ASCP Esty Talk Episode 317: Young Skin, Mature Products

Release Date: April 16, 2025

Introduction

In Episode 317 of ASCP Esty Talk, hosts Maggie Stasik and Ella Cressman delve into the contentious topic of regulating anti-aging skincare products for minors. The discussion revolves around a newly introduced California bill aimed at prohibiting the sale of anti-aging skincare items to individuals under 18 years old. This episode explores the implications, responsibilities, and broader societal impacts of such legislation, providing valuable insights for estheticians and skincare professionals.

Overview of the California Bill

Maggie Stasik introduces the primary subject:

"There's a new bill in California that aims to make it illegal for companies to sell anti-aging skincare products to anyone under 18. This bill targets products with ingredients like retinol, retinoids, glycolic acid, any other common anti-aging ingredient." (01:45)

The bill seeks to restrict access to potent skincare ingredients typically marketed for adult use, arguing that younger skin may not require or safely handle these compounds.

Pros and Cons of the Legislation

Ella Cressman shares a nuanced perspective:

"It's weird. I have a lot of thoughts and they're polar. I have thoughts that go, yeah, makes sense. Like they obviously shouldn't have access to like retinol if you're 12. But on the other side, what are we saying about these products? You know, that they need to have an ID to purchase them." (02:20)

Ella acknowledges the validity of restricting certain ingredients for minors but raises concerns about the broader implications of requiring age verification for skincare products. She questions the precedent this sets, pondering whether other products like acne treatments should also face similar restrictions.

Impact of Marketing on Younger Consumers

Maggie Stasik highlights the allure of beauty retailers to younger demographics:

"I avoid it like the plague," (03:28) referring to stores like Sephora and Ulta.

Ella elaborates on the sensory appeal and marketing strategies that attract tweens and teens:

"It smells awesome. It smells so good. It's alluring. There are colors everywhere... I will walk in for one thing and $200 later, I'm walking out with stuff I don't need." (03:34)

The hosts discuss how vibrant packaging and enticing scents make anti-aging products particularly appealing to younger audiences, often influenced by social media trends.

Responsibility and Enforcement Challenges

The conversation shifts to who should bear the responsibility for enforcing the age restrictions:

Ella Cressman poses critical questions:

"Where does their responsibility lie? Like, who's responsible for that? The clerk to check the parents, to check the companies?" (03:28)

Maggie Stasik adds:

"If this bill passes, it would require stores to verify the buyer's age. So to your point, where does responsibility lie? According to this bill, it would be the store. And for me personally, I think that is passing the responsibility to the wrong person." (07:14)

Both agree that shifting the burden to retailers may not be the most effective solution and draw parallels to other products like caffeine and sugar, questioning the consistency of such regulations.

Effectiveness and Practicality of the Bill

The hosts contemplate whether the bill would achieve its intended goals:

Ella Cressman suggests that minors might find ways around the restrictions:

"Teens and tweens, they're resourceful, they'll find ways around it if this bill should pass." (08:50)

Maggie Stasik concurs:

"If they want the product, they want the product, they're going to find ways to get it." (08:50)

They debate the practicality of enforcement and whether the bill would genuinely prevent underage use or merely complicate the purchasing process without resolving the underlying demand.

Community Feedback and Diverse Opinions

The episode incorporates feedback from listeners, showcasing a range of opinions:

• Kiss and Glow Regina supports the bill:

  "I totally agree that under 18 should not be allowed to use anti-aging products." (10:00)

• OBU Facial Bar emphasizes the urgency of the issue:

  "Yes, get it done." (10:39)

• The Skinsay offers a nuanced view:

  "All skincare is anti-aging. Sunscreen is quote unquote anti-aging... If anything should have an 18 plus age limit, it should be high potency retinols." (10:39)

• Skin by Sistashepherd LA expresses concern over the exposure of very young children to complex skincare routines influenced by social media trends:

  "When 8, 9, 10 year-olds are consumed with serums, masks and 10-step skincare cleansing routines, it is a problem for me." (12:49)

These varied perspectives highlight the complexity of the issue, balancing consumer autonomy with protective measures for younger skin.

Role of Social Media and Emerging Trends

Ella addresses the influence of platforms like TikTok on youth skincare practices:

"Liliana CMLD L.e says... 11 year-olds are showing up at urgent care with skin melting off because of a stupid TikTok trend that mommy didn't see coming." (14:13)

The hosts discuss the challenge of regulating online content that encourages risky skincare behaviors among minors, questioning the feasibility of enforcing age-related restrictions on digital platforms.

Final Thoughts and Call to Action

As the episode concludes, Maggie Stasik reiterates the importance of professional responsibility:

"If they are consumed by it... as the esthetician when they come and see me and we have that little consultation, what are you using at home? Let's talk about it, let's educate, let's make sure you're using it right or do you need to be even using it at all?" (13:23)

Both hosts emphasize the role of estheticians in educating clients, particularly younger individuals, about appropriate skincare practices.

Conclusion

Episode 317 of ASCP Esty Talk provides a comprehensive examination of the proposed California bill restricting the sale of anti-aging skincare products to minors. Through thoughtful dialogue, Maggie Stasik and Ella Cressman explore the benefits and drawbacks of such legislation, the responsibilities of retailers and professionals, and the broader societal implications of regulating skincare for young consumers. The episode encourages industry professionals to engage in ongoing discussions about best practices and the evolving landscape of skincare regulations.

Connect with ASCP Esty Talk:

For more insights and discussions, listeners are encouraged to engage with the ASCP community through social media platforms like Instagram and Facebook or by emailing getconnected@ascpskincare.com.