Ep 317 – Young Skin, Mature Products

Summary

ASCP Esty Talk Episode 317: Young Skin, Mature Products

Release Date: April 16, 2025

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Introduction

In Episode 317 of ASCP Esty Talk, hosts Maggie Stasik and Ella Cressman delve into the contentious topic of regulating anti-aging skincare products for minors. The discussion revolves around a newly introduced California bill aimed at prohibiting the sale of anti-aging skincare items to individuals under 18 years old. This episode explores the implications, responsibilities, and broader societal impacts of such legislation, providing valuable insights for estheticians and skincare professionals.

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Overview of the California Bill

Maggie Stasik introduces the primary subject:

"There's a new bill in California that aims to make it illegal for companies to sell anti-aging skincare products to anyone under 18. This bill targets products with ingredients like retinol, retinoids, glycolic acid, any other common anti-aging ingredient." (01:45)

The bill seeks to restrict access to potent skincare ingredients typically marketed for adult use, arguing that younger skin may not require or safely handle these compounds.

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Pros and Cons of the Legislation

Ella Cressman shares a nuanced perspective:

"It's weird. I have a lot of thoughts and they're polar. I have thoughts that go, yeah, makes sense. Like they obviously shouldn't have access to like retinol if you're 12. But on the other side, what are we saying about these products? You know, that they need to have an ID to purchase them." (02:20)

Ella acknowledges the validity of restricting certain ingredients for minors but raises concerns about the broader implications of requiring age verification for skincare products. She questions the precedent this sets, pondering whether other products like acne treatments should also face similar restrictions.

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Impact of Marketing on Younger Consumers

Maggie Stasik highlights the allure of beauty retailers to younger demographics:

"I avoid it like the plague," (03:28) referring to stores like Sephora and Ulta.

Ella elaborates on the sensory appeal and marketing strategies that attract tweens and teens:

"It smells awesome. It smells so good. It's alluring. There are colors everywhere... I will walk in for one thing and $200 later, I'm walking out with stuff I don't need." (03:34)

The hosts discuss how vibrant packaging and enticing scents make anti-aging products particularly appealing to younger audiences, often influenced by social media trends.

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Responsibility and Enforcement Challenges

The conversation shifts to who should bear the responsibility for enforcing the age restrictions:

Ella Cressman poses critical questions:

"Where does their responsibility lie? Like, who's responsible for that? The clerk to check the parents, to check the companies?" (03:28)

Maggie Stasik adds:

"If this bill passes, it would require stores to verify the buyer's age. So to your point, where does responsibility lie? According to this bill, it would be the store. And for me personally, I think that is passing the responsibility to the wrong person." (07:14)

Both agree that shifting the burden to retailers may not be the most effective solution and draw parallels to other products like caffeine and sugar, questioning the consistency of such regulations.

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Effectiveness and Practicality of the Bill

The hosts contemplate whether the bill would achieve its intended goals:

Ella Cressman suggests that minors might find ways around the restrictions:

"Teens and tweens, they're resourceful, they'll find ways around it if this bill should pass." (08:50)

Maggie Stasik concurs:

"If they want the product, they want the product, they're going to find ways to get it." (08:50)

They debate the practicality of enforcement and whether the bill would genuinely prevent underage use or merely complicate the purchasing process without resolving the underlying demand.

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Community Feedback and Diverse Opinions

The episode incorporates feedback from listeners, showcasing a range of opinions:

• Kiss and Glow Regina supports the bill:

  "I totally agree that under 18 should not be allowed to use anti-aging products." (10:00)

• OBU Facial Bar emphasizes the urgency of the issue:

  "Yes, get it done." (10:39)

• The Skinsay offers a nuanced view:

  "All skincare is anti-aging. Sunscreen is quote unquote anti-aging... If anything should have an 18 plus age limit, it should be high potency retinols." (10:39)

• Skin by Sistashepherd LA expresses concern over the exposure of very young children to complex skincare routines influenced by social media trends:

  "When 8, 9, 10 year-olds are consumed with serums, masks and 10-step skincare cleansing routines, it is a problem for me." (12:49)

These varied perspectives highlight the complexity of the issue, balancing consumer autonomy with protective measures for younger skin.

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Role of Social Media and Emerging Trends

Ella addresses the influence of platforms like TikTok on youth skincare practices:

"Liliana CMLD L.e says... 11 year-olds are showing up at urgent care with skin melting off because of a stupid TikTok trend that mommy didn't see coming." (14:13)

The hosts discuss the challenge of regulating online content that encourages risky skincare behaviors among minors, questioning the feasibility of enforcing age-related restrictions on digital platforms.

