Yes, Tinned Fish is Everywhere

Summary

Podcast Summary: All Of It – "Yes, Tinned Fish is Everywhere"

Introduction

In the February 25, 2025 episode of All Of It hosted by Alison Stewart on WNYC, the focus centers on the versatile world of tinned fish. This episode explores the cultural significance, culinary applications, and nutritional benefits of tinned seafood, featuring an in-depth conversation with Becca Milstein, co-founder of Fishwife Tinned Seafood Company and author of the newly released Fish Wife's Cookbook: Delightful Tinned Fish Recipes for Every Occasion.

Exploring the Term "Fish Wife"

The episode opens with Alison Stewart introducing Becca Milstein, delving into the etymology and connotations of the term "fish wife." Becca explains:

"The term fish wife dates back to the 15th century in Europe... it became sort of this gendered insult for women who were loud, bossy, brash and foul-mouthed." [02:10]

She shares her personal connection to the term, embracing its historically negative implications to empower her brand:

"When I learned about the Term, it really resonated so much with me as you know, personally, a very loud, foul-mouthed woman who, you know, sells a lot of fish these days." [02:25]

Alison responds positively, highlighting the reclamation of the term:

"I can't think of such a bad thing being a loud, bossy, foul-mouthed woman. What's the problem?" [03:07]

Becca appreciates this perspective, reinforcing the brand's identity.

Building Culinary Foundations

Moving into the cookbook's structure, Alison references a chapter titled "Building Blocks," which outlines foundational recipes essential for creating diverse tinned fish dishes. Becca elaborates on these basics:

"We identified these as very simple recipes that we just use time and time again in the cookbook... aioli, olive oil fried bread, labneh, pickled onions, steamed rice, a simple green salad, and perfectly jammy eggs." [03:27]

These building blocks serve as versatile bases, allowing for creative and effortless meal preparations.

Global Inspirations and Culinary Traditions

Becca shares her international influences, particularly her time in Granada, Spain, where she observed the elegant simplicity of tapas featuring tinned fish like sardines and anchovies:

"The tradition that I saw in Spain and then in Portugal as well, of pairing super simple, really, really high ingredient, high-quality ingredients together, that was really what excited me about tin fish." [04:39]

She notes the growing popularity of such dishes in the United States, mirroring the minimalist yet flavorful approach she admired abroad.

Listener Engagement and Recipe Demonstrations

Throughout the episode, Alison invites listeners to share their favorite tinned fish recipes and questions for Becca. Several listeners connect through calls and texts, sharing their culinary experiences and apprehensions:

• Cliff from Manhattan expresses concerns about the aesthetics of eating sardines with visible bones and skin. Becca suggests mashing them into dishes like avocado and sardine toast to enhance palatability:

  "Avocado and sardine toast... creamy and fatty, but also zesty and salty atop crunchy olive oil fried toast." [08:00]

• Julie from Jersey City recounts her delightful experience with potted mackerel at a London airport and seeks guidance on recreating it at home. Becca offers a similar recipe from her cookbook:

  "Spiced mackerel pate with extra virgin olive oil, shallots, sea salt, garlic paprika, slow smoked mackerel with chili flakes, Calabrian chili paste, and sherry vinegar served on crusty sourdough bread." [13:57]

Cooking Tips for Beginners

Becca emphasizes the convenience and health benefits of using tinned fish, addressing common concerns about preparation and cleanup:

"You're going to cut 30 to 45 minutes of cooking and clean time out of your meal prep. Tinned fish is completely ready to eat, seasoned, and delicious." [09:20]

She encourages experimenting with simple bases and complements to integrate tinned fish seamlessly into everyday meals.

Nutritional Insights

Addressing the nutritional value, Becca highlights the high protein and calcium content of tinned fish, as well as their rich omega-3 fatty acids:

"One tin of sardines has as much calcium as a full glass of milk... seafood is the best source of omega 3s... tinned fish is just as nutritious as fresh fish." [22:13]

This makes tinned fish an excellent addition to a healthy diet, offering substantial health benefits with minimal preparation.

