Ep 298 – The Devil Wears (Beef) Tallow

Summary

ASCP Esty Talk: Ep 298 – The Devil Wears (Beef) Tallow

Hosts:

• Ella Cressman (B): Licensed esthetician, certified organic skincare formulator, international educator, and content contributor for Associated Skin Care Professionals.
• Maggie Stasik (C): Licensed esthetician and ASCP's education program manager.

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Introduction and Shout Out [00:52 – 02:36]

Ella Cressman opens the episode with a personal anecdote about attending her cousin’s wedding in Memphis, Tennessee, revealing her past as a makeup artist and her subsequent decision to retire from the profession. However, family events drew her back into the realm of beauty services, leading her to meet Mariah Ramos, a talented makeup artist at a med spa in Austin, Minnesota. Ella extends a warm shout out to Mariah, expressing her appreciation for her skills and encouraging her to join future podcast episodes.

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Connecting Pop Culture to Skincare Trends [02:36 – 05:56]

The conversation shifts to the iconic movie "The Devil Wears Prada," specifically a scene where Meryl Streep’s character, Miranda Priestly, critiques fashion trends. Ella draws a parallel between the film’s commentary on fashion and the current state of skincare trends. She highlights how trends often originate from manufacturers—be it product manufacturers or ingredient suppliers—and questions how estheticians perceive these trends once they hit the mainstream.

Ella cites a Facebook group discussion from the Esthetician Support Group initiated by Dani McKnight, which asks, “What’s everyone’s least favorite skin trend right now?” This sets the stage for an exploration of unpopular or controversial trends within the skincare industry.

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Current Least Favorite Skin Trends [05:56 – 10:37]

Maggie shares her disdain for fleeting trends such as snail mucin and contouring with sunscreen, labeling them as nonsensical from a professional esthetician’s perspective.

Ella adds to the list with salmon as a dubious trend, questioning its relevance and practicality in skincare.

They present the results of Dani McKnight’s poll, revealing over 250 comments. Before delving into the top three least favorite trends, they discuss honorable mentions:

1. Jelly Masks:

   • Maggie admits she’s not a fan, finding them claustrophobic and ineffective.
   • Ella echoes this sentiment, sharing a negative personal experience where jelly masks felt messy and uncomfortable.

2. Brow Laminations, Tints, and Airbrushing:

   • Maggie differentiates between traditional tinting (a long-standing practice) and newer trends like laminations, which she believes are unnecessary or overhyped.
   • Ella notes the occasional success of brow lamination but remains generally critical.

3. Skincare Products for Kids and Teenagers Not Suited for Their Skin:

   • Maggie highlights concerns about younger generations using products that may not be appropriate for their skin types, emphasizing the importance of tailored skincare.

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Top Three Least Favorite Skin Trends [10:37 – 22:26]

3. At-Home Dermaplaning [08:43 – 09:47]

Ella identifies at-home dermaplaning (shaving one’s own face) as a controversial trend. While she personally practices it and appreciates its benefits, she acknowledges differing opinions among professionals. Maggie humorously comments on Ella’s facial hair, reinforcing their playful dynamic.

2. Glass Skin [09:47 – 10:37]

Glass skin—a trend aiming for a flawless, dewy complexion—is met with mixed feelings:

• Ella criticizes it for potentially exacerbating oiliness and compromising the skin barrier.
• Maggie concedes that while it can enhance certain skin types, it may appear greasy or unnatural on others.

1. Beef Tallow [10:37 – 22:26]

Beef tallow emerges as the number one least favorite skin trend, sparking an in-depth discussion:

Ella introduces beef tallow as a resurfacing trend popularized on platforms like TikTok and Instagram. She references several reputable sources expressing skepticism:

• Verywell Health (Nov 27, 2024): "Beef fat is the Internet's new skincare obsession. Is it worth the hype? Ew."
• Women's Health (Aug 2024): "Is Beef Tallow really good for your skin? Here's what dermatologists think."
• Forbes (Dec 2024): "Beef tallow. TikTok skincare trend. Here are the concerns."
• The Washington Post (Nov 2024): "The latest skincare trend. Beef fat. Yes, beef fat."
• Allure (Dec 2024): "Beef tallow. Skincare is a hard pass for dermatologists."

