How to Drink (and Eat!) Like a Korean

Summary

All Of It (WNYC)

Episode: How to Drink (and Eat!) Like a Korean

Air date: September 11, 2025
Host: David Firsch (filling in for Alison Stewart)
Guest: Irene Yu, chef and co-owner of Orion Bar, author of “Soju: How to Drink and Eat Like a Korean”

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Overview

This engaging episode explores the central role of drinking and food in Korean culture, as illuminated by Irene Yu's new cookbook, “Soju: How to Drink and Eat Like a Korean.” The conversation covers the rituals and etiquette of Korean drinking, the rich subculture of drinking foods (anju), the essence and history of soju, and the importance of sharing and connection at the table. Irene shares her perspective as a chef, entrepreneur, and first-generation Korean American, weaving in stories of family, innovation, and community.

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Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. The Role of Drinking in Korean Culture

• Formality & Rituals: Drinking in Korea is deeply ritualized, involving respect for elders and strict etiquette, such as never pouring your own drink and always offering to others first.

  “In Korean society, you have to, like, bow to your elders...you pour shots for each other. You never pour your own drink. But then as you keep drinking, that sort of loosens up.” — Irene Yu [00:59]

• Outlet for Joy: These rituals begin formally but relax as the night goes on, providing both structure and a release for social connection.
• Hierarchy Awareness: Korean drinking culture includes a subtle navigation of social hierarchy, commonly discussed and even negotiated by directly asking about age, which contrasts with American norms.

  “In American culture, that’s really, like, frowned upon. But in Korean culture, it’s very much, like, up front...we’re establishing what the boundaries are.” — Irene Yu [02:49]

2. Anju: The Culture of Drinking Food

• Food Pairing is Essential: Korean drinking is always accompanied by food, often spicy, satisfying, and meant to complement alcohol like soju or makgeolli.

  “The most important thing...is you always have to have food. Drinking food is its own subculture, and that’s called anju.” — Irene Yu [02:00]

• Favorite Anju Dishes: Irene highlights dishes such as spicy clam soup, truffle instant ramen, kimchi carbonara, and salty sweet seaweed popcorn.
• Inclusivity: Enjoying anju doesn’t require drinking—these foods are about comfort and community.

3. Korean Drinking vs. American Drinking

• Alcohol Content & Pace: Korean soju is less potent (12-16% ABV, like wine) but drunk in larger quantities, balanced by food and conversation, which makes for a less aggressive experience than typical Western “shots.”

  “Soju is somewhere between usually 12 and 16% alcohol, which is about that of a bottle of wine...it’s a lot of shots, but less aggressive than a whiskey shot or a vodka shot.” — Irene Yu [03:38]

4. The Cookbook: “Soju: How to Drink and Eat Like a Korean”

• Purpose: To lay out the foundations of Korean drinking rituals, delicious drinking food recipes, classic drink combos (like somaek—soju and beer), and drinking games, ending with hangover cures.

  “I wanted to establish the foundation of Korean drinking...There’s a whole illustrated section about drinking games, and then it wraps up very nicely with a chapter about hangovers.” — Irene Yu [04:55]

• Inclusivity in Recipes: The book is designed for everyone, not only for those who drink alcohol:

  “Half of the recipes...are food. And these are all foods that you can enjoy, not just when you’re drinking, but anytime when you want to feel comforted, when you want to have a good time.” — Irene Yu [07:13]

5. Hangover Cures

• Traditional Broth (Haejang Guk): A spicy, restorative soup is the go-to hangover remedy in Korea, included in her cookbook.

  “For me, it’s just a bowl of really hot spicy broth; that’s the curative go-to hangover cure in Korea. It’s called haejang guk.” — Irene Yu [05:49]

6. Signature Dishes

• Kimchi Carbonara: A personal twist using pantry items, combining spiciness and comfort, available both at her bar and in the cookbook.

  “It’s a little bit spicy, it’s super craveable...the perfect thing to whip up and satisfy your hunger.” — Irene Yu [06:23]

• Cheesy Spicy Tteokbokki: Another bar favorite, spicy rice cakes topped with cheese and lemon juice—bruléed for extra flavor.

