Ep 312 – DIY SPF

Summary

ASCP Esty Talk - Episode 312: DIY SPF Summary

Episode Title: DIY SPF
Release Date: March 26, 2025
Host: Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP)
Guests: Maggie Stasik (Program Director) and Ella Cressman (Licensed Esthetician)

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Introduction

In Episode 312 of ASCP Esty Talk, host Maggie Stasik and co-host Ella Cressman delve into the increasingly popular trend of DIY sunscreen (SPF). The conversation centers around the potential risks and misconceptions associated with homemade sun protection methods, highlighting recent controversies and emphasizing the importance of using FDA-tested products.

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The Rise and Risks of DIY SPF

Maggie Stasik introduces the topic by referencing an alarming article titled "Skin Cancer is on the Rise and DIY SPF Will Not Save You" she encountered on social media (02:09). The discussion kicks off with the controversial case of Nara Smith, a content creator and model who shared her homemade sunscreen recipe on TikTok after running out of commercial products (02:23).

Ella Cressman expresses skepticism about the practicality and safety of DIY SPF, questioning the necessity and feasibility of creating sunscreen at home (03:41). She states, “I think it's staged” (03:41), emphasizing doubts about the legitimacy of such homemade solutions.

Maggie echoes these concerns, highlighting major safety issues and questioning the effectiveness of DIY formulations (04:01). She explains, “homemade sunscreens lack the precise formulation and testing that ensures the safety and effectiveness of store-bought products” (05:15).

Understanding SPF Numbers and FDA Regulations

The duo delves into the complexities of SPF ratings, clarifying that only products tested in FDA-approved labs can display accurate SPF numbers. Ella elaborates on the stringent requirements, noting, “if an SPF is on the shelf and it says SPF, it has to have drug facts on the back” (05:47). She underscores that every batch must undergo testing to verify its SPF rating, a process that is cost-prohibitive for many small-scale or DIY manufacturers.

Maggie reiterates the importance of FDA compliance, stating, “You have to have that FDA lab to test your product, to get the number on the bottle and to know how effective it is against UV rays” (07:35). This ensures consumers receive reliable protection against harmful UV rays.

Gen Z’s Attitude Towards Sunscreen

A significant portion of the conversation examines a 2024 survey by the American Academy of Dermatology, revealing that Gen Z (ages 18-26) is highly conscious about skincare but not as much about sunscreen usage (07:35). Maggie finds this trend concerning, linking it to the anticipated 6% increase in melanoma cases in 2025 compared to the previous year (11:55).

Ella reflects on generational shifts, pondering why younger individuals might be “numb” to the importance of sunscreen despite being highly informed about skincare in other aspects (08:08). She attributes this to a possible sense of invincibility among youth, fearing long-term consequences like skin aging or cancer but not believing it will happen to them (11:22).

Cultural Perceptions of Tanning and Sun Exposure

The hosts explore cultural attitudes towards tanning, noting that in many Western societies, a tan is often associated with youthfulness and a carefree lifestyle. Ella contrasts this with other cultures where not being tan is preferred, indicating that Western ideals heavily influence sunscreen usage habits (12:38).

Maggie adds that despite changing perceptions, the desire for tanned skin remains prevalent, making it challenging to shift sunscreen usage behaviors (13:34).

Professional Challenges with Clients Refusing SPF

Addressing practical challenges, Maggie and Ella discuss strategies for estheticians when clients refuse to use SPF. Ella shares experiences where clients prefer DIY skincare or neglect sunscreen, limiting the treatments she can offer, such as chemical peels or dermaplaning (14:22). Maggie emphasizes the ethical responsibility to insist on SPF usage, as it is crucial for the effectiveness and safety of professional treatments (16:00).

Emphasizing Education and Diverse SPF Options

Both hosts advocate for educating clients about the importance of using professional, FDA-tested sunscreens. Ella highlights the variety of formulations available, ensuring there is an option to suit every preference, which can help overcome common objections like the greasy feeling or white cast (16:52).

Maggie reinforces this by stating, “it has to have that” FDA approval to ensure protection against UV rays, thereby negating the risks associated with DIY methods (07:35).

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Conclusion

Episode 312 of ASCP Esty Talk underscores the critical importance of using professionally formulated and FDA-tested sunscreens over DIY alternatives. Maggie Stasik and Ella Cressman highlight the escalating risks of skin cancer, especially among younger generations, and stress the ethical responsibility of skincare professionals to advocate for proper sun protection. By educating clients and providing diverse, effective SPF options, estheticians can better safeguard their clients' skin health against the dangers of unverified DIY sunscreens.

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Notable Quotes

• Ella Cressman (03:41): “I’m just going to say bs. First of all, you don’t have time to get some sunscreen at the store or, you know, overnight, same day delivery from Amazon.”

