ASCP Esty Talk: Ep 314 – It’s Not Aging, It’s (Peri)Menopause!
Release Date: April 2, 2025
Host/Author: Associated Skin Care Professionals
Description: Produced by Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP), ASCP Esty Talk and The Rogue Pharmacist is specifically created for estheticians. This episode delves into the nuanced differences between aging skin and menopausal skin, exploring how hormonal changes during perimenopause and menopause impact skincare practices.
Introduction
In Episode 314 of ASCP Esty Talk titled “It’s Not Aging, It’s (Peri)Menopause!”, hosts Ella Cressman and Maggie Stasik engage in a comprehensive discussion about the effects of perimenopause and menopause on the skin. They explore the distinctions between general aging and menopausal skin changes, offering valuable insights and practical recommendations for estheticians to better serve their clients undergoing these life stages.
Understanding Aging Skin vs. Menopausal Skin
Aging Skin
Aging skin undergoes gradual transformations influenced by intrinsic factors like collagen breakdown and reduced cell turnover, as well as extrinsic factors such as sun exposure and pollution. These changes manifest slowly, leading to fine lines, loss of firmness, and dullness over time.
Menopausal Skin
Contrastingly, menopausal skin experiences more abrupt and unpredictable changes primarily due to hormonal fluctuations. Ella Cressman elucidates:
"Menopause collagen production drops drastically. The statistic is about 30% in the first five years of menopause." [05:12]
Unlike the steady progression of aging, menopausal skin can swiftly transition from being well-hydrated and elastic to dry and sensitive, making it essential for estheticians to recognize and adapt to these shifts.
Perimenopause vs. Menopause: Effects on the Skin
Perimenopausal Skin
Perimenopause is characterized by fluctuating estrogen levels, leading to inconsistency in skin conditions. This phase can cause:
- Erratic Sebum Production: Resulting in days of oiliness followed by excessive dryness.
- Breakouts and Redness: Hormonal instability can trigger acne and increased skin sensitivity.
Ella shares her personal experience to highlight these changes:
"I thought I was alone in this exploratory mission to really understand menopausal skin. It’s something born out of my own experience." [02:01]
Menopausal Skin
Menopause signifies a consistent decline in estrogen levels, stabilizing at a lower point. This stage leads to:
- Persistent Dryness: Due to reduced sebum production.
- Loss of Elasticity: Significant collagen reduction causes sagging and fine lines.
- Hyperpigmentation: Increased visibility of age spots and sun damage.
Maggie emphasizes the necessity for consistent skincare approaches during menopause:
"Menopause is like your skin going through this fast track transformation due to a drop in estrogen." [05:12]
Hormonal Influence on Skin Changes
Estrogen plays a pivotal role in maintaining skin hydration, plumpness, and elasticity. The decline in estrogen during perimenopause and menopause disrupts these functions, leading to noticeable skin deterioration. This hormonal impact necessitates tailored skincare strategies to mitigate adverse effects and support skin health.
Hydration, Oil Levels, and Skin Balance
Perimenopause
During perimenopause, the skin's hydration and oil levels fluctuate unpredictably:
- Oily Shine: Can appear at various times, often influenced by estrogen spikes.
- Dryness: Sudden drops in estrogen cause the skin to lose moisture rapidly.
Maggie advises estheticians to inquire about clients' daily skin conditions to discern whether oiliness is hormonally driven or a result of product usage:
"Ask your clients if they are experiencing oily shine during the day and at what point does that appear." [09:21]
Menopause
In menopause, oil production consistently diminishes, leading to:
- Persistent Dryness: The skin feels tight and rough.
- Barrier Compromise: Increased susceptibility to environmental damage.
Treatments should focus on restoring and maintaining hydration while strengthening the skin barrier.
Collagen and Elasticity Changes
Perimenopause
Collagen levels begin to decline but do so inconsistently, resulting in fluctuating skin firmness and texture. Clients may notice:
- Temporary plumpness followed by sudden thinning.
- Variable appearance of fine lines and sagging.
Menopause
A significant and steady decrease in collagen (approximately 30% in the first five years) leads to:
- Visible Sagging: Especially around the forehead and jowl areas.
