Podcast Summary: All Of It — Small Stakes, Big Opinions: Best Thanksgiving Side?
Host: Alison Stewart
Guest: Deb Perelman (Founder, Smitten Kitchen)
Date: November 24, 2025
Theme: Thanksgiving Side Dishes — opinions, recipes, and traditions
Overview
This episode of All Of It is part of the "Small Stakes, Big Opinions" series, zooming in on an essential, heated culinary debate: which Thanksgiving side dishes rule the table? Host Alison Stewart is joined by Deb Perelman, home cooking icon and founder of Smitten Kitchen, to hash out recipes, tips, and traditions — with plenty of listener input on sides they love or love to hate. It's a lively, opinionated, and practical deep-dive for anyone prepping a holiday feast.
Key Discussion Points & Insights
Why Sides Matter (00:09–01:36)
- Alison sets the table: The episode sidesteps turkey talk to focus on the unsung heroes — side dishes. Listeners are invited to share the sides they love, despise, or can’t live without.
- Deb’s big opinion:
“Side should come in a casserole or a gratin dish whenever possible.” (Deb, 01:36)
- Why? Casseroles reheat well, stay warm, and are essential for “small apartment, small oven” logistics.
The Casserole/Gratin Advantage (01:36–03:13)
- Stack-ability:
“You can kinda jenga it back… stack three or four or five sides at once, which is essential right before dinner.” (Deb, 01:40)
- Make-ahead tips: Assembled sides can often be baked ahead, offering flexibility and reducing last-minute stress.
Recipe Highlights & Deb’s Favorites
Brown Butter Baked Carrots (03:55–06:05)
- The idea: Move away from roasted sheet-pan carrots, which can shrivel if not timed perfectly.
- The method: Use a bag of (not-really) baby carrots for ease. Bake with brown butter, capers, herbs, and top with breadcrumbs and cheese for texture and flavor.
- Why capers?
“They add like a nice punctuation and brightness.” (Deb, 05:34)
- Richness: “Cheese.” (Deb, 06:05)
[Listener Question:] Savory Sweet Potatoes (06:09–07:36)
-
Alternative to marshmallows:
“I’ve got you covered … slow roasted sweet potatoes … rub in olive oil, salt and pepper, bake them low and slow … almost candy-like inside, crunchy outside. You don’t need anything on top.” (Deb, 06:20)
- Can be made ahead and reheated easily.
-
Marshmallows take:
“Once a year. Once a year. It tastes so good.” (Deb, 07:16)
Cranberry Sauce Loyalty (07:36–08:07)
- Canned or homemade:
“I’m pro. … I love like a cranberry sauce just from the back of the bag recipe, but I respect [the can].” (Deb, 07:46)
- Pro tip: Top canned cranberry with orange zest or chopped pistachios for flair.
Challah Stuffing (08:07–09:48)
- Why challah?
“Natural sweetness and richness of challah goes so well with stuffing without adding sugary things. … Butter, onion, celery, herbs. … You cannot mess it up.” (Deb, 08:27)
- Keep it simple:
“Sometimes just a really simple thing … leeks, celery, herbs, butter, broth — that’s it.” (Deb, 09:33)
Listener-Driven Sections
- Gregory from the Bronx: Shares a sweet potato casserole recipe (with pecan crust and roasted butternut squash) and smartly details prep (“roast butternut squash cut side down so the moisture cooks out”) (11:11).
- Text shout-outs:
- Lingonberries instead of cranberries (12:26)
- “Apple and cheddar crisp salad” for salad-skeptics (12:27)
Green Bean Casserole: Love It or Hate It? (12:27–14:21)
- Deb’s take:
“Pro. But I like it homemade.” (Deb, 12:40)
- Fry your own onions for tangle-y, crispy topping.
- Use fresh green beans, just barely cooked; make a mushroom (or not) white sauce.
“…it’s just a completely different thing when you have it from scratch.” (Deb, 12:44)
- On nostalgia:
“If your nostalgia is for the canned soup, frozen green beans, French’s onions — that’s fine. … But this is the one that converts everyone.” (Deb, 12:52)
- Why fresh?
