Ep 307 – The Rogue Pharmacist: Vitamin E

Summary

ASCP Esty Talk: Episode 307 – The Rogue Pharmacist: Vitamin E

Release Date: February 28, 2025

Hosted by:
Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP)
Maggie Stasik, Program Director

Guest Speaker:
Benjamin Knife Fuchs, Skincare Formulator and Pharmacist

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Introduction

In Episode 307 of ASCP Esty Talk, titled "The Rogue Pharmacist: Vitamin E", host Maggie Stasik delves deep into the multifaceted role of Vitamin E in skincare. Joined by Benjamin Knife Fuchs, a seasoned skincare formulator and pharmacist, the discussion unravels the complexities of Vitamin E, its various forms, and its true benefits (01:12).

The Complexity of Vitamin E

Benjamin Fuchs begins by clarifying a common misconception about Vitamin E. Unlike other vitamins, Vitamin E is not a single entity but a complex comprising eight different forms. These are categorized into two primary groups: tocopherols and tocotrienols, each with four variants—alpha, beta, delta, and gamma (01:44).

"Vitamin E is a complex, and what we call vitamin E is made up of eight different forms..."
— Ben Fuchs [01:44]

He highlights the natural coexistence of these forms in their native state, a synergy often lost in commercial skincare formulations where alpha tocopherol predominates due to cost and ease of extraction (02:10).

Vitamin E Shortage and Its Implications

Fuchs sheds light on a pressing issue: the global shortage of Vitamin E, primarily driven by geopolitical tensions such as the Ukraine war. Ukraine is a major exporter of Vitamin E-rich sunflower oil, and the ongoing conflict has significantly curtailed supply, driving up prices and limiting availability for formulators (02:13).

"Vitamin E is One of the main exporters of vitamin E is the Ukraine..."
— Ben Fuchs [02:15]

Vitamin E in Skincare Products

Despite its prevalence in skincare, Fuchs emphasizes that most products only feature alpha tocopherol, neglecting the full spectrum of Vitamin E's forms that work synergistically in nature (02:45). This isolation not only reduces efficacy but also overlooks the comprehensive protective benefits that mixed tocopherols and tocotrienols offer.

He points out that Vitamin E in skincare is often included not for its direct skin benefits but as a preservative to protect the oils within the product from oxidation (05:45).

The Role and Risks of Seed Oils

A critical segment of the discussion focuses on seed oils in skincare. Fuchs argues that seed oils are inherently unstable and prone to oxidation, leading to the formation of pro-aging compounds when incorporated into creams and lotions (05:07).

"If you see a vegetable on a skincare product, that's a bad thing. That's a bad sign..."
— Ben Fuchs [10:45]

He advises estheticians to avoid products containing seed oils like corn, safflower, almond, macadamia nut, hazelnut, and grapeseed oil, as these can compromise skin health by preventing the skin's natural functions of gas exchange and moisture retention (10:32).

Vitamin E's Benefits for the Skin

Sun Protection and Hyperpigmentation Prevention

When applied topically, Vitamin E serves as an effective sun protective agent. Fuchs explains that it helps dampen solar energy and prevent hyperpigmentation associated with sun exposure and hormonal imbalances (07:30).

"Vitamin E is one of the best sun protective ingredients you can use..."
— Ben Fuchs [07:45]

Wound Healing and Scar Prevention

While Vitamin E cannot eliminate existing scars—a common myth—it plays a pivotal role in accelerating the healing process and preventing scar formation. Fuchs recommends high-dose Vitamin E supplementation (1,200 IU daily) to aid in rapid wound healing without significant side effects (09:15).

"Vitamin E is not going to help you with a scar, but it may help prevent the formation of scarring..."
— Ben Fuchs [09:00]

Fertility and Hormonal Balance

Beyond topical applications, Vitamin E's role as a fertility vitamin is discussed. Its ability to protect fats in sperm and egg cells underscores its importance in reproductive health. Additionally, Vitamin E, along with Vitamin A, helps balance estrogen and cortisol, making it beneficial for individuals dealing with elevated stress hormones (10:32).

Critique of Traditional Moisturizers

Fuchs presents a bold critique of conventional moisturizers, labeling them as "anti-moisturizers." He argues that by containing oils, these products occlude the skin, hindering its natural ability to retain moisture and breathe. This obstruction forces the skin to rely on artificial products for softness, leading to widespread dryness despite the booming moisturizer market (12:00).

"A moisturizer is really an anti moisturizer..."
— Ben Fuchs [12:30]

Instead, he advocates for exfoliation and stimulation to activate the skin's inherent moisture-producing mechanisms, thereby strengthening the skin barrier and enhancing its ability to trap ambient humidity (13:45).