Listener Stories and Cultural Anecdotes

Rob from Valencia shares a nostalgic story about European influences on tinned fish consumption:

"In Holland, a fishwife was known for being the loudest at the market... In a Brooklyn diner, ordering a Greek salad led to an overload of anchovies, reflecting European generosity." [18:27]

Becca connects these stories to classic recipes like pasta con le sard and pasta con sarde, reinforcing the cultural depth of tinned fish dishes.

Final Tips and Brand Highlights

Alison poses practical questions about storage and expiration, to which Becca advises:

"Take the fish out of the tin, store it in Tupperware, and keep it for three to five days... most tinned fish have a shelf life of five to seven years, except salt-cured anchovies which last about 12 months and should be refrigerated." [15:23]

She also showcases the artistic packaging designed by illustrator Danny Danbo Miller, emphasizing the blend of functionality and aesthetics in Fishwife's branding.

Conclusion

The episode wraps up with Becca Milstein reiterating the versatility and appeal of tinned fish, inviting listeners to explore her cookbook and integrate tinned seafood into their culinary repertoire. Alison Stewart thanks Becca for her insights, concluding a session rich with cultural context, practical advice, and inspiring recipes.

Notable Quotes

• Becca Milstein on the term "fish wife":

  "When I learned about the Term, it really resonated so much with me as you know, personally, a very loud, foul mouthed woman who, you know, sells a lot of fish these days." [02:25]

• Becca Milstein on nutritional benefits:

  "One tin of sardines has as much calcium as a full glass of milk... tinned fish is just as nutritious as fresh fish." [22:13]

• Becca Milstein on cooking simplicity:

  "Tinned fish is completely ready to eat, seasoned, and delicious." [09:20]

Final Thoughts

This episode of All Of It masterfully blends cultural exploration with practical culinary guidance, shedding light on the often-overlooked versatility of tinned fish. Through engaging dialogue and listener participation, Alison Stewart and Becca Milstein highlight how tinned seafood can be both a pantry staple and a gourmet ingredient, enriching modern diets with minimal effort and maximum flavor.

Transcript

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[Becca Milstein]

Listener supported.

[Alison Stewart]

This is all of it on wnyc. I'm Alison Stewart. And on today's Food for Thought segment, we'll get into a new cookbook just out today that celebrates the briny goodness of tinned fish. Tinned fish is an important pantry staple in many different culinary traditions, from tapas, sardines to the reliably satin satisfying tuna melt. Its long shelf life and convenience make tin fish a versatile building block for meals offering flavor with minimal prep. But it's also a fairly polarizing category. Some people are turned off by the oily textures and strong flavors. Tinned fish is a class of ingredients with a bit of a learning curve. Joining us now is Becca Milstein, co founder of Fishwife Tinned Seafood Company, which has a new cookbook. It is out today called the Fish Wife's Cookbook. Delightful Tinned Fish recipes for every. Becca, Happy pub Day.

[Becca Milstein]

Thank you so much for having me. I'm so happy to be here. Allison.

[Alison Stewart]

Listeners, if you're a lifelong fan of tinned fish or a newcomer to the world of sardines, anchovies or smoked mackerel, we want to hear your favorite dishes and recipes as well as your questions for Becca Milstein, co founder of the fishwife Tin Seafood Company. Give us a call, 2124-3396-9221-2433, WNYC. You can call in, join us on air or you can text to that number. Can you talk a little bit about the term fish wife and how all the connotations it carries made it the right name for your women run Tinned.

[Becca Milstein]

Fish company of course. So the term fish wife dates back to the 15th century in Europe. And it was originally a completely neutral term that referred to the wives of fishermen who would sell their husband's wares at the market. But because their, you know, fresh fish was so perishable, over time, this term came to take on sort of a gendered insult for women that were really loud and bossy. You know, just imagine a fish wife screaming at someone to buy her fresh fish. So over time, it became sort of this gendered insult for women who, yeah, were loud, bossy, brash and foul mouthed. So when I learned about the Term, it really resonated so much with me as you know, personally, a very loud, foul mouthed woman who, you know, sells a lot of fish these days. So it was really just the perfect fit. And there was really no other name for the brand at that point.

[Alison Stewart]

Yeah, I can't think of such a bad thing being a loud, bossy, foul mouthed woman. What's the problem?

[Becca Milstein]

It's a great way to be at.

