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Alison Stewart
This is all of it on wnyc. I'm Alison Stewart. Here are some of the ice cream flavors you can expect to try at Malae in Brooklyn Gardens. Excuse me, in Carroll Gardens, Masala, Chai Orange Fennel Coffee, cardamom and of course the most popular ice cream, Rose with cinnamon Roasted almonds. You can thank malai founder and CEO Pooja Bhavishe. In 2015 she switched careers. Pooja went from an MBA to the ice cream business. Pooja is a first generation Indian American and she wanted to create ice cream cream reminiscent of the South Asian flavors that she grew up with. Like her parents, Chai, Pooja later opened a brick and mortar store in Carroll Gardens at 269 Smith St. If you've been you've seen how popular it is and the business is growing with a second location in D.C. and a third opening in Philly this spring. Pooja has written a new cookbook with ice cream recipes as well as other sweet desserts. It's called Malai Frozen Desserts inspired by South Asian flavors. I'm happy that she joins us in studio. By the way, Pooja is hosting a TikTok make your own Sunday party and book signing at melai tomorrow at 6pm but we're happy to have her here now. Nice to meet you.
Pooja Bhavishi
Thank you so much for having me. I'm so happy to be here.
Alison Stewart
Before we even get into the recipes in the cookbook, I want to talk about your story. You started in 2015. Where were you in your life?
Pooja Bhavishi
I honestly I've always wanted to have my own dessert business my entire life. It was something I just knew because I loved making desserts. I loved the hospitality behind it. I love how happy desserts make people. And so I just knew that I wanted my own dessert business. And in my second to last semester of business school it was just like this aha moment that I had when I made ice cream for the very first time. Ice cream obviously has dairy and butter fat and all of those things carry spice really beautifully and I very naturally flavored these ice creams with Indian spices. It wasn't like this like separation of like this is Indian versus not or anything like that. It was just these flavors that I knew and love and I realized that there was an opportunity there how much.
Alison Stewart
Did you know about the ice cream business before starting Malay0.
Pooja Bhavishi
I didn't know anything about the ice cream business. I am not, you know, I'm not culinarily trained. What I did almost immediately after making this decision is I, I tried to gain as much knowledge as possible. And so I went to this Penn State ice cream course. It's this renowned ice cream course at Penn State where you learn kind of the commercial process of ice cream making. And so there I turned my recipe into a formula, you know, really developed like the FDA standard of what ice cream is, you know, learned about milk solids, milk fat, and then started the journey. So I finished out business school that last semester and then sold my first scoop three weeks after graduation.
Alison Stewart
Nice listeners. Have you ever gotten ice cream at Malai in Carroll Gardens? Do you have a favorite flavor? Call or text us now. 2124-3396-9221-2433. WNYC. Do you have any questions about making ice cream or are you part of the South Asian diaspora like Pooja? Who wants to shout out your favorite South Asian dessert? Our number is 2124-3396-9221-2433. WNYC or you can hit us up on Instagram llnyc. What does Malai mean?
Pooja Bhavishi
So malai literally means cream and then figuratively can mean the best of something, the cream of the crop. And I just also always loved the way that the word sounded. It's like very soft and feels like ice cream. And so that's why I wanted to name it Malaise.
Listener/Host
What was really difficult about getting Malai the store off the ground?
Pooja Bhavishi
I think the most difficult thing about having an ice cream business in general is something really obvious but. But often overlooked, which is that it's frozen. It's really hard to keep things at temperature and to, you know, ice cream can go from being super rock hard, solid, unscoopable, you know, too, too hard for anything to melting in a matter of. And so like, it's that balance that we always have to make sure that, you know, the customers are getting the best possible experience and getting it at that right temperature where like the flavor is going to like meld into your mouth and you get all of the good stuff of ice cream.
Listener/Host
Now you grew up in North Carolina, right?
Pooja Bhavishi
I did, yes.
Listener/Host
And your parents are first generation.
Pooja Bhavishi
Yeah.
Listener/Host
You're first generation, I'd say. Why did your parents first come to the country?
