Podcast Summary: "What's the Best Soup? (Small Stakes, Big Opinions)"

Podcast: All Of It
Host: Alison Stewart (WNYC)
Guest: Melissa Clark (New York Times food reporter and columnist)
Date: January 29, 2026

Overview

In this lively and heartwarming episode of All Of It’s “Small Stakes, Big Opinions” series, host Alison Stewart welcomes New York Times food columnist Melissa Clark to debate a winter survival essential: soup. Together with passionate callers and texters from across New York, they sift through personal and professional soup favorites, recipe secrets, and the ever-present question: what makes soup, soup?

The conversation roams from viral lentil recipes to family heirlooms lost and found, cultural classics, and tips for improvising with what’s on hand. The episode is a loving celebration of one of the most universal comfort foods, packed with cooking tips, cultural insight, and listener connection.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. The Most Popular Soup: Melissa Clark’s Red Lentil Soup

• Origin Story & Popularity

  • Melissa’s red lentil soup is the most highly rated recipe on NYT Cooking, with over 34,000 ratings.
  • "It's so funny because it's such a simple recipe, which I think is why it resonates with people... There's not a lot of chopping... so this just ticks all the boxes for what you want." (Melissa Clark, 01:42)
  • The recipe is inspired by Melissa tasting a Turkish lentil soup at cookbook author Anya von Bremzen’s home.

• Why It Defies Lentil Soup Expectations

  • Unlike traditional brown or black lentil soups, it’s "lighter, brothier, and brightened with lemon" (Melissa Clark, 03:01).

2. Fast, Flavorful Weeknight Soups

• Miso Soup Trick
  • For a quick soup, Melissa recommends starting with miso paste as a flavorful base.
  • "Just have some miso in your fridge. It is instant freedom for soups all week long." (Melissa Clark, 04:31)
  • Suggested ingredients: baby spinach, eggs, mushrooms, tofu, coleslaw mix.

3. Transforming Favorite Dishes into Soups

• Melissa’s “Three Beloved Dishes in Soup Form” Article

  • Hummus, Bean Salad, Pasta Pesto—all transformed into soups.
  • The rise of lasagna soups on social media inspired Melissa; she finds pesto-based soups more “natural” and appealing.
  • "I took all those influences and just turned it into a soup. I added some orzo... it goes fast—after work friendly." (Melissa Clark, 05:09)

• Soup Pasta Choices

  • Orzo is favored for soups as it stays on the spoon, thickens the broth, and cooks quickly.
  • "A thing about orzo... is because they're small, they shed a lot of the starch into the broth and will actually thicken a soup broth." (Melissa Clark, 06:19)

4. Listener Favorites & Cultural Highlights

• Spinach Artichoke Chicken Soup (Tracy, 07:43)
  • Tastes like spinach artichoke dip as soup. Melissa praises the dish for being creamy yet lighter than the original dip.
• Creamy Coconut Chickpea Stew (Annie, 08:14 Text)
  • A vegetarian favorite.
• Portuguese Sausage, Kale, Potato Soup (08:14 Text)
  • Likely refers to "Caldo Verde" with linguisa sausage.
• Sancocho (Miguel, 08:41)
  • Dominican classic: "very hearty soup with every single ingredient you can find"—even served to Queen Elizabeth!
• Matzo Ball Soup (13:27 Text)
  • Emphasis on dill and whole chicken.
• African Sweet Potato-Carrot-Chickpea Soup with Peanut Butter and Coconut Milk (13:24 Text)
  • Listener claims, "It's so good it makes people cry."
• Slovak Sauerkraut Soup (17:08 Text)
  • Renowned as a hangover and cabin fever cure.

