All Of It: Talking Turkey with NYT's Melissa Clark – Detailed Summary

Published on November 27, 2024, by WNYC's "All Of It" hosted by Alison Stewart, this episode features New York Times food columnist and cookbook author Melissa Clark. Centered around Thanksgiving meal preparation, Melissa shares expert tips, answers listener questions, and offers creative solutions for common holiday cooking challenges.

1. Introduction to Thanksgiving Cooking with Melissa Clark

Alison Stewart welcomes Melissa Clark to discuss strategies for preparing a successful Thanksgiving meal. The conversation aims to help listeners navigate the complexities of holiday cooking, from timing the turkey to preparing sides and desserts.

2. Mastering Mashed Potatoes

Question from Reema [01:15]:
“Do you ever add cream cheese to mashed potatoes as some recipes call for? Also, can I make mashed potatoes in the morning for evening dinner? How do I keep them warm or warm them up?”

Melissa Clark’s Insights [02:00]:
Melissa enthusiastically endorses the use of cream cheese in mashed potatoes, highlighting its benefits for texture and preparation flexibility.

Melissa Clark:
“Adding cream cheese to your mashed potatoes really helps stabilize them so you can do your mashed potatoes in the morning, no problem. You add your cream cheese. It keeps everything nice and velvety and it keeps it smooth.”

She recommends preparing mashed potatoes ahead of time and reheating them in the microwave to maintain moisture, avoiding the oven to prevent drying or crust formation.

Melissa Clark:
“My advice is to make them ahead and then just pop them in the microwave right before serving. You are good.”

3. Timing the Thanksgiving Feast

Discussion [02:44]:
Alison addresses the common challenge of coordinating the cooking times for turkey and side dishes. Melissa advises prioritizing the turkey, suggesting a timeline that allows ample time for roasting, resting, and carving.

Melissa Clark:
“Start with your turkey and work backward from there. Everything else, for the most part, can get reheated. You can do your mashed potatoes ahead. You absolutely can do your cranberry sauce ahead. And most vegetables can be reheated.”

4. Navigating Turkey Shortages and Alternatives

Scenario [03:53]:
Alison poses a situation where traditional turkey and key ingredients like cranberries and yams are unavailable.

Melissa Clark’s Solutions [04:05]:

• Turkey Alternatives:
  Melissa suggests using turkey parts such as breasts or thighs, which offer easier cooking times and better control over doneness compared to a whole turkey.

  Melissa Clark:
  “Cooking turkey parts is going to be a lot easier for people because you can do... you can do them on two separate pans.”

• Cranberry Substitutes:
  In the absence of fresh cranberries, she recommends using dried options like craisins, enhanced with apple cider and additional fruits for flavor and color.

  Melissa Clark:
  “Look in the nut section and buy dried cranberries, craisins, those, they'll probably have, plump them up in a little bit of liquid, maybe some apple cider on the stove...”

• Sweet Potato Alternatives:
  If yams are unavailable, butternut squash serves as a suitable substitute, maintaining the traditional orange hue of the meal.

  Melissa Clark:
  “If you can't find yams, look for butternut squash and vice versa. Most recipes for those two are pretty close together.”

5. Listener Questions and Expert Answers

a. Handling a Partially Frozen Turkey

Caller Donna [06:53]:
“I have a 20-pound frozen turkey. It’s been defrosting in the refrigerator since Monday, but it’s still partially frozen. What should I do?”

Melissa Clark’s Guidance [07:16]:

• Removing Giblets:
  Emphasizes the importance of extracting the giblet bag to expedite defrosting.

  Melissa Clark:
  “Take it out of the brine, pat it all over with paper towels, put it on a rack, on a roasting pan or a tray in your fridge and let the air circulate and let the skin dry out.”

• Defrosting Techniques:
  Suggests placing the turkey uncovered in the fridge or leaving it out for a couple of hours if still partially frozen before roasting.

  Melissa Clark:
  “If tomorrow morning your turkey is still a little bit frozen, early in the morning, take it out. You can leave your turkey out of the fridge for two hours if it's still a little frozen, and then put it directly in the oven.”

b. Perfecting Gravy Preparation

Caller Jean [09:00]:
“I loved gravy as a kid, but I haven’t been able to get it the way I had it. Do you have any recommendations for making a good gravy?”

Melissa Clark’s Recommendations [09:12]:

• Make-Ahead Gravy:
  Advocates for preparing gravy in advance to save time and enhance flavor.

  Melissa Clark:
  “I make a make-ahead gravy. First thing is when you're cooking your onions, you need to get them dark brown, get them really dark brown...”

• Incorporating Turkey Drippings:
  Incorporates pan drippings into the pre-made gravy for rich flavor.