Pooja Bhavishi
My dad came for schooling. Actually, he came for grad school. And then my mom Came over after they got married.
Listener/Host
And when you were growing up, how did South Asian flavors, what meaning did they have in your life?
Pooja Bhavishi
Yeah, it wasn't anything that was, you know, separated or distinct. It's just the way that I grew up. You know, I grew up South Asian, you know, like, with the Indian cultural heritage. And so it was just always present in really obvious ways and not so obvious ways. And so, like, when I thought of Malay and when I thought of the concept of Malai, it wasn't that I wanted to create this, like, Indian ice cream brand. It was really that I wanted to mainstream these flavors.
Alison Stewart
Interesting.
Pooja Bhavishi
I grew up in suburban North Carolina, and these flavors are. Was like, they were as common to me as anything else. And why aren't they as common to everyone else? Right. Like, this is. I'm as American as anyone else. And so it's a real bridge, kind of. It's exactly. So, like, it's really that I want. I don't want people to think that this is the best Indian ice cream that they've ever had. I want it to be the best ice cream that they've ever had. And so it's really that, like, if we are becoming these neighborhood local ice cream shops, how do we, you know, how do we become a part of people's stories? How do we become a part of people's lives? And it's through mainstreaming these flavors.
Alison Stewart
It's so interesting. I heard about Malai last year when a listener to the show, Nick, wherever you are, thank you so much. When I was out with my illness, he sent me a gift card to Malai. I was like, this is really interesting.
Pooja Bhavishi
I love that.
Alison Stewart
And so I went on over. I was excited. I got on the subway. I went to Brooklyn, and I was blown away by the different flavors.
Pooja Bhavishi
I was so happy to hear that.
Alison Stewart
It was so great.
Pooja Bhavishi
Do you remember what you got?
Alison Stewart
I think I got the rose cinnamon.
Pooja Bhavishi
Yep. Yeah. That's our most popular.
Alison Stewart
Yeah. And I still have money left in that card, by the way. So I'm headed back out to you. I want to read a line from your book, your cookbook, which is frozen desserts inspired by South Asian flavors, says a stereotype recognized among Indian subcultures is that of Gujaratis.
Pooja Bhavishi
Gujaratis, yeah.
Alison Stewart
Thank you, Gujatis. They tend to like their food sweet. Indeed. We guarantees add sweetness to our lentils and other savory dishes. As if there isn't any sweetness in the main meal. We have a piece of. Goes on and on about how much you like sweet.
Pooja Bhavishi
Sweet first of all, Is that true? 100%. It's so funny because I was having. My parents and I were having a meal. My mom made this very traditional kajarati meal just to couple of weeks ago, and there wasn't. It was a more savory meal. There wasn't sweetness in the dal. And so we all just took a piece of jaggery, which is like a South Asian sugar. It comes in block form. It's a little soft. It's a really interesting texture.
Alison Stewart
Interesting.
Pooja Bhavishi
And we just put it on our plates. Like, it's just something that we needed because we needed that sweetness to be there. So, yes, my sweet tooth is pretty bold.
Listener/Host
Listeners, have you ever gotten ice cream at Malai in Carroll Gardens?
Alison Stewart
Do you have a favorite flavor?
Listener/Host
Do you have any questions about making ice cream at home? You can call or text us now at 2124-3396-9221-2433. WNYC. My guest is Pooja Vaviche. She's the founder and CEO of Malai, an ice cream shop. And we're talking about her new cookbook, Frozen Desserts Inspired by South Asian Flavors. You write that your gateway into Malai was your memories of chai as a kid, and you really identify with chai. Why is that so foundational for you?
Pooja Bhavishi
You know, I think for me, it was, like, kind of the ritual aspect of it. I don't remember a single morning of my childhood without chai. Like, it was always there, but it wasn't even just the flavor of it. Like, I grew up drinking chai. Like, I. My mom would mix a little dilute the chai with a little bit of milk. And so I would have chai every morning, first of all. And I loved the smell of it. It was just, like, really this intoxicating smell of spices and sugar and milkiness. And I just love the smell of it. And it really felt like home to me. But really, there's so many aspects of chai. First of all, it's like my mom making it every morning. No one but my mom makes the chai. It's the spice blend. The masala is my mom's family's recipe. So it's something that my grandmother created. My aunt continues on, and we get it from, you know, that the exact ratio of spice blend is what we use in our ice cream even, and it's what my mom uses.