5. Soup Science and Technique

• Broth, Stock, and Bone Broth Demystified

  • Melissa’s definitions:
    • Broth & Stock: Interchangeable; essentially flavored liquid from simmered aromatics, vegetables, meat, or bones.
    • Bone Broth: A subset, simmered long with bones and some acid (vinegar/wine) to dissolve collagen for a thicker, richer result.
    • "From my perspective, broth and stock are the same thing... Bone broth is a specific subcategory." (Melissa Clark, 09:22)

• Red Lentils vs. Red Split Peas

  • Clarified as split, peeled lentils.
  • "A red lentil is always split, it's always peeled... I think it might be called a split red pea." (Melissa Clark, 11:14)

6. Kitchen Efficiency: The Clean-Out-the-Fridge Soup

• Melissa’s strategy involves leeks, root vegetables, herbs, and any produce on hand.
• Final flavor boost: a homemade garlic-cumin-chili oil drizzled on top.
• "I will never make it again. It's one of those soups—you make it once. That's it. It can never be replicated." (Melissa Clark, 16:27)

7. The Great Chili Debate: Soup or No?

• "That's like, is a hot dog a sandwich? Is brownie a cookie? I think chili is inherently a stew... But I know there are people out there who would disagree." (Melissa Clark, 16:42)

8. Popular NYT Recipe: Lemony White Bean Soup with Turkey and Greens

• Surprising popularity—over 20,000 ratings.
• Flexible with greens/beans and very hearty.
• "It's so good, but I didn't think it would hit the way it has... It's just really easy." (Melissa Clark, 17:35)

9. Culinary Nostalgia & Recipe Troubleshooting

• Caller Susan’s search for her mother’s non-creamed potato-tomato soup
  • Melissa’s advice: try more water, fewer tomatoes, and more salt ("Maybe salt is the missing thing here." (Melissa Clark, 20:01)).
  • Melissa is inspired to attempt the soup herself:
    • “Watch the New York Times, maybe we'll be able to publish it. And what's your mom's name? I'll name it after her.” (Melissa Clark, 20:34)

10. Essential Winter Soup for the Week

• Melissa’s top pick for freezing days: Kimchi Jjigae (Korean kimchi stew), especially with pork ribs or tofu.
• "I'm craving something with a lot of spice right now... The softness of the kimchi and cabbage adds texture, and you've got that lovely spicy flavor... I love it served over rice." (Melissa Clark, 21:21)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On the ease and appeal of red lentil soup:
  "It's really easy to make and it has a lot of flavor for very little effort." (Melissa Clark, 01:42)

• On improvisational cooking:
  "Clean the fridge soup... I'll never make it again. It's one of those soups—you make it once. That's it. It can never be replicated." (Melissa Clark, 16:27)

• On the philosophical side of soup categories:
  "Is chili a soup? That's like, is a hot dog a sandwich?... My answer would be no, but I know there are people out there who would disagree with me, and that's fine, too." (Melissa Clark, 16:42)

• Listener Annie (text):
  "Creamy coconut chickpea stew. Yum." (08:14)
  "African sweet potato carrot chickpea soup with peanut butter and coconut milk. It's so good it makes people cry." (13:24)

• On soup flexibility and sharing recipes:
  "You make it brothy. You make it some warming for winter." (Melissa Clark, 07:56)

• On contributing to culinary legacies:
  "Watch the New York Times, maybe we'll be able to publish it. And what's your mom's name? I'll name it after her." (Melissa Clark, 20:34)

Important Timestamps

• 00:29 – 03:30: Intro & Red Lentil Soup origin and appeal
• 03:43 – 04:31: Quick weeknight miso soup guidance
• 04:36 – 07:09: Transforming beloved dishes into soup; soup pasta logic
• 07:34 – 08:58: Caller and listener favorites, cultural soups
• 09:22 – 11:14: Broth, stock, bone broth distinctions; lentil and pea clarification
• 13:24 – 16:27: “Clean out the fridge” soups and improvisation
• 16:30 – 16:46: The “is chili a soup” debate
• 17:08 – 18:33: Lemony white bean soup discussion
• 18:40 – 20:39: Caller tries to recapture a family soup; Melissa offers advice and inspiration
• 21:03 – 22:31: Best soup for a cold week—kimchi jjigae

Conclusion

This episode is a love letter to soup and to the inventive cooks who make it. Listeners gain practical tips, a sense of community, and the encouragement to experiment—whether clearing out the fridge or reimagining a favorite dish in steaming, soothing form. If you listen, expect to laugh, reminisce, and definitely crave a big bowl of something warm.