Ella explains that beef tallow, traditionally used as a moisturizer, is rich in fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, K, E) and fatty acids (oleic, palmitic, stearic, linoleic acid), which can theoretically nourish and repair the skin. Its fatty acid profile closely resembles human sebum, suggesting compatibility with natural skin oils. However, she notes the lack of extensive peer-reviewed studies specifically on beef tallow's skin benefits, though existing research supports some of its purported properties.

Maggie counters Ella’s points by emphasizing that plant-based fats have historically dominated skincare for reasons of sustainability, scent, and skin compatibility. She questions the necessity of reintroducing animal fats, arguing that other ingredients can achieve similar benefits without the drawbacks. Maggie also highlights practical concerns:

• Stability: Beef tallow can go rancid, leading to unpleasant odors.
• Comedogenicity: Contrary to some claims, dermatologists argue beef tallow is comedogenic and likely to cause breakouts.
• Ethical Sourcing: Raises questions about the sourcing practices of beef tallow suppliers.

Ella shares her personal trial with a beef tallow balm purchased at a farmer’s market. Initially, it seemed effective in moisturizing her feet, especially important for maintaining soft heels while wearing Birkenstocks. However, prolonged use under socks led to her feet becoming excessively dry, as the tallow seemingly inhibited her skin’s natural moisture production. Ella concludes that the lack of a synergistic formulation—relying solely on beef tallow without complementary ingredients—was detrimental to her skin health. She reverted to a more balanced body butter containing silk proteins, which promoted hydration without disrupting her skin’s natural functions.

Maggie supports Ella's experience, expressing hope that the beef tallow trend is fleeting and emphasizing the importance of balanced formulations that work harmoniously with the skin.

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Conclusion and Call to Action [22:26 – End]

Ella encourages listeners to share their thoughts and experiences with beef tallow in skincare via Instagram, Facebook, or email. She reiterates the importance of professional insights in navigating volatile skincare trends and invites continued engagement with ASCP Esty Talk for further discussions on relevant industry topics.

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Notable Quotes:

• Ella Cressman [05:56]:

  "So if I had to ask you think about right now or even a couple months ago, what's your least favorite skin trend?"

• Maggie Stasik [16:32]:

  "And you just smearing grease all over your face."

• Ella Cressman [20:47]:

  "It turned off my natural moisture factor. I think having that much compatible, like, memetic sebum on my feet was like, oh, we're good. We don't have to do at work anymore."

• Maggie Stasik [19:13]:

  "It's not new, but that's what trends are to some extent. It's something that has been around and now somebody discovers it, it becomes new again."

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Key Takeaways:

• Beef Tallow in Skincare: Despite traditional use and some theoretical benefits, modern professionals express significant concerns regarding its comedogenicity, stability, and ethical sourcing. Personal experiences shared by the hosts reveal practical drawbacks, suggesting the trend may not endure.

• Trend Origins and Professional Insight: Many current skincare trends originate from manufacturer-driven initiatives or viral social media content. Estheticians like Ella and Maggie emphasize the importance of critically evaluating trends rather than following them blindly.

• Importance of Formulation Balance: Effective skincare relies on balanced formulations that incorporate multiple synergistic ingredients, rather than relying on single, potentially problematic components.

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For More Information: Visit Lamprobe.com for details on aesthetic tools featured in the podcast. To connect with Ella or Maggie or to learn more about ASCP, refer to the show notes and follow ASCP Esty Talk on social media.

Transcript

[A]

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[B]

Foreign welcome to ASCP STTalk. I'm Ella Cressman, a licensed esthetician, certified organic skincare formulator, international educator and content contributor for Associated Skincare Professionals.

[C]

I'm Maggie Stasik, licensed esthetician and ASCP's education program manager.

[B]

We have a shout out. I'm so excited about this shout out. So about a month ago I was at my cousin's wedding and the long story short is, you know, I'm a makeup artist. Let me rephrase. You know, I was a makeup artist. I retired. I had the best wedding ever in Memphis, Tennessee. It's going out on top. I threw everything away. And then a couple years later my cousin called and she's like, can you do my makeup and my hair? I'm like, okay. Bought a bunch of stuff, went, went to that wedding, gave it away to the other makeup artists there. I'm like, here, take it. And then two weeks later, my other cousin, can you do my hair and makeup for my wedding? So long story short, I have one cousin left that I will do her hair and makeup for her wedding. But this was the second to the last and I love this family. This family is the only one I'll do it for. But anyways, very, very special to me. So we are in Austin, Minnesota getting ready and I meet Mariah Ramos and she is there doing everybody else's hair and makeup and she's so cute. So she works at a med spa in the Austin, Minnesota town and I had a great time with her. Super talented, super sweet. So I want to say hi Mariah, nice to meet you and thank you for listening to STTalk. So it's a good time. Next time we go, you have to come.

