Ep 314 – It’s Not Aging, It’s (Peri)Menopause!

Summary

ASCP Esty Talk: Ep 314 – It’s Not Aging, It’s (Peri)Menopause!

Release Date: April 2, 2025
Host/Author: Associated Skin Care Professionals
Description: Produced by Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP), ASCP Esty Talk and The Rogue Pharmacist is specifically created for estheticians. This episode delves into the nuanced differences between aging skin and menopausal skin, exploring how hormonal changes during perimenopause and menopause impact skincare practices.

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Introduction

In Episode 314 of ASCP Esty Talk titled “It’s Not Aging, It’s (Peri)Menopause!”, hosts Ella Cressman and Maggie Stasik engage in a comprehensive discussion about the effects of perimenopause and menopause on the skin. They explore the distinctions between general aging and menopausal skin changes, offering valuable insights and practical recommendations for estheticians to better serve their clients undergoing these life stages.

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Understanding Aging Skin vs. Menopausal Skin

Aging Skin

Aging skin undergoes gradual transformations influenced by intrinsic factors like collagen breakdown and reduced cell turnover, as well as extrinsic factors such as sun exposure and pollution. These changes manifest slowly, leading to fine lines, loss of firmness, and dullness over time.

Menopausal Skin

Contrastingly, menopausal skin experiences more abrupt and unpredictable changes primarily due to hormonal fluctuations. Ella Cressman elucidates:

"Menopause collagen production drops drastically. The statistic is about 30% in the first five years of menopause." [05:12]

Unlike the steady progression of aging, menopausal skin can swiftly transition from being well-hydrated and elastic to dry and sensitive, making it essential for estheticians to recognize and adapt to these shifts.

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Perimenopause vs. Menopause: Effects on the Skin

Perimenopausal Skin

Perimenopause is characterized by fluctuating estrogen levels, leading to inconsistency in skin conditions. This phase can cause:

• Erratic Sebum Production: Resulting in days of oiliness followed by excessive dryness.
• Breakouts and Redness: Hormonal instability can trigger acne and increased skin sensitivity.

Ella shares her personal experience to highlight these changes:

"I thought I was alone in this exploratory mission to really understand menopausal skin. It’s something born out of my own experience." [02:01]

Menopausal Skin

Menopause signifies a consistent decline in estrogen levels, stabilizing at a lower point. This stage leads to:

• Persistent Dryness: Due to reduced sebum production.
• Loss of Elasticity: Significant collagen reduction causes sagging and fine lines.
• Hyperpigmentation: Increased visibility of age spots and sun damage.

Maggie emphasizes the necessity for consistent skincare approaches during menopause:

"Menopause is like your skin going through this fast track transformation due to a drop in estrogen." [05:12]

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Hormonal Influence on Skin Changes

Estrogen plays a pivotal role in maintaining skin hydration, plumpness, and elasticity. The decline in estrogen during perimenopause and menopause disrupts these functions, leading to noticeable skin deterioration. This hormonal impact necessitates tailored skincare strategies to mitigate adverse effects and support skin health.

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Hydration, Oil Levels, and Skin Balance

Perimenopause

During perimenopause, the skin's hydration and oil levels fluctuate unpredictably:

• Oily Shine: Can appear at various times, often influenced by estrogen spikes.
• Dryness: Sudden drops in estrogen cause the skin to lose moisture rapidly.

Maggie advises estheticians to inquire about clients' daily skin conditions to discern whether oiliness is hormonally driven or a result of product usage:

"Ask your clients if they are experiencing oily shine during the day and at what point does that appear." [09:21]

Menopause

In menopause, oil production consistently diminishes, leading to:

• Persistent Dryness: The skin feels tight and rough.
• Barrier Compromise: Increased susceptibility to environmental damage.

Treatments should focus on restoring and maintaining hydration while strengthening the skin barrier.

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Collagen and Elasticity Changes

Perimenopause

Collagen levels begin to decline but do so inconsistently, resulting in fluctuating skin firmness and texture. Clients may notice:

• Temporary plumpness followed by sudden thinning.
• Variable appearance of fine lines and sagging.

Menopause

A significant and steady decrease in collagen (approximately 30% in the first five years) leads to:

• Visible Sagging: Especially around the forehead and jowl areas.
• Deepened Fine Lines: Enhanced by reduced elasticity.