• Maggie Stasik (05:15): “Homemade sunscreens lack the precise formulation and testing that ensures the safety and effectiveness of store bought products.”

• Ella Cressman (05:47): “If an SPF is on the shelf and it says SPF, it has to have drug facts on the back and the drug facts have pertinent information on it.”

• Maggie Stasik (07:35): “You have to have that FDA lab to test your product, to get the number on the bottle and to know how effective it is against UV rays.”

• Ella Cressman (11:22): “There’s lots of letters floating up in my head with a big question mark after it.”

• Maggie Stasik (16:00): “If a client is not going to apply that SPF, we can’t have the treatment. It’s going to negate everything we’re doing in my treatment space today.”

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Final Thoughts

This episode serves as a crucial reminder for both skincare professionals and enthusiasts about the potential dangers of unverified DIY skincare solutions. By prioritizing scientifically backed products and continuous education, the esthetician community can effectively combat the rising trends that may compromise skin health.

For more insights and updates, listeners are encouraged to connect via ASCP’s social media channels or email at getconnectedcpskincare.com.

Transcript

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[Maggie Stasik]

Hello and welcome to ASCP's Bestie Talk. I'm your co host Maggie Stasik and ASCP's program director.

[Ella Cressman]

And I'm Ella Cressman, licensed esthetician, ingredient junkie and content contributor for Associated Skincare Professionals. And we have a shout out. Check it out. Listen up. We want to give a huge thanks for listening to the beautiful you Skincare Academy Littleton campus. I guess they listen to our podcast every Wednesday, so we wanna say thank you so much for tuning in. We really appreciate it.

[Maggie Stasik]

So Ella, I was scrolling my newsfeed. This is like the equivalent of my social media, okay. And I came across an article this said skin cancer is on the rise and DIY SPF will not save you.

[Ella Cressman]

Oh my goodness.

[Maggie Stasik]

I know. So you know, I had to click to read. There are so many layers to unpack with a title like that. And the article was about Nara Smith's homemade sunscreen.

[Ella Cressman]

Oh God.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. So the article starts by telling how this content creator and model, Nara Smith realized she was out of sunscreen. Dun dun dun.

[Ella Cressman]

Oh my gosh.

[Maggie Stasik]

And instead of heading to the store to pick up a tube, she asks her husband, also a model, to go to the kitchen and whip up a batch. So of course they share this DIY beauty hack on TikTok and it goes viral. It was very controversial. There's a lot of comments on their post where some people are saying, omg, not safe. Bad idea. Melanoma on the rise and on the Other hand, a lot of posts saying, wow, what's the recipe? How do we do this? Like we're totally going to try it. So in the video he is seen mixing. This is the recipe. Coconut oil, beeswax, shea butter, cocoa butter, jojoba oil and zinc oxide powder. He then places it on a double boiler to mix it all together.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay, I'm gonna, okay, I'm gonna call bs. First of all, you don't have time to get some sunscreen at the store or you know, overnight, same day delivery from Amazon. But you have zinc oxide in your cupboard and a double boiler. Like who has a double boiler anymore? This is nuts. I'm just, I think it's staged.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. So I mean, major safety concerns here in my opinion. My first reaction was wtf?

[Ella Cressman]

What's the function? Yeah, yeah, what's the function? I would agree with you. Like, yeah, what is your thought process on here? I, I have to admit I had a client once who was making her own spf. Granted I'm not quite sure that she was with it all, but I mean, I get it, like well intended, but why would you take, take that risk at this point? You don't know first of all how it's going to affect your skin. But if there is this protection, if you're going to be completely protected. Because let's be honest, like for years and years and years and years there's been like a natural form of sunscreen for sure.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

But we're in a different climate now. There's some changes happening and we have sophisticated formulations that will, that are like cool. This is a 30, this is a 45. I mean that should be your only decision is do I want chemical or SPF? And then do I want a 30 or 15 or 45. Right?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. Let's talk about SPF for a second. That number. So in this video, Nara Smith says we burn pretty easily. So we went with something that has a little more spf.

[Ella Cressman]

Oh. Cause she's so smart. Okay, what happened? What is it?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, so how does she know? She doesn't know. So homemade sunscreens lack the precise formulation and testing that ensures the safety and effectiveness of store bought products. And that number that you see on your SPF bottle, whether it is a physical block with zinc or it is a chemical sunscreen requires an FDA lab to test the product and determine its SPS rating.