[C]

Yes, I would love to come.

[B]

Okay, cool. So do you remember before we get into today's subject, did you ever see the Devil Wears Prada of course.

[C]

Many times.

[B]

Such a good movie. Yeah. Do you remember that part where Meryl Streep's character, Miranda Priestley, she, like, goes off on him? Well, I guess she goes off on a couple times, but Anne Hathaway's character is. She ends up scoffing at them because they're going, I don't know which belt, this one or that one. And she goes. Because she's. They look both the same. So Miranda Priestley said something to the effect of, oh, something funny. And she's like, well, they look pretty much like the same thing. I'm just learning about this stuff. And then she launches in on her and says, like, one of my favorite quotes. But long story short, this part I just want to share with you. She said this stuff. Oh, okay. I see. You think this has nothing to do with you. You go to your closet and you select, I don't know, that lumpy blue sweater, for instance, because you're trying to tell the world that you don't take care of your. That you don't take yourself too seriously and care about what you put on your back. So she goes into explaining that lumpy blue sweater. She doesn't even understand that there's a correlation between these trends that were set that it's not turquoise, it's not lapis, it's actually curlean blue. And that curlean blue was a result of Yves Saint Laurent, who showed it in a military jacket on the couture Runway. And then it kind of took off. This trend translated and she said, and then it trickled down on into something tragic like Casual Corner, where you no doubt fished it out in some clearance bin. You remember that part?

[C]

I do, yeah.

[B]

I loved that part because she was like, oh, no. You don't even know that you are in on this too, even though you're scoffing at it. So it made me think, because we often see other trends, whether food, care, fashion, they end up in esthetics or vice versa, aesthetic trends will influence the world. But we focus a lot on perceived trends, what's coming up, what's going to be popular, and don't really consider, like, where they're coming from. And the truth is, a lot of it's coming from manufacturers. Whether it's product manufacturers or ingredient suppliers, they're the ones that are driving the trends. But one thing that we don't consider is what are the professionals really think about those trends once they get there, once they're mainstream, what do the pros think? So, of course, I'm Creeping. I feel like I have to keep you in the loop. I'm creeping on social media and I come across this post that I thought was hilarious. It reminded me of this scene. So what they posted and I have to give credit to who it is, but it's from an esthetician's point of view regarding trends. So it's from the Facebook group, esthetician support group. And I, I can't take credit. Again, it's Dani McKnight. So she posted back in November. So a while ago, what's everyone's least favorite skin trend right now? So if I had to ask you think about right now or even a couple months ago, what's your least favorite skin trend?

[C]

That is a really good question, Ella. I feel like there have been so many fleeting trends and we've talked a lot about them in the past year and I would have to say the ones that you just go, what? Like, you know, snail mucin or this probably wasn't 2024, but you know, contouring with your sunscreen, you know, I mean, just those silly ones that as an esthetician you go, what? That's not, that's not real.

[B]

Or the salmon one.

[C]

Yes, or the salmon one. Yeah.

[B]

Like, what is going on? Why is this one. So the results are in. So luckily Danny did us a service and reported the results. She said there were over two hundred and fifty comments. And before I get into the top three, let's talk about the honorable mentions. Jelly masks. I could see that, like falling out of favor. Did you. Have you ever tried a jelly mask?

[C]

Yeah, you know, I'm not a big masker just as a whole, and I can see the fun behind them. And so sure, they were trending for.

[B]

A while, but no, I hated them. Let me tell you, they were not fun for me either as a practitioner or a consumer. I think I'm a little claustrophobic. So I had a facial once where it went on and I was like, I wanted to pull it off. So not fun for me. And then when I, when I bought all this stuff, I did one treatment.

[C]

Okay.