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Final Thoughts and Call to Action

As the episode concludes, Maggie Stasik reiterates the importance of professional responsibility:

"If they are consumed by it... as the esthetician when they come and see me and we have that little consultation, what are you using at home? Let's talk about it, let's educate, let's make sure you're using it right or do you need to be even using it at all?" (13:23)

Both hosts emphasize the role of estheticians in educating clients, particularly younger individuals, about appropriate skincare practices.

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Conclusion

Episode 317 of ASCP Esty Talk provides a comprehensive examination of the proposed California bill restricting the sale of anti-aging skincare products to minors. Through thoughtful dialogue, Maggie Stasik and Ella Cressman explore the benefits and drawbacks of such legislation, the responsibilities of retailers and professionals, and the broader societal implications of regulating skincare for young consumers. The episode encourages industry professionals to engage in ongoing discussions about best practices and the evolving landscape of skincare regulations.

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Connect with ASCP Esty Talk:

For more insights and discussions, listeners are encouraged to engage with the ASCP community through social media platforms like Instagram and Facebook or by emailing [e-mail].

Transcript

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[Maggie Stasik]

Hello and welcome to ASCP's eStatee Talk. I'm your co host Maggie Stasik and ASCP's program director.

[Ella Cressman]

And I'm Ella Cressman, licensed esthetician, ingredient junkie and content contributor for Associated Skincare Professionals.

[Maggie Stasik]

So Ella, there's a new bill in California that aims to make it illegal for companies to sell anti aging skin care products to anyone under 18.

[Ella Cressman]

Oof.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. This bill targets products with ingredients like retinol, retinoids, glycolic acid, any other common anti aging ingredient. Now this isn't the first time the bill has been introduced. It was brought up last year but didn't pass. This year it's been reintroduced with a few changes. So I'm curious what your thoughts are about this. Is this something that should even be up for debate?

[Ella Cressman]

It's weird. I have a lot of thoughts and they're polar. I have thoughts that go, yeah, makes sense. Like they obviously shouldn't have access to the like a retinol if you're 12. But on the other side, what are we saying about these products? You know, that they need to, to have an ID to purchase them. It's. That is to me potentially a really dangerous slope. Like do we have to have a ID to purchase acne products? At what point do we put the. I don't know. It's, it's a really polarizing issue. I can imagine for a lot of people.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, I think you and I are in line with our opinion and a lot of the concern comes from younger Consumers, the tweens and teens rushing to stores like Seoufora or Ulta to buy products marketed as, quote, unquote, anti aging. And these products traditionally are meant for adults, but younger folks are snatching them up, often influenced by social media. So would you say, or do you think this trend is something we should be worried about? Are these products appropriate for younger skin, in your opinion, as a practicing esthetician?

[Ella Cressman]

Let's go back a little bit though. Have you been to Sephora or Ulta lately? You know what?

[Maggie Stasik]

I avoid it like the plague.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay, well, let me. Let me tell you what happens when you walk in. First of all, it smells awesome. It smells so good. It's alluring. And there are colors everywhere, bright colors and muted colors. And there is glitz and there is opulence, and there is. Come here, check this out, right? Any store that you walk into now, you're walking into Sephora. And I think that they probably have a little bit of design, floor set design to elicit this response of, I really need that. I fall for it every single time. I will walk in for One thing and $200 later, I'm walking out with stuff I don't need. You know, they have the cash, wrap sales, all of that. So I recently went with my niece because she's hysterical and she wanted me to take her to get a lip liner. I'll tell you that. And she's in this age. She's in the tween age, right? Like preteen age. This is what I feel is the target there. Let me rewind that a little bit and say, I feel like she is a target audience. She is a target marketing group for these places. Mind you, when I go, I'll take a little peek at the skincare, but I don't really look deep. I'm at the makeup, I'm at the hair stuff, and I am suckered in and I need it and I want it. And. And then, you know, all the little travel size products is another story. But for her, I'm like, okay, you're gonna get a lip liner. How are you gonna take it off? You're wearing mascara. Now, let's get you a couple things, right? Being the favorite aunt, and then we go to look for a certain, you know, makeup remover product. And then I'm seeing these brands and they are red, pink coral, and they're soft touch packaging that is beautiful. For me, it's like a beaconing, flashing light for them. She's picking it up, she's smelling it, and watching her response to this, I was like, what is that? Is this what we're looking for? This product to remove your makeup? Actually, we were looking for a cleanser specifically. And then picking them up, I'm like, oh, no, this isn't appropriate for you. And I was there supervising and had to explain why this was not a good one. But also give her the rope long enough to help her pick one that she liked for those sensory parts. So I see it. I can understand on one side, but my question is, where does their responsibility lie? Like, who's responsible for that? The clerk to check the parents, to check the companies, to not make them so really exciting. Like, who's. Who's at fault here and is their fault?

