Ep 321 – 100 Years of Personal Esthetics

Summary

ASCP Esty Talk – Episode 321: 100 Years of Personal Esthetics

Podcast Information:

• Title: ASCP Esty Talk
• Host/Author: Associated Skin Care Professionals
• Description: Produced by Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP), ASCP Esty Talk and The Rogue Pharmacist is specifically created for estheticians. Where no topic is off limits, we share all kinds of great information on this podcast from ingredients and the science of the skin, to business, and beauty diversity. We hope you come away having learned more about your career, the industry, and maybe even life in general!
• Episode: Ep 321 – 100 Years of Personal Esthetics
• Release Date: May 7, 2025

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1. Introduction to the Episode

Episode 321 of the ASCP Esty Talk, hosted by licensed estheticians Ella Cressman and Maggie Stasik, delves deep into the evolution of personal esthetics over the past century. Titled "100 Years of Personal Esthetics," the episode explores how cultural, technological, and social trends have shaped the way individuals care for their intimate areas.

2. The Flapper Era and Early Body Hair Removal (00:00 – 05:45)

Ella and Maggie kick off the discussion by tracing the origins of women's grooming practices, highlighting the introduction of women's razors between the 1920s and 1940s. Ella explains, "It was between the 1920s and the 1940s... the dress became shorter, like right under the knee, and dresses became sleeveless... so they introduced the razor and marketed it to women" (03:05).

This shift was significantly influenced by the flapper era, where fashion trends like shorter hemlines and sleeveless dresses made body hair more visible, prompting the need for hair removal. Maggie adds context by mentioning the impact of World War I, stating, "During World War I there was a shortage of nylon and so women started shaving their legs" (04:19).

3. The 1970s Feminist Movement and Body Hair (05:45 – 07:10)

Transitioning to the 1970s, the hosts discuss how the feminist movement and hippie counterculture led to a resurgence of body hair as a form of rebellion against traditional beauty standards. Ella notes, "In the 70s, body hair was seen as the antithesis of rebellion... like 'my body, my choice'" (05:47).

This era marked a significant shift where natural body hair became a statement of personal autonomy and resistance against male-dominated beauty norms.

4. The Birth of Brazilian Waxing in the 1980s (07:10 – 09:21)

The conversation moves to the 1980s with the introduction of Brazilian waxing. Ella shares an enlightening anecdote: "In 1987, the J sisters introduced Brazilian waxing in New York... it offered more thorough waxing, removing all or nearly all pubic hair" (06:07).

Maggie reflects on the cultural impact, saying, "I've never heard this story before... it's a huge part of our culture now" (07:38). The Brazilian wax quickly gained popularity, especially among celebrities and models, solidifying its place in mainstream beauty practices.

5. Cultural Norms and Media Influence in the 1990s-2000s (09:21 – 12:54)

Ella and Maggie emphasize the role of media in normalizing intimate waxing. Shows like "Sex in the City" portrayed professional waxing as standard, shifting public perception from personal shaving to professional treatments. Ella remarks, "Now we're going to wax. It was this shaving thing behind the scenes, but now it's professionalized" (08:14).

Maggie adds, "In aesthetic school... if you did not experience a Brazilian, if you didn't know how to give a Brazilian, well, that's it, your career is over" (09:21), highlighting how integral Brazilian waxing became in the esthetics industry.

6. Technological Advancements in Hair Removal (12:54 – 16:15)

The hosts explore the technological advancements that revolutionized hair removal, particularly laser hair removal. Ella shares her personal experience with at-home laser devices: "I have this at home laser hair removal device... it works on my chin hair" (17:21).

Maggie expresses skepticism about at-home treatments, questioning their efficacy: "Can they really sell an over-the-counter laser that is powerful enough to target the follicle?" (17:45). Despite uncertainties, the rise of these technologies offers more options for consumers, aligning with the current trend of increased autonomy in personal grooming.