[Alison Stewart]

The beginning of a book. There's a chapter called Building Blocks with what you call foundational recipes that contribute to the more recipes in the book. What are your most useful building blocks?

[Becca Milstein]

Yeah, I mean we really build up. My co author and I identified these as, you know, very, very simple recipes that we just use time and time again in the cookbook. So this includes aioli, which we use in a number of recipes, including one of my favorite ones that I'm gonna chat about on the show. Olive oil fried bread, which is such a great base for all matter of tinned fish toast, which is one of our most popular use cases amongst our customer base. We have a beautiful labneh, some, you know, zesty pickled onions to really complement sort of the salty and creamy flavors that also appear in many of our recipes. We have steamed rice, which is very simple, but again, just such a stalwart in so many of these recipes. A simple green salad that can serve as a base for so many really beautiful tin fish dishes. And then, you know, perfectly jammy eggs which appear on so many rice bowls and salads and toasts.

[Alison Stewart]

You know, when you think about tinned fish, you think about various culinary traditions and cultures. What are some of the approaches to tinned fish from around the world that served as points of information, inspiration for the recipes in this book?

[Becca Milstein]

Yeah, I think the seed for Fish Wife was planted when I was living abroad in southern Spain in a city called Granada. At that time, Granada was the only city in Spain that still reliably served free tapas with every drink. So when you went out to dinner, it would be a very different experience than going out in the US where you expect sort of a square meal put in front of you. In Spain, you would really order, you know, a glass of white wine or tinto de verano or, you know, a small beer, and you would be given a really sort of elegant plate of tapas. And what, you know, those tapas, what they were ranged all over the place. I think what I kept seeing was, you know, there would be a few crackers, there might be some olives, and there might be a tin of sardines or some anchovies. And I think that preparation was so elegant, so simple. Obviously, these were dishes that the bartenders could keep behind the bar and bring out at a moment's notice and still create a really beautiful, you know, sort of light meal. And I think that was just incredibly attractive to me as someone that doesn't cook all that much. You'll see in this book these are really simple recipes. The cooking is really on the lighter side. It's really more assembling really simple bites, like the building blocks I shared with you and pairing them with the best match for a tin of fish. So anyway, I think the tradition that I saw in Spain and then in Portugal as well, of pairing super simple, really, really high ingred, high quality ingredients together, that was really what excited me about, you know, tin fish generally. And I think we've seen that just show up so much in the United States over the past five years. I think on restaurant menus, you see this kind of eating more and more.

[Alison Stewart]

My guest is Becca Milstein, co founder of Fishwife Tinned Seafood company. We're talking about the Fish Wife's cookbook. Delightful Tinned fish recipes for every occasion. If you're a lifelong fan of tinned fish or a newcomer to the worlds of sardines and anchovies, we want to hear from you, maybe your favorite dishes or recipes, as well as your questions. Rebecca Milstein. Our number is 2124-3396-9221-2433. WNYC. We got a text that says tuna sandwich with dill and green olives on toast. Mayonnaise, of course, or tuna with raisins. That sounds really good. This one says smoked oysters. Yummy. I think they're like seven, eight u's in that. Yummy. Let's talk to Cliff from Manhattan. Hi, Cliff.

[Cliff]

Hi. I was just thinking of sardines today and why I am a little apprehensive about having canned sardines. It's aesthetically, how do I get over my aesthetics of eating something with innards and skin on the outside? If I mash them up, does that all disappear? Would that be a good way of me to overcome my fear?

[Alison Stewart]

Cliff, Great question, Becca. A lot of people say tinned fish, canned fish. What's your suggestion?

[Becca Milstein]

I think Cliff has some really good ideas about mashing up. You know, sardines are so incredibly healthy for you. They have so much calcium and protein. You know, it's a really incredible product to, you know, seed into your diet for health reasons. Alone. So I think mashing up is a great idea. We have one recipe in the cookbook, an avocado and sardine toast, where you do sort of mash up a really beautiful fresh avocado with some sardines, and then you put it on top of that olive oil fried bread with a little bit of sea salt, lime, and red pepper flakes. And you can just imagine, as I read those ingredients aloud, you know, how sort of creamy and fatty, but also zesty and salty that that bite would be atop that crunchy olive oil fried toast. So that is one recipe I would definitely advise. Also a pasta con le sard, which is, you know, a really classic sardine dish. I think if you put it, you know, on a beautiful pasta with great olive oil and great, you know, sea salt, you're gonna forget about all of those elements of the sardine. That might. Might be a little scary at first.

