Podcast Summary: All Of It with Alison Stewart – "Recipes and Stories on the Origin of American Cuisine"

Episode Information

• Title: Recipes and Stories on the Origin of American Cuisine
• Host: Alison Stewart
• Guest: Jessica B. Harris, Acclaimed Culinary Historian and Author
• Release Date: July 2, 2025
• Duration: Approximately 26 minutes

Introduction

In this engaging episode of All Of It, hosted by Alison Stewart, the spotlight is on Jessica B. Harris, a renowned culinary historian, discussing her latest book, Braided Heritage: Recipes and Stories on the Origin of American Cuisine. The conversation delves into the intricate blending of Native American, European, and African culinary traditions that have shaped American cuisine.

Inspiration Behind Braided Heritage

[00:45 – 03:42]

Alison Stewart introduces Jessica B. Harris and her new book, highlighting its focus on how indigenous, European, and African traditions have intertwined to create the diverse landscape of American cuisine. Harris explains that the book is not merely a historical account but an exploration of the "American braid"—a metaphor for the complex interweaving of different cultural influences.

Jessica B. Harris [02:48]: "The whole idea of that tripartite thread that creates our braid, our American braid, as I call it, that is."

This concept emphasizes the foundational role of these three cultural groups in developing what is recognized today as American food culture.

Selecting Voices: The Interviewees

[04:01 – 08:16]

Jessica shares her approach to selecting individuals to feature in her book, primarily drawing from close personal connections. She highlights nine friends and introduces two Native American voices, notably Sean Sherman, a prominent chef dedicated to "decolonizing" Native American cuisine by removing European and African influences.

Jessica B. Harris [05:46]: "Sean Sherman... decolonizing the food of his people, that is to say, removing everything that came with contact, contact with Europeans, contact with Africans."

This approach underscores the book's commitment to showcasing authentic and revitalized indigenous culinary practices.

Exploring Native American Culinary Traditions

[08:44 – 10:50]

The discussion shifts to Julianne Vanderhoop, a Wampanoag chef from Martha's Vineyard. Harris describes Vanderhoop's innovative dishes that honor Wampanoag traditions while adapting to contemporary tastes.

Jessica B. Harris [09:00]: "She does clams, clam fritters and also clear broth, clam chowder... a tempura battered sugar maple leaf."

Harris highlights the use of wild rice, distinguishing it from common rice in terms of flavor and cultural significance.

Jessica B. Harris [05:57]: "It's this glorious, nutty tasting, wonderful, wonderful, wonderful grain that is just, you know, a beautiful underpinning for anything."

Infusing European Influences into the American Braid

[12:31 – 15:31]

Jessica introduces Melissa Guerra, a food blogger and photographer from the Texas-Mexico borderlands. Guerra's background, rooted in both Spanish and Irish heritage, exemplifies the permeability and blending of cultures that influence American cuisine.

Jessica B. Harris [13:28]: "The Spaniards went to get Irish to help them settle because they were also Catholic."

One notable recipe discussed is stewed salt cod in tomato sauce, which exemplifies the fusion of Old World ingredients (cod, olive oil, onion) with New World elements (tomatoes, bell peppers).

Jessica B. Harris [14:13]: "We get Old World, New World, Old World, New World... turning salt cod into empanadas."

Celebrating African American Culinary Contributions

[17:26 – 21:00]

The conversation transitions to African American recipes that deserve more recognition. Harris emphasizes watermelon rind pickles as a testament to the African American ethos of minimizing food waste.

Jessica B. Harris [17:48]: "There's no such thing as food waste if we can help it. So the rind gets pickled."

She also discusses johnny cakes and chicken croquettes, highlighting their historical significance and enduring presence in American kitchens.

Jessica B. Harris [20:02]: "A johnny cake is like... a corn cake... they are, you know, a kind of iron skillet cornbread."

Defining American Culture Through Culinary Origins

[22:15 – 25:09]

When asked to define American culture in the context of her book, Harris reiterates the importance of the "American braid" comprising Native, European, and African influences.

Jessica B. Harris [22:47]: "Those three origin cultures, or those three origin points, of the braid, native, European and African, are what kind of defines this hemisphere."

She acknowledges the broader diversity of contemporary America but focuses her analysis on the foundational influences that her book explores.

Listener Appreciation and Closing Remarks

[25:09 – 26:18]

A listener expresses heartfelt appreciation for the episode, praising its depth and the beauty of tracing culinary origins.

Listener [25:09]: "Tracing the origins of these dishes brings me joy to think of the real lives that were being lived on this land over the centuries..."

Alison Stewart responds warmly, highlighting the connection between the conversation and the thematic "Three is a Magic Number" from Schoolhouse Rock, which ties back to the episode's exploration of three foundational cultural threads.

Conclusion

This episode of All Of It masterfully intertwines historical context with personal narratives, illustrating how American cuisine embodies a rich tapestry of cultural influences. Through Jessica B. Harris's insightful discussions and evocative recipes, listeners gain a deeper appreciation for the diverse and interconnected roots of the food that defines the United States.

Notable Quotes:

• Jessica B. Harris [02:48]: "The whole idea of that tripartite thread that creates our braid, our American braid, as I call it, that is."
• Jessica B. Harris [05:57]: "It's this glorious, nutty tasting, wonderful, wonderful, wonderful grain that is just, you know, a beautiful underpinning for anything."
• Jessica B. Harris [17:48]: "There's no such thing as food waste if we can help it. So the rind gets pickled."
• Jessica B. Harris [22:47]: "Those three origin cultures, or those three origin points, of the braid, native, European and African, are what kind of defines this hemisphere."
• Listener [25:09]: "Tracing the origins of these dishes brings me joy to think of the real lives that were being lived on this land over the centuries..."

Recommendation: For those interested in the historical and cultural narratives that shape American cuisine, Jessica B. Harris's Braided Heritage offers a compelling and flavorful journey through the nation's diverse culinary landscape.