ASCP Esty Talk: Ep 310 – The Rogue Pharmacist: Inflammation and its Role in Skin Aging

Podcast Information:

• Title: ASCP Esty Talk
• Host/Author: Associated Skin Care Professionals
• Description: ASCP Esty Talk and The Rogue Pharmacist podcast is tailored for estheticians, covering a wide range of topics from skincare science and ingredients to business strategies and beauty diversity. The goal is to enhance understanding of careers, the industry, and broader life insights.
• Episode: Ep 310 – The Rogue Pharmacist: Inflammation and its Role in Skin Aging
• Release Date: March 14, 2025

Introduction

In Episode 310 of ASCP Esty Talk, host Maggie Stasik engages in an in-depth discussion with Ben Fuchs, a skincare formulator and pharmacist, focusing on the intricate role of inflammation in skin aging. The episode delves into the science behind inflammation, distinguishing between its beneficial and detrimental forms, and explores strategies estheticians can employ to manage inflammation for healthier skin.

Understanding Inflammation and Its Dual Nature

Ben Fuchs begins by clarifying a common misconception about inflammation. While most are familiar with visible inflammation—such as swelling from an injury—Fuchs introduces the concept of micro inflammation, which occurs at the cellular level and is a hidden driver of aging.

Ben Fuchs [01:48]: "Inflammation is your best friend. Without inflammation, you can't survive."

He emphasizes that inflammation is essential for survival, acting as a protective mechanism to shield and repair tissues. However, the issue arises when inflammation becomes chronic or excessive, leading to accelerated aging and various skin issues.

Macro vs. Micro Inflammation

Fuchs distinguishes between macro inflammation (visible, acute inflammation) and micro inflammation (chronic, low-level inflammation). While macro inflammation responds to immediate threats like injuries, micro inflammation persistently affects the body at a microscopic level, contributing significantly to the aging process.

Ben Fuchs [02:45]: "The micro inflammation that is really the problem occurs at the level of the cell. And this micro inflammation is indeed the cause of aging, the major cause of aging."

The Balance Between Inflammation and Anti-Inflammation

A critical point discussed is the balance between inflammatory and anti-inflammatory processes within the body. Under healthy conditions, inflammation triggers anti-inflammatory responses to restore balance. However, modern lifestyles have tipped this balance, leading to a constant state of low-level inflammation that hinders the body's natural healing mechanisms.

Ben Fuchs [05:10]: "Inflammation itself is a balance of inflammation and anti-inflammation."

This imbalance is exacerbated by factors such as poor diet, excessive sugar intake, and environmental toxins, which overwhelm the body's ability to manage inflammation effectively.

Role of Omega Fatty Acids in Inflammation

Fuchs delves into the biochemical aspects, highlighting the roles of Omega-6 and Omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-6 fats, prevalent in many diets, are linked to promoting inflammation, whereas Omega-3 fats are anti-inflammatory and crucial for balancing the body's inflammatory responses.

Ben Fuchs [06:50]: "Omega 6 fats tend to be inflammatory... Omega 3 containing fats... is a strategy you can use to help balance out the excessive ingestion of omega 6 inflammatory fats."

He advises estheticians and their clients to increase Omega-3 intake through sources like seeds and seafood while being cautious not to entirely eliminate Omega-6 fats, as they are necessary for initiating anti-inflammatory processes.

Inflammation as a Catalyst for Growth and Healing

Contrary to the common perception of inflammation as solely detrimental, Fuchs explains its vital role in growth and healing. Inflammation is a precursor to various regenerative processes, including those stimulated by skincare treatments like peels, lasers, and retinol application.

Ben Fuchs [10:15]: "Inflammation triggers growth. That's why we go to the gym, that's why we do peels, that's why we do lasers, that's why we use retinol."

The key takeaway is that controlled inflammation, when balanced with adequate anti-inflammatory support and rest, can lead to improved skin health and rejuvenation.

Managing Inflammatory Load

Fuchs introduces the concept of inflammatory load, which refers to the cumulative burden of inflammatory triggers the body faces. Managing this load is essential to prevent overburdening the inflammatory system, which can lead to chronic inflammation and subsequent skin aging.

Ben Fuchs [13:30]: "Inflammatory load is like a straw that breaks the camel's back phenomena."

Strategies to reduce inflammatory load include limiting sugar and fried foods, avoiding toxins such as cigarette smoke, and ensuring proper nutrient intake to support the body's anti-inflammatory mechanisms.

Inflammation in the Blood and Its Systemic Effects

A significant portion of the discussion centers on inflammation within the blood, an often overlooked aspect that plays a crucial role in overall health and skin integrity. Fuchs explains that blood is a complex organ requiring precise chemical balance, and any disturbances can trigger inflammation, affecting skin health indirectly through fibroblast function and collagen production.

Ben Fuchs [14:50]: "Inflammation at the level of the dermis can cause problems with the fibroblast leading to either not enough collagen, which is one of the reasons why we get wrinkles and lax skin, or too much collagen."

Link Between Inflammation and Keloids

Fuchs addresses specific skin conditions influenced by inflammation, notably keloids—overgrowths of scar tissue. He attributes their formation to imbalances in inflammatory fats and suggests that enhancing anti-inflammatory nutrient intake can mitigate their development.

Ben Fuchs [15:50]: "You address keloids by working with the fat system, particularly anti-inflammatory fats like vitamin E and vitamin A."

Furthermore, he connects keloid formation to hormonal imbalances, particularly elevated testosterone levels, highlighting the interplay between diet, inflammation, and endocrine health.

Conclusion and Practical Takeaways

In wrapping up the discussion, Fuchs underscores the importance of maintaining a balanced inflammatory state to promote skin health and prevent aging. He advocates for:

• Balanced Diet: Increase Omega-3 intake while moderating Omega-6 consumption.
• Nutrient Support: Incorporate anti-inflammatory nutrients like vitamin E and A.
• Lifestyle Adjustments: Reduce intake of sugar, avoid smoke, and manage exposure to environmental toxins.
• Skincare Practices: Use treatments that induce controlled inflammation, followed by adequate rest and anti-inflammatory support to harness the benefits of inflammation without its drawbacks.

By understanding and managing inflammation, estheticians can better support their clients in achieving healthier, more youthful skin.

Notable Quotes:

• Ben Fuchs [01:48]: "Inflammation is your best friend. Without inflammation, you can't survive."
• Ben Fuchs [02:45]: "The micro inflammation that is really the problem occurs at the level of the cell. And this micro inflammation is indeed the cause of aging, the major cause of aging."
• Ben Fuchs [05:10]: "Inflammation itself is a balance of inflammation and anti-inflammation."
• Ben Fuchs [06:50]: "Omega 6 fats tend to be inflammatory... Omega 3 containing fats... is a strategy you can use to help balance out the excessive ingestion of omega 6 inflammatory fats."
• Ben Fuchs [10:15]: "Inflammation triggers growth. That's why we go to the gym, that's why we do peels, that's why we do lasers, that's why we use retinol."
• Ben Fuchs [13:30]: "Inflammatory load is like a straw that breaks the camel's back phenomena."
• Ben Fuchs [14:50]: "Inflammation at the level of the dermis can cause problems with the fibroblast leading to either not enough collagen, which is one of the reasons why we get wrinkles and lax skin, or too much collagen."
• Ben Fuchs [15:50]: "You address keloids by working with the fat system, particularly anti-inflammatory fats like vitamin E and vitamin A."

This comprehensive summary captures the essence of Episode 310, offering estheticians valuable insights into managing inflammation to combat skin aging effectively.