ASCP Esty Talk: Ep 298 – The Devil Wears (Beef) Tallow

Hosts:

• Ella Cressman (B): Licensed esthetician, certified organic skincare formulator, international educator, and content contributor for Associated Skin Care Professionals.
• Maggie Stasik (C): Licensed esthetician and ASCP's education program manager.

Introduction and Shout Out [00:52 – 02:36]

Ella Cressman opens the episode with a personal anecdote about attending her cousin’s wedding in Memphis, Tennessee, revealing her past as a makeup artist and her subsequent decision to retire from the profession. However, family events drew her back into the realm of beauty services, leading her to meet Mariah Ramos, a talented makeup artist at a med spa in Austin, Minnesota. Ella extends a warm shout out to Mariah, expressing her appreciation for her skills and encouraging her to join future podcast episodes.

Connecting Pop Culture to Skincare Trends [02:36 – 05:56]

The conversation shifts to the iconic movie "The Devil Wears Prada," specifically a scene where Meryl Streep’s character, Miranda Priestly, critiques fashion trends. Ella draws a parallel between the film’s commentary on fashion and the current state of skincare trends. She highlights how trends often originate from manufacturers—be it product manufacturers or ingredient suppliers—and questions how estheticians perceive these trends once they hit the mainstream.

Ella cites a Facebook group discussion from the Esthetician Support Group initiated by Dani McKnight, which asks, “What’s everyone’s least favorite skin trend right now?” This sets the stage for an exploration of unpopular or controversial trends within the skincare industry.

Current Least Favorite Skin Trends [05:56 – 10:37]

Maggie shares her disdain for fleeting trends such as snail mucin and contouring with sunscreen, labeling them as nonsensical from a professional esthetician’s perspective.

Ella adds to the list with salmon as a dubious trend, questioning its relevance and practicality in skincare.

They present the results of Dani McKnight’s poll, revealing over 250 comments. Before delving into the top three least favorite trends, they discuss honorable mentions:

1. Jelly Masks:

   • Maggie admits she’s not a fan, finding them claustrophobic and ineffective.
   • Ella echoes this sentiment, sharing a negative personal experience where jelly masks felt messy and uncomfortable.

2. Brow Laminations, Tints, and Airbrushing:

   • Maggie differentiates between traditional tinting (a long-standing practice) and newer trends like laminations, which she believes are unnecessary or overhyped.
   • Ella notes the occasional success of brow lamination but remains generally critical.

3. Skincare Products for Kids and Teenagers Not Suited for Their Skin:

   • Maggie highlights concerns about younger generations using products that may not be appropriate for their skin types, emphasizing the importance of tailored skincare.

Top Three Least Favorite Skin Trends [10:37 – 22:26]

3. At-Home Dermaplaning [08:43 – 09:47]

Ella identifies at-home dermaplaning (shaving one’s own face) as a controversial trend. While she personally practices it and appreciates its benefits, she acknowledges differing opinions among professionals. Maggie humorously comments on Ella’s facial hair, reinforcing their playful dynamic.

2. Glass Skin [09:47 – 10:37]

Glass skin—a trend aiming for a flawless, dewy complexion—is met with mixed feelings:

• Ella criticizes it for potentially exacerbating oiliness and compromising the skin barrier.
• Maggie concedes that while it can enhance certain skin types, it may appear greasy or unnatural on others.

1. Beef Tallow [10:37 – 22:26]

Beef tallow emerges as the number one least favorite skin trend, sparking an in-depth discussion:

Ella introduces beef tallow as a resurfacing trend popularized on platforms like TikTok and Instagram. She references several reputable sources expressing skepticism:

• Verywell Health (Nov 27, 2024): "Beef fat is the Internet's new skincare obsession. Is it worth the hype? Ew."
• Women's Health (Aug 2024): "Is Beef Tallow really good for your skin? Here's what dermatologists think."
• Forbes (Dec 2024): "Beef tallow. TikTok skincare trend. Here are the concerns."
• The Washington Post (Nov 2024): "The latest skincare trend. Beef fat. Yes, beef fat."
• Allure (Dec 2024): "Beef tallow. Skincare is a hard pass for dermatologists."

Ella explains that beef tallow, traditionally used as a moisturizer, is rich in fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, K, E) and fatty acids (oleic, palmitic, stearic, linoleic acid), which can theoretically nourish and repair the skin. Its fatty acid profile closely resembles human sebum, suggesting compatibility with natural skin oils. However, she notes the lack of extensive peer-reviewed studies specifically on beef tallow's skin benefits, though existing research supports some of its purported properties.

Maggie counters Ella’s points by emphasizing that plant-based fats have historically dominated skincare for reasons of sustainability, scent, and skin compatibility. She questions the necessity of reintroducing animal fats, arguing that other ingredients can achieve similar benefits without the drawbacks. Maggie also highlights practical concerns:

• Stability: Beef tallow can go rancid, leading to unpleasant odors.
• Comedogenicity: Contrary to some claims, dermatologists argue beef tallow is comedogenic and likely to cause breakouts.
• Ethical Sourcing: Raises questions about the sourcing practices of beef tallow suppliers.

Ella shares her personal trial with a beef tallow balm purchased at a farmer’s market. Initially, it seemed effective in moisturizing her feet, especially important for maintaining soft heels while wearing Birkenstocks. However, prolonged use under socks led to her feet becoming excessively dry, as the tallow seemingly inhibited her skin’s natural moisture production. Ella concludes that the lack of a synergistic formulation—relying solely on beef tallow without complementary ingredients—was detrimental to her skin health. She reverted to a more balanced body butter containing silk proteins, which promoted hydration without disrupting her skin’s natural functions.

Maggie supports Ella's experience, expressing hope that the beef tallow trend is fleeting and emphasizing the importance of balanced formulations that work harmoniously with the skin.

Conclusion and Call to Action [22:26 – End]

Ella encourages listeners to share their thoughts and experiences with beef tallow in skincare via Instagram, Facebook, or email. She reiterates the importance of professional insights in navigating volatile skincare trends and invites continued engagement with ASCP Esty Talk for further discussions on relevant industry topics.

Notable Quotes:

• Ella Cressman [05:56]:

  "So if I had to ask you think about right now or even a couple months ago, what's your least favorite skin trend?"

• Maggie Stasik [16:32]:

  "And you just smearing grease all over your face."

• Ella Cressman [20:47]:

  "It turned off my natural moisture factor. I think having that much compatible, like, memetic sebum on my feet was like, oh, we're good. We don't have to do at work anymore."

• Maggie Stasik [19:13]:

  "It's not new, but that's what trends are to some extent. It's something that has been around and now somebody discovers it, it becomes new again."

Key Takeaways:

• Beef Tallow in Skincare: Despite traditional use and some theoretical benefits, modern professionals express significant concerns regarding its comedogenicity, stability, and ethical sourcing. Personal experiences shared by the hosts reveal practical drawbacks, suggesting the trend may not endure.

• Trend Origins and Professional Insight: Many current skincare trends originate from manufacturer-driven initiatives or viral social media content. Estheticians like Ella and Maggie emphasize the importance of critically evaluating trends rather than following them blindly.

• Importance of Formulation Balance: Effective skincare relies on balanced formulations that incorporate multiple synergistic ingredients, rather than relying on single, potentially problematic components.

For More Information: Visit Lamprobe.com for details on aesthetic tools featured in the podcast. To connect with Ella or Maggie or to learn more about ASCP, refer to the show notes and follow ASCP Esty Talk on social media.