[Ella Cressman]

Let me reiterate that because here's the thing that I don't think a lot of people understand is if an SPF is on the Shelf and it says spf. It has to have drug facts on the back and the drug facts have pertinent information on it. So if it's touted as a sun protectant product, period, it has to have that. And every single batch has to be tested. No matter if this formula is tried and true and you've been creating it, let's just say as a manufacturer that you've been making it for 1945 years. I don't know, like a long time. Every batch that you make has to be tested to verify this percentage. And that is since the FDA has put into effect those numbers, which we can talk about on another podcast. But I don't think people really understand that. So it's kind of a little secret. Why some lines, especially those that just start out, don't necessarily have an SPF is because that's expensive. It's minimum $10,000 per batch just to test it. So those who are making a sunscreen are anticipating they have higher MOQs or they're going through a lab that has an established relationship with the FDA testing facilities. But that is a requirement. It's really important that we understand that as professionals is that's the only way that it can be sold on the shelves. It has to have that. So if you're mixing carrot seed, coconut, zinc powder, you could have some sun protection because there are natural things, but you just don't know. You don't know what it is and what that appropriate duration. Especially for someone who says, you said that, she said, we burn pretty easy. What the heck? I know I'm trying to be unbiased here, but there's lots of letters floating up in my head with a big question mark after it.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, you said it all. You have to have that FDA lab to test your product, to get the number on the bottle and to know how effective it is against UV rays. End of story. So the other thing that was really interesting about this post is about skin cancers and tanning. So There was a 2024 survey from the American Academy of Dermatology that had some really interesting stats. Adults, specifically Gen Z, 18 to 26, they are overly conscious about skincare, but not sunscreen.

[Ella Cressman]

That's weird. Yeah, that is weird because I think the generation above them, like kind of between us, I mean, not that we're old, but like they are very well aware of sunscreen and because their parents put it on them. So I wonder if the Gen Z and Alphas are just like numb to it.

[Maggie Stasik]

I don't know what to make of this. And I know there's always those biases about sunscreens, like, it's white or it makes my skin feel gross or it's greasy, or, you know, fill in the blank, whatever. And people choose not to use it. I get that. So you have a lot of brand manufacturers that try to make it not so white or more matte or it's a primer with your makeup or whatever the case may be. When you were growing up, what was your sunscreen usage like at the pool in the summer? Yeah, that's it. Yeah. And, like, what was your views about sun exposure? Like, were you taught a certain thing?

[Ella Cressman]

It wasn't. Yeah. My mom had a album cover with tinfoil on it that she was sitting with under her chin so she can get all angles of her neck. And ironically, she now has this huge spot on her cheek that she can't stand. And I've shared with you that my mom has dementia, but she's still like, I was gonna get a nail file and scrape it off. I'm like, no, mom, it's not gonna come off like that. Let me just get you some cream and stuff. But for me, it was. We got a. Remember the term base tan?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

Oh, yeah, we got a base tan. And then you were good for the rest of the summer. So you would put like an SPF 8 on.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes.

[Ella Cressman]

Remember?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. Like that base tan was like, that's what we were taught. But I do not tan. I am, like, as fair as can be.

[Ella Cressman]

That was base freckle for you.

[Maggie Stasik]

I. I burn and it heals and I'm white again. But the common knowledge was you get your base tan and then you are fine for the summer. And you better believe I was out there getting my base tan every day. It was my SPF 8.

[Ella Cressman]

Yes. So.

[Maggie Stasik]

But my point is, our perception about sun exposure and sunscreen over the years has drastically changed. So this statistic about Gen Z and their concerns about no sunscreen, it's really interesting. To me, we have kind of shifted back, it seems like, to our old ways of thinking.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah.

[Maggie Stasik]

So the survey, 30% reported they care more about getting a tan than preventing skin cancer.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay. This is shocking, but it kind of reminds me of you and not wanting eye cream. And it reminds me of this because you don't. I mean, this is just a sign, if this is only interviewing the Gen Z of the feeling of invincibility. I'm reminded of a story from the summer of my friend. So we are paddleboarders, and so we were up at this beautiful, like, serene lake. And she just was. Kept putting. She was wearing a long sleeve shirt and kept applying SPF 30 like every 15 minutes. I'm like, you're going to be okay. She's like, I don't want to look older. I don't want all these things, these consequences and those. We were giggling about the fact that this is not what we thought in our 20s and we were being more aware of it in our 30s, but now we're like, uh. So I'm wondering if this is just that invincible mindset that it can't happen to you, but it can.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, really good point. 1 in 5Americans is diagnosed with skin cancer in their lifetime.

[Ella Cressman]

And maybe they just haven't gotten to that. But that, that skin cancer diagnosis, the root starts in that 18 and 26.

[Maggie Stasik]

It does. Yeah. All the damage that we. I'm. I'm saying we, like, you're in this with me.

[Ella Cressman]

I am.

[Maggie Stasik]

That we're seeing now is from our teenage years when we were trying to get that based tan.