  “Spicy rice cakes that are topped with cheese and that’s bruleed and then finished with a little bit of lemon juice.” — Irene Yu [12:46]

• Salty Sweet Seaweed Popcorn: Fuses classic bar snack with Korean flavor; pairs especially well with soju and beer.

  “Folding in this, like, roasted seaweed...The salty sort of brininess of it pairs really well with things like beer and soju.” — Irene Yu [17:29]

7. Orion Bar & The Pop-up Project

• Origins: Irene missed her mom’s home cooking after moving away from LA, inspiring her to cook for herself and eventually launch the “You Eating” pop-up series and Orion Bar in Bushwick.

  “She was making our family three home cooked meals a day...When I moved away I really missed that sort of comfort and I wanted to sort of learn how to make it for myself, share that with others.” — Irene Yu [08:27]

• Vision: Create a Korean-American drinking and eating space in Brooklyn, emphasizing sharing, inclusivity, and connection outside Manhattan’s Koreatown.

8. The Social Element & “Pouring for Others”

• Breaking Personal Barriers: Pouring drinks for each other is both a literal and figurative way of breaking down personal boundaries, encouraging camaraderie and togetherness.

  “The very breaking of that space and doing that pouring for one another probably goes a long way to making it a much more social occasion.” — David Firsch [11:27] “I think it’s very much like an invite into each other’s lives almost.” — Irene Yu [11:35]

9. Soju: History, Flavor, and Customs

• Neutral Spirit: Soju is described as a neutral, easy-to-mix spirit, ideal with food and as a base for infusions and cocktails.

  “It doesn’t taste like much, but it tastes a little bit alcoholic...little bit like a watered down vodka for more American drinkers.” — Irene Yu [13:14]

• Homemade Flavored Soju: While store-bought flavored sojus exist, Irene prefers infusing her own at home for superior flavor.

  “Soju is such a good base for infusing and layering flavors. So you can make your own fruit soju at home, which is even better than the ones you can find bottled.” — Irene Yu [14:03]

• Historical Evolution: The standard “green bottle” soju is a post-war, industrial product, standardized during Japanese occupation and the Korean War, widely popular for its uniformity and mass availability.

  “Soju really changed...it was a very traditionally distilled liquor...but during the Japanese occupation and the Korean War, the process of making soju got really industrialized and very monopolized…” — Irene Yu [14:47]

10. K-Drama & Pop Culture Influence

• Outdoor Pop-up Tents: Popularized by K-dramas, these are called “bojang macha” — late night food tents with folding tables and sizzling hot foods, which have helped internationalize the communal, cozy vibe of Korean drinking culture.

  “Those like pop up tents...whether you’re having a drink by yourself or...not at all and you’re just there to like get a good meal. I feel like it’s just something that really nourishes you.” — Irene Yu [10:01]

11. Drinking Games & Soju Tornado

• Soju Tornado: A party trick from older days, swirling the soju bottle to create a vortex before opening (originally to deal with cork particles, now just for fun).

  “It’s very silly, but again, it’s like a big icebreaker.” — Irene Yu [15:43] “The key is the stop so you can spin it around and then you stop it, and then that creates that vortex.” — Irene Yu [16:39]

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Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On the meaning of sharing food and drink:

  “It’s about sharing and putting down sort of the walls and the differences or the hardships of that day and sharing a glass or sharing a bowl. So it’s so much about sharing.” — Irene Yu [10:36]

• On making food for comfort & connection:

  “It’s really my goal, and I feel like just a very Korean goal, to take care of each other, feed each other and make sure you’re having a good time.” — Irene Yu [09:13]

• On bringing Korean drinking culture to Brooklyn:

  “I wanted to...create sort of a Korean and American drinking experience. Have it be somewhere where you could crack open a bottle of soju...a little bit of something for everyone, but very much grounded again in that like Korean sense of sharing and coming together.” — Irene Yu [12:22]

• On mastering the soju “tornado”:

  “To be fair, it did take me a while. I feel like I have very weak wrists...the key is the stop so you can spin it around and then you stop it, and then that creates that vortex.” — Irene Yu [16:32]

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Timestamps for Important Segments

