All Of It Podcast Summary: The Life of Groundbreaking Designer Virgil Abloh
Hosted by Alison Stewart on WNYC’s "All Of It," this episode delves into the life and legacy of Virgil Abloh, the influential artistic director of Louis Vuitton's menswear, through the lens of Robin Givhan’s biography, Make It: Crashing the Gates of Culture with Virgil Abloh. Givhan, a Pulitzer Prize-winning critic and senior critic at The Washington Post, provides an in-depth exploration of Abloh’s journey, his creative philosophy, and his impact on fashion and culture.
Introduction to the Episode and Guest
The episode opens with Alison Stewart introducing the topic—Virgil Abloh's remarkable rise in the fashion world and his untimely passing in 2021. Stewart introduces Robin Givhan, the book's author, setting the stage for a comprehensive discussion on Abloh’s life and contributions.
[00:07] Alison Stewart: "In 2021, the fashion world mourned Louis Vuitton's menswear artistic director Virgil Abloh after he died of a rare form of cancer at just 41 years old."
Virgil Abloh: Creative vs. Designer
Givhan elucidates Abloh's self-identification as a "creative" rather than solely a "designer," highlighting the breadth of his ambitions and his multifaceted approach to art and fashion.
[02:04] Robin Givhan: "For Virgil, sort of being a creative meant that you had a wide range of sort of vocabularies available to you. And he used fine arts and he used furniture making and he used DJing. All of that was part of the way that he communicated."
This perspective underscores Abloh’s versatility and his ability to integrate various forms of expression into his work, making fashion just one facet of his broader creative endeavors.
Early Awareness and Involvement with Virgil
Givhan recounts her initial encounters with Abloh, primarily through his collaboration with Kanye West and his early ventures in menswear. His participation as an assistant and colleague to West positioned him as a significant yet enigmatic figure in the fashion industry.
[03:25] Robin Givhan: "My first encounter with Virgil was as this guy, you know, sitting in on a fashion show, just kind of taking it all in."
Virgil's Upbringing and Rockford, Illinois
A significant portion of the discussion focuses on Abloh’s upbringing in Rockford, Illinois. Givhan emphasizes how his midwestern, industrial-city background and experiences with segregation played a crucial role in shaping his identity and outlook.
[06:07] Robin Givhan: "Rockford was interesting to me because... Rockford was segregated, that it struggled with segregation in its school system even in the 1990s."
Understanding his roots in a segregated environment helps contextualize Abloh’s later efforts to bridge cultural and social divides through his work in fashion.
Education and Philosophy Shaped by Catholic School
Abloh’s education at a Catholic high school is highlighted as a formative experience that honed his social skills and emotional intelligence—traits that later became instrumental in his ability to navigate and influence the fashion industry.
[09:24] Robin Givhan: "They wanted their students to have the soft skills of life... a lot of people talked about Virgil's incredible emotional IQ and his ability to engage with people."
These skills not only made him likable but also fostered collaborative environments wherever he worked, a key aspect of his success.
Virgil's Diverse Background: Sports and Collaboration
Givhan touches upon Abloh’s involvement in soccer, illustrating his understanding of teamwork and collaboration—principles that translated seamlessly into his professional life.
[13:24] Robin Givhan: "It underscored that he understood the importance of collaboration, that being a part of the team was in some ways as satisfying, if not more satisfying than being necessarily the star."
Abloh's ability to build and lead creative communities is attributed to these early experiences in team sports.
Entry into Fashion: Pyrex Vision and Early Ventures
Abloh’s foray into fashion began with experimental projects like Pyrex Vision, where he ingeniously repurposed Ralph Lauren shirts by adding his own twist, thereby demonstrating his knack for merging high fashion with streetwear.
[16:38] Alison Stewart: "Virgil Abloh had an interesting thing he called the 3% rule. Would you explain that to us?"
[16:54] Robin Givhan: "Virgil would often say that if you changed a pre-existing object by 3%, you had in fact created something new."
This philosophy not only fueled his creative process but also positioned him as a pioneer in the evolving landscape of contemporary fashion.
Fashion Industry Dynamics and Virgil's Influence
Givhan explores the intersection of sports, hip-hop, and fashion, illustrating how figures like Abloh capitalized on these cultural overlaps to redefine menswear. The collaboration between athletes and fashion brands opened new avenues for cultural expression and diversity in fashion.
[16:54] Robin Givhan: "You have all of a sudden these mostly black players who become these fashion icons... and you have a black man stand at the top of, you know, the fashion world and sort of dictate trends."
Abloh’s role in this dynamic showcases his ability to harness cultural shifts and integrate them into mainstream fashion narratives.
Virgil's 3% Rule and Creativity
The 3% rule, as described by Abloh, emphasizes minimal yet impactful modifications to existing designs, fostering an environment of creativity that encourages reimagining established norms.
[19:21] Robin Givhan: "Virgil would often say that if you changed a pre-existing object by 3%, you had in fact created something new."
This rule became a cornerstone of his approach, allowing him to innovate while respecting the foundations of established brands and designs.
Appointment at Louis Vuitton: Cultural Strategy
Abloh’s appointment as the artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear is analyzed as a strategic move by the brand to align itself with contemporary culture and a younger, more diverse audience. His successful collaborations, particularly with Nike, demonstrated his ability to elevate brand presence through cultural resonance.
[21:34] Robin Givhan: "Louis Vuitton... wanted to get the attention of a growing, increasingly diverse customer base, a younger customer base. It looked to culture, people who were exciting the culture for its next designer."
His leadership at Louis Vuitton symbolizes the integration of high fashion with streetwear and popular culture, reinforcing his status as a cultural influencer.
Conclusion: Virgil Abloh's Legacy
The episode concludes by reflecting on Abloh’s enduring impact on fashion and culture. Through Givhan's biography, listeners gain a comprehensive understanding of how Abloh's innovative spirit, cultural insight, and collaborative ethos transformed the fashion industry.
[23:08] Robert Givhan: "The book is really fascinating. It's called Make It: Crashing the Gates of Culture with Virgil Abloh."
Robin Givhan's work serves as a testament to Abloh’s legacy, encapsulating his contributions and the cultural shifts he inspired.
Final Thoughts
This episode of "All Of It" offers a thorough and engaging exploration of Virgil Abloh's life, motivations, and the cultural currents he navigated and influenced. Through insightful discussions and notable quotes from Robin Givhan, listeners gain a deeper appreciation of Abloh's role in shaping modern fashion and his broader cultural significance.