[Ella Cressman]

It's from the 8% SPO. Yeah, yeah, I agree. That's. And it's invincibility, so. Interesting.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. It is anticipated there will be a 6% increase in melanoma this year in 2025 compared to 2024.

[Ella Cressman]

Is it because of TikTok DIY recipes?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes, it must be. And all these people who don't want to put on their spf. So, yeah. It could also tie into the rise of DIY beauty, where the focus is often more on appearance than on health. And we've talked about this in other podcasts, like social media influencers such as Nara Smith saying, this is how you stay young and this is how you make your spf.

[Ella Cressman]

Keep some zinc oxide in your pantry.

[Maggie Stasik]

Totally. The desire for youthful tan skin, I think also though, is deeply rooted in our culture.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah. I think the perception is tan is pretty.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

And what's interesting to me is over the centuries, the opposite is true. And this is an American thing too. And maybe a couple other countries, but not all over the globe. It's not a globally adopted philosophy because in other areas, not being tan is seen as the preference because it's an implication of different stature. Yeah, we're here. It's a. It implies that perhaps you have more time to be out in the sun or that you're more athletic or that you're, you know, you have. I'll just boil it down. Do you have the time to tan, perhaps? Or other cultures and then other points in history it's opposite like you have the luxury of staying inside or you're not going to have these spots in this trauma. So it's very interesting. So it's the youthful appearance perception is tan and carefree.

[Maggie Stasik]

I don't think that that will ever go away for us, you know because we have like we've talked there's these ups and downs in use of SPF and our understanding about sun exposure. But at the end of the day as you've said having a tan is a positive thing in our society.

[Ella Cressman]

I love myself tan. It's be it I prefer myself tan but I also am getting these spots on my hands and so I will prefer myself spray tanned or foam tanned I guess fake tanned, faux tanned.

[Maggie Stasik]

I don't know specifics about your client base if you are treating the Gen Z.

[Ella Cressman]

Yes, I'm okay. Kiara is a lot okay.

[Maggie Stasik]

All right. Have you ever had a client come in that says they don't use SPF or what would you do if they said I am not going to apply spf?

[Ella Cressman]

Well I had that one kooky one couple she was like 15 years, maybe 10 years ago and there was some other things going on but I think Kiara has entered or she has encountered DIY sunscreen, DIY skincare more than I have in the last two years let's just say because it is a thing, not sunscreen. But I had someone who would come in and she's I do my own vitamin C serum which I thought was very interesting. So if I have people come in who say they don't use an SPF we talk about the why. And again I'm not that finger wagging esthetician I want to understand but that does limit my opportunity to treat. So there's certain things that I cannot do like I can't move forward with a chemical peel for example, I can't move forward with a dermaplane because it's my opinion not ethical to do so. So I can't tell them to do SPF but I can lead them that way and help them understand the importance of it.

[Maggie Stasik]

Not to mention here in Colorado after a chemical peel you are required by law to apply your spf.

[Ella Cressman]

What I get a lot is oh only when I go outside because I do think as cultural here in Colorado it is just a thing you do when you go outside. But that is where I do take the opportunity to discuss the benefit of using it for blue light exposure. And I think that is something that connects with Gen Z particularly because they're in front of their devices. They grew up with their devices in front of them. So very interesting. I don't know. What would you do?

[Maggie Stasik]

That's a really good question. What you just said, I think is probably what I do. It's going to limit the treatments I can perform. And if I've got a client coming in specifically for those aggressive exfoliations, chemical peels, microderm dermaplaning. Well, I'm sorry, we just can't proceed because this treatment will be followed up with spf. If you don't want me to apply that spf, we can't have the treatment. What you do outside of my treatment room and at home, you know, that's up to them. But it's going to negate everything we're doing in my treatment space today. Right? I think it's just understanding why that person doesn't like SPF and educating them on the importance of having it. Because we're going to have a consultation talking about their skincare goals, which 99% of the time is about anti aging. You can't anti age if you're not protecting against the UV rays.

[Ella Cressman]

Mm, yeah, that's very true. And plus there's so many different types of formulations now. There is drops, there's powders, there's creams, there's oil free, there's tinted. There's so many options for professionally FDA tested sunscreens that there really is something for everyone. I carry three different kinds actually. I have one, two, three. I have six different formulations in my practice and of course there's some bestsellers. But I've got something for you. So excuses be gone. You gotta wear it.

[Maggie Stasik]

Something for everyone now listeners, we want to hear from you. While we hope you're not using DIY spf, share with us how you are prioritizing your health and navigating beauty trends. Share with us on social media, through Instagram, Facebook or by emailing getconnectedcpskincare.com thank you for listening to ASCP STTalk and as always, for more information on this episode or for ways to connect with Ella and myself, or to learn more about ascp, check out the show notes.

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