[Alison Stewart]

For folks who aren't accustomed to using tinned fish in their everyday cooking, what are some to keep in mind when working with tin fish? When home cooks are maybe used to dealing with fresh fish?

[Becca Milstein]

I think the thing to keep in mind is that you're going to cut, you know, 30 to 45 minutes of cooking and clean time out of your meal prep. Meal prep and cleanup. So you really, you know, this just makes. I love tin fish because it just makes my life so simple. You know, I've got a busy schedule. Most people nowadays just are so busy. The wonderful benefit of tinned fish is that when you pop open one of those tins, what you'll find inside is, you know, completely ready to eat, seasoned, and just totally delicious. So I think, you know, we have that chapter on building blocks because, you know, that just shares a number of bases that you can use to support, you know, a beautiful tin of smoked rainbow trout, some gorgeous sardines and extra virgin olive oil, some smoked salmon. You really don't need to do that much cooking. You just prepare a very simple, simple base. Whether it's, you know, a simple, herby, lemony pasta or a lovely bowl of steamed rice with some chili oil or, you know, a piece of buttered sourdough. And then you just put your tin fish on top or stir it in. And then generally a little, you know, a little sea salt, a little olive oil. It's just really simple. So you kind of can conquer those, you know, few base recipes and then just choose your tin of fish, and then you've got a lovely meal ready to go.

[Alison Stewart]

We're talking to Becca Milstein about her new cookbook, the Fish Wife's Cookbook. Delightful tinned fish recipes for every occasion. We'd like to hear from you. If you're a lifelong fan or you just want to try out some tinned fish, give us a call, 212-433-9692. We want to hear your favorite dishes or your recipes or questions you have for Becca Milstein, co founder of the Fishwife Tinned Seafood Company. Our number is 2124-339692-22433. WNYC. We'll have more. Quick break. This is all of it.

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[Becca Milstein]

At 24, I lost my narrative, or rather it was stolen from me. And the Monica Lewinsky that my friends and family knew was usurped by false narratives, callous jokes and politics. I would define reclaiming as to take back what was yours. Something you possess is lost or stolen, and ultimately you triumph in finding it again. Listen to Reclaiming with Monica Lewinsky wherever you get your podcasts.

[Alison Stewart]

This is all of it on wnyc. I'm Alison Stewart. My guest is Becca Milstein. She's co founder of fishwife Tin Seafood Company. They're releasing a cookbook today called the Fishwife's Cookbook. Delightful Tinned Fish for Recipes for Every Occasion. I have this question for you. It's from our text. It says, do you have to remove the bones? What do you say?

[Becca Milstein]

You do not have to remove the bones. There are several tinfish that can contain bones. Primarily, it's going to be sardines. Anchovies contain very, very, very tiny bones so that you almost wouldn't recognize them as bones. And then some canned salmon also includes bones. You can eat them all. They're incredibly healthy, incredibly calcium rich. So, yeah, chomp away on those bones.

[Alison Stewart]

Let's talk to Julie. Julie is. I don't know where Julie's calling from. Hi, Julie, where are you calling from?

[Julie]

I'm calling from Jersey City.

[Alison Stewart]

All right, you're on the air.

[Julie]

Okay. Hi. Well, I just wanted to recount. I was at a London airport in a restaurant waiting for a flight, and on the menu was something called potted mackerel. And I looked at that and I said, oh, that's for me. And when they brought it and they sat in front of me, I thought to myself, now I can die happy. It was so good. I'm still remembering the taste of this strong, oily fish, and it was absolutely wonderful. So I'd like to reproduce it in my own kitchen. So I did buy a tin of mackerel, and I just wonder what I might need to add to it to make it, because I loved it.

[Alison Stewart]

Thank you.