Maggie recommends incorporating vitamin A products, retinoids, and vitamin C into skincare routines to support collagen synthesis:

"Vitamin A products, your retinoids, your retinols. This is going to boost collagen in the skin." [11:38]

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Pigmentation and Dark Spots

Perimenopause

Hormonal fluctuations can trigger pigment disorders such as melasma and increase sun sensitivity. These changes make the skin more prone to:

• Uneven Pigmentation: Dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
• Increased Sensitivity: Reactivity to skincare products.

Menopause

With slowed cell turnover, pigmentation issues become more permanent, resulting in:

• Age Spots: Enhanced visibility of sun damage.
• Chronic Hyperpigmentation: Due to consistent hormonal influence.

Ella advocates for the use of tranexamic acid as a versatile brightening agent:

"I love tranexamic for a couple of reasons... multi-functional products but tranexamic for that reason." [14:45]

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Treatment and Product Recommendations

Perimenopausal Skin

Hydration and Oil Balance:

• Lightweight Hydration: To manage oil fluctuations.
• Gentle Exfoliation: Avoiding over-sensitization.

Treatments:

• Nano Infusion: Effective for oily and acne-prone skin.
• Collagen Induction Therapy (Microneedling): Stimulates collagen and elastin production.

Menopausal Skin

Deep Hydration and Barrier Repair:

• Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramides: For intensive hydration.
• Omega Fatty Acids: To reinforce the skin barrier.

Collagen Support:

• Retinol and Peptides: To encourage collagen synthesis.
• Vitamin C: For tone and brightness.

Exfoliation:

• Gentle Peels: Such as lactic acid for sensitive skin or glycolic/mandelic peels for more resilient skin types.

Maggie highlights the importance of sunscreen in both stages to protect against further collagen degradation:

"Always, always, no matter if you are perimenopausal or menopausal, is your sunscreen." [11:38]

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Customization and Adaptation in Skincare

Given the variability in skin conditions during perimenopause and menopause, personalized skincare approaches are crucial. Estheticians should:

• Conduct Thorough Skin Analyses: Every client visit may require adjustments in treatments and product recommendations.
• Adapt Treatment Protocols: Based on the client's current skin state, whether it's overly sensitive, dry, or oily.
• Emphasize Flexibility: Recognizing that a one-size-fits-all approach is ineffective for managing hormonal skin changes.

Ella reinforces the significance of customization:

"Customization. Oh, I love it. So the bottom line is what's the key difference in the skin?" [16:56]

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Conclusion

Episode 314 of ASCP Esty Talk underscores the critical distinction between general aging and menopausal skin changes. By understanding the hormonal underpinnings of perimenopausal and menopausal skin, estheticians can tailor their skincare practices to effectively address the unique challenges faced by their clients. The discussion highlights the importance of flexibility, continuous education, and personalized care in achieving healthy, glowing skin through hormonal transitions.

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Notable Quotes

• Ella Cressman [02:01]: "I thought I was alone in this exploratory mission to really understand menopausal skin."
• Ella Cressman [05:12]: "Menopause collagen production drops drastically. The statistic is about 30% in the first five years of menopause."
• Maggie Stasik [09:21]: "Ask your clients if they are experiencing oily shine during the day and at what point does that appear."
• Maggie Stasik [11:38]: "Vitamin A products, your retinoids, your retinols. This is going to boost collagen in the skin."
• Ella Cressman [14:45]: "I love tranexamic for a couple of reasons... multifunctional products but tranexamic for that reason."
• Ella Cressman [16:56]: "Customization. Oh, I love it. So the bottom line is what's the key difference in the skin?"

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Further Engagement

Listeners are encouraged to share their observations and experiences with peri- and menopausal clients via Instagram, Facebook, or email at [e-mail]. For more information on this episode or to connect with hosts Maggie and Ella, refer to the show notes and stay tuned for upcoming episodes of ASCP Esty Talk.

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Transcript

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[Ella Cressman]

Hello and welcome to ASCP STTalk. I'm Ella Cressman, Licensed esthetician, certified organic skincare Formulator and content contributor for Associated Skincare Professionals.

[Maggie Stasik]

I am Maggie Stasik, licensed esthetician and ASCP's program director.

[Ella Cressman]

Maggie, I have to tell you, I know it's been a while, but I had so much fun at the Denver meetup.