Alison Stewart
Yeah. I was gonna ask, how do you get that specific flavor from what you remember to your ice cream?
Pooja Bhavishi
Yeah. And it's because of the spice Blend and exact the exact ratios. But what's so interesting about masala chai is that, like the actual drink is that what I remember most about growing up is this tea kettle that my mom used when I was a child, but also still uses today. And it's a stainless steel teakettle. And in the morning I would be upstairs getting ready and I would hear it clank. It would just be like this clank of a teakettle. She would finish making chai and she would close it. And to me, that was just a signal that the day has begun. And so there was just so many of these sensory moments of chai that just shaped my childhood. And it was just always, always present. And so that's why it just means so much to me. It really started this journey for me.
Alison Stewart
We've got some good texts here. Love Malai. Been a follower since the Brooklyn Flea days. Recommend nearly every flavor. This one says yes. The gulab jamun kek.
Pooja Bhavishi
Yes. Yeah.
Alison Stewart
Are my faves. But every flavor is exquisite. Literally the best ice cream. The next one said, we made a special trip to Carroll Gardens to try the. Hope I pronounced this right. Gulab jamun cake.
Pooja Bhavishi
Yeah.
Alison Stewart
I was suspicious of how that would work, but it was delicious.
Pooja Bhavishi
Oh, I'm so glad.
Alison Stewart
Tell us a little more about this cake.
Pooja Bhavishi
Yeah. So the gulab jamun cake. So gulab jamun is a very traditional Indian dessert. It's also one of the most popular Indian desserts here in the States. It's a like, basically a milky, like a milk powder based cardamom donut that is fried and then soaked in a saffron and rose water syrup. It's so, so good. It's so decadent.
Alison Stewart
Oh, that sounds so good.
Pooja Bhavishi
So we turned it into a cake by creating these like, saffron, saffron syrup soaked cakes. And then we take our signature rose with cinnamon roasted almonds ice cream and kind of sandwich it in between these cakes. And it has that kind of this feeling of frozen gulab jamun. But we actually like. So one of the things, because that cake is so popular, I wanted to always create it into an ice cream flavor. And so I did it in the cookbook. I did it for the cookbook. And that's one of the flavors that we're actually selling at Malai throughout now, especially for the cookbook launch, today's pub day. But even beyond. So we take that saffron rose water, cardamom flavorings and actually put pieces of the donut into the ice cream. So now there's Two ways to get this traditional Indian dessert at Malai in frozen form.
Listener/Host
All right, you're telling me that I should go and use the rest of my gift cards, correct?
Pooja Bhavishi
As soon as possible.
Alison Stewart
Okay, let's talk a little bit about equipment.
Listener/Host
You recommend that everyone have a microplane grater. You write in the book that it would take your microplane glater. You would take it to a deserted island.
Pooja Bhavishi
I would, yes. I feel strongly about that.
Listener/Host
All right, tell me about your microplane grater.
Pooja Bhavishi
Well, it's just. It's the best way to get, like, a spice grated without pulling out your spice grinder or a mortal and pestle. Like, you just. You're able to, like, grate nutmeg or even cinnamon sticks. And, like, you know, it's just a really easy way to get some spice flavor. You can zest a lemon and orange, get some flavor that way. And also it's, like, good for savory uses, which is not applicable at all here. But, like, I use it to grate my garlic. So, like, it's just a good multipurpose tool.
Listener/Host
You also list an ice cream maker. That's very important. We're talking about ice cream. What should people know if they want to invest in an ice cream maker but really aren't sure where to get started?
Pooja Bhavishi
Yeah, absolutely. So I started malai on my KitchenAid attachment. So, like, I, like, when we're talking about, like, you know, not the most fancy ice cream maker, just like, what we have, that's what I started Malai on. Like, it was this freezer bowl attachment to an existing piece of equipment that I had.