• [00:59] – Rituals and hierarchy in Korean drinking
• [02:00] – The subculture of drinking food (“anju”)
• [04:55] – Purpose and content of Irene's cookbook
• [05:49] – Hangover cures (Haejang Guk)
• [06:23] – Kimchi carbonara & favorite dishes
• [08:27] – Irene's family and the origins of “You Eating” pop-up
• [10:01] – K-dramas and pop-up tent dining (“bojang macha”)
• [11:18] – Pouring drinks and social connection
• [13:14] – Soju’s flavor profile and why it’s popular
• [14:47] – Soju’s history and industrialization
• [15:43] – Soju tornado: tradition and modern-day fun
• [17:29] – Salty sweet seaweed popcorn: a Korean bar snack

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Conclusion

This episode provides an accessible yet nuanced look at how Korean culture intertwines food and drink with ritual, community, and care. Irene Yu’s passion jumps off the air as she shares anecdotes and actionable tips, making Korean drinking culture approachable for everyone—whether you’re a seasoned soju drinker or just a lover of good food and company.
Book plug: "Soju: How to Drink and Eat Like a Korean" is available now, offering recipes, history, party games, and more.
Not just about drinking: At heart, it's about sharing, respect, and bringing people together—hallmarks of Korean hospitality and culture.

Transcript

[A]

This is all of it on wnyc. I'm David Firsch. Thanks for joining us today. It's no secret that soju is the drink of choice in Korea. And according to Irene Yu's new cookbook, drinking plays a big role in Korean culture. Irene Yu is the owner of Orion Bar in Bushwick, a Korean American spot that opened last year. She also founded the Pop up youp Eating, a monthly party series featuring Irene's takes on Korean dishes. And her new cookbook is Soju how to Drink and Eat Like a Korean. And Irene joins us now. Hello. Welcome to all of it.

[B]

Hello. Thank you so much for having me.

[A]

Irene, you. Before we go into your recipes, can you give us the big picture? What is the role of drinking in Korean culture?

[B]

I feel like it's such an important part of Korean culture because all the different, like, little rules and rituals are really sort of informative of Korean society at large. So, for example, in Korean society, you have to, like, bow to your elders. It's very formal to start. And drinking in the beginning, you pour shots for each other. You never pour your own drink. But then as you keep drinking, that sort of loosens up. So it's also a bit of an. An outlet for people to have a good time.

[A]

So it begins with some of these traditions, very strictly observed, and it may slip away during the evening.

[B]

Exactly. I think that's the goal.

[A]

Well, that's the goal. There's an entire food group dedicated to dishes that pair nicely with drinking. Right. And as you mentioned, there are these important traditions to be observed while enjoying soju, like respect for your elders. Can you explain some of these rituals, how they work? What are the important customs to know?

[B]

So the most important thing, in my opinion is you always have to have food. So drinking food is its own subculture, and that's called anju. So really, it's any food that you eat while you're drinking. But, you know, I think often it's like something spicy, something really comforting that pairs really well with sort of that bracing alcoholic bite of soju or like the creaminess of Korean makgeolli. And then from there, like, you pouring for each other is such an important ritual. There's a little bit of like a. In Korean, it's called like, nunchi. You have to sort of feel out the hierarchy of the people around you. So either you're like, oh, like, if you're older than me or maybe a little bit more senior than me. So it's a little bit awkward.

[A]

There's not like a card that goes out at the beginning with where everyone puts their age on it or something. You have to feel it out.

[B]

You joke, but you kind of there is really, we actually ask each other our ages. So I feel like in American culture, that's really like frowned upon. But in Korean culture, it's very much like up front, you know, if it's unclear, then we're just asking and then we're finding out being like, oh, we're establishing what the boundaries are.

[A]

How much respect for the elders is there when it's like a month difference?

[B]

Oh, some people really make a big deal about that.

[A]

Really?

[B]

Like, oh, I'm your brother, my older sister, even though I was because I was born one week before you.

[A]

Fascinating. Well, just by reading this book, let me say you get the sense that Koreans are drinking a lot. How would you respond to that? How would you compare drinking culture there to say in America? And you're talking about doing shots, but shots here, it's a different percentage of alcohol, right?