[Becca Milstein]

Oh, my gosh. I'm so happy to hear about this beautiful airport story. Sounds absolutely delicious. We don't have a potted mackerel in the book, sadly. We have a pate that is absolutely delicious. It's a spiced mackerel pate. So it is not so far off from, you know, what you probably had in the airport. So for that dish, you need, we used a little extra virgin olive oil, some shallots, some sea salt, some garlic paprika. We use our slow smoked mackerel with chili flakes, which is an incredibly delicious tin. It has this gorgeous caramelized bark on the outside, and then it's really sort of tender and soft on the inside. So that and a little Calabrian chili paste, some sherry vinegar, and then, you know, you kind of stir, stir that all up. And then we serve it atop some crusty sourdough bread that you can grill with some olive oil as well. So it's really, you know, to create that incredible, magical airport moment that you had, you really need ingredients that you probably already have in your pantry. So that's. That's good news for you.

[Alison Stewart]

I have a dumb question. You open the can, you only half of it. What's the best way to store the fish?

[Becca Milstein]

That's a great question. The best way to store the fish is generally to take it out of the tin and put it in a Tupperware and close it up. And then it should be good for, you know, between three to five days.

[Alison Stewart]

Should pay. Should I pay attention to the expiration dates?

[Becca Milstein]

It's a great question. So for most tinned fish, and most of our tinned fish, the products have a very long shelf life. The average of ours is between five to seven years. So for any product you see that has, you know, sort of that five to seven year shelf life, you can leave that in your pantry. And I'm guessing that you will probably eat it before it hits that seventh year. That being said, for salt cured anchovies, which we sell, that has a much shorter shelf Life. That's about 12 months. And you will want to keep those in your fridge to Preserve the quality as long as possible. The reason for that being the those anchovies are they're salt cured as their, you know, as their curing method. Instead of a heat treating method, which is what most of the other canned fish you're familiar with, canned tuna, etc. That is how it's cooked. So again, put your solid cured anchovies in the fridge. Even though that might seem a little surprising to you, it's something that not many Americans know to do. But in Europe, if you travel around, you'll see anchovies are by and large kept in refrigerators.

[Alison Stewart]

This one says anchovies with anything makes me happy. Let's talk to Eileen from Cranford, New Jersey. Hi, Eileen.

[Julie]

Hey, Alison, thanks for taking my call. I love your show. I make a special dish that my mother in law taught me. It's pasta con sarde and it is sardines in a tomato sauce. And I make it, I put more veggies in it than she did. I add eggplant and zucchini, peppers and onions, fennel. And it's also seasoned with something that I buy in the Italian store called Beta. She called it Pensa Bene. It's seasoning for macaroni with sardines. It's a fennel flavored thing. And I cook that all together. There's black olives, it's Sicilian, there are raisins and pinolis. And it's one of those things that I just love. And it's kind of a thing when people hear there are sardines in it, they're like, ugh. But it's fabulous. And it's one of those craving things. Have you ever heard of that?

[Becca Milstein]

Yes. Oh, sorry. Yes. I think it sounds similar to pasta con le sard, which I was mentioning earlier, is, you know, one of the great classic sardine dishes. And for folks that are a little bit more hesitant about eating sardines is such a fantastic, elevated, delicious way to consume them. So amazing recipe. I could really use, use a pasta cone Lassard right now.

[Alison Stewart]

Let's talk to Rob calling in from New York. Hi, Rob.

[Cliff]

Hi. I'm calling from Valencia, New York. I have two little stories about. Well, first off, I'm from Europe and in Holland I was friends with a guy whose mother was constantly called a fishwife in the street because she sold fabric on at an open air market and was known to be the loudest of the whole market. And it was, you know, it was general knowledge and everybody liked it and she, they called her that. Anyway, beside the Point. The real story is I also frequented a diner in Brooklyn a lot, and there I ordered one day a Greek salad, which in Europe we would know to have some anchovies on them. And it actually states on the menu in the diner that it has anchovies on it, basically to warn people, because most people seem to not like it. So I order that. I get the salad. There's one proud anchovies in the middle on top of the salad. And I look at that and I call the owner, and I said, excuse me, can you look at this? And he says, what's wrong? And I said, there's an anchovy on it. And he said, yeah. Would you like me to take it off? I said, no, that's not enough. And so then he calls his kitchen staff, who promptly bring over a can of anchovies, and he says, dump it on there. And they did, and I was happy. And then later he told me, well, you know, us Europeans, we have ways.