Alison Stewart
Interesting.
Pooja Bhavishi
And so, like, I really recommend that there's a little bit of preparation involved there. You have to. There's a lot of ice cream makers where you have to freeze the bowl overnight so you can get that really creamy frozen ice cream. So there's some preparation involved. But there's also a lot of recipes in the book, I just wanna point out that don't require an ice cream maker or you can buy the ice cream and make the ice cream dessert from it. So I wanted to make it as accessible as possible. There are certainly recipes in the book where you will need an ice cream maker and you can get whatever variety you want. But I think that even, like a kitchen bowl attachment or a freezer bowl, anything like that is totally fine.
Listener/Host
My guest is Pooja Bhavishi. She is the founder and CEO of Malai, an ice cream shop in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn. We're speaking to her about her new Cookbook Pub today, Malai Frozen Desserts inspired by South Asian flavors. And we're taking your calls and texts. Have you ever gotten ice cream Alai? What did you get? Do you have any questions about making this at home? Give us a call. 2124-3396-9221-2433. WNYC. You can call us, join us on air, or text to us at that number. You've got several recipes. You have a recipe in for sweet milk ice cream.
Pooja Bhavishi
Yes.
Listener/Host
That's basically the base correct at Malai. First of all, what does good ice cream base need to ultimately provide good ice cream?
Pooja Bhavishi
Okay, I'm gonna geek out a little bit here.
Listener/Host
All right, do it.
Pooja Bhavishi
Okay. So what you want with ice cream when you're tasting ice cream is that you want a total and complete flavor arc. So you want to be able to taste the dairy. I mean, if there's flavoring in sweet milk, what you're tasting is really the milk, the dairy. But even in flavored ice cream, you want to be able to taste the dairy. So the first thing that you want to taste is the flavor and sweet milk is the dairy. The second thing is the dairy. So that continues for the sweet milk and it's going to round out the flavor. So after that you want to get some nuance. So we use a lot of cream cheese based ice creams. And in that you get like, because of like that saltiness and that little bit of tang that's in there, it's going to go back to the flavor note. So for rose ice cream, it'll go back to the rose, or for orange fennel, it'll go back to the orange fennel. Right. Like you'll start there, you'll kind of in the middle, it'll be there. And then because of the liquid sugar that we have there, whether that's honey or maple syrup, you want it to end on that note. It's gonna, it's gonna feel like a cooked sugar note almost, almost caramelly. And that's what you wanna end the kind of flavor arc on. And the reason for that is that you'll have a complete flavor. It won't feel like the flavor just you take a bite of ice cream and you know how sometimes it just dissipates in your mouth. You don't want that. You wanna feel really satisfied. And at the end of that, with that caramel note, you will.
Alison Stewart
I love that story, the story arc of ice cream.
Listener/Host
It's amazing.
Alison Stewart
This says, I love that Malai does soft Serve.
Listener/Host
Most newer ice creams don't do it. And the flavors at Malai are so interesting. Why did you decide to do soft serve?
Pooja Bhavishi
Because I love soft serve. I think soft serve is so incredibly satisfying and it's really easy to, like, flavor it the way we want to flavor it. Right now we have cherry blossom, cardamom, lemon ginger. It's great.
Listener/Host
This is great. This text says, a few years ago, Malai started offering soft serve during the warmer months. One made with dairy and one dairy free. My husband has celiac disease and a dairy allergy and I'm lactose intolerant. When we discovered the soft serve, which was hands down the best dairy free soft serve ever, it almost made my husband cry.
Pooja Bhavishi
Oh, my goodness.
Listener/Host
Let's talk about those kind of options. You have vegan options as well?
Pooja Bhavishi
We do, yeah. We have dairy free options always available at Melai.
Listener/Host
When you're thinking about cooking, I guess you wouldn't cook with. When you're thinking about making recipes with ice cream, what's important to keep in mind when you're already dealing with the ice cream and adding something else on?
