Episode Summary: New Cookbook of Ghanaian Cuisine From ‘Top Chef' Finalist
All Of It with Alison Stewart delves into the rich culinary world of Chef Eric Ajapong in the episode titled "New Cookbook of Ghanaian Cuisine From ‘Top Chef' Finalist," released on March 11, 2025. Hosted by Alison Stewart of WNYC, the episode explores Eric's journey bridging his Ghanaian heritage with his culinary expertise honed in New York City, culminating in his latest cookbook and the opening of his new restaurant, El Amina, in Washington, D.C.
Chef Eric Ajapong's Journey and Culinary Vision
Alison Stewart introduces Chef Eric Ajapong, highlighting his unique background of growing up between New York and Ghana. This bicultural upbringing has significantly influenced Eric's culinary style, blending traditional Ghanaian flavors with contemporary techniques.
Notable Quote:
"I started the restaurant around eight years old, at least, thinking about it and really romanticizing about the idea of bringing West African food, specifically food from Ghana... Elmina is sort of doing that in a space where people can kind of convene and commune and eat together in restaurants."
— Eric Ajapong (01:30)
The New Cookbook: Honoring Tradition While Embracing Innovation
Eric's cookbook, Ghana: To the Recipes and Stories That Look Forward While Honoring the Past, serves as both a homage to traditional Ghanaian cuisine and a platform for modern culinary experimentation. The book features a dual-annotation system: one set of recipes remains faithful to ancestral methods, while the other introduces innovative takes inspired by Eric's travels and collaborations with other chefs.
Notable Quote:
"It's one of the really cool moments of the cookbook where you can kind of go back and forth back in time, but then also sort of look towards the future of what hopefully... some West African food and Ghanaian food specifically can look like."
— Eric Ajapong (02:30)
El Amina: A Culmination of Culinary Passion
El Amina, Eric's recently opened restaurant in Washington, D.C., embodies the essence of his cookbook. It serves as a communal space where patrons can experience both traditional and modern Ghanaian dishes, fostering a deeper appreciation for the culture through food.
Notable Quote:
"It's very similar to the book, bringing stories from the past, traditional sort of recipes and sort of more modern takes on food... the culmination of all of that in one space."
— Eric Ajapong (01:30)
Research and Inspiration: A Return to Ghana
To authentically capture Ghanaian cuisine, Eric embarked on a research trip to Ghana, immersing himself in the local culture and culinary practices. This experience deepened his understanding of communalism and the pivotal role women play in Ghana's economy and food industry.
Notable Quote:
"Communalism. It's a matriarchal sort of society. Women are the backbone, creating the economy, building the economy."
— Eric Ajapong (04:21)
Exploring Ghanaian Markets: A Vibrant Culinary Ecosystem
One of the highlights of Eric's research was his time spent at McColla Market in Ghana. He describes the market's bustling atmosphere, the dedication of local merchants, and the sheer variety of ingredients available, all of which reinforced his connection to Ghanaian culinary traditions.
Notable Quote:
"It's chaotic, it's a lot. It's busy, but it's home for so many people to earn their living... you can get everything from spices to crab to clothing to, you know, cosmetics. It's all there."
— Eric Ajapong (05:03)
Essential Ingredients for West African Cooking
For listeners interested in venturing into West African cuisine, Eric outlines key pantry staples essential for authentic flavor profiles. He emphasizes the importance of ingredients like ginger, garlic, tomato, curry, turmeric, peanut paste, and various heat sources such as habanero and scotch bonnet peppers.
Notable Quote:
"Ginger, garlic, tomato, spices, like curry and turmeric... so many amazing."
— Eric Ajapong (06:17)
He also notes the accessibility of these ingredients in diverse urban centers like New York City, thanks to the internet and multicultural neighborhoods, making Ghanaian cooking more attainable for home cooks everywhere.
Signature Dishes: From Stews to Swallows
Eric discusses several standout recipes from his cookbook, providing listeners with a glimpse into the depth and versatility of Ghanaian cuisine.
Red Red Stew
A staple in Ghanaian households, the Red Red Stew derives its name from the vibrant palm oil used in its preparation. Eric describes the stew as a harmonious blend of black-eyed peas, palm oil, crayfish powder for umami, and various accompaniments like avocado and sweet plantain.
Notable Quote:
"Red red gets its name from the palm oil that it's cooked in... absolutely, absolutely delicious."
— Eric Ajapong (08:40)
Swallows: The Culinary Vessel
Swallows such as fufu, benku, kenke, and motu serve as the foundational vessels in Ghanaian meals, similar to how rice or pasta functions in Western cuisines. Eric highlights the cultural significance of eating with hands, fostering a deeper connection with the food.
Notable Quote:
"We eat with our hands. So there's a ritual that goes behind it... it's one of the most delicious bites that you'll have."
— Eric Ajapong (09:28)
Arugula Salad with Ghanaian Ingredients
A fusion dish from the cookbook, this arugula salad incorporates toasted egusi seeds (melon seeds) to add texture and depth. Eric explains his inspiration for combining crunchy elements with fresh greens to create a balanced and flavorful dish.
Notable Quote:
"Having that recipe and using these ingredients in that specific way is so unique, but then also very familiar."
— Eric Ajapong (10:48)
Bofruit: A Nostalgic Dessert
Reflecting on his childhood, Eric shares his favorite dessert, bofruit—a fried dough treat akin to beignets. In the restaurant, this dessert is elevated with cinnamon sugar and paired with Milo ice cream, offering a delightful contrast of flavors and textures.
Notable Quote:
"It's the perfect bite. You know, summer, winter, fall, whenever the season is, it's always time for bofruit."
— Eric Ajapong (11:31)
Cooking Tips: Simplest and Most Challenging Recipes
Eric provides practical advice for aspiring cooks delving into Ghanaian cuisine. He recommends starting with making ginger garlic paste, a fundamental base for many dishes, as the simplest recipe. For those seeking a challenge, he suggests attempting wache, a more involved dish that encapsulates the complexity and richness of Ghanaian flavors.
Notable Quote:
"The easiest thing to do is just blending ginger and garlic together... And then the most difficult thing. Wow, the wache, probably."
— Eric Ajapong (12:35)
Conclusion: Building a Culinary Community
As the conversation wraps up, Alison Stewart reiterates Eric's upcoming speaking event at Padmore's in Brooklyn, encouraging listeners to engage with his work and partake in the burgeoning Ghanaian culinary scene.
Notable Quote:
"We're talking about his new cookbook, Ghana: To the recipes and stories that look forward while honoring the past. He'll be speaking tonight at Padmore's in Brooklyn."
— Alison Stewart (13:28)
Chef Eric Ajapong's episode on All Of It offers an inspiring exploration of Ghanaian cuisine through the lens of personal heritage and modern culinary innovation. Whether you're a seasoned chef or a curious home cook, Eric's insights and recipes provide a gateway to experiencing the vibrant flavors and cultural richness of Ghana.