[B]

Exactly. It's a lot quantity wise, but it's a lot lower in alcohol. Soju is somewhere between usually 12 and 16% alcohol, which is about that of a bottle of wine. So if you're just drinking wine by the shot, it's what you're drinking a lot of shots. And then also again, you're eating and you're doing it over the course of a night. So I do think there's a lot of quantity, but a little bit more like less aggressive than a whiskey shot or a vodka shot.

[A]

Well, let's see if anyone wants to join the conversation here. Join the soju party listeners. Do you enjoy Korean drinking culture? Do you have a favorite place to get soju in the city? What dishes do you like to eat while drinking soju or Korean beer during a night out? Call or text us now. 212-433-9692. That is 212-433-9692. And we are talking about your new cookbook, Irene Yu. It is called Soju how to Drink and Eat Like a Korean. You're also going to be talking about it, by the way, tonight at Books Are Magic in Brooklyn Heights. That starts at 7pm but tell us about this cookbook. What did you want to do here?

[B]

So I wanted to establish the foundation of Korean drinking. So we talked about the rituals, but also talk about food. There's a lot of delicious drinking food recipes like a spicy clam soup or like a truffle instant ramen. And then also in addition to very Korean style drinks. So some of them are just really easy beer and shot combos, which is called Somic in Korea. I also wanted to feature cocktails, which were our takes of sort of Korean drinks at our bar, Orion, and then sort of have that evolve into party games. So there's a whole illustrated section about drinking games, and then it wraps up very nicely with a chapter about hangovers.

[A]

Okay. Do you have a hangover suggestion?

[B]

Yes. For me, it's just a bowl of really hot spicy broth that's like the curative go to hangover cure. In Korea. It's called haejangko, also its own category, because that's how dedicated Koreans are to drinking and then feeding their hangovers.

[A]

Do you have a recipe in the book?

[B]

Yes, it's called Haejang Guk.

[A]

Okay. And what, you know, these are the recipes that you wanted to focus on in the book. Right. Aside from the drinks, mostly the food that would be served with drinks. What's a favorite dish that you'd like to mention and maybe tell us a little bit how you would make it?

[B]

So one of my favorites is also a dish that I feature at my bar. It's the kimchi carbonara. And for me, I think it's perfect because it has. It's a little bit spicy, it's super craveable, and it's also something you can make with pantry items at home. So maybe you've come home after a late night and you're a little bit hungry. It's like the perfect thing to whip up and satisfy your hunger.

[A]

And kimchi carbonara, that sounds like a wonderful combination.

[B]

It absolutely is.

[A]

Is this your creation?

[B]

Yes.

[A]

Okay. That's a fun one to look for in the book. And I want to get back to, you know, the what if question here. What if someone is sober or a light drinker, not that interested in drinking? Are there some ways they can still enjoy the food and the culture that you write about in this book?

[B]

Absolutely. I feel like Korean drinking, it's about, like looking out for each other. So it's not about. It's about having a good time, not necessarily like pushing each other to like, drink if you're not feeling it. And also, like, half of the recipes in the book are food. And these are all foods that you can enjoy, not just when you're drinking, but anytime when you want to feel comforted, when you want to have a good time, when you want to have a party. That doesn't necessarily mean you always have to be like, breaking out the alcohol.

[A]

If you Wake up feeling a little slow. You can always try that hangover cure broth that you were talking about anyway.

[B]

Exactly. It's curative no matter what ails you.

[A]

Perfect way to put it. If you would like to join the conversation. 212-433-9692. That's 212-433-WNYC and the name of the book by the way, Soju how to Drink and Eat Like a Korean. We are speaking with Irene Yu Shef and co owner of Orion Bar in Bushwick and I wanted to hear more about your story. You're from la, correct? But have lived in New York for a while and you founded this pop up project you call you eating. Tell us about that. What inspired this and how does it work?

[B]

So originally it was something that I was inspired to do because I really missed my mom's home cooking. She is a Korean immigrant and she was making our family three home cooked meals a day for my entire childhood, which was such an impressive feat. And so when I moved away I really missed that sort of comfort and I wanted to sort of learn how to make it for myself, share that with others.