Pooja Bhavishi
I think the most important thing is just to get good ingredients. And so I talk about that in the pantry staple section in the cookbook, getting good spices. And I list a couple of companies where you can get really, really good spices. They're not sitting around in warehouses for a really long time. They're still really potent. That will make or break the ice cream experience. And so really getting ingredients is what's going to make your ice cream delicious. Yeah.
Listener/Host
I was going to ask where to get rose water.
Pooja Bhavishi
Yeah. So our rose water we actually get from the Indian store, the Indian grocery store. And it is, it's just, it has a sweetness to it. There's so many brands of rose water and you can pick the one that you love most. But like, when you're talking about whole spices, Burlap and barrel, Diaspora Company, Curio Spice Company, like all of these spice companies are really, are sourcing really ethically and are delivering amazing, amazing spices.
Listener/Host
What has been the biggest challenge now that you're expanding? Sometimes when places are small, they stay small, they're great. And when they expand, sometimes something goes wrong.
Pooja Bhavishi
Yeah, I mean, I think that we're experiencing the same growing pains that a lot of businesses go through. But it's very exciting. I mean, what we're trying to do with Malai, in mainstreaming these flavors and getting them to as many people as possible, we have to grow to achieve that goal. We have to grow. And so it's very exciting to see the reception that we have in place outside. You know, we've been in New York now for seven years. I've had the company for 10. And I love seeing people remembering us from like Smorgasborg and Brooklyn flea days.
Alison Stewart
Sure.
Pooja Bhavishi
Yeah. Like, it was just when it was just me in a tent. And so it's really exciting to see how many people are excited about these flavors outside of New York now as well.
Alison Stewart
What's your favorite flavor? Come on. I have to ask you.
Pooja Bhavishi
I'm not going to.
Alison Stewart
Oh, come on. What's your second favorite flavor?
Pooja Bhavishi
Well, I will say this. I love the combination of our orange fennel and our coffee cardamom together. Both of the recipes are in the cookbook as well. There's something about both the orange and coffee and the fennel and cardamom that is just incredible. Some chocolate sauce on top and you have yourself an A plus dessert.
Alison Stewart
The name of the cookbook is Frozen Desserts Inspired by South Asian Flavors. My guest is Pooja Bhavishi. There's a special going on. Check it out. She's having a Sunday and book party. It's tomorrow. Have a great book party.
Pooja Bhavishi
By the way, thank you. Thank you for having me.
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All Of It Podcast Summary: "Malai Celebrates South Asian Flavors in Ice Cream"
Episode Release Date: April 8, 2025
Introduction
In this engaging episode of All Of It, hosted by Alison Stewart on WNYC, listeners are introduced to Pooja Bhavishi, the founder and CEO of Malai, a Brooklyn-based ice cream shop renowned for its innovative South Asian-inspired flavors. Pooja also shares insights about her newly released cookbook, Frozen Desserts Inspired by South Asian Flavors. The conversation delves into Pooja’s journey from an MBA graduate to a successful ice cream entrepreneur, the cultural significance of her creations, and the challenges of expanding her beloved business.
Pooja Bhavishi’s Journey to Malai
Alison Stewart opens the discussion by highlighting Pooja’s career transition. In [00:33], Alison recounts Pooja’s shift from pursuing an MBA to entering the ice cream business:
“In 2015 she switched careers. Pooja went from an MBA to the ice cream business. Pooja is a first generation Indian American and she wanted to create ice cream reminiscent of the South Asian flavors that she grew up with.” [00:33]
Pooja elaborates on her lifelong passion for desserts and the moment that sparked her venture:
“I honestly I've always wanted to have my own dessert business my entire life. It was something I just knew because I loved making desserts... I just knew that I wanted my own dessert business.” [01:53]
Despite not having culinary training, Pooja immersed herself in learning the craft, attending a renowned ice cream course at Penn State to refine her recipes into commercially viable products.
Creating Malai: Blending Culture and Flavor
The name Malai, meaning "cream" and figuratively "the best of something," reflects the brand’s essence. Pooja shares:
“Malai literally means cream and then figuratively can mean the best of something... I wanted the best ice cream that they've ever had.” [04:07]
Her goal is to mainstream South Asian flavors, making them as ubiquitous and beloved as traditional American ice cream flavors. Growing up in suburban North Carolina, Pooja was accustomed to flavors like masala chai, which became foundational in her creations.