[Maggie Stasik]

There is so much to unpack in what you just said. First, let me say I have an eyeshadow palette at home. It's all the things you just said. Red and pink and glitzy, compact. When you open it up, the eyeshadow smells like sugar. And every time I'm using it, my husband gives me crap about it and says, why are you using makeup intended for kids?

[Ella Cressman]

Oh, Mic job.

[Maggie Stasik]

In my mind, this is not for kids. It was made for me, and I love it, and it smells amazing, and it is so beautiful. But given this argument, I can see where the draw might be. The teens and the tweens.

[Ella Cressman]

And then on the flip side, do we need to check your ID to say, like, ma'am, you're too old, ma'am. First of all, ma'am, this is not your eyeshadow. You need the muted version over there that smells like powder. Yeah, yeah. Very interested.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, yeah, for sure. If this bill passes, it would require stores to verify the buyer's age. So to your point, where does responsibility lie? According to this bill, it would be the store. And for me personally, I think that is passing the responsibility to the wrong person.

[Ella Cressman]

I agree with you 100%.

[Maggie Stasik]

And I think also from a revenue standpoint, that is, from a revenue standpoint, that's such a block for not only the manufacturer, but the store in selling this product. It's not like, you know, drawing the comparison to cigarettes or liquor, where this is a major detriment to children and development and their bodies and etc. We're talking about going to the store and buying cosmetics.

[Ella Cressman]

Well, then let's give it another parallel. How about caffeine? So do you need a age limit with some sort of buyer's age verification for Mountain Dew or Red Bull or. And I'm calling out brands here, let's say energy drinks or Coca Cola has caffeine in it. Where's the responsibility lie? Is it okay for people under a certain age to have that? Because there is still. How about sugar? Sugar has an effect on the brain. There's been studies on this and I'm meaning to pick these big examples to say yes, they can cause issue if you have the wrong product at any age. So what are we doing? Are we focusing on the right fix? What do you think?

[Maggie Stasik]

Well here's the question. Would this even work? So teens and tweens, they're resourceful, they'll find ways around it if this bill should pass. If they want the product, they want the product, they're going to find ways to get it.

[Ella Cressman]

Yes. Then they're friends. And if it's 18, like what's the age? What's the cutoff?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, I think you know 18 is an interesting number as well. So obviously at 18 legally you become an adult. But to say that these products are intended for quote unquote adults. 18 year old skin doesn't necessarily require anti aging products.

[Ella Cressman]

And then let's back it up again. Let's talk about retinol palmitate which can be a keratolytic but it can also be a preservative or a stabilizing agent in a formula. So this would change labeling requirements for all of these brands. If this just passes in California, perhaps they can get away with a label sticker but otherwise they're going to have to have these labels and if they're labeled hey warning only good for X skin type then we're having the FDA come in and having indications and if we're having indications that has an effect on us drug facts for example what we can I don't know. To me this is a slippery slope.

[Maggie Stasik]

I totally agree. So we put this out to our audience. We saw a lot of feedback. I was really surprised how divided it was because in my mind the answer is no. There's no age limit. No stores should not be IDing before you purchase. But I was really surprised that a lot of people thought that yes we should. So let's share what some of our social media following had to say. Kiss and Glow Regina says yes, I totally agree that under 18 should not be allowed to use slash use anti aging products. I'm surprised. Interesting.

[Ella Cressman]

I agree. No, I don't disagree with Kiss and Glow Regina that I think that I don't know allow is the right one. They should be discouraged from using it for sure. Cuz I don't think it's appropriate. And I don't think that all appropriate, all products are appropriate for all people either. So I agree with Regina Kiss and Glow Regina. But I also question whose responsibility is that? So on the other hand we have people who are like yes, absolutely. Like OBU facial bar says this can't get past soon enough. Like this is emotion. Like yes, get it done. I can understand Everybody's position. Even VibrantPL aesthetic says I agree there should be an age limit for anti aging products. Hmm, interesting.

