Articles of Interest: Chromophobia Episode Summary

Podcast Information:

• Title: Articles of Interest
• Host/Author: Avery Trufelman
• Description: Articles of Interest is a show about what we wear.
• Episode: Chromophobia
• Release Date: November 8, 2023

Introduction

In the episode "Chromophobia," host Avery Trufelman explores the complex relationship between humans and color in fashion. The discussion delves into the challenges faced by blind individuals in navigating a color-centric world, the historical significance of color in society, the environmental and health impacts of textile dyes, and innovative solutions aiming to revolutionize the fashion industry's approach to color.

Navigating a Color-Centric World as a Blind Individual

Matthew Shiffrin, a blind individual and performer, shares his unique perspective on color and fashion:

• Understanding Colors Without Perception:

  "I have no perception of it because I've never seen it. I don't imagine it because I don't have the capacity to imagine it." (00:48)

• Challenges in Dressing:

  "It's like dealing with a language that you never will be able to speak." (01:19)

• Reliance on Technology:

  • Matthew uses a color-identifying app to assist in selecting clothing:

    "Okay, it says everything around me is black, brown." (02:28)

• Limitations of Current Technology:

  "Even with the color identifying app, that doesn't mean that you're free to point to anywhere and can trust the app." (02:34)

• Social Implications:

  "Everyone's looking at you. You're a blind person in a sighted world, like it or not." (01:24)

Avery Trufelman raises a reflective question on whether opting out of color is feasible:

"Is color really necessary? Maybe we could all just let it go..." (04:26)

Historical Context of Color in Fashion

Alden Wicker, investigative journalist and author of To Die for, provides a historical lens on color:

• Origins of Chromophobia:

  "It's the idea that bright color is unserious, unsophisticated, unnatural, unpure, and even unhealthy." (26:59)

• Early Color Significance:

  "Red... came from cochineal bugs. Or purple that was made from mollusks." (13:32)

• Industrial Revolution and Color Democratization:

  "William Perkin... created a beaker of brilliant purple. It was a big splash..." (19:40)

• Health Impacts of Early Dyes:

  "This worker died on the factory floor frothing green foam from her mouth." (15:48)

Dr. Julie Lamar, a design theory instructor, emphasizes the psychological and economic impacts of color:

"What makes the blue jacket so expensive and the yellow jacket so cheap is just perception." (11:14)

Environmental and Health Concerns with Modern Dyes

The episode highlights the detrimental effects of chemical dyes on both human health and the environment:

• Health Risks:

  • Avery's Personal Experience:

    "I broke out in this huge itchy rash... something in the dress had messed with me." (31:35)

  • Chemical Exposure:

    "There are 40 to 60,000 chemicals used commercially today. The vast majority of them have not been tested for human safety." (31:56)

• Environmental Impact:

  "Dye cleanup is really one of the big factors in clothing manufacturing." (34:14)

• Regulatory Challenges:

  "Once the EPA in the 80s started being like, hey, you can't do that anymore and you have to clean it up, the dye manufacturers moved to places with fewer regulations." (35:31)

Alden Wicker discusses the widespread issue of undisclosed chemicals in garments:

"The dye houses don't really know what's in here. And then consumers really don't know what's in there." (33:06)

Innovative Solutions: Balancing Technology and Tradition

The episode presents two contrasting approaches to addressing the challenges of color in fashion: technological innovation and traditional practices.

Starship: Technological Innovations

Erin Sievers, Technical Director of Dyko Textile Systems, introduces a groundbreaking technology:

• Waterless Dyeing Process:

  "We can do that without water. Dyeing, without any water at all." (40:20)

• Use of Carbon Dioxide:

  "Instead of water, using carbon dioxide." (40:35)

• Environmental Benefits:

  "We've taken out that problem... we are now installing a machine in the Netherlands." (41:48)

Canoe: Traditional and Sustainable Practices

Sally Fox, plant geneticist and founder of Fox Fiber, advocates for naturally colored cotton:

• Breeding Naturally Colored Cotton:

  "I've been doing traditional plant breeding on naturally colored cottons with the goal of having it as a viable alternative." (42:58)

• Historical Context:

  "In the southeastern United States, slaves had gardens, and they were not allowed to grow white cotton... only colored cotton." (44:24)

• Cultural Significance:

  "Color is not at odds with nature. Color is not at odds with health. Color is culture." (45:04)

Avery Trufelman envisions a harmonious blend of both approaches:

"A world where you dye a dark Sally Fox fabric with Dyko technology and get this beautiful, deep, rich hue with way, way fewer chemicals and no water." (45:31)

The Persistence of Chromophobia in Modern Fashion

Despite advancements, the fear of bright colors persists, influencing consumer behavior and fashion trends:

• Cultural Shifts:

  "Living rooms in white, coffee shops, in galleries of white walls, in parties in the Hamptons clothed entirely in white." (25:35)

• Changing Associations:

  "Green starts making this re emergence as being fresh and being healthy for you." (23:15)

• Impact on Consumption:

  "As meanings and associations change, colors come in and out of style and drive the trend cycle and drive consumption." (21:27)

Dr. Julie Lamar reflects on personal choices influenced by chromophobia:

"I have my dark blacks and my light blacks. Very rarely will I go outside of that comfort zone..." (24:21)

Conclusion: Bridging the Gap Between Visibility and Perception

Avery Trufelman wraps up the episode by emphasizing the importance of color as a language and mediator in human interaction, despite its complexities and challenges:

• Color as Communication:

  "Color is a language that works in metaphor, a set of references to constantly shifting circumstance." (47:03)

• Balancing Innovation and Tradition:

  "It's not either or. So I'm not saying you shouldn't have any other colors, but I'm saying why don't we use this color as a way to use less dyes?" (45:22)

• Call to Action: Avery encourages listeners to support independent creators and expresses uncertainty about the show's future, hoping for continued support and engagement.

Notable Quotes

• Matthew Shiffrin:

  "What makes the blue jacket so expensive and the yellow jacket so cheap is just perception." (11:14)

• Dr. Julie Lamar:

  "So you want to sell something, right? You're making a product for people to buy." (11:56)

• Alden Wicker:

  "It was democratized. But when I'm starting to think about this word, like, we're going to democratize this, we're going to democratize that, Usually what that means is that somebody's losing." (14:28)

Future of "Articles of Interest"

Avery Trufelman announces that "Chromophobia" is the final episode for the year, hinting at future developments and ways listeners can support the show. She emphasizes the importance of creating meaningful content and expresses hope for the continuation of the podcast community.

Timestamp Reference:

• 00:01 to 47:15

This summary provides a comprehensive overview of the "Chromophobia" episode, capturing the key discussions and insights shared by the participants. It highlights the multifaceted relationship between color, fashion, technology, and society, offering valuable perspectives for both sighted and non-sighted individuals.