[Maggie Stasik]

I'm so glad. Ella.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah, I loved it. I think that it was amazing. Just getting together was key, but the brands that were there were also really neat and just really communing with fellow estheticians and seeing them in person. There's one in particular, so she's today's shout out. We have a shout out and I'm probably butchering your last name, Bri Najad, but that's how I've said it in my head for years and years because we've been connected via Facebook and I met her in person. We had the best conversation for a lot of reasons, but it was really nice to meet her in person. So I want to shout her out. So today we're going to be talking about I'm super surprised that today's topic is as trendy as it is and can I explain why?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, tell me.

[Ella Cressman]

I thought it was alone. I thought I was alone in this exploratory mission to really understand menopausal skin. And I will admit that it's something born out of my own experience. There's a huge difference. And so when I say born out of my own experience, I'm talking just about my stage in life, but also about witnessing some of the changes that have happened in my clients over the years. And you've heard me say quite a bit that the industry has conditioned us to these boxes of anti aging, hyperpigmentation, compromised skin and so on, even acne. But I feel like we're circles and and we encompass more than one of those boxes. This is incredibly true. When I think about menopausal skin, not just for myself, but for my clients. So I've been on a quest, really developing a training program for like 18 months now. And then I see it everywhere. You probably see it everywhere too, right?

[Maggie Stasik]

I do, yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

I love that it's something we are talking about now because it's so different than just those boxes that we've had before. And the other thing that bothers me, I don't know, that doesn't bother me, that makes me happy. But one thing that bothers me is that when I was younger, my association with menopause was like hot flashes, night sweats, irritability. Right.

[Maggie Stasik]

A hundred percent.

[Ella Cressman]

And I mean, even. I'll share a personal story. When we were in. When I was in my 20s, my cousins, my aunts, my grandma, we thought it'd be fun. We all got together, we got limos and we went out to a theater evening. And the theater was Menopause the Musical. So it was a sisterhood thing. And they talked about some of those key points or what have you. And I thought that was it. I thought I was gonna get to a certain age and then I was gonna be going through that for a little bit and then moving on. But one thing that I was not really prepared for was perimenopause and the difference in what happened. So I think it's important to understand that, because guess what? It's inevitable. It's inevitable. And it may start at different times, it may have different durations, but we're going to go through it. So I think before we get started, one thing we should talk about is the difference between aging skin and menopausal skin. What do you think the biggest differences would be?

[Maggie Stasik]

That's a really good question. And I think in some respects, aging skin and menopausal skin are synonymous. But to your point, it also depends on your age and where you are in your life and your external experiences and factors impacting your skin. Right. But aging skin, it changes slowly over time due to collagen breakdown, reduced cell turnover, and again, those environmental factors like sun exposure and pollution.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah. Where menopause or perimenopause feels like, it just comes. It comes on, you're walking along, everything's good, and then you trip and then you're in it. So for aging versus menopause, with aging, you're gonna see fine lines, loss of firmness and dullness, but it's more progressive and predictable. Right.

[Maggie Stasik]

Gradual.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah.

[Maggie Stasik]

Menopause is like your skin going through this fast track transformation due to a drop in estrogen, yes.

[Ella Cressman]

And perimenopause, it drops, comes back up, Drops, comes back up. And so this is why you have erratic skin. A lot of different things, but if we're talking just particularly about the skin, this is why there's these changes. Because estrogen plays a huge role in keeping the skin hydrated, plump and flexible or elastic. So on those times during perimenopause when it decreases, the changes feel sudden and dramatic. So you wake up in the morning, let's say, with dryness and even newfound sensitivity. And this is one of the first indications that I saw is I thought I looked great. Then all of a sudden I'm waking up and I'm like, what is that line? It's not this gradual, it's not graceful. I don't think so. And I think this campaign of aging gracefully is, oh, so cute. But in this phase, it feels like you just felt like Thelma and Louise off into this valley, what do you call it? Like a gorge. So other things you might experience are breakouts, redness, increased skin reaction was an interesting one because I saw that in my clients. So even if it was smooth sailing before, all of a sudden there was clients at a huge age range, like about a 20 year span, that we're all of a sudden sensitive or reactive. So that portion, we talk about menopause, we talk about purity, we talk about hormonal changes in the skin, especially related to acne. But let's talk about the difference between perimenopausal skin and menopausal skin. So both perimenopausal and menopausal skin go through changes, but the causes and the patterns are a lot different. So one good way to think of it is perimenopausal skin is unpredictable and fluctuates where menopausal skin is consistent and the changes are happening, but you don't have this whiplash back and forth. So let's talk about the hormonal influence. In perimenopause, estrogen spikes and crashes unpredictably. There's no rhyme, there's no reason. Some days your skin feels great and other days it's dry, oily, or breaking out. And then in menopause, the estrogen levels have consistently been low. So with that, it's important to understand because as practitioners, maybe you perform a treatment are, you know, a facial or otherwise, maybe a body treatment, maybe something else. And they're like, oh, I look really good. And they come back, they're like, yeah, the next week it was not it was just blah. It was, it was back to normal. So think about those things, especially when you're recommending home care. Yeah.

