Podcast Summary: All Of It – "Yes, Tinned Fish is Everywhere"

Introduction

In the February 25, 2025 episode of All Of It hosted by Alison Stewart on WNYC, the focus centers on the versatile world of tinned fish. This episode explores the cultural significance, culinary applications, and nutritional benefits of tinned seafood, featuring an in-depth conversation with Becca Milstein, co-founder of Fishwife Tinned Seafood Company and author of the newly released Fish Wife's Cookbook: Delightful Tinned Fish Recipes for Every Occasion.

Exploring the Term "Fish Wife"

The episode opens with Alison Stewart introducing Becca Milstein, delving into the etymology and connotations of the term "fish wife." Becca explains:

"The term fish wife dates back to the 15th century in Europe... it became sort of this gendered insult for women who were loud, bossy, brash and foul-mouthed." [02:10]

She shares her personal connection to the term, embracing its historically negative implications to empower her brand:

"When I learned about the Term, it really resonated so much with me as you know, personally, a very loud, foul-mouthed woman who, you know, sells a lot of fish these days." [02:25]

Alison responds positively, highlighting the reclamation of the term:

"I can't think of such a bad thing being a loud, bossy, foul-mouthed woman. What's the problem?" [03:07]

Becca appreciates this perspective, reinforcing the brand's identity.

Building Culinary Foundations

Moving into the cookbook's structure, Alison references a chapter titled "Building Blocks," which outlines foundational recipes essential for creating diverse tinned fish dishes. Becca elaborates on these basics:

"We identified these as very simple recipes that we just use time and time again in the cookbook... aioli, olive oil fried bread, labneh, pickled onions, steamed rice, a simple green salad, and perfectly jammy eggs." [03:27]

These building blocks serve as versatile bases, allowing for creative and effortless meal preparations.

Global Inspirations and Culinary Traditions

Becca shares her international influences, particularly her time in Granada, Spain, where she observed the elegant simplicity of tapas featuring tinned fish like sardines and anchovies:

"The tradition that I saw in Spain and then in Portugal as well, of pairing super simple, really, really high ingredient, high-quality ingredients together, that was really what excited me about tin fish." [04:39]

She notes the growing popularity of such dishes in the United States, mirroring the minimalist yet flavorful approach she admired abroad.

Listener Engagement and Recipe Demonstrations

Throughout the episode, Alison invites listeners to share their favorite tinned fish recipes and questions for Becca. Several listeners connect through calls and texts, sharing their culinary experiences and apprehensions:

• Cliff from Manhattan expresses concerns about the aesthetics of eating sardines with visible bones and skin. Becca suggests mashing them into dishes like avocado and sardine toast to enhance palatability:

  "Avocado and sardine toast... creamy and fatty, but also zesty and salty atop crunchy olive oil fried toast." [08:00]

• Julie from Jersey City recounts her delightful experience with potted mackerel at a London airport and seeks guidance on recreating it at home. Becca offers a similar recipe from her cookbook:

  "Spiced mackerel pate with extra virgin olive oil, shallots, sea salt, garlic paprika, slow smoked mackerel with chili flakes, Calabrian chili paste, and sherry vinegar served on crusty sourdough bread." [13:57]

Cooking Tips for Beginners

Becca emphasizes the convenience and health benefits of using tinned fish, addressing common concerns about preparation and cleanup:

"You're going to cut 30 to 45 minutes of cooking and clean time out of your meal prep. Tinned fish is completely ready to eat, seasoned, and delicious." [09:20]

She encourages experimenting with simple bases and complements to integrate tinned fish seamlessly into everyday meals.

Nutritional Insights

Addressing the nutritional value, Becca highlights the high protein and calcium content of tinned fish, as well as their rich omega-3 fatty acids:

"One tin of sardines has as much calcium as a full glass of milk... seafood is the best source of omega 3s... tinned fish is just as nutritious as fresh fish." [22:13]

This makes tinned fish an excellent addition to a healthy diet, offering substantial health benefits with minimal preparation.

Listener Stories and Cultural Anecdotes

Rob from Valencia shares a nostalgic story about European influences on tinned fish consumption:

"In Holland, a fishwife was known for being the loudest at the market... In a Brooklyn diner, ordering a Greek salad led to an overload of anchovies, reflecting European generosity." [18:27]

Becca connects these stories to classic recipes like pasta con le sard and pasta con sarde, reinforcing the cultural depth of tinned fish dishes.

Final Tips and Brand Highlights

Alison poses practical questions about storage and expiration, to which Becca advises:

"Take the fish out of the tin, store it in Tupperware, and keep it for three to five days... most tinned fish have a shelf life of five to seven years, except salt-cured anchovies which last about 12 months and should be refrigerated." [15:23]

She also showcases the artistic packaging designed by illustrator Danny Danbo Miller, emphasizing the blend of functionality and aesthetics in Fishwife's branding.

Conclusion

The episode wraps up with Becca Milstein reiterating the versatility and appeal of tinned fish, inviting listeners to explore her cookbook and integrate tinned seafood into their culinary repertoire. Alison Stewart thanks Becca for her insights, concluding a session rich with cultural context, practical advice, and inspiring recipes.

Notable Quotes

• Becca Milstein on the term "fish wife":

  "When I learned about the Term, it really resonated so much with me as you know, personally, a very loud, foul mouthed woman who, you know, sells a lot of fish these days." [02:25]

• Becca Milstein on nutritional benefits:

  "One tin of sardines has as much calcium as a full glass of milk... tinned fish is just as nutritious as fresh fish." [22:13]

• Becca Milstein on cooking simplicity:

  "Tinned fish is completely ready to eat, seasoned, and delicious." [09:20]

Final Thoughts

This episode of All Of It masterfully blends cultural exploration with practical culinary guidance, shedding light on the often-overlooked versatility of tinned fish. Through engaging dialogue and listener participation, Alison Stewart and Becca Milstein highlight how tinned seafood can be both a pantry staple and a gourmet ingredient, enriching modern diets with minimal effort and maximum flavor.