All Of It: The Most Influential Cookbooks

Podcast Episode: "The Most Influential Cookbooks"
Host: Alison Stewart
Guest: Kurt Soller, Editor at Large, TEA, The New York Times Style Magazine
Release Date: December 2, 2024

Introduction

In this episode of All Of It, host Alison Stewart delves into the world of culinary literature with a focus on the "25 Most Influential Cookbooks" from the past century. Joined by Kurt Soller, Editor at Large of TEA, The New York Times Style Magazine, the discussion explores how these cookbooks have shaped cooking practices, influenced food culture, and connected communities through shared culinary experiences.

The Genesis of the List

Alison Stewart opens the conversation by introducing the theme centered around a recently published list by TEA, highlighting the significance of influential cookbooks over the last 100 years. Kurt Soller explains the meticulous process behind curating the list:

"This is part of our T25 series where we collect six people, we have them suggest some books, they start with longer lists and then they sort of duke it out over a three or four-hour Zoom." [02:28]

He emphasizes the diversity of perspectives that contributed to the selection, ensuring a comprehensive representation of culinary literature.

Spotlight on Iconic Cookbooks

Joy of Cooking by Irma S. Rombauer

One of the earliest and most enduring entries discussed is Joy of Cooking, authored by Irma S. Rombauer. Kurt reflects on its foundational role in American kitchens:

"The Joy of Cooking was sort of the starter book... it’s updated nine times over the years, adapting as kitchen culture changes." [04:32]

He notes the book's practical approach, equipping home cooks with essential skills and recipes that have transcended generations.

Taste of Country Cooking by Edna Lewis

Edna Lewis's Taste of Country Cooking is celebrated for its authentic portrayal of Southern cuisine. Kurt highlights its cultural significance:

"It took specialized community recipes and exposed them to a broader audience... Edna Lewis was on a stamp, codifying her cuisine as an integral part of American culinary heritage." [08:21]

The cookbook not only shares recipes but also weaves in Lewis's personal narratives, offering a glimpse into the traditions and stories behind each dish.

Mastering the Art of French Cooking by Julia Child

No discussion on influential cookbooks would be complete without mentioning Julia Child. Kurt underscores her pivotal role in demystifying French cuisine for Americans:

"Mastering the Art of French Cooking is like 201, 301, or 401 of cooking books after Joy of Cooking... she was the original food influencer." [09:12]

He praises Child's engaging writing style and her ability to make complex techniques accessible to home cooks.

Salt Fat Acid Heat by Samin Nosrat

Samin Nosrat's Salt Fat Acid Heat receives particular acclaim for its educational approach to cooking:

"It's the science of cooking... it took me from being a good cook to being an excellent cook." [11:00]

Listeners appreciate how Nosrat breaks down the fundamental elements of flavor, empowering them to experiment and elevate their culinary skills.

Listener Contributions

Throughout the episode, listeners share their cherished cookbooks, adding personal anecdotes and diverse perspectives to the discussion.

• Susan from New Jersey reminisces about her family's Thousand Recipe Chinese Cookbook:

  "When my dad passed away, I kept the original with all of his notes, and my brother and I both use it extensively to this day." [06:22]

• Beth from Brooklyn recommends Judith Jones's biography, The Editor, highlighting her influence in bringing seminal cookbooks to the public:

  "Judith Jones was responsible for bringing [Julia Child and Edna Lewis] to life... it's a really great read." [15:08]

• Jack from Astoria shares his appreciation for Mark Bittman's How to Cook Everything:

  "It's 900 pages... it just shows you how to cook everything five different ways." [19:09]

These contributions illustrate the profound personal connections individuals have with cookbooks, often linking them to cherished memories and culinary growth.

The Evolution of Cookbooks

Kurt Soller discusses how cookbooks have evolved from mere recipe collections to cultural artifacts that reflect societal changes and culinary trends.

"Cookbooks are one of those things that people have really strong feelings about... they really become this sort of photo album of a person in the kitchen." [09:46]

He elaborates on how modern cookbooks, like those from NOMA, push the boundaries of flavor and technique, while classic works lay the groundwork for contemporary culinary exploration.

Debates and Discussions

The episode also touches upon debates within the culinary community, such as the authenticity and appropriation of cuisines:

"There's always some discussion about whose food belongs to who... if you've dedicated yourself to being a student of someone else's food... then why not." [17:23]

This conversation underscores the importance of respect and dedication in the global exchange of culinary traditions.

Highlighting Lesser-Known Gems

Kurt introduces lesser-known yet influential cookbooks that have shaped specific niches within the culinary world:

• NOMA Guide to Fermentation: Showcased for its innovative approach to fermenting techniques.
• How to Cook a Wolf by M.F.K. Fisher: Celebrated for its poetic food writing and philosophy.
• Jubilee by Tanya Tipton-Martin: Recognized for its exploration of Black foodways and comforting recipes.

These selections demonstrate the breadth of what defines an influential cookbook, encompassing not only recipes but also cultural narratives and culinary philosophies.

Conclusion

As the episode draws to a close, Kurt Soller reflects on the enduring impact of cookbooks:

"Cookbooks are something you can go to again and again and still find new things and dishes you've cooked before." [24:00]

Alison Stewart thanks Kurt and the listeners for their passionate contributions, highlighting how cookbooks serve as both practical guides and vessels of cultural heritage. The episode encapsulates the profound relationship between cookbooks and the communities that embrace them, celebrating their role in shaping culinary landscapes across generations.

Notable Quotes with Timestamps

• "The Joy of Cooking was sort of the starter book..." — Kurt Soller [02:08]
• "It took specialized community recipes and exposed them to a broader audience..." — Kurt Soller [08:21]
• "Mastering the Art of French Cooking is like 201, 301, or 401 of cooking books after Joy of Cooking..." — Kurt Soller [09:12]
• "It's the science of cooking... it took me from being a good cook to being an excellent cook." — Beth [11:00]
• "There's always some discussion about whose food belongs to who..." — Kurt Soller [17:23]
• "Cookbooks are something you can go to again and again and still find new things and dishes you've cooked before." — Kurt Soller [24:00]

This episode of All Of It not only celebrates the cookbooks that have defined culinary practices but also underscores the personal connections and cultural significance embedded within these treasured volumes. Whether you’re a seasoned chef or a home cook, the insights shared by Kurt Soller and the enthusiastic contributions from listeners offer a rich exploration of the enduring legacy of cookbooks in our lives.