Podcast Summary: All Of It – "Make Morgenstern's Finest Ice Cream at Home"
Episode Details
- Title: Make Morgenstern's Finest Ice Cream at Home
- Host: Alison Stewart
- Guest: Nicholas Morgenstern, Founder of Morgenstern's Finest Ice Cream
- Release Date: June 30, 2025
- Duration: Approximately 22 minutes
Introduction to Morgenstern's Finest Ice Cream
Alison Stewart opens the episode by highlighting Nicholas Morgenstern's transition from pastry chef to ice cream connoisseur. She introduces Morgenstern's Ice Cream Parlor, established in 2014 on New York City's Lower East Side, renowned for its inventive flavors and deep respect for classic ice cream traditions.
Alison Stewart [00:29]:
"Ice cream is fun, but making it is serious business. That's the vibe of Nicholas Morgenstern's new cookbook."
Nicholas Morgenstern’s Journey into Ice Cream Making
Morgenstern shares his background, initially working in auto mechanics before pursuing pastry in trade school. His technical inclination and the shorter education pathway led him to culinary arts in 1997.
Nicholas Morgenstern [01:32]:
"The education was shorter. It's more technical. And so it was a natural thing for me, more of a fit for me."
He recounts his early experiences with ice cream machines in various culinary roles, fostering a long-standing interest in ice cream that ultimately inspired him to open his own shop and later release a comprehensive cookbook.
Family Roots and Ice Cream as a Marker of Success
Morgenstern delves into his family history, emphasizing how ice cream symbolized success and quality of life in his grandparents' modest Midwest household. His grandfather, who grew up during the Depression and worked in a dairy, made ice cream a staple indulgence.
Nicholas Morgenstern [03:06]:
"Grandpa Morgenstern finished every meal with a bowl of ice cream. Sometimes there was pie, but there was always ice cream in the freezer."
This familial connection influences his commitment to creating high-quality ice cream, honoring traditional flavors like butter pecan, which pays homage to his grandfather's favorite.
Commitment to Quality and Local Sourcing
Morgenstern emphasizes the paramount importance of quality in his ice cream-making process. He details his approach to sourcing ingredients locally, avoiding preservatives, and crafting most components in-house to ensure authenticity and excellence.
Nicholas Morgenstern [04:45]:
"The quality of the product is the top priority. We make almost everything ourselves."
He highlights the absence of artificial additives, ensuring that every flavor maintains its pure and distinct character.
Dispelling Common Ice Cream Myths: No Egg-Based Custards
A significant portion of the discussion revolves around Morgenstern's decision to exclude eggs from most of his ice cream recipes. He explains that egg-based custards impart a specific flavor and texture that can overshadow more subtle flavors.
Nicholas Morgenstern [07:58]:
"Frozen egg or custard has a flavor. Creme brulee has a specific taste... it gets in the way of subtle flavors like vanilla."
By avoiding eggs, Morgenstern allows the natural flavors of ingredients like Madagascar vanilla to shine, offering a purer tasting experience.
Navigating New York’s Competitive Ice Cream Scene
Morgenstern reflects on New York City's dynamic ice cream landscape, characterized by fluctuating trends and varying quality standards. He criticizes some establishments for relying heavily on preservatives and distant production methods, which compromise flavor and texture.
Nicholas Morgenstern [05:48]:
"I felt offended that something so good was being made so badly."
His critique underscores his mission to elevate ice cream quality standards in the city, a mission that resonated well when he introduced his own offerings through an ice cream cart.
Engaging with the Community: Policies and Philosophy
Addressing listener feedback, Morgenstern explains his policy against offering ice cream samples. He believes in encouraging customers to commit to their choices, trusting in the quality and consistency of his creations.
Nicholas Morgenstern [09:07]:
"If you're going to give me a French custard, I love that. I know what it is. We are obsessed with balancing quality and texture."
This policy reflects his confidence in his products and his dedication to maintaining high standards without relying on taste tests.
Innovative Flavor Development and Seasonal Offerings
The conversation delves into Morgenstern's meticulous approach to flavor development. He describes a structured method, categorizing flavors under vanilla, chocolate, coffee, and miscellaneous, allowing for both consistency and experimentation.
Nicholas Morgenstern [10:07]:
"We make sure that the characteristics of each of the flavors have their own identity."
He highlights unique flavors like burnt honey vanilla and Vietnamese coffee, demonstrating his commitment to both tradition and innovation.
Alison Stewart [10:07]:
"Five to seven types of vanilla every day. What distinguishes them?"
Home Ice Cream Making: Tools and Tips
Listeners' questions prompt Morgenstern to discuss home ice cream-making tools. He critiques devices like the Ninja Creamy, advocating instead for traditional methods involving rock salt and ice machines or professional-grade equipment like the Paco Jet.
Nicholas Morgenstern [12:53]:
"I strongly recommend that you use a rock salt and ice machine for making your ice cream at home. In my professional opinion."
He underscores the importance of using stabilizers and specific techniques to achieve the desired texture and consistency.
The Journey to Publishing a Cookbook
Morgenstern explains his initial reluctance to publish a cookbook, viewing his recipes as coveted trade secrets. However, celebrating a decade in the business inspired him to share his knowledge and experiences.
Nicholas Morgenstern [18:08]:
"I wanted to document what we have been doing at Morgan's for the last 10 years."
The cookbook, "Morgenstern's Finest Ice Cream," offers detailed recipes and insights into his artisanal ice cream-making processes, bridging the gap between professional craftsmanship and home enthusiasts.
Interacting with Callers: Community Feedback
Throughout the episode, listeners call in to share their experiences and ask questions, showcasing the strong community around Morgenstern's ice cream:
-
Reid from Brooklyn [11:46]:
Discusses the challenges of long lines and inquires about home ice cream devices like Ninja Creamy.Morgenstern [12:53]:
Reiterates his preference for traditional methods over modern gadgets. -
Alec from Rockaway [14:45]:
Expresses love for Morgenstern's chocolate sorbet.Morgenstern [15:24]:
Elaborates on the simplicity and richness of the chocolate sorbet, highlighting his favorite ice cream shops globally. -
Barbara from the Upper West Side [16:37]:
Praises Morgenstern's coffee ice cream.Morgenstern [17:02]:
Introduces his Vietnamese coffee flavor, balancing condensed milk for sweetness with strong coffee notes. -
Patty from Brooklyn [19:27]:
As a former Dairy Queen employee, questions about soft serve quality.Morgenstern [19:35]:
Praises his own shop's soft serve while acknowledging Dairy Queen's consistency.
Final Thoughts and Recommendations
As the episode concludes, Morgenstern offers practical advice for aspiring home ice cream makers, emphasizing essential tools and ingredients. He encourages experimenting with flavors while maintaining a commitment to quality and authenticity.
Nicholas Morgenstern [20:49]:
"You need a pot, a mixing bowl... and some milk powder."
He underscores the importance of investing in proper equipment to replicate the artisanal quality of his ice cream at home.
Conclusion
In this episode of All Of It, Alison Stewart engages in a comprehensive discussion with Nicholas Morgenstern, delving into his passion for high-quality ice cream, the philosophy behind his unique flavors, and the journey to sharing his craft through a dedicated cookbook. Listeners gain valuable insights into artisanal ice cream making, the importance of tradition fused with innovation, and the commitment required to excel in a competitive culinary landscape.
For more episodes and insights into culture and its consumers, tune into All Of It with Alison Stewart, weekdays from 12:00 - 2:00 PM on WNYC.