Synergistic Effects with Other Nutrients

In the realm of skincare nutrients, Vitamin E doesn't work in isolation. Fuchs highlights its synergistic relationship with other antioxidants like Vitamin C and selenium. These nutrients mutually enhance each other's efficacy, promoting a more comprehensive approach to skin health (14:14).

"Vitamin E makes vitamin C better. Vitamin C makes vitamin E better..."
— Ben Fuchs [14:21]

Conclusions

Episode 307 of ASCP Esty Talk offers a comprehensive exploration of Vitamin E, challenging conventional practices and emphasizing a holistic approach to skincare. Benjamin Knife Fuchs underscores the importance of understanding the complexity of Vitamin E, its proper utilization, and the limitations of traditional skincare products. For estheticians seeking to elevate their practice, this episode serves as an invaluable resource in redefining skincare with informed, evidence-based strategies.

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For More Information:
To connect with Benjamin Knife Fuchs or explore more about ASCP, visit truthtreatmentspro.com.

Transcript

[Benjamin Knife Fuchs]

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[Maggie Stasik]

Hello and welcome to ASCP and the Rogue Pharmacist with Benjamin Knight Fuchs. In each episode, we'll explore how internal and external factors can impact the skin. I'm Maggie Stasik, ASCP's program director and and joining me is Ben Fuchs, skincare formulator and pharmacist. Hey, Ben.

[Benjamin Knife Fuchs]

Hello, Maggie.

[Maggie Stasik]

As estheticians, we're constantly on the lookout for ingredients that nourish and protect the skin. And vitamin E is often at the top of that list. But beyond the buzzwords, do we really know why it's so effective in skincare?

[Benjamin Knife Fuchs]

Yeah, absolutely we do. So vitamin E, it's very unusual because it's not. There's no real vitamin E. There's eight different types of vitamin E. Vitamin E is a complex and what we call vitamin E is made up of eight different form which come in two different varieties. They call them tocopherols and tocotrienols. Have you heard those terms? I have tocopherols and tocotrienols. So there's four tocopherols and there's four tocotrienols and in nature they're all found together. By the way, you know there's a big vitamin E shortage.

[Maggie Stasik]

I did not know that.

[Benjamin Knife Fuchs]

Yes. You know why?

[Maggie Stasik]

No, tell me.

[Benjamin Knife Fuchs]

Because of the Ukraine war.

[Maggie Stasik]

Oh.

[Benjamin Knife Fuchs]

It turns out that vitamin E is One of the main exporters of vitamin E is the Ukraine. Interesting Vietnamese found in sunflower. And a lot of sunflowers are grown in the Ukraine. So because last three years, three or four years that they've been fighting over there, vegetable oil in general, because a lot of vegetable oil comes from the Ukraine too. And vitamin E has been in much shorter supply and expensive for formulators like myself. So vitamin E, there's eight different forms of vitamin E. Four tocopherols, four tocotrienols, and they pretty much in nature they're found together as we tend to do in our modern day world. As we separate things out, we isolate them. And most of the vitamin E that you'll see in skincare products is alpha tocopherol. But there's also beta tocopherol, delta tocopherol and gamma tocopherol. And there's alpha tocotrienol and beta tocotrienol and delta and gamma tocotrienol. And there's eight altogether. And in food, in nature, you really want to get all eight. In the skincare, we don't do that. It's much more expensive to try to get all eight. It's much cheaper and easier to just have the alpha tocopherol. So that's the one you tend to see. It's not that big a deal, but if you really want to do it right, you want what's called mixed tocopherols and mixed tocotrienols. Very rarely will you see that in topical skincare. More frequently you'll see it in nutritional supplements. And if you're going to supplement with vitamin E, it is definitely a good idea to supplement with vitamin E. You want to look for the mixed forms, mixed tocopherols and mixed tocotrienols. And really the best way to get vitamin E in your system is to supplement with it. It's hard to find in food the most abundant sources of vitamin E or sunflower, sunflower oil or sunflower seeds actually. But you got to eat like a bathtub full of sunflower seeds to get a really good dose of vitamin A supplement. And it's pretty cheap as supplements, so that's really the best way to do it. Vitamin stands out when it comes to vitamins because it's not really incorporated into biochemistry. Vitamins tend to be incorporated into biochemistry and they assist chemical reactions, they make things happen. But with vitamin E, it's not in chemical reactions really, it's a guardian. And that's why vitamin E is found in fats, seeds, particularly in grains. Those are the main sources of vitamin E, seeds, nuts and grains. Because vitamin E is used by nature to protect oils. That's its real role, is to protect fats. And that's why it has such important relevance for the skin, which I'll talk about here in a second. So vitamin E's main role is not to be involved in chemistry as much as it's to be a guardian, to be a protector. And nature uses the protective properties, which are really antioxidant properties of vitamin E to protect fats. And whenever you have high concentrations of fats, you'll find vitamin E. And that's why vitamin is found in seeds, because seeds have high concentrations of fats. So nature uses vitamin E to protect the fats. Now, I don't know if you've been hearing about this, but over the last year or so, couple years, maybe people have been starting to notice or start to at least talk about seed oils as being problematic. Have you been hearing about that?

