ASCP Esty Talk - Episode 312: DIY SPF Summary

Episode Title: DIY SPF
Release Date: March 26, 2025
Host: Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP)
Guests: Maggie Stasik (Program Director) and Ella Cressman (Licensed Esthetician)

Introduction

In Episode 312 of ASCP Esty Talk, host Maggie Stasik and co-host Ella Cressman delve into the increasingly popular trend of DIY sunscreen (SPF). The conversation centers around the potential risks and misconceptions associated with homemade sun protection methods, highlighting recent controversies and emphasizing the importance of using FDA-tested products.

The Rise and Risks of DIY SPF

Maggie Stasik introduces the topic by referencing an alarming article titled "Skin Cancer is on the Rise and DIY SPF Will Not Save You" she encountered on social media (02:09). The discussion kicks off with the controversial case of Nara Smith, a content creator and model who shared her homemade sunscreen recipe on TikTok after running out of commercial products (02:23).

Ella Cressman expresses skepticism about the practicality and safety of DIY SPF, questioning the necessity and feasibility of creating sunscreen at home (03:41). She states, “I think it's staged” (03:41), emphasizing doubts about the legitimacy of such homemade solutions.

Maggie echoes these concerns, highlighting major safety issues and questioning the effectiveness of DIY formulations (04:01). She explains, “homemade sunscreens lack the precise formulation and testing that ensures the safety and effectiveness of store-bought products” (05:15).

Understanding SPF Numbers and FDA Regulations

The duo delves into the complexities of SPF ratings, clarifying that only products tested in FDA-approved labs can display accurate SPF numbers. Ella elaborates on the stringent requirements, noting, “if an SPF is on the shelf and it says SPF, it has to have drug facts on the back” (05:47). She underscores that every batch must undergo testing to verify its SPF rating, a process that is cost-prohibitive for many small-scale or DIY manufacturers.

Maggie reiterates the importance of FDA compliance, stating, “You have to have that FDA lab to test your product, to get the number on the bottle and to know how effective it is against UV rays” (07:35). This ensures consumers receive reliable protection against harmful UV rays.

Gen Z’s Attitude Towards Sunscreen

A significant portion of the conversation examines a 2024 survey by the American Academy of Dermatology, revealing that Gen Z (ages 18-26) is highly conscious about skincare but not as much about sunscreen usage (07:35). Maggie finds this trend concerning, linking it to the anticipated 6% increase in melanoma cases in 2025 compared to the previous year (11:55).

Ella reflects on generational shifts, pondering why younger individuals might be “numb” to the importance of sunscreen despite being highly informed about skincare in other aspects (08:08). She attributes this to a possible sense of invincibility among youth, fearing long-term consequences like skin aging or cancer but not believing it will happen to them (11:22).

Cultural Perceptions of Tanning and Sun Exposure

The hosts explore cultural attitudes towards tanning, noting that in many Western societies, a tan is often associated with youthfulness and a carefree lifestyle. Ella contrasts this with other cultures where not being tan is preferred, indicating that Western ideals heavily influence sunscreen usage habits (12:38).

Maggie adds that despite changing perceptions, the desire for tanned skin remains prevalent, making it challenging to shift sunscreen usage behaviors (13:34).

Professional Challenges with Clients Refusing SPF

Addressing practical challenges, Maggie and Ella discuss strategies for estheticians when clients refuse to use SPF. Ella shares experiences where clients prefer DIY skincare or neglect sunscreen, limiting the treatments she can offer, such as chemical peels or dermaplaning (14:22). Maggie emphasizes the ethical responsibility to insist on SPF usage, as it is crucial for the effectiveness and safety of professional treatments (16:00).

Emphasizing Education and Diverse SPF Options

Both hosts advocate for educating clients about the importance of using professional, FDA-tested sunscreens. Ella highlights the variety of formulations available, ensuring there is an option to suit every preference, which can help overcome common objections like the greasy feeling or white cast (16:52).

Maggie reinforces this by stating, “it has to have that” FDA approval to ensure protection against UV rays, thereby negating the risks associated with DIY methods (07:35).

Conclusion

Episode 312 of ASCP Esty Talk underscores the critical importance of using professionally formulated and FDA-tested sunscreens over DIY alternatives. Maggie Stasik and Ella Cressman highlight the escalating risks of skin cancer, especially among younger generations, and stress the ethical responsibility of skincare professionals to advocate for proper sun protection. By educating clients and providing diverse, effective SPF options, estheticians can better safeguard their clients' skin health against the dangers of unverified DIY sunscreens.

Notable Quotes

• Ella Cressman (03:41): “I’m just going to say bs. First of all, you don’t have time to get some sunscreen at the store or, you know, overnight, same day delivery from Amazon.”

• Maggie Stasik (05:15): “Homemade sunscreens lack the precise formulation and testing that ensures the safety and effectiveness of store bought products.”

• Ella Cressman (05:47): “If an SPF is on the shelf and it says SPF, it has to have drug facts on the back and the drug facts have pertinent information on it.”

• Maggie Stasik (07:35): “You have to have that FDA lab to test your product, to get the number on the bottle and to know how effective it is against UV rays.”

• Ella Cressman (11:22): “There’s lots of letters floating up in my head with a big question mark after it.”

• Maggie Stasik (16:00): “If a client is not going to apply that SPF, we can’t have the treatment. It’s going to negate everything we’re doing in my treatment space today.”

Final Thoughts

This episode serves as a crucial reminder for both skincare professionals and enthusiasts about the potential dangers of unverified DIY skincare solutions. By prioritizing scientifically backed products and continuous education, the esthetician community can effectively combat the rising trends that may compromise skin health.

For more insights and updates, listeners are encouraged to connect via ASCP’s social media channels or email at getconnectedcpskincare.com.