7. Current Trends: Choice and Body Positivity (16:15 – 19:03)

Reflecting on contemporary trends, Ella and Maggie discuss the growing emphasis on choice and body positivity. Ella summarizes, "The key message here is autonomy. It's not just about fitting in like it used to be. It's about feeling good in your skin" (15:45).

Maggie concurs, noting the influence of Gen Z and platforms like TikTok in promoting diverse beauty standards: "The shift from the full Brazilian to Bush revival is really about freedom of choice" (17:27). This movement encourages individuals to embrace their natural selves or choose grooming practices that make them feel comfortable.

8. Personal Experiences and Anecdotes (19:03 – 21:14)

The hosts share personal stories that illustrate the evolution of intimate aesthetics. Ella recalls her initial discomfort with Brazilian waxing: "I wanted to get it done super fast... I mastered my technique to get it over with because I was uncomfortable" (13:06). Maggie reflects on her early career experiences, emphasizing the necessity of mastering Brazilian waxing for professional success: "I was the only one who performed Brazilian waxing... it was very. It's an intimate Thing and people were modest" (13:52).

These anecdotes underscore the professional and personal transformations estheticians undergo as intimate aesthetics becomes more mainstream.

9. Conclusion: Shift to Self-Care (21:14 – End)

In wrapping up, Ella and Maggie highlight how intimate aesthetics has transitioned from societal expectations to a nuanced form of self-care. They state, "In the last hundred years of waxing, shaving and everything else in between, intimate aesthetics has always been influenced by larger trends, fashion, media, technology and cultural vibes. It started as a reaction to visible skin and has grown into a nuanced personal form of self-care" (19:54).

The episode concludes by inviting listeners to share their thoughts on intimate aesthetics and its cultural influences, reinforcing the podcast's commitment to engaging with its audience on meaningful topics.

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Notable Quotes:

• Ella Cressman (03:05): "It was between the 1920s and the 1940s... the dress became shorter, like right under the knee, and dresses became sleeveless... so they introduced the razor and marketed it to women."
• Maggie Stasik (04:19): "During World War I there was a shortage of nylon and so women started shaving their legs."
• Ella Cressman (05:47): "In the 70s, body hair was seen as the antithesis of rebellion... like 'my body, my choice.'"
• Ella Cressman (06:07): "In 1987, the J sisters introduced Brazilian waxing in New York... it offered more thorough waxing, removing all or nearly all pubic hair."
• Maggie Stasik (07:38): "I've never heard this story before... it's a huge part of our culture now."
• Ella Cressman (08:14): "Now we're going to wax. It was this shaving thing behind the scenes, but now it's professionalized."
• Maggie Stasik (09:21): "In aesthetic school... if you did not experience a Brazilian, if you didn't know how to give a Brazilian, well, that's it, your career is over."
• Ella Cressman (15:45): "The key message here is autonomy. It's not just about fitting in like it used to be. It's about feeling good in your skin."
• Maggie Stasik (17:45): "Can they really sell an over-the-counter laser that is powerful enough to target the follicle?"
• Ella Cressman (19:54): "Intimate aesthetics has always been influenced by larger trends, fashion, media, technology and cultural vibes. It started as a reaction to visible skin and has grown into a nuanced personal form of self-care."

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This comprehensive summary encapsulates the rich discussion between Ella Cressman and Maggie Stasik, providing valuable insights into the historical and cultural shifts in personal esthetics. From the introduction of women's razors in the early 20th century to the modern emphasis on choice and body positivity, the episode offers a nuanced exploration of how intimate aesthetics have evolved over the past century.

Transcript

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[Ella Cressman]

Hello and welcome to ASCP STTalk. I'm Ella Cressman, licensed esthetician and content contributor for Associated Skincare Professionals.

[Maggie Stasik]

I am Maggie Stasik, licensed esthetician and ASCP's program director.

