Podcast Summary: ALL OF IT – "How to Win Holiday Cookie Season"
Episode Details:
- Title: How to Win Holiday Cookie Season
- Host: Alison Stewart
- Guest: Eric Kim, New York Times Food and Cooking Columnist
- Release Date: December 19, 2024
- Duration: Approximately 16 minutes
Introduction to Holiday Cookie Season
Alison Stewart kicks off the episode by announcing a holiday cookie swap scheduled to take place in just over two hours. She shares her experience of making Dori Greenspan's chocolate thumbprint cookies, highlighting their origin from a delightful baking mistake described by Greenspan in her column. Alison also introduces Eric Kim, a New York Times food and cooking columnist known for his lemon turmeric crinkle cookies, who is here to discuss his specialty: bacon cookies for the holiday season.
The Democratic Nature of Cookies
Eric Kim emphasizes the unique, inclusive aspect of cookie baking:
"Cookies have a low barrier to entry, so everyone bakes the recipe. So they're kind of democratic in that way." [01:10]
He appreciates Cookie Week as a period when everyone can participate, reflecting the communal spirit of baking during the holidays.
Challenges in Cookie Baking
The conversation delves into the specific challenges that make cookie baking distinct from other baked goods. Eric highlights the importance of accurate measurements:
"Weigh your flour. If you don't have a scale, you can also spoon the flour into the measuring cup and level it off with the back of a butter knife." [03:46]
He explains that precise flour measurement is crucial not only for the correct texture but also to ensure the intended flavor isn't diluted.
Developing New Cookie Recipes
Eric shares insights into how he and his team develop new cookie recipes each year for Cookie Week:
"I think of us as like a boy band or a girl band when it comes to cookies. There are so many different cultures, different types, different flavor combinations that people like and don't like." [03:51]
He describes the diverse range of cookie styles his team creates, ensuring there's something for every palate, from chewy crinkled lemon turmeric cookies to iced peppermint shortbreads.
Listener Interaction and Baking Tips
Listener Call from Howard (Jersey City): Howard discusses his experience making Eric's Lemon Turmeric Crinkle cookies, noting challenges with dough stickiness and portion sizes:
"The dough is incredibly sticky and hard to roll it in your hands into balls... I weighed them at 1 ounce each. And when I do it next time I'm gonna probably do less than one ounce each." [05:14]
Eric Kim's Tips: In response, Eric advises using powdered sugar instead of flour to manage sticky dough and recommends investing in a good cookie scoop for uniformity:
"Get a small ice cream scoop. [...] It makes the cookie experience much more manageable." [07:40]
He further emphasizes that baking should be enjoyable:
"The cookie baking experience should be really fun for you." [07:55]
Storage and Freezing Cookies
A listener inquires about freezing cookies for later use. Eric confirms that many cookies, including those baked for the swap, can be frozen:
"A lot of cookies can be frozen post bake for sure... I have this year's Cookie Week cookies in my freezer because I thought it'd be fun to sort of save each year." [08:33]
He shares his personal habit of labeling and storing annual cookie batches, creating a nostalgic collection over the years.
Ingredient Substitutions: Olive Oil vs. Butter
Alison asks about Eric's choice to use olive oil instead of butter in his cookies. Eric explains the impact on flavor and texture:
"Olive oil adds a little pepperiness, fruitiness. [...] It amplifies that yellow flavor, that electric color." [09:31]
He discusses balancing moisture levels by combining olive oil with cream cheese to maintain the desired cookie texture.
Mixing Techniques: Hand Mixing vs. Electric Mixing
The discussion shifts to mixing methods. Eric prefers hand mixing for better control over aeration and to achieve a chewier texture:
"Mixing the wet ingredients by hand and aerating that fat in the liquid results in better emulsion." [10:46]
He advocates for accessible baking techniques, ensuring that specialized equipment isn't a necessity for making delicious cookies.
Listener Stories and Additional Tips
Kimberly from Baltimore: Kimberly shares her Hanukkah-themed cookies, creatively naming them after traditions like Mr. Maccabee and Hanukkah Harry. Eric appreciates the cultural touch, relating it to his love for rolled-out cookies and their nostalgic value:
"They're the type that you can make the dough in advance and... the dough has time to rest and really hydrate." [12:25]
Ann from Chatham, New Jersey: Ann recounts making uniform cookies by spinning them into mason jars using glass molds during a wedding, ensuring perfect fit and presentation:
"The cookies fit perfectly into my mason jars. So it was great." [14:04]
Angela from Mansville, New Jersey: Angela describes her lime coconut snowball cookies, detailing her process of incorporating cream cheese and lime zest, then glazing and coating them in coconut:
"They are just so delicious and they look like little snowballs. So they're really fun too." [15:13]
Allison's Query: Allison, identifying herself as a novice baker seeking advice, asks for beginner-friendly cookie recommendations. Eric suggests his lemon turmeric crinkle cookies and ginger cheesecake cookies as ideal starting points:
"My lemon turmeric crinkle cookies are meant for beginners. They're really simple. It's just a one bowl dough." [16:00]
He underscores the importance of focusing on quality over quantity:
"Quality matters more than quantity when it comes to cookies." [16:07]
Conclusion
The episode wraps up with Eric sharing his enthusiasm for holiday cookie baking, reinforcing the idea that baking is not just about creating treats but also about fostering community and joy. He extends warm holiday wishes to listeners, encouraging them to enjoy the baking process and the delicious results.
Notable Quotes:
- "Weigh your flour. If you don't have a scale, you can also spoon the flour into the measuring cup and level it off with the back of a butter knife." — Eric Kim [03:46]
- "Get a small ice cream scoop. [...] It makes the cookie experience much more manageable." — Eric Kim [07:40]
- "The cookie baking experience should be really fun for you." — Eric Kim [07:55]
- "It's just a one bowl dough. I think that one has given people a lot of success." — Eric Kim [16:00]
This episode of ALL OF IT provides a rich exploration of holiday cookie baking, blending expert advice with heartfelt listener stories. Whether you're an experienced baker or just starting, Eric Kim's insights offer valuable tips to make your holiday cookie season a sweet success.