Articles of Interest – Episode: Plus Sizes
Release Date: September 13, 2023
Host: Avery Trufelman
Produced and Hosted by Avery Trufelman

Introduction

In this compelling episode of Articles of Interest, host Avery Trufelman collaborates with Ronald Young Jr. and Sarah Deeley from the podcast Wait for It to delve deep into the complexities of plus-size fashion. The conversation uncovers the systemic challenges faced by the plus-size community, historical contexts shaping current trends, and the ongoing efforts to create a more inclusive and fashionable clothing landscape.

Challenges in Plus-Size Fashion

Ronald Young Jr. opens the discussion by sharing his personal journey with weight gain as an adult and the subsequent struggles in finding stylish and affordable clothing. He states:

“[00:27] Ronald Young Jr.: I grew up watching a lot of television and movies and I saw black folks that just looked good wearing the right hat, wearing the right suit, the right shirt, the right shoes, all of that. And I thought that I would get there someday... why is this so hard? Why is it so hard to make clothes that are inclusive of plus size folks that are fashionable and affordable?”

This sentiment is echoed by Sarah Deeley, who emphasizes the frustration of limited options:

“[03:11] Sarah Deeley: There are very few plus size options. So I wanted to have an exclusively plus size swap so that people feel welcome and included.”

The panel highlights several key issues:

• Limited Availability: Basic clothing items like T-shirts and jeans are often hard to find in plus sizes.
• Fit Inconsistencies: Even when clothes are available, they frequently do not fit properly, making in-store shopping a daunting task.
• Lack of Fashionable Options: Plus-size clothing tends to lag in fashion trends compared to straight sizes, limiting personal expression.

Sarah Deeley further discusses the emotional toll of these challenges:

“[09:45] Sarah Deeley: I mean, like, we’re fighting to even be treated like humans.”

The Role of Pattern Makers

A significant portion of the conversation revolves around the technical aspects of fashion design, specifically the role of pattern makers in creating plus-size clothing. Leela Kelleher, a plus-size pattern maker and sewist, provides expert insights:

“[13:06] Avery Trufelman: I talk to a lot of people in fashion. Pattern makers are the best people in fashion. And so you should know that Leela Kelleher absolutely rules.”

Leela explains the complexities involved in designing for plus sizes:

“[17:02] Leela Kelleher: When someone gets fatter, their soft tissue gets bigger, but it doesn’t get bigger in all dimensions equally. So, certain parts of the garment get bigger at different rates than other parts.”

The discussion underscores that traditional pattern grading methods fail to account for the nuanced changes in body dimensions, leading to garments that are oversized or ill-fitting in specific areas.

Ronald adds:

“[16:09] Ronald Young Jr.: But that doesn’t really account for genetic dimensions of humans and, like, how my thigh might be longer than yours or, like, be thicker around or any of that stuff.”

This technical barrier contributes to the broader industry problem of non-inclusive sizing.

The 'Cold Shoulder' Phenomenon

One of the most contentious topics discussed is the prevalence of the “cold shoulder” trend in plus-size women's wear. Mayra Mejia identifies this trend as the most disliked among plus-size consumers:

“[04:41] Mayra Mejia: Cold shoulder, Cold shoulder.”

Sarah Deeley probes deeper into the origins and implications:

“[23:14] Sarah Deeley: Just put in the cheat code and then get to the stuff that’s more important. Like, that felt dark to me. And like, it’s thin people or these straight sized designers who are designing for fat people, and instead of doing the work, they’re like, well, let’s make them think this is a trend.”

Ronald Young Jr. likens the trend to a manipulative tactic:

“[43:27] Ronald Young Jr.: You know what this sounds like, honestly? It’s like, no, this is actually whack.”

The “cold shoulder” trend is criticized for being a superficial fix that avoids addressing the fundamental issues in plus-size fashion design, instead perpetuating a cycle of inadequate solutions.

Historical Context: Lane Bryant and The Forgotten Woman

The episode takes a historical turn by exploring the evolution of plus-size fashion through the lens of iconic brands like Lane Bryant and boutiques like The Forgotten Woman.

Sarah Deeley recounts the origins of Lane Bryant:

“[24:33] Sarah Deeley: Lane Bryant actually began as a maternity wear business... Founded by Lena Hemelstein Bryant, a Lithuanian Jewish immigrant woman.”