[Ella Cressman]

Oh my gosh, Maggie. I'm so excited. I have to admit that I am thrilled with one current aesthetics trend. One may say I've been waiting for years for it to come back.

[Maggie Stasik]

Is it the bush?

[Ella Cressman]

It's back. Yep, it's back. So today we're going to be diving into something a little personal, a little cultural and a whole lot of history, which I found fascinating. We're talking about intimate aesthetics. Yep. Grooming down there, as they say. And how trends over the past 100 years have shaped the way people care for their most private parts. Are you ready?

[Maggie Stasik]

I am so ready for this. Allah.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay, let's start historically about a couple of things. Have you ever heard of the Pink tax?

[Maggie Stasik]

No.

[Ella Cressman]

You never heard of the Pink tax?

[Maggie Stasik]

No.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay, let's go.

[Maggie Stasik]

That's not what I thought you were going to ask me.

[Ella Cressman]

I know, keeping you guessing. But the pink tax in my mind is saying like certain grooming tools have a higher price that are marketed towards women. And when I think about that, I think about women's shavers.

[Maggie Stasik]

Okay. Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

Like razors.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

Because they are more expensive, they're a different color, and at the end of the day they're doing the exact same thing you are.

[Maggie Stasik]

Right.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah. So. But do you know when they first made their debut women's razors?

[Maggie Stasik]

I Have a good sense, but share with us.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay. It was between the 1920s and the 1940s. And the reason is it's the rise of the leg and underarm hair removal. Before that, we were, we women were covered from wrist to ankle. That was the fashion all seasons, didn't matter what, but that was in fashion. But around the 1920s, something came into fashion called the flapper era. In the flapper era, we had jazz music, speakeasies, prosperity, and really this spirit of rebellion against traditional norms. And that reflected in the dress. So the hemlines became shorter, like right under the knee, and dresses became sleeveless, not to mention they're dancing and raising their arms and doing their thing. So guess what? They're seeing hair. So the razor was introduced and marketed to women. It was the Gillettes, milady's decollete in 1915. So this shift was body hair began to be seen as unfeminine.

[Maggie Stasik]

Also, did you know that During World War I there was a shortage of nylon and so women were burying their legs more because they didn't have nylons to wear. And they started shaving their legs.

[Ella Cressman]

Oh my gosh. You know, I saw a movie about that because they were drawing with a marker. Like back when pantyhose had a seam in the back, they were drawing that seam on with a marker to make it look like they had pantyhose on. Interesting. Well, speaking of World War I, that post World War I era is when we saw something happen with swimwear. Think of before this happened. In fact, I'm going to put it on my social media, so if anyone wants to check out, I'll put it on Instagram. I have this picture of my great grandparents on the beach in like that time, which was the. The swimsuits were below the knee in nearly full body. But in the 50s we saw the high waisted bottoms, like the bikini bottoms. And that changed. Obviously we had at the same time the pinup culture. So the flapper dressed knee started coming up right up to the hip, shall we say. So the grooming shift was that women began trimming and removing hair outside of those bikini lines. That was really the beginning of the clean beauty ideals. Interesting, right?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, so interesting.

[Ella Cressman]

Then on the flip side, we have the 1970s. And in the 1970s we saw the feminist movement, the hippie counterculture. And body hair was seen where it was the rebellion in the 20s. Now it was the antithesis of this where we're rebelling in the 70s and like you can't my body, my choice kind of A situation. And that's when we have seen the trend of the 70s bush. Right. You've heard a lot about that. And really a resistance to what was perceived as male dominated beauty exceptions. Now the next one is really interesting. In the 1980s we had the birth of a very still popular treatment, the birth of the Brazilian. Do you know where that started in the U.S. no, I don't. Okay. So in 1987, the J sisters introduced Brazilian waxing in New York. And the rest is really history. The Brazilian waxing was a result of the types of bikinis that they would wear there. These J sisters were Brazilian, so their swimsuits were smaller and so their grooming habits had to keep up and go within that boundary. So the they opened up a salon in Manhattan and their technique brought straight from Brazil, offered more thorough waxing. And that style removed all or nearly all pubic hair.

