Podcast Summary: All Of It — The Best Cocktails in New York
Host: Tiffany Hansen (in for Alison Stewart)
Guest: Becky Hughes, Food Editor at The New York Times
Date: December 4, 2025
Overview
This episode of All Of It dives into New York City’s vibrant cocktail culture, guided by Becky Hughes, co-author of the New York Times article “Manhattans in Brooklyn and 25 Must-Try Cocktails in New York City.” The show explores how cocktails reflect the city’s neighborhoods, history, and inventiveness, just in time for the holiday season. Listeners call in and text to share their own cocktail picks and spot recommendations across the five boroughs, providing a lively, communal map of NYC’s best drinks.
Key Discussion Points & Insights
The Story Behind the Cocktail List
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How the List Came About
- The list was conceived during casual brainstorming at The Times, quickly becoming “so obvious” as an idea for the winter season (01:22).
- Contributors pitched cocktails that personally resonated or reflected New York’s identity.
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Methodology
- Cocktails were grouped by type: martinis, easy drinkers, wild cards, new and old classics (02:32).
- Emphasis on both personal favorites and those that define a neighborhood or era.
Categories of Cocktails (03:04)
- Martinis:
- Classic, strong, cold.
- Easy Drinkers:
- Lighter, less boozy, nuanced, “goes down easier” (02:41).
- Wild Cards:
- Inventive, outside the usual categories, representing unique sides of NYC (03:06).
- New & Old Classics:
- Self-explanatory; the hard-hitters and tried-and-true drinks.
Deep Dive: The Ubiquitous Martini
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The Frozen Glass Trick
- Becky praises the move (done at Hillstone/Houston’s) of transferring martinis to a frozen glass halfway through:
“At that moment when you start getting like, ugh, I’ve been looking at this for too long... it’s like getting a fresh one. And then the excitement starts all over.” (03:50–04:12)
- Becky praises the move (done at Hillstone/Houston’s) of transferring martinis to a frozen glass halfway through:
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Perfect Martini Criteria
- Needs to be ice cold, served in a V-shaped glass, and preferably with a sidecar from the shaker.
“I don’t like a martini in a coupe. I want it in a V-shaped martini glass... And I love when there’s a sidecar with the extra from the shaker.” (04:31–05:05)
- Needs to be ice cold, served in a V-shaped glass, and preferably with a sidecar from the shaker.
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Unusual Martinis
- Instagram drinks with “frozen rosemary,” “cranberries,” and even “edible glitter” elicit both humor and horror.
- Outlandish examples:
- Cream of mushroom soup martini (garnished with a green bean).
- Caprese martini at Jackson Bond: basil, olive oil, tomato vodka, balsamic.
- Chicken soup martini with a bouillon base.
“Pickle is really common ... people are just going as savory as they possibly can.” (06:15)
Community Picks & Listener Highlights
Caller Recommendations
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Best Cosmopolitan:
- Michael recommends Michael’s Restaurant on West 55th (“the most incredible cosmopolitanfall cocktail I've had anywhere in the country,” 08:51–09:23).
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Rose Gold at Blinky’s Bar (Brooklyn):
- Dorothy Parker’s Gin, rosemary, bitters, lemon juice—“crisp and refreshing” (11:14–11:50).
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Poquito Bar (Brooklyn):
- Dre makes a “green bean spicy pickle brine” dirty martini (17:05–17:31).
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Radio Star (Brooklyn):
- Hibiscus cosmos, “froth it up nicely low on the ice” (17:57–18:13).
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Amor y Amargo (East Village):
- Known for a wide variety of bitters; “just tell them what profile you like... they’ll just make it on the spot” (18:48–19:14).
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Nonna Dora’s (Tribeca):
- Elope with Me: prosciutto-washed gin, housemade cantaloupe cordial, basil—“sweet with just a little bit of salty” (19:57–20:15).
