All Of It (WNYC)

“Your Favorite Ice Cream Spots”

Date: June 19, 2024
Host: Kusha Navadar (in for Alison Stewart)
Guest: Melissa McCart, Editor of Eater New York

Overview

On this sizzling Juneteenth episode, Kusha Navadar and guest Melissa McCart invite New Yorkers to celebrate the city’s vibrant ice cream scene—a perfect way to cool off during NYC’s first official heat wave of the season. The show blends Melissa’s expert picks, listener recommendations, classic flavor debates, and community nostalgia, painting a rich portrait of frozen treat culture in the five boroughs and beyond.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

Ice Cream as Cultural Comfort (04:30–05:10)

• Kusha frames ice cream as communal relief and nostalgia, opening up the lines for listener tributes to their favorite spots and flavors:
  • “...we might all feel like screaming for ice cream because I have good news for us. There are plenty of places in New York City to get great ice cream.” —Kusha (04:41)
• The democratization of “ice cream” is embraced, including non-dairy versions like coconut- and oat-based creams.

Melissa McCart’s Go-To Spots & Flavors (05:10–08:00)

• Superiority Burger (East Village): Melissa’s top pick—not a traditional parlor but a spot known for exceptional gelato and sorbet, unexpectedly dazzling in both classic and creative flavors.
  • “Brooks Headley...was known for desserts for most of his career...he has some dazzling flavors of gelato as well as some that might seem a little frumpy or old man, like, like Almond Joy or butter pecan....But usually they will knock your socks off.” —Melissa (05:51)
• Chocolate Sorbet Revelation: Melissa champions chocolate sorbet’s intensity and richness—ideal for hot days and dairy-avoiders.
  • “It’s so good, you would not even know that it’s a sorbet.” —Melissa (06:55)

Defining "Ice Cream" (07:29–08:29)

• Melissa breaks down differences between ice cream, gelato, soft serve, and custard, highlighting ingredients, methods, and regional quirks.
  • “...there’s traditional ice cream, there’s gelato, and then there’s soft serve....If you’re a Midwesterner, there’s custard, but I can’t even get into custard because it’s not particularly prevalent here. And I don’t know, it's too eggy for me.” —Melissa (07:41)

Listener Favorites, Collaborations, and NYC Ice Cream Lore

Iconic Collabs: Russ & Daughters x Morgenstern’s (10:10–12:04)

• Nikki Russ Fetterman (of Russ & Daughters) calls in to announce a just-launched collaboration with Morgenstern’s: chocolate babka ice cream pops, sesame bagel ice cream sandwiches, and a vegan chocolate-covered halva bar.
  • “Timeout already called it the New Yorkiest dessert.” —Nikki (11:42)
  • “...available at all Russ and Daughters retail locations...and Morgensterns is also shipping them nationwide as a six pack.” —Nikki (11:32)
• Melissa is especially enthused about the sesame bagel sandwich, likening it to Italian granita on brioche.
  • “I can’t wait to go over there and try the sesame bagel sandwich in particular.” —Melissa (12:14)

Listener Recommendations & Nostalgia (13:19–16:10; 20:24–28:04)

• Classic Flavors & Yearnings: Don calls in, waxing nostalgic about Howard Johnson's butter almond ice cream—a rare flavor in today's shops and a rallying call for listeners.
  • “Does anybody anywhere in this city make butter almond anymore?...I’d give anything to have some butter almond ice cream again.” —Don (13:32)
• Unique Spots Highlighted by Callers:
  • Malai (Cobble Hill): Celebrated for inventive South Asian-inspired flavors like cherry black cardamom. (Amy, Upper West Side, 15:09)
  • Ralph’s Italian Ices: Known for variety—ices, sherbet, classic flavors—spanning Staten Island, Long Island, NJ. (Jennifer, 20:24)
  • Sugar Hill Creamery (Harlem): Beloved for expertly made classics and collaborations. “Their vanilla and chocolate are both spectacular.” —Melissa (22:31)
  • Dolce Brooklyn (Carroll Gardens): Crowd favorite for strawberry basil sorbet and mint stracciatella gelato. (Rupa, 24:26)
  • Torico (Jersey City): Melissa’s favorite for both vegan and dairy options, with lines out the door since 1968.
  • Seed + Mill (Chelsea Market) & Matcha Full: Recommended for those seeking vegan and oat milk-based soft serve.
  • Boice Dairy (Kingston, NY): Listener Jenny claims it’s worth a 30-mile detour for its soft serve. (26:41)
  • Max & Mina’s (Flushing, Queens): Famed for inventiveness and the ability to custom create flavors—including the sought-after butter almond. (Chetunna, 27:37)

