Armchair Expert with Dax Shepard - Episode: Rerelease: Roy Choi
Release Date: January 3, 2025
In this compelling episode of Armchair Expert with Dax Shepard, host Dax Shepard reunites with his guest, renowned chef and entrepreneur Roy Choi, to delve deep into Roy's personal journey, his cultural heritage, and the intricate dynamics of the restaurant industry. Co-host Monica Padman also joins the conversation, adding her insightful perspectives.
1. Introduction to Roy Choi
The episode kicks off with Dax expressing his admiration for Roy Choi, highlighting Roy's significant contributions to the culinary world and his unique approach to making food accessible. Dax remarks, “It’s always Roy Choi” (00:40), underscoring Roy's consistent impact on the podcast.
2. Roy Choi's Cultural and Family Background
Roy shares his rich Korean heritage, detailing the tumultuous history of his family, which mirrors Korea's own struggles post-Korean War. He recounts, “My maternal grandfather... eventually took over, kind of like midtown Manhattan” (10:20), illustrating the resilience and entrepreneurial spirit ingrained in his lineage. However, Roy also touches upon the dark side of his family's past, including addiction issues that plagued his relatives: “Both brothers got addicted to gambling and lost the whole fortune” (11:36).
3. Personal Struggles with Addiction
A candid discussion unfolds as Roy opens up about his battles with addiction. From gambling to crack addiction, Roy paints a vivid picture of his descent and eventual recovery. At (08:08), Roy states, “I went so far through that [crack addiction]. I came out the other end and I was like, this shit sucks. I'm done.” His honesty provides listeners with an unfiltered look into the challenges he faced and overcame.
4. The Turning Point: Embracing Cooking
Roy credits a pivotal moment in his life to an inspirational encounter with TV chef Emeril Lagasse. Describing an out-of-body experience, he shares, “Emeril came on, and I had an out of body experience... he slapped me around. He was like, what the fuck are you doing?” (46:12). This surreal moment galvanized Roy to pivot his life towards cooking, leading him to culinary school and ultimately founding the Kogi Truck.
5. Founding the Kogi Truck: A Culinary Revolution
Roy delves into the philosophy behind Kogi, emphasizing the democratization of food and the fusion of Korean and Mexican cuisines. He explains, “He uses it as a route into healing connection” (05:18), highlighting how Kogi became more than just a food truck—it became a cultural bridge fostering community and healing through shared culinary experiences.
6. Asian American Experiences and Stereotypes
The conversation shifts to broader societal issues as Roy and Dax discuss the model minority myth and the diverse challenges faced by different Asian communities in the U.S. Roy asserts, “Just because a certain sector of a certain race... doesn't mean that everyone else is successful” (15:20), challenging the oversimplified perceptions of Asian Americans and shedding light on the economic disparities within these communities.
7. Challenges in the Restaurant Industry
Roy provides an in-depth analysis of the restaurant industry's precarious nature, citing high failure rates and slim profit margins. At (59:01), he breaks down the financial struggles: “Food cost is about 30%, labor is about 20-30%, fixed costs take another 20-25%, leaving only about 5% profit.” This financial squeeze is exacerbated by the COVID-19 pandemic, which Roy explains led to widespread closures and exposed the industry's vulnerabilities.
8. Proposing Solutions: Fair Pricing and Cooperative Models
In addressing these challenges, Roy advocates for systemic changes, including reforming the tipping system and exploring cooperative models among restaurateurs. He remarks, “If every table was this do or die, and we shift towards a model where profits are distributed more evenly... it could create a lot more balance.” (66:00). Roy emphasizes the need for industry leaders to implement and advocate for these changes to ensure sustainability for small businesses.
9. Evolution of Food Culture
The discussion broadens to the transformation of food culture, contrasting the past dominance of fast food with the rise of experiential and quality-driven dining. Roy highlights, “Dave Chang started this wave, you know, and Kogi came on the heels of that. Momofuku really broke the mold.” (35:24). This shift has led to food becoming a significant part of cultural identity and personal experiences.
10. Roy Choi's Current Endeavors: "Broken Bread" Season 2
Concluding the episode, Roy shares insights about his Emmy and James Beard award-winning series, Broken Bread, which explores the profound connections between food and culture. He states, “It's fascinating and kind of... a route into healing connection.” (04:45). Roy expresses his commitment to continuing this narrative, aiming to shed light on the intertwined relationship between culinary practices and societal healing.
Notable Quotes:
- Roy Choi (10:20): “My maternal grandfather... eventually took over, kind of like midtown Manhattan.”
- Roy Choi (08:08): “I went so far through that [crack addiction]. I came out the other end and I was like, this shit sucks. I'm done.”
- Roy Choi (05:18): “He uses it as a route into healing connection.”
- Roy Choi (15:20): “Just because a certain sector of a certain race... doesn't mean that everyone else is successful.”
- Roy Choi (59:01): “Food cost is about 30%, labor is about 20-30%, fixed costs take another 20-25%, leaving only about 5% profit.”
- Roy Choi (35:24): “Dave Chang started this wave, you know, and Kogi came on the heels of that. Momofuku really broke the mold.”
- Roy Choi (04:45): “It's fascinating and kind of... a route into healing connection.”
This episode of Armchair Expert is a deep dive into Roy Choi's life, his resilience in overcoming addiction, and his visionary approach to redefining food culture. Through candid conversations and insightful discussions, listeners gain a comprehensive understanding of the complexities within the culinary industry and the broader societal challenges faced by Asian Americans. Roy's journey serves as an inspiring testament to the power of vulnerability, cultural identity, and the relentless pursuit of passion.