[C]

And I think that is sort of the thoroughfare for like what I continue to do today. So sort of you eating is now sort of like different recipes you can find online, like writing different content. And then I wanted to pour that into our bar, Orion Bar as well.

[B]

As this book, Soju Party.

[C]

It's really my go and I feel like just a very Korean goal to take care of each other, feed each other and make sure you're having a good time.

[A]

The bar, the pop up, the book, you have a lot of content you're responsible for. I started looking around yesterday. I started drowning in it immediately. You must be very busy.

[B]

Yeah, definitely.

[A]

I have to have you respond to this text. If you'd like to text us or call us. 212-433-9692. This text says I'm not a huge drinker, but I do watch a lot of K dramas. Every time they're drinking outdoors in what looks like a pop up food tent. It just looks so enjoyable. They'll be having cheap greasy food on folding tables late at night while it's cold out and I want to be there. Looks super fun.

[B]

Absolutely. That is totally the vibe. Like even if you're not drinking. And I feel like K dramas are something that really has spread and shown this love for, for that like romance of it's like raining, you're in. It's called a bojang macha, those like pop up tents and you know, whether you're having a drink by yourself or with someone else or not at all and you're just there to like get a good meal. I feel like it's just something that really nourishes you.

[A]

And is there. I mean, it seems like there's such a social element to the way all of this works.

[B]

Yeah, I feel like it's a way for people to really come together. And that's part of sort of going back to that like pouring thing too, is just making sure that the people around you are fed. It's not just about like, oh, I'm getting drunk or I'm trying to eat it. It's about sharing and putting down sort of the walls and the differences or the hardships of that day and sharing a glass or sharing a bowl. So it's so much about sharing.

[A]

There's something about that, pouring the drink for someone else that does break down a wall. Right. A wall of our personal space. Whereas in a lot of restaurants we'll have our little meal area in front of us that is never broken. Right?

[B]

Exactly. If you see a Korean table, it's always like teeming with all the banchan plates and bottles and glasses and like they're stacked on top of each other.

[A]

But the very breaking of that space and doing that pouring for one another probably goes a long way to making it a much more social occasion.

[B]

Exactly. I think it's very much like an invite into each other's lives almost.

[A]

Oh, I like that. Well, I also want to talk about your bar, Orion Bar. You co founded Orion Bar in Bushwick. It opened last year. What was your original vision for this bar?

[B]

So I feel like in New York, most of the places I was going to do Korean drinking, as one would say, was in Koreatown, Manhattan. And I wasn't really seeing a lot of those types of places outside of Manhattan or in the other outer boroughs. So I wanted to, with my husband Nick, who's also the partner, create sort of a Korean and American drinking experience. Have it be somewhere where you could crack open a bottle of soju, get.

[C]

Some really tasty snacks, but also just.

[B]

Get a beer and a shot or.

[C]

A really nice, like crafted cocktail. And so a little bit of something for everyone, but very much grounded again in that like Korean sense of sharing and coming together.

[A]

Is there a particular dish there that you're especially proud of?

[C]

Well, I can mention the kimchi carbonara again. So you don't want to make it at home yourself? You can come have it here.

[A]

Nice.

[C]

But I'm also really partial to the cheesy spicy tteokbokki. It's like spicy rice cakes that are topped with cheese and that's bruleed and then finished with a little bit of lemon juice. Also have a similar recipe for it in my book, but the one at the bar, it just hits different.

[A]

Okay. Well, soju is of course the most important alcoholic beverage in Korean culture. What is the flavor profile of soju? Why is it so loved?

[B]

It's a really neutral spirit, so it doesn't taste like much, but it tastes a little bit alcoholic. So I would say it probably tastes like kind of like a watered down vodka for more American drinkers. And that is since it's very easy to drink, it's also very easy to mix. So the neutralness of it mixes really well with beer. So that's very common. Kind of make like a Korean boiler maker, which is called a somic. Or you can mix it with different like flavorings or mixers and then also just pairs really well with food because it doesn't have any sort of contrasting flavor profiles.

[A]

Now some menus will have flavored sound soju, but you say stay away. Why is that?