  Melissa Clark:
  “After your turkey comes out of the oven, you take those turkey drippings from the bottom of the pan and you pour it into this make-ahead gravy.”

c. Transporting Soup and Serving Solutions

Text Messages [14:09]:

1. “I’m bringing soup. How do I transport it?”
2. “Should I bring throwaway bowls so that I don’t have to do any dishes for the host?”

Melissa Clark’s Advice [14:09]:

• Transporting Soup:
  Recommends using mason jars or large containers, and suggests coordinating with the host for warming options.

  Melissa Clark:
  “If you're going to transfer your soup to containers, you need to talk to your host ahead of time and make sure that they have a big pot for you to warm up your soup.”

• Serving Bowls:
  Suggests bringing disposable paper bowls for convenience and easy cleanup.

  Melissa Clark:
  “I would bring those coffee cups, those paper coffee cups. You can just get a big stack of them at the supermarket instead of bowls...”

d. Preparing a Corn Soufflé Ahead of Time

Caller Marie [15:37]:
“I am making a corn soufflé and wondering if I can prepare it today and bake it tomorrow or bake it today and reheat it?”

Melissa Clark’s Response [16:05]:

• Baking Ahead:
  Recommends baking the soufflé in advance, noting that it may lose some puffiness but will still taste delicious.

  Melissa Clark:
  “It's going to be browned, probably, and beautiful, but it may not be puffy, but that's okay. It's still going to taste great.”

6. Advanced Cooking Tips

a. Preparing Risotto Ahead

Question [17:00]:
“Any tips to make risotto ahead?”

Melissa Clark’s Tips [17:05]:

• Partially Cooking Risotto:
  Suggests cooking risotto to 80% done and finishing it on the day of serving for optimal creaminess.

  Melissa Clark:
  “Make it 75, let's say 80% done... finish it with the remaining liquid...”

• Full Make-Ahead Option:
  Advises that if fully prepared in advance, risotto can be reheated with additional stock, though it may be slightly softer.

  Melissa Clark:
  “If you do make it entirely ahead... the rice may get a little bit softer than, you know, the perfect risotto texture, but it's still going to be really, really good.”

b. Crafting the Perfect Apple Pie

Alison’s Question [18:23]:
“I’m making an apple pie. What makes a good apple pie?”

Melissa Clark’s Strategy [18:29]:

• Cooking Apples Ahead:
  Recommends pre-cooking apples in apple cider and brown sugar to achieve tender, flavorful filling.

  Melissa Clark:
  “I slice, peel and slice my apples. I'm going to cook them in apple cider and brown sugar... until they're just tender.”

• Using Thickeners:
  Incorporates tapioca or cornstarch to thicken the filling before baking.

  Melissa Clark:
  “Then tomorrow when I roast it, I'll add... tapioca, but you could add cornstarch, or you could add flour.”

c. Mastering Blind Baking

Caller Amy [20:02]:
“I have a question about blind baking. I’ve had success just poking it with a fork. What’s the advantage of using pie weights or pennies over that?”

Melissa Clark’s Explanation [20:36]:

• Preventing Slumping:
  Clarifies that while poking prevents puffing, using weights also keeps the crust from slumping on the sides.

  Melissa Clark:
  “If you just poke it with a bunch of holes, it's going to puff up less... but what tends to happen... is that the sides of the crust kind of slump in.”

• Flexibility in Techniques:
  Encourages using whichever method works best for the individual’s pie dough recipe.

  Melissa Clark:
  “If you have a technique that works for you, just use that technique. Just because I do it one way doesn't mean it's the only way to do it.”

7. Final Turkey Cooking Tips and Farewell

Alison’s Last Question [20:02]:
“How many minutes per hour do you suggest cooking a turkey?”

Melissa Clark’s Response [20:36]:

• Cooking Time Uncertainty:
  Admits uncertainty about specific cooking times per pound but emphasizes the importance of checking internal temperatures.

  Melissa Clark:
  “I honestly, I just throw it in there and then I keep checking it... Make sure to take your turkey out of the oven before it reaches 165 because there will be residual heat and it will carry over.”

Both host and guest exchange Thanksgiving greetings as the segment concludes.

Alison Stewart:
“Happy Thanksgiving, by the way.”

Melissa Clark:
“Happy Thanksgiving to you. Happy Thanksgiving to all of your listeners. Have a fantastic day tomorrow.”

Conclusion

In this episode of "All Of It," Melissa Clark provides invaluable advice for navigating Thanksgiving cooking challenges. From mastering mashed potatoes and gravy to handling turkey alternatives and dessert preparations, her expert tips ensure a smooth and delicious holiday meal. Alison Stewart effectively engages listeners with practical solutions and heartfelt interactions, making this episode a must-listen for anyone planning their Thanksgiving feast.