[B]

It was a mess. It was horrible. And then it went into the cupboard. I think it's still there and I think it's probably expired. I don't even know. The next is brow laminations, tents and airbrushing. What do you think about that?

[C]

You know, I would. First of all, I would not clump them all into the same category. I get it. But I love tinting. Tinting has been around for decades. I don't consider that a trend. And I think it'll always be something people do. Laminations, Sure. I did not get into it. There's a few people that loved it. Kick it to the curb.

[B]

Out of Maggie's book. Out, out.

[C]

And then you said spray tanning or airbrushing.

[B]

I don't remember. Maybe airbrushing brows.

[C]

Okay.

[B]

I don't know.

[C]

To me, my mind went to tanning.

[B]

Yeah.

[C]

But I don't know.

[B]

I don't know. Brow lamination. You know, I did see it work for one. This client had a. Like a cowlick in her eyebrow that made it go in. It was so severe and it made her look like she had a bald spot. So it worked for her. I never got one. I wanted to just so I could have that experience. But perming them up just feels a little counterintuitive for me. I always want to, like, brush them to the side, but yep, I get that. Okay. And then the last of the honorable mentions is kids, teenagers, using skincare not suited for their skin.

[C]

Uh huh. We talked about that.

[B]

Yeah. I think there's a plus and a minus here.

[C]

Is that a trend? I think that's the generation.

[B]

Yeah. Generational. Yeah. So for the generation, at least they're more aware of skin care, but they're not using the right thing. So something to think about. So are you ready for the top three? Tell me number three at home, dermaplaning. I get it. AKA shaving your own face.

[C]

Okay. I do that, I do that and I love it. And I will never stop.

[B]

Yeah, I don't see the big deal. Ella's like, yeah, yeah, don't stop, won't stop, should stop. I don't know. You look good.

[C]

Oh, thanks, girl.

[B]

Maybe you know it. I think there's like, you know how to do it. That's. You look good. Thanks.

[C]

I sit here every day on this podcast and think, look at that skin.

[B]

Okay, well, don't get too close because I do not shave my face every day. So I have. I do have a mustache, in fact.

[C]

So maybe this is like proof in the pudding. I need to stop shaving my face.

[B]

Stop. Don't stop.

[C]

Okay.

[B]

You look great.

[C]

Thank you.

[B]

Okay, next is glass skin. What about glass skin?

[C]

You know, I don't know. I could go either way because there are some skin types where glass it up and you look beautiful and you're shiny and slick and then other people where they look like a grease oven and they need to stop.

[B]

I tried to get it too, but I think for me, if you have glass skin. You're either oily or your barriers like, like you're. You've over exfoliated. Yeah, but I've also seen like the retinol face.

[C]

Yeah, but you know what, if you're like, if you have a little baby doll face and it's glassy, it could be very pretty.

[B]

Sure, I think people are pretty, but I don't. I never thought the appeal of seeking that out. Okay, I guess I think it's stupid.

[C]

Okay, Ella has spoken.

[B]

Crusty, rusty, esty over here. Spoken. Are you ready for the number one?

[C]

Yeah.

[B]

Beef tallow.

[C]

Okay, you're gonna tell us all about the beef tallow. I will tallow and then I will weigh in.

[B]