Lauren Downing Peters, a fashion historian, adds:

“[26:05] Lauren Downing Peters: She became really well known, and in 1909, her husband died and she remarried a man named Albert Nelson. He was a mechanical engineer... realized that [plus-size] was a bigger business opportunity.”

Albert Nelson's influence led to the commercialization of plus-size fashion with a problematic focus on making fat bodies appear more slender through design tricks like vertical stripes and camouflage patterns.

Sarah critiques this historical approach:

“[27:08] Sarah Deeley: It’s the difference... it's not meant to accentuate your best parts and hide your other parts. It’s meant to hide and obscure you completely.”

The discussion highlights how early plus-size fashion was rooted in making fat bodies "acceptable" rather than celebrating diverse body shapes.

The Forgotten Woman Boutique

A significant highlight is the story of The Forgotten Woman, an upscale plus-size boutique from the late 70s and 80s. Marissa Meltzer and Jessica Hinkle describe its impact:

“[31:05] Avery Trufelman: The Forgotten Woman was sold to venture capitalists and then filed for chapter 11 sometime after that.”

Jessica Hinkle, owner of Proud Mary Vintage, draws parallels between past and present:

“[39:02] Sarah Deeley: So this is me and Jessica Hinkle. Jessica owns Proud Mary Vintage, which is in Highland Park, LA, and it is specifically a plus size vintage store.”

The boutique was notable for offering high-end, designer plus-size clothing, challenging the limited options available at the time. It created a space where plus-size individuals could find fashionable and luxurious apparel, setting a precedent for future inclusive fashion efforts.

Current Efforts and Solutions

The conversation shifts to contemporary initiatives aimed at bridging the gap in plus-size fashion:

• Clothing Swaps: Organized by groups like Plush DMV, these events provide temporary solutions by allowing individuals to exchange clothing, fostering a sense of community and shared resources.

  “[02:13] Ronald Young Jr.: This is the problem for me and this is why I came to you.”

• Plus-Size Vintage Stores: Establishments like Proud Mary Vintage and The Plus Bus offer curated selections of vintage plus-size clothing, promoting diversity and style.

  “[39:47] Mayra Mejia: When I find older clothing, like true vintage, it's custom made to somebody's measurements...”

• Pattern Making Innovation: Leela Kelleher emphasizes the need for more plus-size fit models and dedicated pattern makers to create garments that genuinely fit and flatter diverse body types.

  “[17:45] Avery Trufelman: Hiring another fit model or another two fit models. It’s not that hard.”

Conclusions and Future Directions

The episode concludes with a call to action for the fashion industry to embrace inclusivity fully. Ronald Young Jr. encapsulates the sentiment:

“[44:30] Ronald Young Jr.: Fat folks care about what they look like. We're not just trying to wear flattering clothes that make us look smaller. We're trying to look good.”

Avery Trufelman urges brands to commit to making and marketing plus-size clothing, emphasizing that the responsibility shouldn't fall solely on the community:

“[44:18] Sarah Deeley: It feels like a little wink. Like we got them like they fell for it.”

The collaboration between Articles of Interest and Wait for It underscores the importance of cross-platform dialogues in advancing the conversation around plus-size fashion.

Notable Quotes with Timestamps

• Ronald Young Jr.:
  “[00:27] I grew up watching a lot of television and movies and I saw black folks that just looked good wearing the right hat...”

• Sarah Deeley:
  “[09:45] I mean, like, we’re fighting to even be treated like humans.”

• Leela Kelleher:
  “[13:06] When someone gets fatter, their soft tissue gets bigger, but it doesn’t get bigger in all dimensions equally.”

• Sarah Deeley:
  “[23:14] It’s thin people or these straight sized designers who are designing for fat people...”

• Ronald Young Jr.:
  “[43:27] You know what this sounds like, honestly? It’s like, no, this is actually whack.”

Final Thoughts

This episode of Articles of Interest offers a thorough exploration of the multifaceted issues surrounding plus-size fashion. By intertwining personal experiences, expert insights, and historical perspectives, Avery Trufelman and her guests shed light on both the progress made and the significant hurdles that remain. The conversation serves as a powerful reminder of the ongoing need for inclusivity and innovation in the fashion industry.

Listen to the episode and share your plus-size fashion experiences at articlesofinterest.substack.com.