[Alison Stewart]

We have ways. That's such a good story. My guest is Becca Milstein. The cookbook is called the Fishwife Cookbook. Delightfully tinned recipes for every occasion. For a beginner recipe, you picked out cherry tomato tartine with aioli and smoked salmon. You call it the holy grail of summertime lime toast. So I tried this last night, but I tried it with sardines, and it was great. By the way, can I switch up the fish if I want to, or do you kind of recommend just going with what you want?

[Becca Milstein]

I was going to bring this up on most of these recipes. By and large, you can absolutely switch up the fish. So I was gonna say, I actually love this recipe with smoked trout, which obviously is not so far away from smoked salmon, which is what we suggest, but, yes, you can. It's hard for me to think of any recipe in the book where you really can't swap tin for tin. So, yes, we encourage using what you have in your cupboard and trying out especially the more simple recipes like this toast.

[Alison Stewart]

And for a weeknight recipe, you pick tin smoked salmon deviled eggs. But in this one, it's an ingredient more than the main course.

[Becca Milstein]

Yes, this. This actually is a recipe for a dinner party that I thought would be fantastic. So these tin smoked salmon deviled eggs are, you know, sort of very similar to your classic deviled eggs, but you mix in some of our smoked salmon right into the, you know, the mixture of the egg yolk, the mayonnaise, mustard, chives, dill lemon juice, and horseradish, and it really just imbues them with this additional layer of sweetness, smokiness that is just so delightful and it's just so great to bring to a dinner party. Travels well and is really not so challenging to prepare.

[Alison Stewart]

Let's talk to Linda from Baskin Ridge. Hi, Linda, thanks for calling, all of it.

[Julie]

Hi, thanks for taking my call. I just wanted to say that growing up, my favorite lunch were was a sardine sandwich. Sardines on white bread with mayo. My favorite. And my sisters and I used to fight over those tiny bones in the canned salmon. But I wanted to add ask what if you could talk to what some of the nutritional values of tinned fish are.

[Becca Milstein]

Yeah, absolutely. So sort of across the board, tin fish is incredibly proteinaceous. So, you know, our tins range from between 15 to 19 grams of protein per tin. So really, really high in protein. Also, I think something that surprises people is that those, those tin fish products that do include bones like sardines and sometimes canned salmon are really high in calcium. So one tin of sardines has as much calcium as a, as a full glass of milk, which I think is, is really surprising to a lot of folks. And then beyond that, seafood is obviously, you know, it's the best source of omega 3s. So products like our smoked salmon and our smoked mackerel are incredibly rich in omega 3s. And, you know, I much prefer to get my omega 3s, you know, straight from the fish instead of, for example, some sort of little fish pill. It's a much more desirable preparation. So that is really a trifecta. And then there are, you know, numerous vitamins across, you know, the varied tin fish products. So you can get a lot of vitamin D in our mackerel, for example. And they really are just, you know, it's. Tinned fish is just as nutritious as fresh fish. So. And fresh fish we know is, is one of the healthiest things a person can eat. So yeah, they're really. There are no bounds to the health benefits of tin fish.

[Alison Stewart]

In our last minute, we're getting a lot of texts from people who like your products, love Fishwife products, as Tex says. And the packaging, we save it all for decoupage. You've got this beautiful packaging, by the way. If folks want to send us pictures of them eating their tinned fish or their they do with the artwork for Fishwife company Send it to our instagramlovswnyc. Tag us, we'll post it. Tell us a little bit about your look in the last minute.

[Becca Milstein]

Yeah, of course. So we've worked with an incredible Portland based illustrator named Danny Danbo Miller. Since 2020. He has been an illustrator for his whole life and we were so lucky to be the first brand that he partnered with and so he designs all of our packaging and he designs a whole bunch of other things too. So you know, all of our merch flyers, you know, in store collateral. He's just an incredible, incredible illustrator and handwritten topographist. So yes, it is packaging, but more than that, it's really art. So I'm so glad that your listeners enjoy it in their kitchens.

[Alison Stewart]

The name of the book is the Fish Wife Cookbook. Delightful Tin fish recipes for every occasion. Becca Milstein, thanks so much for being our guest.

[Becca Milstein]

Thank you so much for having me. I had so much fun.

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