“When we think of green bean casserole, you’re not really imagining the flavor of green beans… But you can taste it here.” (Deb, 14:08)
Listener Recipes & Memories
- Cranberry sauce tip: Swap water for orange juice, halve the sugar. (Margit, 14:39)
- Unique yam mash: Coconut milk and red curry paste, a family favorite (15:08)
- Corn pudding:
“Doesn’t have to be fancy… a little bit sweet, a little bit savory, it’s perfect.” (Juno, 15:35)
Mac and Cheese (16:59–18:19)
- Skillet-baked innovation:
“I love the browning … and anytime you can take a step out of something, it makes it that way.” (Deb, 16:59)
- No pre-cooking pasta; soak in warm water, then bake with cheese mix in the skillet.
“You can put [the pasta] right in, and as it bakes, it cooks the pasta perfectly… saves a pot, saves a colander.” (Deb, 17:37)
- Cheese choices:
“White cheddar, a little pecorino for sharpness, a little gruyere … something salty, something classic, something a little nutty.” (Deb, 17:50)
Other Table Controversies
- Maryland Crab Casserole: A listener’s controversial family tradition. (18:19)
- Brussels Sprouts:
“Balsamic-braised Brussels with pancetta—keeps well, reheats well… flavor and tanginess… crispy crumbs on top at the end.” (Deb, 18:37)
- Retro Dishes, Jell-O Salad:
“We do not yuck anyone’s yum. That is my family’s mantra.” (Deb, 19:48)
- Onion Gratins: Childhood “ew” turn adult “yum.”
Potato & Leek Gratin (20:08–20:49)
- Secrets to a great gratin:
“Cream and butter and cheese. … One really creamy, decadent dish … leeks break up the heaviness a little bit … nice crispy layer on top.” (Deb, 20:18)
- Salad alternatives: Crunchy, keep-well salads like green beans with almond vinaigrette or Brussels sprouts with apples and pomegranate.
Final Lightening Round
Favorite Side?
-
“Maybe that gratin… but also those slow roasted sweet potatoes… It’s three ingredients, and it’s so good, it’s crazy not to make them.” (Deb, 21:18)
Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments (with Timestamps)
- “Side should come in a casserole or a gratin dish whenever possible.” — Deb, 01:36
- “Don’t sneeze near it, but it totally works.” — Deb, on stacking casseroles, 01:41
- “You can actually still taste the carrots… Carrots that taste like carrots can still be good. I promise.” — Deb, 05:13
- “Once a year. It tastes so good.” — Deb on marshmallows with sweet potatoes, 07:16
- “Natural sweetness and richness of challah goes so well with stuffing without adding sugary things.” — Deb, 08:27
- “We do not yuck anyone’s yum. That is my family’s mantra.” — Deb, on retro and regional dishes, 19:48
- “Cream and butter and cheese. That’s my one…” — Deb on potato & leek gratin, 20:18
Timestamps for Key Segments
- 00:09 — Episode theme setup, invitation for listener opinions
- 01:36 — Deb’s casserole/gratin theory
- 03:55 — Brown butter baked carrots recipe
- 06:09 — Sweet potato alternatives
- 07:36 — Cranberry sauce debate
- 08:07 — Challah stuffing discussion
- 12:27 — Green bean casserole, listener sides
- 16:59 — Skillet mac and cheese hack
- 18:37 — Brussels sprouts, retro dishes, creative listener recipes
- 20:08 — Potato & leek gratin, salads that last
- 21:18 — Deb’s favorite side dishes
Takeaways
- Casserole/gratin dishes are Thanksgiving MVPs for flavor and practicality.
- Sides don’t have to be over-the-top — sometimes simple is best.
- Don’t “yuck” anyone’s tradition; variety and nostalgia are the heart of Thanksgiving.
- Homemade alternatives can upgrade even the most retro classics.
- Strong opinions abound, but good food — and good company — win the day.
For recipes and more: Find Deb’s full write-ups at Smitten Kitchen
Join the conversation: Tune in to All Of It on WNYC for more food culture debates!