[Maggie Stasik]

I haven't, no.

[Benjamin Knife Fuchs]

So I've always said that. And I never use seed oils, I never use vegetable oils in my products for that reason. Because vegetable oils and oils in general are very unstable. That's why we use oils for fuel. The instability of oils lends them, makes them, makes the energy within the oil more available. Instability is kind of interesting in nature because when something's unstable breaks down quickly, but that very breakdown quickly, instability allows energy to be released. And this is why we can run our cars and our machinery, heavy machinery on oil, because oil is very unstable. The problem with instability is dual edged sword. And while it does release energy, it can also cause damage. That damage is what we call oxidation. And so nature protects its oils with antioxidants. Vitamin E being, if not the most important, one of the most important antioxidants for fats. And that's its real role. The thing about seed oils is because they're unstable, when they're cooked into a cream or into a lotion, they're actually turned into pro aging compounds. In fact, even before the cosmetic company buys the oil, they're buying a degraded form of oil. Cosmetic grade oil is not a food grade oil, it's a degraded form of oil. So you should never put seed oils on your skin, any kind of oil. Which is kind of interesting because the second or third ingredient deck on most moisturizers, I'm doing little air quotes here on most moisturizers is oil, vegetable oil. And I as a formulator and hopefully estheticians out there can tell about the sophistication of a formulation or the skin care, the skin friendliness of a skincare company that's selling formulations by the appearance of vegetable oils. If you see a vegetable on a skincare product, that's a bad thing. That's a bad sign, in my opinion. Now, vitamin E, as it turns out, can be used to protect oils and skin care products. And that's its main role. And you will see vitamin E and skincare products. That's not there as an ingredient in order to help the skin, but is there as a protective molecule, in essence a preservative to protect the oil in the skincare product. Now, if you don't use oil, you have to worry about it. But if you do have oil, there are other antioxidants. You sometimes see BHT or bha. But vitamin E is like a natural antioxidant for protecting the oils and skincare products. Vitamin E applied topically, however, can give you some protective benefits. And in fact, it's one of the best sun protective ingredients you can use. And smart sun protective formulations will take advantage of vitamin E because of its sun protective properties. Vitamin E can also help because of its ability to kind of dampen solar energy, can help prevent hyperpigmentation that's related to the sun. Now, hyperpigmentation has other causes. We'll talk about that in a little bit. But for hyperpigmentation, that's related directly to solar exposure in hormonally unstable skin, vitamin E can protect the skin. Vitamin E can also accelerate the healing process by virtue of its antioxidant and protective protective properties. So if you have a burn or you have a wound, putting vitamin E directly on the skin, either by breaking open a capsule, stick a pin in it and put it right on your skin. What it won't do is it won't get rid of a scar. And that's a myth. And scar removal in general is a myth because. So when people say what can I do for this scar? It's kind of a misunderstanding of what a scar is because by definition you're not getting rid of a scar. By definition, a scar is literally something that's permanent or semi permanent at least. So vitamin E is not going to help you with a scar, but it may help prevent the formation of scarring. And that's really what the goal should be when you have a wound, is to prevent the formation. And so using vitamin E as you're healing topically can help prevent the, can help prevent the formation of scars. But you can't put vitamin E on a scar and then expect it to go away. But that's also very interesting. What I found is one of the best things you could do if you have a burn or traumatized skin is take super high doses of vitamin A. And my super high doses, I'm talking like 1200 international units a day for like two weeks or so. It's pretty much non toxic vitamin. You're not gonna really have any side effects or anything like that. And that's a big, that's a big dose. But you'll find that your wounds heal very, very quickly when you use high doses. 1200iu of vitamin E a day. Now, when I say high doses, I mean compared to the standard dose. The standard dose of vitamin e is about 400iu. The RDA is like maybe a 20th of that. I think it's like 20, 20iu or something like that. So by taking four, three or four times the standard 400iu dose, 1,200 to 1,600iu a day for maybe a couple weeks or 10 days or so, you can get some dramatic healing. And I highly recommend that people do that if they have a burn or they have some kind of wound that they don't want to have scar. Vitamin E is hard to find in food. You're not going to really get vitamin E in food. And by the way, the word tocopherol means to bear children. And that's because sperm and egg are especially protected by fats. And vitamin E's ability to protect the fats in all cells in all membranes, but particularly sperm and egg makes it a fertility vitamin. And it's one of the nutrients that women who are dealing with elevated cortisol might want to consider taking. Elevated cortisol being one of the causes of infertility. And along the same lines, vitamin A and vitamin E have estrogen balancing effects and cortisol balancing effects. They're anti stress, both vitamin A and E both being fat soluble vitamins.