[Maggie Stasik]

The Skinsay says I disagree. All skin care is anti aging. Sunscreen is quote unquote anti aging. If anything should have an 18 plus age limit, it should be high potency retinols. Honestly, using Stridex Pets, Noxzema and going hard on St. Ives can cause irritation. And we're not talking about having an age limit on that. This is just my opinion. Do not come for me. I said my piece. My mind isn't changing. Lol.

[Ella Cressman]

I agree. Yes sensei.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes.

[Ella Cressman]

SC and say I agree Like I agree with that too. It's like yeah, like define that and then what parameters are put on that? Very interesting subject.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, I mean she makes a very good point. I don't know if you ever used any of these products. Back in the day I loved my Stridex pads. And if you scrubbed a little too hard at an acne spot, I mean you ate your skin away.

[Ella Cressman]

I had one, one guy tell me like middle school, oh, did you cut yourself shaving? Cause I went in on a like a chin pimple. Same thing. Here's one too. We have mud and Lotus Skincare said if there was an age limit we would then be prescribing. So either estheticians would have to be under medical director or would have to be made more official like a pharmacist. It gets messy. Let people do what people do. Damaged skin keeps us in business. Harsh. It may sound meh like oh yeah. Oh that's interesting. Interesting.

[Maggie Stasik]

I do like that. Damaged skin does keep us in business.

[Ella Cressman]

Job security.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, yeah, for sure.

[Ella Cressman]

Then Skin by Sistashepherd LA says when 8, 9, 10 year olds are consumed with serums, masks and 10 step skincare cleansing routines, it is a problem for me. And I agree with that too. It is the problem. So what do we do though? This? You're going to have these influences. There's still going to be the demand for it. Whose responsibility is that? Is it Ulta and Sephora? Am I going to have to check ID now at my skincare studio? Whose responsibility is that? Though I agree. Like then what?

[Maggie Stasik]

It is not a problem for me. I think if they are consumed by it. Good by them as the esthetician when they come and see me and we have that little consultation, what are you using at home? What are you into? Let's talk about it, let's educate, let's make sure you're using it right or do you need to be even using it at all?

[Ella Cressman]

And then you ask them where they got their eyeshadow. Yeah, cool. Oh, here's mine. Ready? Mm. Liliana Cmld L e says if parents are supposed to be educating their kids but they aren't, then it falls in someone else's shoulders to do so. While I don't see this being highly effective, it does. Does it work for cigarette or vapes? It may be the fastest way to prevent 12 year olds from burning their faces off at their next slumber party.

[Maggie Stasik]

Well, I would say it, you know, I don't know, is Sephora, Ulta, Target, all these places selling products where you have the potential to burn your face off. You can't, you're not going out and buying chemical peels with a, you know, 2.0 ph that 12 year olds are then deciding they're going to have a chemical peel party.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah, I think this might stem from there was these sheet masks that had faces on them and unicorns and there, there was kids using them and there was a reaction. But I think this is different. So that now we're kind of convoluting those two things. I think this is different where we're talking a lot about those face masks that obviously had a really inappropriate solution in integrated into them. We're talking about retinols and glycolics and such too. Then there was a comment made back to Liliana and she replied and she said, well, the real issue Here is when 11 year olds are showing up at urgent care with skin melting off because of a stupid TikTok trend that mommy didn't see coming. So there's more but the TikTok trend. Then why are these kids on TikTok? Do they have to pass an age limit to get on there? Do you know? I don't even know that. Is it like 14 you're asking the.

[Maggie Stasik]

Girl without social media?

[Ella Cressman]

I know this is hypothetical. I just wanna pause for our listeners to go, oh, that's true. So is this ulta's problem? Yeah, is this a TikTok problem? I mean, I get it. I mean I agree with everybody here. Everybody makes valid points. But where does the responsibility lie to check it. I'm curious to see how this shakes out.

[Maggie Stasik]

Me too.

[Ella Cressman]

Can't wait.

[Maggie Stasik]

Now listeners, we want to hear from you. Should there be an age minimum for anti aging skincare products? Share with us on social media through Instagram, Facebook or by emailing getconnectedscpskincare.com thank you for listening to ASCP SDTalk and as always, for more information on this episode, or for ways to connect with Ella and myself, or to learn more about ascp, check out the show Notes.

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