Okay, so you want. You don't wanna tell us right now? 1. So Kira, that works with me, she had reached out like us maybe six or seven months ago, and she's like, what do you think about beef tallow? I was like, dumb. So dumb. Why would anybody wanna do that? I knew that previously we had used beef tallow from rendering plants as society for cosmetics. I'm like, we're so beyond that. Why would we even want to do that? She was like, oh, it's all over TikTok. And I'm not on TikTok. I just watch the reels on Instagram. So I'm like, it's just ignore it. Don't worry about it. Well, guess what? I don't know if my algorithms were initiated or what, but I start seeing it more and more and more and hearing more and more about it. In fact, I was not alone. So beef tallow is making headlines. Girl, let me tell you. Here are a few of my very favorites, and it's not just from TikTok, so. Verywell Health, November 27, 2024. Here's the headline. Beef fat is the Internet's new skincare obsession. Is it worth the hype? Ew. When you think about it that way, no thanks. Women's Health, August 2024. Is Beef Tallow really good for your skin? Here's what dermatologists think. Forbes magazine, December 2024. Beef tallow. TikTok skincare trend. Here are the concerns. So we're starting to get into it. The Washington Post, November 2024. The latest skincare trend. Beef fat. Yes, beef fat. And then my favorite is from Allure. Also December 2024. Beef tallow. Skincare is a hard pass for dermatologists. So let's just talk about it. What is beef tallow? Why is everyone else thinking about it, talking about it? Or considering it. So as I said, it's a traditional moisturizer. It's rendered from what they're going to tell you is grass fed cattle, but it can be from any cattle. But a lot of these brands or companies are going to say it's you know, ethically sourced. Which brings up another point I'm going to ask in a little bit. But it's been a staple in skincare for centuries. There aren't many peer reviewed studies on it specifically examining the skin benefits, but there is still a lot of research on like some of the aspects of it. Particularly if we look back in 2017 they're talking about the moisturizing properties of it. In 2023 we had another study from Skin Pharmacology and Physiology discussing the fatty acid compound and that's effect on the barrier function. So examining it, here's what we know. It's rich in fat soluble vitamins like vitamin A, D, K and E. And so we know all of those nourish the skin, promote repair, promote regeneration. Okay, right, not that bad. And then it also replenishes the fatty acids in the skin. We're talking about oleic, palmitic, stearic and linoleic acid. So these again are also supporting the barrier function, fortifying the skin's protective, which is everybody else is talking about that now too. For a long time we were just as I like to say, turning and burning it and now we're really focused on protecting the barrier and not making the skin vulnerable. Here's another thing that's interesting is that it's similar to human sebum and that's due to the fatty acid profile. So it closely mimics our natural oil. So if we're putting it on that it should be well recognized. And when we're thinking about even though it's heavy and it's thick, it shouldn't cause more oil production or less oil production. But this is why it's theorized to make an excellent moisturizer especially for damaged skin. And we're thinking about compromise from over treated or we're thinking about maybe a lot more presentation of like autoimmune effects on the skin in particular. So think about that. And then it's gentle and reported as non comedogenic. So unlike some synthetic ingredients, it's not likely to clog your pores. You already know my thoughts on the comedogenic scale. But if you, which I think is, listen, we have an episode, go back and check it. But this interesting because if you go back to Those headlines, this, these dermatologists are like, no, it's comedogenic. It's absolutely gonna cause breakouts in everybody's skin. It seems to be there's all or nothing.

[C]

I think my gut reaction, those headlines have it right. And we traditionally have had skincare products that are centered on plant based fats, not animal fats for many reasons. But all of these points that you have made about, you know, rich in the vitamins and the fatty acids and it's going to support the barrier. There are many ingredients that do that, not just beef fat. And I think this is, I hope this is a fleeting trend. I believe that this is, you know, maybe one person or a handful of people that said, while we're using, you know, X, Y, Z ingredient over here, let's try beef fat. However they came to that conclusion, I don't know. And it, I don't know, started trending, went viral and now everybody's in on it and you're just smearing grease all over your face. Not to mention this is not really a stable product. Would you pull fat off of your steak from the fridge? And this is going extreme, but would you do that and then spread it on your skin?

[B]

No, no, no.

[C]

And that's going to go rancid over time as well. All, all ingredients do. But that's going to go rancid. It's going to smell, it's not nice. Of course it's comedogenic.

[B]

That's what they said. They said like one of the biggest drawbacks is the scent of it. And so they're putting it again. It might be kind of stinky, but it works. And then I was talking to Kira again. I said, I think, you know, this is an interesting subject. And she goes, yeah, on TikTok it's or Reddit even. It worked for me. And somebody else is saying it didn't work for me. Well, of course not, because you have many different skin types. So nothing is going to work for everyone. But what I hear you saying is that you think this trend will be the curlean blue, like Miranda Priestly said, where it's like it came from somewhere. But is this really gonna last? Like, is it gonna die off hopefully? Well, I'm not gonna put my opinion in yet, but will it die off? I think so. I think you're right. Where it started from. It feels like, like just kind of digging back. I think that it started from like, I don't wanna call em farmer's market formulators, but for that and maybe that's because that's where I got mine from.

[C]

Yeah, a hundred percent. And you know what this makes me think of too is like when you go to the farmer's market and you can find all kinds of skincare products, lotions, soaps, you name it. And not just beef tallow, but goat's milk for instance, or you know, fill in the blank, your farm to skin products and beef tallow is one of them.