[Maggie Stasik]

I've never heard this story before. The history of the Brazilian wax being brought to the US So fascinating to me. It's a huge part of our culture now. And I don't even. I am not aware that the Brazilian wax has ebbed and flowed. Really. I mean there are people who are die hard Brazilian waxers. You know, whatever it is, every month they're coming in, getting their procedure. It doesn't matter what the trend is.

[Ella Cressman]

Totally. And I think that is starts out personal choice or what they think they're supposed to get too. Very interesting. I have a point on that too. And it really took off. It was kind of like the right place at the right time. Because these J sisters quickly grew this clientele that was celebrities, models, media insiders, because they're in New York, which would have been different if they had gone to like, no hate, but like, let's just say Denver, Colorado. It might not have caught on in the same way. But they have these celebrities and so on that really made this topic, which was like a little bit taboo but a little bit desired. Because I want to be like those people who are getting this, you know, trend. So they help normalize this full intimate waxing in western beauty standards. So it really popularized all of it through the 1990s and the 2000s. And then let's get to the 2000s where mainstream normalization of these ideals really sat in thanks to shows like Sex in the City where waxing was standard. Now we're going to wax. It was this shaving thing behind the scenes, personal shaving. To know I'm going to go and have it professionally done. And I think it deserves that. I Say it like, you know, the area deserves that. But this was now standard. Then we saw the rise in other industries and the growing accessibility of spa treatments where more people were going to them. And this Brazilian waxing really becomes a cultural norm. It's no longer as seasonal, it's year round. Because before you'd get it, oh, I'm gonna. It's a summer, I gotta get it done and everything like that. Interesting, right?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, so interesting. And what's interesting to me is that especially having gone through aesthetic school in the early 2000s and eventually having become an instructor in aesthetic school, if you did not experience a Brazilian, if you didn't know how to give a Brazilian, well, that's it, your career is over. Right. And there were so many people going through aesthetic school. Those students who were fearful didn't want to do it, didn't want to give it for whatever their reasons were. And you really had to hold their hand through it. And understandably so. And it's interesting to me, again, just repeating myself, how ingrained that has become in our culture. And I even remember being a teenager and, you know, reading Teen magazine and Cosmo magazine and like, literally being told by these magazines that, well, I should be getting a Brazilian.

[Ella Cressman]

Interesting, right?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

I don't know if this is too much information, but my little cousin never knew. What is that? That was like, not a thing thought that that was always how it was. I see my little cousin, she's in her 30s now, but I remember her in high school, in her 20s, being like, this is normal. I'm like, it's really not normal. It's just culturally accepted. And I'm not saying, like, not normal. I'm just saying, like, no idea what it was like to have the 70s style. That's what we'll call it, the 70s style.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

Well, of course, just like all things aesthetics, technology starts to intervene and so does the medical side. Now we have this waxing, Brazilian waxing. And then the high tech side comes in and says, oh, let's do laser hair removal. So now laser hair removal went mainstream. Have you had laser hair removal in any area?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, me too.

[Ella Cressman]

And I did my version. I never went all in or I guess all out.

[Maggie Stasik]

Read between the lines, people.