Notable Picks from Becky & The NYT List
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Bemelmans Bar (Upper East Side):
“I do think Bemelmans is the most beautiful room that you can drink a martini in... makes you feel okay paying over $35 for a martini.” (12:05–12:31)
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King Cole Bar (St. Regis Hotel):
- Famous for the “Red Snapper” (origin story of the Bloody Mary in the US)—classic garnish is “lemon wedge. Very civilized” (20:47–21:47).
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Katz’s Deli-Inspired Martini at The View (Midtown):
- Gin fat-washed with beef tallow, aquavit (caraway/dill), pickle garnish; “really does kind of taste like pastrami and rye bread” (14:10–14:58).
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Bar Pisellino (West Village):
- Aperol Spritz on tap—super carbonated, served with great olives (23:18–23:53).
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Winnie’s (Harlem):
- S’mores Espresso Martini.
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Skinny Dennis, Brooklyn ("Willie’s Frozen Coffee”):
- Slushy, whiskey-forward, topped with coffee grounds, Greek coffee cup presentation (25:32–26:32).
Callers on Glassware
- Alan in New Canaan:
- “The most important part is actually the glass you use... My favorite current glass is the Verve. It’s a martini type shape, but on a very thick, short base.” (26:39–27:40)
Cocktail Trends & Observations
- Martini Mania:
- There’s a “martini for everything” trend—sometimes by name or glass, not always by recipe.
“The implication of the word martini is that it’s gonna be like a strong drink… and it feels festive to say the word martini.” (24:37–24:56)
- There’s a “martini for everything” trend—sometimes by name or glass, not always by recipe.
- Savory/Snack-Inspired Drinks:
- Pastrami-washed gin, prosciutto-washed gin, and even bullshot (vodka + beef bouillon): New York’s savory drink palette is broad and bold.
“I have been seeing that at a couple bars... Not just a gag!” (10:54–11:08)
- Pastrami-washed gin, prosciutto-washed gin, and even bullshot (vodka + beef bouillon): New York’s savory drink palette is broad and bold.
- Bitters and Customization:
- At cocktail bars, trust the bartender. Places like Amor y Amargo are expert-led and happy to experiment based on your flavor preferences.
Memorable Quotes & Fun Moments
- On Cocktail Trends Running Wild:
“The Martini has lost its mind.” —Becky Hughes (06:15)
- On the Magic of Bemelmans Bar:
“It’s sort of a room that feels like a martini itself.” —Becky Hughes (12:05)
- On Drink Garnishes Getting Out of Hand:
“If you want to order food, you should just do that and make that choice.” —Becky Hughes on over-the-top Bloody Marys (21:34)
- On Staying a Classicist, But Being Surprised:
“[Sour cream and onion martini] really does taste like it’s billed... I was really surprised how much I like it.” (10:29–10:41)
Noteworthy Timestamps
- The list’s origin and methodology: 01:22–03:17
- Defining martini perfection: 03:39–05:05
- Wild martini variations: 05:35–06:53
- Listener picks begin (Cosmopolitan): 08:45–09:53
- Bemelmans Bar discussion: 12:03–12:54
- Bloody Mary/Red Snapper origin: 20:47–21:18
- Bitters at Amor y Amargo: 18:48–19:45
- Aperol Spritz at Bar Pisellino: 23:13–23:53
- Skinny Dennis—Frozen Coffee: 25:32–26:32
- Closing, “Super Bueno” roasted corn sour recommendation: 28:07–28:58
Final Recommendations
For the upcoming weekend, Becky’s top pick:
- Super Bueno (East Village)
- Roasted Corn Sour — A whiskey sour infused with corn at every stage, garnished with charred corn husk powder (28:07–28:58).
The Episode’s Flavor
This episode is equal parts nostalgia, trend-spotting, and genuine reverence for the art of the drink. Becky Hughes and the listeners reveal that New York’s best cocktails are as much about the ambience, history, and quirks of city bars as the drinks themselves. Whether you’re hunting a classic martini, an esoteric savory concoction, or simply the best room to take it all in, this episode is an excellent guide to festive sipping in NYC.
“You’re paying to be in the room. Really. And you do get free snacks.” —Becky Hughes, on the high price of a Bemelmans martini (13:17)