[Maggie Stasik]

I think this is also why it's really important that every service, every time your client comes in, you are performing that skin analysis because the skin is fluctuating so much that the treatment you performed last time may not apply to this time.

[Ella Cressman]

Yes. And so it changes. Like if you do series, if you do graduated series, even of plz, you have to keep that in the back of your mind. Like maybe you might have to adjust down or, or stay on that level this time. Great point, Maggie. So let's talk about hydration and oil levels. I feel like this skin's best at an equilibrium between these two water and oil. In perimenopausal skin, some days the skin is super oily, where other days it's super dry. And that's because sebum production fluctuates based on these estrogen shifts, which is hard when you're looking at products. Uh, and then in the menopausal skin, oil production is just like, that's me making a sound of it stopping. So that means your skin is persistently dry, that you have rough texture potentially, and then the skin kind of can feel tight. So what questions should you or an esthetician ask during a consultation regarding dryness and oiliness to gently understand better?

[Maggie Stasik]

Um, I would be asking. You know, the number one that comes to mind is asking your clients if they are experiencing oily shine during the day and at what point does that appear and then also what products are they applying and when are they applying them? Because is that oily shine a result of menopause or perimenopause or is it a result of how they're caring for their skin?

[Ella Cressman]

Ooh, lovely. Points to ponder. I love that. Yes, awesome. Hold that thought. We'll be right back.

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[Ella Cressman]

Okay, here we go. Let's get back to the podcast. Now let's talk about collagen and elasticity. In perimenopause, collagen levels start decreasing, but the process is slower and more inconsistent. So some Months, maybe your skin feels plump, and then other times it might look thinner. I experienced this especially, like in my forehead is a huge indication around my eyes. And then also down, like in my jowl area, like, what is going on? But sometimes I'm like, dang, I look good. And other times I'm like, what happened? Where menopause collagen production drops drastically. And the statistic is about 30% in the first five years of menopause. So menopause is defined as once your menses stop for a period of 12 months. So with this 30% drop in the first five years, obviously that's when you're seeing a noticeable sagging, fine lines, loss of firmness that stays. So what are some treatments and products you might perform or recommend considering these two different phases?

[Maggie Stasik]

First is going to be your vitamin A products, your retinoids, your retinols. This is going to boost collagen in the skin. And then always vitamin C, which is going to support the use of your vitamin A and help with tone and brightness in the skin. And always, always, no matter if you are perimenopausal or menopausal, is your sunscreen, which is going to prevent those UV A and UVB rays from further breaking down collagen in the skin.

[Ella Cressman]

I think that's fantastic. How about for treatments?

[Maggie Stasik]

Treatments? You know, it depends because we were talking earlier. What is the condition of the skin in the moment when that client's on the bed with you? If they're overly sensitive in the moment, overly dry in the moment, maybe you're just going to support the barrier of the skin. But you could be considering things like a little mini peel series, like something like lactic, for instance. But maybe they can handle a glycolic or maybe they could handle a mandelic or Jessner peel if they're more oily and acne prone.

[Ella Cressman]

You know what I love too? Oily and acne prone in this stage, perimenopause or menopause is nano treatments. Yeah, nano infusion.

[Maggie Stasik]

Oh, love that.