[Ella Cressman]

There's the line. There's a line to be drawn. But I did. I just did what I felt comfortable with because I knew trends changed.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

So I did quite a bit.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

And then I left some and then, you know, took care of it on my own.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

And then something happened. We'll talk about later. But, like, in the underarm area, it comes back when you're going through perimenopause.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

FYI, spoiler alert. But then remember of the. This other introduction? Right. So now we have Brazilian waxing. Doing the waxing. Now we have laser hair removal. And then do you remember vajazzling?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay. Yeah. It was like a flash in the pan trend where we're in this Brazilian waxing or this bikini waxing, and now you're adorning with crystals.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

Or like.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, but, you know, that's like, in all things. In esthetics, you have your basics, and then how can we elevate it? Yeah, so we're going to wax it all away and make, like, glitter. Yeah, let's make it extra.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah. And then that turned into. Okay, how about we do facials? Let's do vagacials. Because there's skin there and there's problems in that area that are maybe more visible or as a result of this waxing or the laser or the shaving and those things like ingrown hairs or dark spots or whatever. So then we saw, really, the. In the 2010s, the acceptance of bleaching. We're gonna call it bleaching on purpose right here. And then skin perfecting. So really interesting, right?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. And with all of this extra. To me, this just means that it has also become accepted at this time to expose this body part.

[Ella Cressman]

Quite literally. Yeah, quite literally. Because to your point, in school, everybody's like, I remember seeing one watching one Brazilian, one Brazilian. We watched a video of it. But this acceptance is different, and you feel a little bit more comfortable. I remember doing my first Brazilian after school, by the way. Sorry to your client. It was my first one, but I remember wanting to get it done super fast. So I mastered my technique to get it over with because I was uncomfortable. I didn't want them to be uncomfortable. And it got to a point where I was perfectly comfortable, and it was more about skin health and hair removal, growth patterns and stuff like that. So I became, I don't know, desensitized is the right word. Totally, totally professionalized. Yeah.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, all of the above. And even for me, after school and having learned the Brazilian, I worked one of the spas that I worked in. I was the only one who performed Brazilian waxing. Fine by me, because I was raking in the dough. And it's very interesting how we've had this cultural shift, because at that time, early 2000s, it still was very. It's an intimate Thing and people were modest and nobody wanted to perform that service to now. Oh, no problem. You know, like we went to. Now we're going to stick jewels on it and we're going to flash ourselves to everybody. And everybody's waxing.

[Ella Cressman]

You know, you want to be a model. And they're like, yep, no problem. We're before in school and I think that's the reason I only saw one is to be, oh, I had a lot smaller class, but everyone's like, no, I'm good. I don't want to. I don't want to be a model. Finding a model was really hard.

[Maggie Stasik]

It was, yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

So then we have 2000s and we see this other shift. First of all, as an industry, the intimate brightening. Now, not bleaching, but brightening is a real specialty niche. And it's important to. To understand that those areas are all different. They have different needs. And that's really born into new products for that area. So we don't necessarily take the face stuff and put it there, there, but you know what I mean, in the areas. And that area is expanded to not just the bikini area, but the underarms and so on. And then of course, we have the swing back. I don't wanna say 70s, but now we have, hey, let it grow, let it grow. And I'm back in trend just like that or this partial wax or something like a hybrid like what I had previously. So guess what the biggest trend is today.

[Maggie Stasik]

Tell me.

[Ella Cressman]

Choice. Oh, I love that choice. So whether you're into vagacials or rocking it natural, the key message here is autonomy. It's not just about fitting in like it used to be. It's about feeling good in your skin. So nobody's gonna be giggling at you in the locker room for one way or the other instead of like, cool, do you? So all this really was inspired by the article that you sent me about the return of the bush.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes.

[Ella Cressman]

And one thing that I thought was interesting was this excerpt, if I can. It says around 80% of American women report at least partially removing their pubic hair. As early as 15 women start trimming, shaving, waxing, or pursuing treatments like laser hair removal. So there is a whole generation that is unaware of what natural genitals look like or how they were designed to face the world. There's no mystery.

[Maggie Stasik]

There's no mystery.

