Vintage Finds For 'No Buy January' - All Of It with Alison Stewart

Summary

All Of It: Episode Summary – "Vintage Finds For 'No Buy January'"

Host: Alison Stewart
Guest: Emily Stokel, Host and Creator of the Pre Loved Podcast
Release Date: January 15, 2025
Duration: Approximately 28 minutes

Introduction

In the January 15, 2025 episode of All Of It, host Alison Stewart delves into the vibrant world of vintage and secondhand shopping. The episode, titled “Vintage Finds For 'No Buy January'," explores the resurgence of thrifting, its cultural significance, and offers practical tips for enthusiasts. Alison is joined by Emily Stokel, the creator of the Pre Loved podcast, who provides expert insights into the evolving landscape of secondhand fashion.

Thrifting vs. Vintage: Understanding the Differences

[02:03] Alison Stewart:
Alison opens the conversation by inviting listeners to share their favorite vintage finds and clarifies the distinctions between thrifting, secondhand, and vintage shopping.

[02:40] Emily Stokel:
Emily explains, “Listeners might think it’s kind of funny that I use the word pre loved, but I’m really just about all things being reused. That’s what excites me the most about this is just the sustainability that comes when we reuse something that belonged to someone else before.” She delineates thrifting as seeking bargains in charity shops and secondhand stores, while vintage refers to items typically 20 years or older, a shift from the traditional 30-year benchmark. “Vintage items are usually more curated, priced a little bit higher, they’re usually more high quality as, because, you know, they don’t make them like they used to,” Emily adds ([02:40]).

The Rise of Thrifting: Trends and Generational Shifts

[04:05] Alison Stewart:
Alison notes the growing obsession with thrifting, especially among younger generations, and asks Emily when she first noticed thrifting becoming mainstream.

[04:20] Emily Stokel:
Emily contextualizes the rise of thrifting, stating, “Throughout history we usually see a boom in secondhand or reuse… during periods of economic recession.” She highlights key moments, such as the 2008 economic downturn and the 2020 pandemic, which significantly boosted the popularity of secondhand shopping. “[...] More and more people are secondhand shopping becoming comfortable with that, which I love to see. But actually the market shows that there’s still a huge amount of room for more people to take on secondhand shopping,” she observes ([04:20]).

Influence of Younger Generations

[05:34] Alison Stewart:
Alison references a Financial Times report on how young people, particularly Gen Z and Gen Alpha, are driving vintage trends with a focus on Y2K fashion.

[06:30] Emily Stokel:
Emily agrees, noting, “I think we’re seeing that now with Gen Z and Gen Alpha becoming really excited about Y2K.” She connects this enthusiasm to a nostalgic yearning for the pre-social media era, exemplified by popular culture icons from the 2000s. “The fact that they have now decided to re-release them 20 years later really does show the impact of that nostalgia,” she concludes ([06:30]).

Listener Stories: Celebrating Personal Vintage Finds

Throughout the episode, several listeners call in to share their vintage treasures and experiences:

Carrie from Rutherford, NJ ([08:07]):
Highlights her friend’s business, Preservation Society, and their shared passion for estate sales and vintage finds.
Maria from Newton, NJ ([09:04]):
Discusses renovating a 1935 house with period-specific furnishings and the joy of owning unique vintage items like hand-crocheted towels.
Julie from the Lower East Side ([13:47]):
Recommends local vintage stores such as David Owens Vintage and East Village Vintage Collective, emphasizing quality finds like wool coats.
Teresa from Downtown Manhattan ([15:10]):
Shares her eight-year commitment to buying exclusively secondhand clothing, appreciating the craftsmanship and unique styles unavailable in modern retail.
Arlene from Hell's Kitchen ([23:54]):
Talks about scoring high-quality items like a cashmere coat and a custom-made Italian mirror at significant discounts, exemplifying the thrill of the hunt.
Solange ([25:02]):
Encourages listeners to seek vintage items within their families, cherishing pieces that hold personal and historical significance.

Navigating the Vintage Market: Authentication and Sustainability

[12:22] Emily Stokel:
Emily addresses the complexities of authentication in the secondhand market, especially concerning designer labels. She warns listeners to be vigilant about counterfeit items and emphasizes the importance of platforms offering authenticity guarantees. “Authentication has been a hot topic… more about what it means for something to be legally defined as authentic or as vintage,” she explains ([12:22]).

[26:31] Emily Stokel:
On the topic of sustainability, Emily critiques major brands’ recycling programs, cautioning listeners about potential greenwashing. She advises, “Does the program operate on some sort of trading credit? … Is the brand transparent about what they’re doing with the clothes that you give back to them?” Emily urges consumers to scrutinize these initiatives to ensure they genuinely contribute to reducing overproduction and environmental impact ([26:31]).