[B]

Yeah, and I think that, exactly, I think this is, let's just say that this, this is what happened. I think it was a farmer's market farm to face product that some tiktoker got a hold of and it made it viral and then people started adding it more and more and more and more. So I guess I have another question here. It's what happened to the vegan skincare movement? Because you just talked about goat's milk. There's other animal or mammalian product byproducts coming out which I never had a problem with. I, I look, I love beeswax and honey, but so what, what happened to that?

[C]

Yeah, you know, earlier when we were going through the headlines, what was going through my head is what's old is new again. That's what this is. I feel like this is an ingredient that has been used probably for centuries. It's not new, but that's what trends are to some extent. It's something that has been around and now somebody discovers it, it becomes new again. Like oh my God. Did you know beef tallow will moisturize your skin? Yeah, we have known for a hundred years.

[B]

But why did we stop? That's another question.

[C]

Yeah, because it's a trend. It comes and goes. And the trend that then entered was let's be clean and green, let's use plants instead. Plants are probably more sustainable. Plants are probably better for your skin. Plants don't smell like a steak smeared across your face.

[B]

Hopefully not a seasoned steak.

[C]

Garlic, Right, Right. That would smell better.

[B]

Yeah. So do you think the estes in this non official poll are in, are not in favorite because it started as a TikTok trend or they don't want to smell like garlic steak?

[C]

Both.

[B]

Both. Yeah. Well I mentioned I tried it because you know, I don't shy away from a trend.

[C]

Yeah.

[B]

Let me try it. Guess where I got mine?

[C]

At the farmer's market.

[B]

At the farmer's market, pretty much. So it was this tallow balm and I want to share my experience. This is my, I mean there was no scientific studies done on this, but I feel like a Good anecdotal experience is pretty relevant. So I got it, and I was super pumped because I wear Birkenstocks. So we know that. We in the Birkenstock club know what that means. That means you use beef tallow on my feet, it gets crunchy. You got to keep them soft and supple. But something about Birkenstock, I think that.

[C]

Doubles down on the smell.

[B]

Ella, the beef tallow. No, no, no. Um, but I started using it and then throughout the fall under socks at night, and my feet got more dry. It felt really good in the moment, and it felt really good for, like, a couple days, but my feet got super dry. And you know what I think?

[C]

Yeah, tell us.

[B]

It turned off my natural moisture factor. I think having that much compatible, like, memetic sebum on my feet was like, oh, we're good. We don't have to do at work anymore. Because that's what it felt like.

[C]

Yeah, I could totally agree with that. I mean, beef tallow is not the only ingredient that has the potential to do that.

[B]

Yeah, exactly. Like, there's other ones. Like, you don't. The key to me with any ingredient, or really it's more about the formulation.

[C]

Yeah.

[B]

Because there should be some synergy in a formulation that's gonna say this one ingredient and this one ingredient and this one ingredient. They make your body systems, your skin focus, function as an organ more efficiently.

[C]

Yeah.

[B]

And so I think just this single ingredient that I had and I think maybe some orange essential oil, I don't know. But this single ingredient product didn't have that same synergy, that same holistic communication with my body. So my body's like, oh, we're good. We don't need to produce anymore. We're so good. So I returned to using my other body butter that has silk proteins in it. So that silk protein is going to encourage drawing moisture in, hydration in, and then encourage the rest of the synergy of that ingredients, encourage normal proliferation and different things. So my. By all reports, my skin is good, my feet are soft. Again, my husband's thankful, but I will not use a single ingredient, beef tallow, anymore. So there you have it. What do you think about that?

[C]

So interesting. Yeah, I can see that it would turn off your natural moisture factors and everything you just said, and I hope this is a trend that is fleeting and it goes quickly.

[B]

We'll see. Now, listeners, we really want to hear from you. What are your thoughts on beef tallow and skincare? Reach out via Instagram, Facebook, or send us an email@getconnected scpskincare.com we want to know all the details. In the meantime, thank you for listening to ASCP STTalk. For more information on this episode, or for ways to connect with Maggie or myself, or to learn more about ascp, check out the show notes and stay tuned for the next episode of ASCP STTalk.