[Ella Cressman]

Hopefully we'll start seeing it again.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

So big influence here is TikTok trends, Gen Z body positivity, movement, and then, of course, sustainability concerns. So the shift from the full Brazilian to Bush revival is really about freedom of choice. And that's awesome. Something else to consider though too, these technological advancements. So whatever you choose. Right. Whether you choose to let it grow or take it away, there are also at home devices to help you. I have to admit I've bought one. It's a lot at home laser hair removal. I think I've talked about it.

[Maggie Stasik]

Does it work?

[Ella Cressman]

Well, I've only tried, I'm not trying it there.

[Maggie Stasik]

Where, where are you trying it?

[Ella Cressman]

On my chin hair. But I think.

[Maggie Stasik]

Well, does it work on your chin hair?

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah.

[Maggie Stasik]

Okay.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah, it does. But I think what I could see is that obviously for 150 bucks it's a lot, perceivably a lot cheaper than going and getting a full laser hair cycle.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

But I'll tell you, just on my chin hairs that I've been trying it on.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yep.

[Ella Cressman]

You have to hit the button like three times. First of all, it comes and there's only like a thousand times you can hit the button.

[Maggie Stasik]

Right.

[Ella Cressman]

A firing thing, I guess.

[Maggie Stasik]

Right. Until the bulb burns out, I guess. Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

Is that what's going to happen?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, that's like with a real laser you have so many fires and then it's done.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay, well there you go. This is the at home version. But instead of one. Because when I got in my laser hair I was like. And then that was the hair sizzling. But this one is like viewing. Viewing. Okay, next. You know what I'm saying?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yep, yep.

[Ella Cressman]

So it might not really be cheaper, but what do you think of these like at home laser devices?

[Maggie Stasik]

I am skeptical. I mean I want to believe that it works, but can they really sell an over the counter laser that is powerful enough to target the follicle?

[Ella Cressman]

I'll keep you posted.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. I'm curious to know if it's really killing off your hair.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah, me too. I'm, I'm very curious because I did find like a 1 inch surprise hair the other day on my chin. I was like, where did that go? So I don't know. I, I got it for reasons of obviously a vulnerable moment scrolling through social media and then also. Oh, I can just do that myself at home.

[Maggie Stasik]

Right.

[Ella Cressman]

So we'll see.

[Maggie Stasik]

But I mean, you know, technology advances. We have so many things that are at home use that before never existed were never possible.

[Ella Cressman]

So maybe what do you think of at home bikini or Brazilian waxing?

[Maggie Stasik]

Okay, well listen, when it said that people as early as 15 are starting to da da da da. All the things and teen magazine told me that I had to do it. I was in the bathroom doing it. Didn't end well. I'm like crying. Can't rip the strip.

[Ella Cressman]

So oh my gosh. I have to tell you something else. One time on one of the so like early on, probably 10 years ago, 15 years ago, on one of this like social media groups, I think it was a Facebook group. It was like, help. I had this wax can that had hard wax in it. So I poured some soft wax or vice versa. She had mixed the wax.

[Maggie Stasik]

They mixed it. Oh no.

[Ella Cressman]

Hard wax and soft wax. Put it on and then like she was literally, I don't know how on Facebook asking for help in the bathroom, sitting on the floor because it was too soft to pull like hard wax and it was too hard to put a strip on. So she was literally stuck. We've learned a lot, right? Nonetheless, yeah. Yeah, we've learned a lot. And what we learned today is in the last hundred years of waxing, shaving and really everything else in between, Intimate aesthetics has always been influenced by larger trends, fashion, media, technology and cultural vibes. So it started as a reaction to visible skin has grown into a nuanced personal form of self care. Now listeners, we really want to hear from you. What are your thoughts on intimate aesthetics and how they are influenced by fashion, media, technology and those cultural values? Reach out via Instagram, Facebook or send us an [e-mail] we want to know all the details. In the meantime, thank you for listening to ASCP STTalk. For more information on this episode or for ways to connect with Maggie or myself, or to learn more about ascp, check out the show notes and stay tuned for the next episode of ASCP stdoc.

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