Tips for Successful Thrifting and Vintage Shopping

Thrifting Strategies:

Embrace the Hunt:
Emily encourages enthusiasts to enjoy the unpredictability of thrifting: “We love digging through things. That’s part of the joy… not knowing what you’re going to come across and going on that hunt” ([20:14]).
Utilize Online Tools:
She recommends platforms like GEM and browser plugins like Benny to streamline the search process, making secondhand shopping more accessible and efficient ([16:30]).

Quality and Fit Considerations:

Fiber Content:
Prioritize natural fibers such as cotton, wool, and linen for comfort and durability: “I’m looking for natural fibers… they’re more breathable… they tend to be more high quality” ([21:39]).
Examine Craftsmanship:
Assess garment quality by inspecting seams, fabric consistency, and presence of original tags, especially for vintage authenticity ([21:39]).
Fit Optimization:
Due to varying sizing standards over the years, Emily advises measuring favorite garments and comparing them with thrifted items to ensure proper fit ([22:45]).

Conclusion

Alison Stewart wraps up the episode by reiterating the importance of community in the thrifting and vintage scene. She underscores the sustainability benefits and personal satisfaction that comes from embracing secondhand shopping. Emily Stokel’s insights provide listeners with a comprehensive understanding of vintage trends, ethical considerations, and practical tips to enhance their thrifting experiences.

Notable Quote:

Emily Stokel ([26:31]):
“It modifies how people consume, making it something that you don’t ever want to go back.”

Final Thoughts

This episode of All Of It serves as both an informative guide and an inspiring narrative for anyone interested in vintage fashion and sustainable consumption. Through expert interviews and heartfelt listener stories, Alison Stewart and Emily Stokel illuminate the enduring allure of vintage finds and the cultural shifts driving their resurgence.

To stay updated with future episodes, subscribe to All Of It on WNYC and follow their social media channels.

Transcript

Alison Stewart (0:00)

All of it is supported by Progressive Insurance. You chose to hit play on this podcast today. Smart Choice make another smart choice with Auto Quote Explorer to compare rates for multiple car insurance companies all at once. Try it@progressive.com Progressive Casualty Insurance Company and affiliates not available in all states or situations. Prices vary based on how you buy.

Emily Stokel (0:25)

Listener Supported WNYC Studios.

Alison Stewart (0:37)

This is all of It. I'm Alison Stewart live from the WNYC Studios in soho. Thank you for sharing part of your day with us. I'm really grateful you are here. On today's show, we'll learn about the new HBO docu series An Update on Our Family, which looks at the popular and sometimes disturbing world of family vloggers. And we will be treated to a live performance from jazz pianist Donald Vega, whose album As I Travel is up for a Grammy. That's the plan. So let's get this started with Vintage Under Consumption Core was the name given to people who made good with what they have. Rather than spend money, they might trade items with friends or spend time looking for goods in thrift stores. Some people are looking for good prices, others are thrifting because it's good for the environment. Many people do it, though, for the pure thrill of a good vintage. Fine, but the thrifting universe has undergone major changes in the past few years. Emily Stokel is a writer and the host of the Pre Loved podcast, which is a weekly show that features designers and business owners to talk about vintage and secondhand clothing. She's joining us now to talk about the state of thrifting as well as how to thrift efficiently and ethically.

Emily Stokel (2:00)

Hi Emily, hi, thanks so much for having me.

Alison Stewart (2:03)

Listeners, we want to hear about your favorite vintage finds. What treasures have you unearthed? What do you like about vintage clothing? Maybe there's a vintage or thrift store you want to shout out. Give us a call. 2124-3396-9221-2433 wnyc. You can hit us up on social media as well. Or feel free to share a photo on X or Instagram or just give us a call. 212-433-9692. I ask you this every year, but can you tell us a difference or what your difference is when you talk about thrifting, secondhand and vintage?

Emily Stokel (2:40)

Yeah, absolutely. So listeners might think it's kind of funny that I use the word pre loved, but I'm really just about all things being reused. That's what excites me the most about this is just the sustainability that comes when we Reuse something that belonged to someone else before. But there is a difference within the world of second hand between thrifting and vintage. Thrifting is maybe when you go to a charity shop, you're looking for a bargain. This is when you're buying secondhand goods that have usually been donated to the shop by other members of your community. Whereas vintage is usually defined by its age. So when I first got into vintage Several years ago, 30 years or older was typically the age benchmark that we were taught to think of as vintage. But like many things, it's kind of sped up in recent years and it's, it's shifted much closer to 20 years or older. And I get it, I'm a millennial. I'm in my mid-30s, so it's been weird growing older and seeing styles that I remember from being a preteen and a teenager being called vintage. If you take the 20 year rule, that means 2004 is vintage. But that is really the difference is the consideration of the age. And typically vintage items are a little bit more curated, priced a little bit higher. They're usually more high quality as, because, you know, they don't make them like they used to.