[Maggie Stasik]

You had said in your ingredient deck, if you're seeing vegetable oil listed, I mean, you won't read an ingredient deck that says quote unquote, vegetable oil.

[Benjamin Knife Fuchs]

But are you referring to like a.

[Maggie Stasik]

Safflower or a sunflower or things of that?

[Benjamin Knife Fuchs]

Exactly, exactly. Sometimes you'll actually see the words vegetable oil. But yeah, you're right, most of the time you'll see corn, safflowers, almond oil, Sometimes it'll be fancy macadamia nut oil or hazelnut oil or something like that. Grapeseed oil, as it turns out the more exotic oils tend to be the most unstable oils. It's really, there's no benefit to an oil on the skin that's not fresh. Now if you take the, you take the safflower, the sunflower, you squeeze it and you, you know, you get fresh oil, cold pressed oil, you're going to get some nutritional value. But that's not how oils are used in skincare products. So you get very little nutritional value. They're occlusive. It's kind of a, that's why I do the air quotes when I say moisturizer, because we have this, this kind of feeling, the sense that when we put something on our skin and we feel softness, that somehow we're doing something to our skin. When in reality, when you rub something on your skin, you feel softness. All you're really feeling is the interaction between the oil and the keratin on the surface of the skin. You haven't really done anything. You're feeling product essentially. But for some reason that feel gets interpreted as moisturization, when in fact it's anti moisturization. It's the opposite of moisturization because we know oil and water don't mix. So when you're feeling oil on the skin, you're feeling anti moisture. Now you could say, oh, well, you're trapping moisture in with your oils. But in reality what you're doing is you're occluding and you're keeping the skin from being able to do really its role, which is, number one, emitting gases, number two, sucking in oxygen. The skin is actually breathing, it's actually sucking in oxygen and emitting out waste. And you're keeping the skin from being able to do that. But even more importantly and functionally, you're shutting down the skin's ability to trap moisture from the air. One of the ways the skin stays soft and pliable is by trapping ambient humidity. And when you occlude, when you cover it up with waxes and with oils or so called moisturizers, you actually suppress that function. So this accounts for the fact that everybody uses a moisturizer and everybody has dry skin. You know, I mean, think about it. We sell $10 billion a year moisturizing products and everybody has dry skin. How can that possibly be? Well, the mechanism is your moisturizer is shutting down your skin's ability to moisturize, to moisturize itself. And so a moisturizer is really an anti moisturizer. The best way to really moisturize the skin is to do the Opposite of occlusion, which is exfoliation and stimulation, turning everything on. And as the cells are rising from the bottom to the top, they're actually dumping out their contents to become moisture factors. They're shape shifting within themselves to create moisture factors. And on top of everything else, they're strengthening the barrier so that your skin can actually trap water inside and suck more water up from the outside via ambient humidity. So moisturizers are really anti moisturizers. I love using nutrients in my skincare products. And I look at skin care, topical skin care, as an opportunity to dose the skin, to give the skin the essential nutrients that any other organ needs. I mean, we all know that if you want to have a healthy heart or a healthy spleen or healthy intestine, you use nutrients. You got to have nutrition. The skin should be the same way. To me, topical skincare is an opportunity to dose your skin with nutrients. And vitamin E is one of the most important of skin nutrients.

[Maggie Stasik]

Does vitamin E have the ability to enhance the effects of other skin vitamins or skin ingredients?

[Benjamin Knife Fuchs]

Well, you are a clever esthetician. That's absolutely the case. Yes. Vitamin E and really all antioxidants work together. So vitamin E makes vitamin C better. Vitamin E makes selenium better. Vitamin C makes vitamin E better. Selenium makes vitamin C better. And they all kind of work hand in hand. And yes, indeed, it's a good idea to have a whole spectrum of nutrients and antioxidants in a formulation because they all help each other work.

[Maggie Stasik]

That concludes our show for today and we thank you for listening. But if you just can't get enough of Ben Fuchs, the ASCP's rogue pharmacist, you can find him at truthtreatments. For more information on this episode or for ways to connect with Ben Fuchs or to learn more about ascp, check out the show notes.