Tips, Quirks, and Pro Moves

How to Spot Bad Bodega Ice Cream (09:17–09:51; 25:51–26:29)

• Melissa’s visual trick: If the freezer door is fogged up, beware—frequent openings signal melting and refreezing.
• Caller Irene’s practical tip: “Never buy a container where you see the ice cream on the outside...a layer of frost or snow from the outside” is a red flag. (26:01)

Vegan and Dairy-Free Options on the Rise (17:51–19:34)

• “A lot of indie places have almost an equal number of vegan option as non vegan options....Morgenstern’s Banana...is a vegan soft served only shop...banana, coffee creamer, salted peanut butter, and this almost black midnight chocolate.” —Melissa (17:51–18:40)
• Vegan soft serve is more readily available, with listeners clamoring for personal recommendations.

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• “Chocolate sorbet kind of kicks ice cream’s butt.” —Melissa McCart (06:55)
• “Timeout already called it the New Yorkiest dessert.” —Nikki Russ Fetterman of Russ & Daughters (11:42)
• “I feel like he’s conjuring the universe to make the flavor [butter almond] because it seems like one that could become pretty trendy.” —Melissa McCart (14:22)
• “Now I’m going to be on a summer butter almond hunt.” —Melissa McCart (28:18)

Flavor Trends, Debates, and the Art of the Cone

Cone Wars and Mr. Softee Tradition (05:16–05:27; 28:49–29:13)

• Melissa and Kusha share a mutual fondness for sugar cones—classic, nostalgic, and divisive among cone enthusiasts.
• Kusha’s quickfire question: Mr. Softee go-to orders?
  • Melissa: “I love anything with magic shell.” —Melissa (29:00)
  • Kusha: “What is magic shell? Is it with the chocolate on the outside?” (29:02)

Conclusion: The Culture in a Cone

As the phone lines buzz and texts pour in, it’s clear: ice cream is more than a summer treat—it’s a deeply local, creative, and communal ritual for New Yorkers. With a swirl of inventive flavors, old-school classics, expert advice, and heartwarming nostalgia, the episode becomes a cheerful ode to the city’s endless appetite for “sweet relief.”
“Happy Ice Cream Summer to you.” —Kusha (29:25)

Timestamps Guide to Key Segments

• Sweating Together, Screaming for Ice Cream: Opening context – 04:30
• Melissa’s Favorite Spot: Superiority Burger – 05:51–06:48
• Chocolate Sorbet as a Game-Changer – 06:55
• What is “Ice Cream,” Anyway? – 07:29–08:29
• Bodega Wisdom & Frosty Dilemmas – 09:17–09:51, 25:51–26:29
• Listener Collabs: Russ & Daughters x Morgenstern’s – 10:10–12:04
• Don and the Butter Almond Quest – 13:19–14:38, 26:41–27:22
• Spotlight: Malai, Ralph’s, Sugar Hill Creamery, Dolce Brooklyn, Torico, etc. – 15:09, 20:24, 22:16, 24:26, 19:41
• Vegan and Soft Serve Trends – 17:51–19:34
• Mr. Softee Nostalgia – 28:49–29:13

For Further Indulgence

• Find Russ & Daughters x Morgenstern’s desserts: All Russ & Daughters locations & Morgenstern’s website for nationwide shipping (11:32).
• Vegan soft serve seekers: Try Morgenstern’s Banana, Seed + Mill, and Matcha Full.
• On the butter almond beat? Listeners suggest Max & Mina's or making your best plea to local parlors.

New York’s ice cream landscape is wild, wide, and always cool. Dive in!