine) but drunk in larger quantities, balanced by food and conversation, which makes for a less aggressive experience than typical Western “shots.”
“Soju is somewhere between usually 12 and 16% alcohol, which is about that of a bottle of wine...it’s a lot of shots, but less aggressive than a whiskey shot or a vodka shot.” — Irene Yu [03:38]
4. The Cookbook: “Soju: How to Drink and Eat Like a Korean”
- Purpose: To lay out the foundations of Korean drinking rituals, delicious drinking food recipes, classic drink combos (like somaek—soju and beer), and drinking games, ending with hangover cures.
“I wanted to establish the foundation of Korean drinking...There’s a whole illustrated section about drinking games, and then it wraps up very nicely with a chapter about hangovers.” — Irene Yu [04:55]
- Inclusivity in Recipes: The book is designed for everyone, not only for those who drink alcohol:
“Half of the recipes...are food. And these are all foods that you can enjoy, not just when you’re drinking, but anytime when you want to feel comforted, when you want to have a good time.” — Irene Yu [07:13]
5. Hangover Cures
- Traditional Broth (Haejang Guk): A spicy, restorative soup is the go-to hangover remedy in Korea, included in her cookbook.
“For me, it’s just a bowl of really hot spicy broth; that’s the curative go-to hangover cure in Korea. It’s called haejang guk.” — Irene Yu [05:49]
6. Signature Dishes
- Kimchi Carbonara: A personal twist using pantry items, combining spiciness and comfort, available both at her bar and in the cookbook.
“It’s a little bit spicy, it’s super craveable...the perfect thing to whip up and satisfy your hunger.” — Irene Yu [06:23]
- Cheesy Spicy Tteokbokki: Another bar favorite, spicy rice cakes topped with cheese and lemon juice—bruléed for extra flavor.
“Spicy rice cakes that are topped with cheese and that’s bruleed and then finished with a little bit of lemon juice.” — Irene Yu [12:46]
- Salty Sweet Seaweed Popcorn: Fuses classic bar snack with Korean flavor; pairs especially well with soju and beer.
“Folding in this, like, roasted seaweed...The salty sort of brininess of it pairs really well with things like beer and soju.” — Irene Yu [17:29]
7. Orion Bar & The Pop-up Project
- Origins: Irene missed her mom’s home cooking after moving away from LA, inspiring her to cook for herself and eventually launch the “You Eating” pop-up series and Orion Bar in Bushwick.
“She was making our family three home cooked meals a day...When I moved away I really missed that sort of comfort and I wanted to sort of learn how to make it for myself, share that with others.” — Irene Yu [08:27]
- Vision: Create a Korean-American drinking and eating space in Brooklyn, emphasizing sharing, inclusivity, and connection outside Manhattan’s Koreatown.
8. The Social Element & “Pouring for Others”
- Breaking Personal Barriers: Pouring drinks for each other is both a literal and figurative way of breaking down personal boundaries, encouraging camaraderie and togetherness.
“The very breaking of that space and doing that pouring for one another probably goes a long way to making it a much more social occasion.” — David Firsch [11:27] “I think it’s very much like an invite into each other’s lives almost.” — Irene Yu [11:35]
9. Soju: History, Flavor, and Customs
- Neutral Spirit: Soju is described as a neutral, easy-to-mix spirit, ideal with food and as a base for infusions and cocktails.
“It doesn’t taste like much, but it tastes a little bit alcoholic...little bit like a watered down vodka for more American drinkers.” — Irene Yu [13:14]
- Homemade Flavored Soju: While store-bought flavored sojus exist, Irene prefers infusing her own at home for superior flavor.
“Soju is such a good base for infusing and layering flavors. So you can make your own fruit soju at home, which is even better than the ones you can find bottled.” — Irene Yu [14:03]
- Historical Evolution: The standard “green bottle” soju is a post-war, industrial product, standardized during Japanese occupation and the Korean War, widely popular for its uniformity and mass availability.
“Soju really changed...it was a very traditionally distilled liquor...but during the Japanese occupation and the Korean War, the process of making soju got really industrialized and very monopolized…” — Irene Yu [14:47]
10. K-Drama & Pop Culture Influence
- Outdoor Pop-up Tents: Popularized by K-dramas, these are called “bojang macha” — late night food tents with folding tables and sizzling hot foods, which have helped internationalize the communal, cozy vibe of Korean drinking culture.
“Those like pop up tents...whether you’re having a drink by yourself or...not at all and you’re just there to like get a good meal. I feel like it’s just something that really nourishes you.” — Irene Yu [10:01]
11. Drinking Games & Soju Tornado
- Soju Tornado: A party trick from older days, swirling the soju bottle to create a vortex before opening (originally to deal with cork particles, now just for fun).
“It’s very silly, but again, it’s like a big icebreaker.” — Irene Yu [15:43] “The key is the stop so you can spin it around and then you stop it, and then that creates that vortex.” — Irene Yu [16:39]
Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments
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On the meaning of sharing food and drink:
“It’s about sharing and putting down sort of the walls and the differences or the hardships of that day and sharing a glass or sharing a bowl. So it’s so much about sharing.” — Irene Yu [10:36]
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On making food for comfort & connection:
“It’s really my goal, and I feel like just a very Korean goal, to take care of each other, feed each other and make sure you’re having a good time.” — Irene Yu [09:13]
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On bringing Korean drinking culture to Brooklyn:
“I wanted to...create sort of a Korean and American drinking experience. Have it be somewhere where you could crack open a bottle of soju...a little bit of something for everyone, but very much grounded again in that like Korean sense of sharing and coming together.” — Irene Yu [12:22]
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On mastering the soju “tornado”:
“To be fair, it did take me a while. I feel like I have very weak wrists...the key is the stop so you can spin it around and then you stop it, and then that creates that vortex.” — Irene Yu [16:32]
Timestamps for Important Segments
- [00:59] – Rituals and hierarchy in Korean drinking
- [02:00] – The subculture of drinking food (“anju”)
- [04:55] – Purpose and content of Irene's cookbook
- [05:49] – Hangover cures (Haejang Guk)
- [06:23] – Kimchi carbonara & favorite dishes
- [08:27] – Irene's family and the origins of “You Eating” pop-up
- [10:01] – K-dramas and pop-up tent dining (“bojang macha”)
- [11:18] – Pouring drinks and social connection
- [13:14] – Soju’s flavor profile and why it’s popular
- [14:47] – Soju’s history and industrialization
- [15:43] – Soju tornado: tradition and modern-day fun
- [17:29] – Salty sweet seaweed popcorn: a Korean bar snack
Conclusion
This episode provides an accessible yet nuanced look at how Korean culture intertwines food and drink with ritual, community, and care. Irene Yu’s passion jumps off the air as she shares anecdotes and actionable tips, making Korean drinking culture approachable for everyone—whether you’re a seasoned soju drinker or just a lover of good food and company.
Book plug: "Soju: How to Drink and Eat Like a Korean" is available now, offering recipes, history, party games, and more.
Not just about drinking: At heart, it's about sharing, respect, and bringing people together—hallmarks of Korean hospitality and culture.