[B]

I personally feel like I like the classic true flavors. But I mean, don't get me wrong, the flavored soju have, you know, a party or a party unto themselves. But in my book I also have recipes for making your own. Soju is such a good base for infusing and layering flavors. So you can make your own fruit soju at home, which is even better than the ones you can find bottled.

[A]

If you want to send us a text too or call us, you can call 212-433-9692. You dive into the history of soju in Korea in the book. What is interesting about the development of soju that you found out during your research process?

[C]

I found out that soju really changed in terms of what it was used to be. Originally it was a very traditionally distilled liquor with just rice and noodle, which is a Korean fermentation starter and water. But during the Japanese occupation and the Korean War, the process of making soju got really industrialized and, and also very monopolized, like very flattened in terms of the number of producers who are making it. So then that sort of funneled into this like green bottle soju that we see today. And it's really interesting. Can read the book more to find out like why a lot of soju is served in these Green bottles. Why? They all have, like, a very similar look and feel. Do they taste different?

[A]

And I have to ask about this because I've seen it, I think, you know, videos of it. But what exactly is a soju tornado?

[B]

So a soju tornado is it harkens back to a time when soju was served in bottles with cheap corks. So sometimes those cork particles would fall to the ground. So you would want to mix it up to get the cork particles to come out. And then you would sort of swirl it around to get it to come to the surface and then flick the top after you open it so the particles would come out. Obviously. Now they're served in sort of these, like, twist off screw caps. But the technique still is really popular today, a little bit as a marketing technique, but also because it's really fun to do. It's very silly, but again, it's like a big icebreaker.

[A]

I think along those lines, we have a text here saying, please ask the guest, how do you master the soju spin?

[B]

Okay. To be fair, it did take me a while. I feel like I have very weak wrists.

[A]

Can you explain what this is again?

[B]

Sure. So the soju tornado is you sort of spin or flick it so that the liquid inside forms a tornado. So you have to have a bit of a wrist snap. The key is the stop so you can spin it around and then you stop it, and then that creates that vortex.

[A]

Well, I'm quite certain if I tried it, it would result in a soju explosion. That would not be helpful at all. Does this happen?

[B]

My friend was telling me that he tried it. After I showed him how to do it, he accidentally flung the soju bottle clear across the restaurant.

[A]

Okay, don't do that.

[B]

Don't do that.

[A]

Have a good grip. Before you do anything, I wanted to ask you about a recipe from the book Soju how to Drink and Eat. Like a Korean one called Salty Sweet Seaweed Popcorn.

[B]

Yeah, that is a favorite of mine because popcorn in general is something that's often served as a kind of a free bar snack at a lot of Korean drinking establishments. But I love this idea of folding in this, like, roasted seaweed. The salty sort of brininess of it pairs really well with things like beer and soju.

[A]

And there's another anjou dish that you especially enjoy when drinking spicy clam soup. Is that right? Can you tell us about that one?

[B]

That is truly one of my favorites. Following a chasing, a shot of soju with a spoonful of this powder broth is just the perfect combo. For me, it's essentially clams that are cooked in water with a little bit of Korean chili pepper or it could be substituted with like a serrano. And that spiciness just infuses into sort of that seafood brininess and it's just really refreshing and satisfying.

[A]

And we've had a text or two about this that, you know, again, I mentioned this earlier, but not everybody wants to drink. Is there a way that you can, you know, let us know that everybody is welcome at the table? Right. Whether they are having the soju or just having the food.

[B]

Absolutely. We're just here for a good time. It doesn't have to be about you having to drink. That's why the food is there too, in order to have something that we can share with everybody. So I really want to emphasize how important the food is along with the drinking, which is why the subtitle is how to Drink and Eat Like a.

[A]

Korean and Eat well. You're going to be talking about the book tonight with New York Times food writer Eric Kim at Books Are Magic in Brooklyn Heights. That event is open to the public. It starts at 7pm we have been speaking with Irene Yu, chef and co owner of Orion Bar in Bushwick, creator of the Pop up series. You eating? I have to catch my breath to get through all this stuff. The new cookbook is Soju how to Drink and Eat Like a Korean. Irene Yu, thank you so much for joining us today.

[C]

Thank you so much for having me.

[D]

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