ASCP Esty Talk: Episode 319 – The Rogue Pharmacist: The Importance of Hydration

Introduction

In Episode 319 of ASCP Esty Talk, host Maggie Stasik engages in a profound discussion with Ben Fuchs, a skincare formulator and pharmacist, popularly known as the Rogue Pharmacist. The episode delves deep into the critical role of hydration in maintaining healthy skin, challenging conventional beliefs about moisturizers, and exploring the internal factors influencing skin health.

Understanding Dry Skin as a Health Condition

Ben Fuchs begins by redefining dry skin, emphasizing that it is not merely a superficial issue but a significant health condition indicative of internal bodily imbalances. He states, “[...] things that show up on the skin are indicators of things that are happening in the body for the most part” (01:37). Fuchs underscores that conditions like rosacea, eczema, and psoriasis are manifestations of underlying internal problems rather than isolated skin ailments. This perspective shifts the focus from treating dry skin externally to addressing systemic health issues that contribute to skin dryness.

Issues with Current Moisturizers

Fuchs critically examines the prevalent use of moisturizers, arguing that they are fundamentally misunderstood and misapplied in skincare routines. He asserts, “What is moisture? It's water. If you take a sponge and you dip it in water, you say it's moist, right? When you put a moisturizer on your skin, does it feel like a wet sponge? No, it doesn't feel anything like a wet sponge” (05:15). According to Fuchs, traditional moisturizers do not hydrate the skin but merely soften it, creating a deceptive tactile sensation without addressing the actual moisture levels. He further explains that this approach leads to a dependency on moisturizers, exacerbating skin dryness over time: “The more moisturizer you use, the more moisturizer you're going to need. The more moisturizer you use, the drier your skin will be” (10:45).

Skin Structure and Hydration Mechanism

To understand skin hydration, Fuchs delves into the anatomy of the skin, highlighting its three main layers: the dermis, epidermis, and the stratum corneum. He explains the natural hydration process, where blood transports water to the dermis, which then diffuses upwards through the interstitium into the epidermis and eventually into the cells via aquaporins. This process ensures that the skin remains hydrated and healthy. However, as we age, factors like blood viscosity and metabolic changes impede this natural hydration flow, leading to chronic dryness (12:30).

Internal Factors Affecting Hydration

Fuchs emphasizes that skin dryness is a result of internal health issues, including poor nutrient absorption, digestive problems, and metabolic imbalances. He explains, “Dry skin is a metabolic issue and a digestive issue. It's an inside out condition” (18:50). Factors such as impaired fat absorption, often due to gallbladder removal or hormonal changes, disrupt the delivery of essential fatty acids and vitamins crucial for skin hydration. Additionally, conditions like leaky gut syndrome or chronic inflammatory diseases can further hinder nutrient uptake, exacerbating skin dryness.

Recommendations for Skincare Professionals

Fuchs advises estheticians and skincare professionals to adopt a holistic approach when addressing dry skin. Instead of relying on topical treatments, he advocates for enhancing internal health through proper digestion, nutrient absorption, and metabolic support. This includes supplementing with essential fatty acids, vitamins A and D, and using digestive enzymes to improve fat assimilation. He also highlights the importance of lifestyle factors such as regular exercise and adequate hydration to facilitate better blood flow and overall skin health (16:20).

Topical Approaches for Hydration

Despite his criticism of traditional moisturizers, Fuchs acknowledges the role of topical treatments when applied correctly. He recommends using exfoliants like alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) to stimulate skin chemistry and enhance natural moisture factor production. “[Alpha hydroxy acids] will exfoliate, turning everything on. They give you two mechanisms of everything, the anti aging and everything else” (15:33). Additionally, he suggests incorporating vitamins such as vitamin C into skincare routines to nourish and protect the skin, thereby supporting its natural hydration mechanisms without relying on occlusive agents that suppress skin chemistry.

Conclusion

Episode 319 of ASCP Esty Talk provides a compelling argument for rethinking conventional skincare practices related to hydration. Ben Fuchs challenges the efficacy of traditional moisturizers, advocating instead for a comprehensive approach that addresses internal health factors to achieve lasting skin hydration. By understanding the complex interplay between internal bodily functions and external skincare treatments, estheticians can better support their clients in achieving healthy, hydrated skin.

Notable Quotes

• Ben Fuchs [01:37]: “The skin is telling us there's something wrong internally.”
• Ben Fuchs [05:15]: “When you put a moisturizer on your skin, you think you've done something. All you've done is soften.”
• Ben Fuchs [10:45]: “The more moisturizer you use, the more moisturizer you're going to need. The more moisturizer you use, the drier your skin will be.”
• Ben Fuchs [15:33]: “[Alpha hydroxy acids] will exfoliate, turning everything on. They give you two mechanisms of everything, the anti aging and everything else.”
• Ben Fuchs [18:50]: “Dry skin is a metabolic issue and a digestive issue. It's an inside out condition.”

Final Thoughts

This episode serves as an eye-opener for skincare professionals, urging them to look beyond surface-level treatments and consider the holistic health of their clients. By integrating internal health strategies with effective topical treatments, estheticians can offer more comprehensive and lasting solutions for skin hydration and overall health.