ASCP Esty Talk: Episode 307 – The Rogue Pharmacist: Vitamin E

Release Date: February 28, 2025

Hosted by:
Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP)
Maggie Stasik, Program Director

Guest Speaker:
Benjamin Knife Fuchs, Skincare Formulator and Pharmacist

Introduction

In Episode 307 of ASCP Esty Talk, titled "The Rogue Pharmacist: Vitamin E", host Maggie Stasik delves deep into the multifaceted role of Vitamin E in skincare. Joined by Benjamin Knife Fuchs, a seasoned skincare formulator and pharmacist, the discussion unravels the complexities of Vitamin E, its various forms, and its true benefits (01:12).

The Complexity of Vitamin E

Benjamin Fuchs begins by clarifying a common misconception about Vitamin E. Unlike other vitamins, Vitamin E is not a single entity but a complex comprising eight different forms. These are categorized into two primary groups: tocopherols and tocotrienols, each with four variants—alpha, beta, delta, and gamma (01:44).

"Vitamin E is a complex, and what we call vitamin E is made up of eight different forms..."
— Ben Fuchs [01:44]

He highlights the natural coexistence of these forms in their native state, a synergy often lost in commercial skincare formulations where alpha tocopherol predominates due to cost and ease of extraction (02:10).

Vitamin E Shortage and Its Implications

Fuchs sheds light on a pressing issue: the global shortage of Vitamin E, primarily driven by geopolitical tensions such as the Ukraine war. Ukraine is a major exporter of Vitamin E-rich sunflower oil, and the ongoing conflict has significantly curtailed supply, driving up prices and limiting availability for formulators (02:13).

"Vitamin E is One of the main exporters of vitamin E is the Ukraine..."
— Ben Fuchs [02:15]

Vitamin E in Skincare Products

Despite its prevalence in skincare, Fuchs emphasizes that most products only feature alpha tocopherol, neglecting the full spectrum of Vitamin E's forms that work synergistically in nature (02:45). This isolation not only reduces efficacy but also overlooks the comprehensive protective benefits that mixed tocopherols and tocotrienols offer.

He points out that Vitamin E in skincare is often included not for its direct skin benefits but as a preservative to protect the oils within the product from oxidation (05:45).

The Role and Risks of Seed Oils

A critical segment of the discussion focuses on seed oils in skincare. Fuchs argues that seed oils are inherently unstable and prone to oxidation, leading to the formation of pro-aging compounds when incorporated into creams and lotions (05:07).

"If you see a vegetable on a skincare product, that's a bad thing. That's a bad sign..."
— Ben Fuchs [10:45]

He advises estheticians to avoid products containing seed oils like corn, safflower, almond, macadamia nut, hazelnut, and grapeseed oil, as these can compromise skin health by preventing the skin's natural functions of gas exchange and moisture retention (10:32).

Vitamin E's Benefits for the Skin

Sun Protection and Hyperpigmentation Prevention

When applied topically, Vitamin E serves as an effective sun protective agent. Fuchs explains that it helps dampen solar energy and prevent hyperpigmentation associated with sun exposure and hormonal imbalances (07:30).

"Vitamin E is one of the best sun protective ingredients you can use..."
— Ben Fuchs [07:45]

Wound Healing and Scar Prevention

While Vitamin E cannot eliminate existing scars—a common myth—it plays a pivotal role in accelerating the healing process and preventing scar formation. Fuchs recommends high-dose Vitamin E supplementation (1,200 IU daily) to aid in rapid wound healing without significant side effects (09:15).

"Vitamin E is not going to help you with a scar, but it may help prevent the formation of scarring..."
— Ben Fuchs [09:00]

Fertility and Hormonal Balance

Beyond topical applications, Vitamin E's role as a fertility vitamin is discussed. Its ability to protect fats in sperm and egg cells underscores its importance in reproductive health. Additionally, Vitamin E, along with Vitamin A, helps balance estrogen and cortisol, making it beneficial for individuals dealing with elevated stress hormones (10:32).

Critique of Traditional Moisturizers

Fuchs presents a bold critique of conventional moisturizers, labeling them as "anti-moisturizers." He argues that by containing oils, these products occlude the skin, hindering its natural ability to retain moisture and breathe. This obstruction forces the skin to rely on artificial products for softness, leading to widespread dryness despite the booming moisturizer market (12:00).

"A moisturizer is really an anti moisturizer..."
— Ben Fuchs [12:30]

Instead, he advocates for exfoliation and stimulation to activate the skin's inherent moisture-producing mechanisms, thereby strengthening the skin barrier and enhancing its ability to trap ambient humidity (13:45).

Synergistic Effects with Other Nutrients

In the realm of skincare nutrients, Vitamin E doesn't work in isolation. Fuchs highlights its synergistic relationship with other antioxidants like Vitamin C and selenium. These nutrients mutually enhance each other's efficacy, promoting a more comprehensive approach to skin health (14:14).

"Vitamin E makes vitamin C better. Vitamin C makes vitamin E better..."
— Ben Fuchs [14:21]

Conclusions

Episode 307 of ASCP Esty Talk offers a comprehensive exploration of Vitamin E, challenging conventional practices and emphasizing a holistic approach to skincare. Benjamin Knife Fuchs underscores the importance of understanding the complexity of Vitamin E, its proper utilization, and the limitations of traditional skincare products. For estheticians seeking to elevate their practice, this episode serves as an invaluable resource in redefining skincare with informed, evidence-based strategies.

For More Information:
To connect with Benjamin Knife Fuchs or explore more about ASCP, visit truthtreatmentspro.com.