Podcast Summary: All Of It – "Your Favorite New York Slices"

Release Date: July 25, 2025
Host: Alison Stewart
Produced by WNYC

Introduction

In the episode titled "Your Favorite New York Slices," All Of It delves into the rich and diverse world of New York City's pizza culture. Hosted by Alison Stewart, the show celebrates summer restaurant week by spotlighting the city's best pizza offerings—from classic slices to underrated gems. The conversation is enriched by insights from Scott Wiener, founder and owner of Scott's Pizza Tours, who provides expertise on the science, history, and cultural significance of NYC pizza.

The History of Pizza in New York City

Scott Wiener's Insight: Scott Wiener begins by tracing the origins of pizza in New York City back to the late 1800s. He explains how Southern Italian immigrants arrived in large numbers, bringing their culinary traditions to industrial hubs like New York, New Haven, Trenton, Philadelphia, and Boston.

“[00:50] Scott Wiener: …the earliest pizza in America was different from the pizza that came over from southern Italy. And that became the basis of what we still celebrate today, places like John's Obliquer and Frank Pepe's in New Haven.”

Wiener highlights the significance of anthracite coal, which was readily available and inexpensive, allowing for the establishment of pizza ovens that defined the early American pizza landscape.

Popularity Trends: He identifies two key periods of increased pizza popularity:

1. Late 1800s to Early 1900s: Initial introduction by immigrants.
2. Post-World War II (1950s): A major surge in popularity due to advancements in restaurant equipment and oven technology.

“[02:26] Scott Wiener: …the big explosion that you're mentioning is Post World War II, really in the 1950s, that's when, you know, access to being able to open these restaurants.”

Listener Recommendations and Personal Stories

Heartfelt Recommendations:

• Lisa from Levittown:
  Shares a nostalgic and emotional connection to Captain Pizzeria in the Bronx, describing her first bite as so exceptional it brought her to tears.

  “[03:26] Lisa: …I cried. I literally cried because there is no pizza like that in the whole world.”

• Ira Flato:
  Recommends Manno's Pizzeria in Ridgewood, Queens, praising their commitment to fermenting dough for five days without chemical additives.

  “[04:12] Ira Flato: …his pizza is just simply the best New York style I've had in a minute.”

Scott Wiener's Endorsements: Scott echoes Ira’s enthusiasm for Manno's and adds his own favorites, such as FNF Pizzeria in Carroll Gardens, Paulie Gee’s in Greenpoint, and more, often highlighting unique aspects like dough fermentation techniques and quality ingredients.

“[05:42] Scott Wiener: …Nick’s pizza. He uses an Italian flour called caputo americana for his pizza, which is a product that I actually helped develop a few years ago.”

Additional Listener Contributions: Various listeners from different boroughs share their top pizza spots, contributing to a vibrant tapestry of New York's pizza scene. Notable mentions include Joe's Brick Oven Pizza in the Bronx, Noco's Tartufata Pizza in St. Mark’s, and Bleecker Street Pizza in Greenwich Village.

The Science of a Great New York Slice

Dough and Fermentation: Scott Wiener delves into the science of pizza dough, explaining the differences between commercial yeast and sourdough. He emphasizes that sourdough utilizes native yeast and bacteria, leading to deeper flavors and improved texture.

“[09:03] Scott Wiener: …sourdough, then you're using native yeast, yeast that's living in your environment. Plus outnumbering the yeast by a factor of 100 are bacteria. And so it's the bacterial fermentation that end up giving you deeper flavor.”

Flour Types: The discussion extends to flour varieties, particularly double zero flour, which is highly refined and ideal for high-temperature ovens but may not be suitable for all slice shops.

“[12:48] Scott Wiener: …double zero flour is an Italian flour. That's highly refined… it's just a great flour to use in high temperature ovens.”

Sauce Simplicity: Wiener highlights the traditional New York approach to pizza sauce—simple, uncooked, typically consisting of just tomatoes and salt—to allow the quality of the tomatoes to shine.

“[13:23] Scott Wiener: …most pizza sauces are just tomatoes and salt and they're not cooked. And they're very lightly seasoned, if at all.”

Cultural Significance and Evolution of Pizza Hotspots

Historical Pizzerias: Scott outlines the evolution of pizza hotspots, starting from Little Italy neighborhoods in East Harlem and Mulberry Street in Lower Manhattan to Brooklyn’s Red Hook and the West Village’s Italian Quarter.

“[11:30] Scott Wiener: …the first one, and then Lower Manhattan along Mulberry street, the second one. And then you also simultaneously had parts of Brooklyn, like Red Hook had pizzerias in the 1890s.”

Modern-Day Diversity: The podcast underscores how pizza is now spread across all boroughs, each offering unique styles and specialties, reflecting New York City's diverse cultural landscape.

Special Topics: Gluten-Free and Kosher Pizzas

Gluten-Free Options: Responding to listener inquiries, Scott provides recommendations for gluten-free pizza lovers, mentioning spots like Caste on Fulton Street and Ribalta near Union Square.

“[14:02] Scott Wiener: Caste down on Fulton Street. Excellent. Gluten free ribalta, 48 East 12th street, right by Union Square. Excellent.”

Kosher Pizza: He also touches on kosher options, recommending Kosher Pizza Time on Avenue J, known for its reliable quality and adherence to dietary laws.

“[20:15] Scott Wiener: …on Avenue J called Kosher Pizza Time. It's been open Since, I think, 92 or 93… that's a pretty decent one.”

Unique Pizza Styles and Innovations

Cup Pepperoni: The episode explores the distinctive cup pepperoni style, where pepperoni slices curl during cooking, creating a cup-like shape that holds toppings and adds a unique texture.

“[18:48] Scott Wiener: …the original pepperoni came in a natural casing. And that means that when you cook it, the natural casing, like the intestinal lining will shrink and the pepperoni will cup.”

Upside Down Sicilian Pizza: Highlighted is Ellen B. Spumoni on 86th Street, famed for its upside-down Sicilian pizza, a regional variation beloved by locals.

“[19:58] Scott Wiener: …they're really known for their upside down Sicilian pizza.”

Conclusion

The episode wraps up with a celebration of New York City's enduring love affair with pizza. Host Alison Stewart and Scott Wiener encourage listeners to explore and savor the city's diverse pizza offerings, each slice telling its own story of tradition, innovation, and community.

“[20:54] Scott Wiener: Thanks so much. I'm hungry now.”

Listeners are reminded to refer to the upcoming transcript for detailed recommendations and to continue their pizza exploration beyond the episode.

Key Takeaways

• Historical Roots: New York pizza's origins are deeply tied to Southern Italian immigration and the availability of anthracite coal for baking.
• Cultural Diversity: Each borough offers unique pizza styles, reflecting the city's multicultural fabric.
• Science of Pizza Making: The type of flour, fermentation process, and simplicity of sauce are crucial in crafting the perfect slice.
• Community Favorites: Personal stories and listener recommendations highlight the emotional and communal aspects of enjoying pizza in NYC.
• Innovations and Traditions: From sourdough crusts to cup pepperoni, New York pizza continues to evolve while honoring its rich traditions.

For those eager to embark on their own pizza tour, the episode serves as a comprehensive guide to some of New York City's finest and most underrated pizza spots, ensuring every listener can find their perfect slice.