[Ella Cressman]

And then if they're in, if they're, if they can handle it, collagen induction therapy or microneedling. Because this is a way where you're, you're instigating the function, if you will, of the collagen and elastin into reminding it, hey, let's work together. And I imagine it's probably like a marathon at the end. People are cheering you on and you're like, okay, I can do it these last hundred feet. Uh, but let's Talk about pigmentation in spots, dark spots. So in perimenopause, these hormonal fluctuations can trigger certain pigment disorders like melasma and even the sun sensitivity. Not to mention imagine you're emotional and your emotions are changing. So your, your melanocytes are, as they say, sitting on ready. They're ready to go at any, any slight instigation. And this analogy would be like me having breakfast with my husband around. Like, why, what, what did you mean by that? You know, or why are you chewing that way? Or it's like, oh, is like I trigger happy. I get really irritated sometimes. That's the way I like to think of this versus menopause, where the hyperpigmentation opportunity is like it's there and it becomes permanent. And so you're getting the age spots, the sun damage is becoming more visible. And that's because there's slowed cell turnover and just kind of a slowing down of everything. So we, what are we gonna do to do that? So what I wanna understand is, is every single one of your clients on something brightening at this point? When do you start putting everyone on brightening agents?

[Maggie Stasik]

I don't know that I would, per se. It's going back to the ingredients recommended earlier. Your retinols, your vitamin C and your spf. That's a great starting point. And then it's a case by case basis. Maybe somebody needs a hydroquinone. Maybe somebody needs a lactic. And not everyone will need a brightening product at this point in the game.

[Ella Cressman]

You know what? I love tranexamic. I love tranexamic for a couple of reasons. At this one, I would put everybody on something like that because I think this is personal, because I am so worried about it. My bounce back from even little ting, little things. Like I find myself looking in the mirror, turning my head to see, is it way over here? Where does it stop? Like, I'm worried about it. So I'm definitely impressing my own personal experience onto everybody. But I'm. Luckily I'm using multifunctional products but tranexamic for that reason, because like you said, hydroquinone, you have to be so careful who you put on hydroquinone. And then it's so full of controversy. How about how skin, with that, how skin reacts to products. And hydroquinone would be one of them that can elicit sensitivity. But in perimenopause, some products can like all of a sudden stop working or the skin may overreact to ingredients because of hormonal sensitivity. I had this happen. Last summer I had a mandelic acid peel and it was a lipid peel and it I had rebound after rebound after rebound of itchiness and redness for about a six week period. I don't blame the peel at all. It was me, but it normally is something I could tolerate. It was very, very bizarre to me. So different than clients I've seen who are in menopause where they're just sensitive. I was like randomly sensitive. So how would you adjust your approach from aging perspective to perimenopause mindset for skin products?

[Maggie Stasik]

This is a hard one to answer because one everyone is going to be different and understanding that your hormones are constantly fluctuating and as a result the state of your skin is constantly going to be in an influx. It's hard to say that here is your aging approach for this person who is perimenopausal and menopausal, there is not a black and white answer or a protocol that fits this individual. So you have to take it as case by case, do your skin analysis and say what is the state of the skin in the moment right now?

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah, customization. Oh I love it. So the bottom line is what's the key difference in the skin? On that note, in your clients, is it presenting more perimenopausal or menopausal? Is it chaotic? Are there hormonal ups and downs in other areas? Perhaps? Those are great questions to ask in your consultation. Is it menopausal skin? Is it dry, thinner, collagen deficient? So how to handle each stage? For perimenopausal skin use, balancing skincare, lightweight hydration for those oil fluctuations, gentle exfoliation to avoid the sensitizing. Treat breakouts carefully. Don't over dry the skin and always wear sun protection to prevent hormonal hyper or hyperpigmentation at all. For menopause skin, focus on deep hydration and barrier repair. Things like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, omega fatty acids, encourage collagen production with retinol peptides and vitamin C. Just like Maggie said. Be gentle with exfoliation because thin skin can get irritated easily. But both stages really need adaptable skincare or adjustable or customizable skincare. So come in with an open mind. The goal is always healthy glowing skin no matter what estrogen is up to. Now listeners, we really want to hear from you. What are you seeing in your peri and menopausal clients? Reach out via Instagram, Facebook or send us an [e-mail]. we want to know all the details. In the meantime, thank you for listening to ASCP STTalk. For more information on this episode, or for ways to connect with Maggie or myself, or to learn more about asdp, check out the show notes and stay tuned for the next episode of ASDP STTalk.

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