Signature Flavors and Cookbook Highlights
Pooja discusses several signature flavors at Malai, including Rose with Cinnamon Roasted Almonds, Masala Chai, Orange Fennel, and Coffee Cardamom. She emphasizes the importance of a complete flavor arc in ice cream, ensuring that each scoop delivers a satisfying and nuanced taste experience:
“You want to feel really satisfied. And at the end of that, with that caramel note, you will.” [15:05]
Her cookbook, Frozen Desserts Inspired by South Asian Flavors, features recipes like Gulab Jamun Cake, which fuses the traditional Indian dessert with ice cream, offering two ways to enjoy this classic treat in a frozen form.
Listener Engagement and Personal Stories
Throughout the episode, Alison incorporates listener interactions, sharing personal anecdotes and favorite flavors. For instance, Alison shares her experience visiting Malai after receiving a gift card from a listener:
“I was blown away by the different flavors... I think I got the rose cinnamon. That’s our most popular.” [06:34]
Another listener recounts their delight in discovering Malai’s soft serve options, tailored for various dietary needs:
“We have dairy free options always available at Malai.” [17:25]
Overcoming Challenges and Business Growth
Pooja candidly discusses the challenges of maintaining optimal ice cream texture and the complexities of scaling her business:
“It's really hard to keep things at temperature... the balance that we always have to make sure... customers are getting the best possible experience.” [04:21]
As Malai expands beyond Brooklyn with new locations in Washington D.C. and Philadelphia, Pooja reflects on the growing pains common to expanding businesses but remains optimistic about reaching a broader audience:
“What we're trying to do with Malai, in mainstreaming these flavors and getting them to as many people as possible, we have to grow to achieve that goal.” [18:48]
Tools and Tips for Aspiring Ice Cream Enthusiasts
Pooja offers practical advice for home ice cream makers, emphasizing the importance of quality ingredients and essential tools like a microplane grater and an ice cream maker:
“You want to get good ingredients... they're still really potent. That will make or break the ice cream experience.” [17:41]
She highlights the versatility of a microplane grater for achieving the perfect spice blend and recommends accessible ice cream makers for beginners.
Vegan and Dairy-Free Options
Acknowledging diverse dietary preferences, Pooja shares Malai’s commitment to offering both dairy-based and dairy-free soft serve options, catering to customers with allergies and intolerances:
“We have dairy free options always available at Malai.” [17:25]
This inclusivity ensures that more people can enjoy Malai’s unique flavors without compromising their dietary needs.
Conclusion and Upcoming Events
As the episode wraps up, Pooja promotes her upcoming TikTok make-your-own Sunday party and book signing event, inviting listeners to engage further with her work:
“By the way, thank you for having me.” [20:07]
Alison encourages listeners to explore Malai’s offerings and participate in the community-driven experience that Malai fosters.
Final Thoughts
This episode of All Of It not only showcases the innovative blend of South Asian flavors in modern ice cream but also highlights the cultural storytelling behind each creation. Pooja Bhavishi’s journey and dedication to her craft offer inspiring insights into how cultural heritage can be beautifully integrated into everyday culinary experiences. Malai stands as a testament to the rich tapestry of New York City’s diverse culture, inviting everyone to savor the “cream of the crop” in ice cream.
Notable Quotes
Pooja Bhavishi: “I have to make it as accessible as possible. There are certainly recipes in the book where you will need an ice cream maker and you can get whatever variety you want.” [13:20]
Alison Stewart: “You want to feel really satisfied. And at the end of that, with that caramel note, you will.” [15:05]
Pooja Bhavishi: “It's really that I wanted to mainstream these flavors. I don't want people to think that this is the best Indian ice cream that they've ever had. I want it to be the best ice cream that they've ever had.” [05:57]
Upcoming Event
If you enjoyed this summary and want to explore more about Malai’s delectable South Asian-inspired ice creams, consider visiting their Carroll Gardens location or following Pooja Bhavishi’s journey through her cookbook and upcoming events.