- Deepened Fine Lines: Enhanced by reduced elasticity.
Maggie recommends incorporating vitamin A products, retinoids, and vitamin C into skincare routines to support collagen synthesis:
"Vitamin A products, your retinoids, your retinols. This is going to boost collagen in the skin." [11:38]
Pigmentation and Dark Spots
Perimenopause
Hormonal fluctuations can trigger pigment disorders such as melasma and increase sun sensitivity. These changes make the skin more prone to:
- Uneven Pigmentation: Dark spots and hyperpigmentation.
- Increased Sensitivity: Reactivity to skincare products.
Menopause
With slowed cell turnover, pigmentation issues become more permanent, resulting in:
- Age Spots: Enhanced visibility of sun damage.
- Chronic Hyperpigmentation: Due to consistent hormonal influence.
Ella advocates for the use of tranexamic acid as a versatile brightening agent:
"I love tranexamic for a couple of reasons... multi-functional products but tranexamic for that reason." [14:45]
Treatment and Product Recommendations
Perimenopausal Skin
Hydration and Oil Balance:
- Lightweight Hydration: To manage oil fluctuations.
- Gentle Exfoliation: Avoiding over-sensitization.
Treatments:
- Nano Infusion: Effective for oily and acne-prone skin.
- Collagen Induction Therapy (Microneedling): Stimulates collagen and elastin production.
Menopausal Skin
Deep Hydration and Barrier Repair:
- Hyaluronic Acid and Ceramides: For intensive hydration.
- Omega Fatty Acids: To reinforce the skin barrier.
Collagen Support:
- Retinol and Peptides: To encourage collagen synthesis.
- Vitamin C: For tone and brightness.
Exfoliation:
- Gentle Peels: Such as lactic acid for sensitive skin or glycolic/mandelic peels for more resilient skin types.
Maggie highlights the importance of sunscreen in both stages to protect against further collagen degradation:
"Always, always, no matter if you are perimenopausal or menopausal, is your sunscreen." [11:38]
Customization and Adaptation in Skincare
Given the variability in skin conditions during perimenopause and menopause, personalized skincare approaches are crucial. Estheticians should:
- Conduct Thorough Skin Analyses: Every client visit may require adjustments in treatments and product recommendations.
- Adapt Treatment Protocols: Based on the client's current skin state, whether it's overly sensitive, dry, or oily.
- Emphasize Flexibility: Recognizing that a one-size-fits-all approach is ineffective for managing hormonal skin changes.
Ella reinforces the significance of customization:
"Customization. Oh, I love it. So the bottom line is what's the key difference in the skin?" [16:56]
Conclusion
Episode 314 of ASCP Esty Talk underscores the critical distinction between general aging and menopausal skin changes. By understanding the hormonal underpinnings of perimenopausal and menopausal skin, estheticians can tailor their skincare practices to effectively address the unique challenges faced by their clients. The discussion highlights the importance of flexibility, continuous education, and personalized care in achieving healthy, glowing skin through hormonal transitions.
Notable Quotes
- Ella Cressman [02:01]: "I thought I was alone in this exploratory mission to really understand menopausal skin."
- Ella Cressman [05:12]: "Menopause collagen production drops drastically. The statistic is about 30% in the first five years of menopause."
- Maggie Stasik [09:21]: "Ask your clients if they are experiencing oily shine during the day and at what point does that appear."
- Maggie Stasik [11:38]: "Vitamin A products, your retinoids, your retinols. This is going to boost collagen in the skin."
- Ella Cressman [14:45]: "I love tranexamic for a couple of reasons... multifunctional products but tranexamic for that reason."
- Ella Cressman [16:56]: "Customization. Oh, I love it. So the bottom line is what's the key difference in the skin?"
Further Engagement
Listeners are encouraged to share their observations and experiences with peri- and menopausal clients via Instagram, Facebook, or email at email@getconnectedscpskincare.com. For more information on this episode or to connect with hosts Maggie and Ella, refer to the show notes and stay tuned for upcoming episodes of ASCP Esty Talk.