ASCP Esty Talk: Ep 328 – The Rogue Pharmacist: Glycation and Skin Aging

Release Date: June 6, 2025

In Episode 328 of ASCP Esty Talk, hosted by the Associated Skin Care Professionals, Maggie Stasik, ASTP's Program Director, engages in an enlightening discussion with Ben Fuchs, a skincare formulator and pharmacist known as the Rogue Pharmacist. The episode delves into the intricate relationship between glycation and skin aging, uncovering the science behind this lesser-known yet impactful factor in dermatological health.

1. Introduction to Glycation and Its Relevance

The conversation kicks off with Maggie emphasizing the growing awareness of glycation as a significant contributor to aging, beyond its well-known implications in diabetes. She draws parallels between the browning of toast and the body's internal processes to illustrate glycation's effects.

Maggie Stasik [01:37]: "Glycation is best thought of as browning. [...] When you heat bread in a toaster, the sugars and the protein in the bread react with each other and you get a browning effect."

2. What is Glycation?

Maggie provides a comprehensive definition of glycation, explaining it as the reaction between sugars and proteins or fats in the body, leading to the formation of Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs). She highlights glycation as a hallmark of the aging process, affecting various organs and systems.

Maggie Stasik [02:30]: "Glycation is a marker of the aging process. [...] it's one of the hallmark signs of aging is browning."

3. Glycation's Impact on Health and Skin

The discussion transitions to the detrimental effects of glycation on both internal health and skin appearance. Maggie explains how glycation leads to the breakdown of collagen, resulting in wrinkles and loss of skin elasticity. Additionally, she links glycation to serious health issues like heart disease and liver deterioration.

Maggie Stasik [02:50]: "Glycation in the skin is responsible for wrinkles, for breakdown of collagen, breakdown of any protein."

4. Causes of Glycation

Maggie identifies elevated blood sugar levels and insulin resistance as primary drivers of glycation. She provides alarming statistics on sugar consumption, illustrating how excessive intake leads to sustained high blood sugar levels, thereby accelerating the glycation process.

Maggie Stasik [04:50]: "If you drink a Coke, you now have drank 12 teaspoons of sugar. [...] When you think about it in those terms, you could see why we have such a problem with elevated blood sugar."

5. Strategies to Minimize Glycation

a. Dietary Management

Maggie emphasizes reducing sugar intake as the most effective strategy to combat glycation. She advises incorporating fiber into meals to slow sugar absorption and prevent spikes in blood sugar levels.

Maggie Stasik [07:30]: "Keeping your sugar down through intake, through reducing intake, is the most important strategy for reducing glycation."

b. Strengthening Insulin Function

Building muscle mass through exercise is highlighted as a key method to enhance insulin sensitivity, thereby aiding in blood sugar regulation.

Maggie Stasik [08:15]: "Building muscle is one of the best ways you can sensitize your insulin."

c. Nutritional Supplements

Several supplements are recommended for their roles in potentiating insulin or assisting the body in handling sugar, including chromium, vitamin B1 (thiamine), vitamin B3 (niacin), selenium, and fiber.

Maggie Stasik [09:45]: "Chromium, vanadium, probably I don't want to say the best, but one of the best is vitamin B1, thiamine, vitamin B3, niacin, sulfur, selenium."

6. Topical Approaches to Prevent Glycation

The conversation shifts to skincare practices that can mitigate the effects of glycation on the skin. Maggie discusses the benefits of various topical agents:

• Retinol: Recognized as one of the best anti-glycating agents.
• Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): Assist in reducing glycation.
• Niacin and Hyaluronic Acid: Offer anti-glycating benefits.
• Peptides (e.g., Arginine and Lysine): Protect against topical glycation.

Maggie Stasik [10:15]: "Retinol is one of the best topical anti glycating agents. [...] High hyaluronic acid may have some topical anti glycating benefits as well."

She also underscores the importance of sun protection, recommending zinc oxide to prevent heat-induced glycation.

Maggie Stasik [11:30]: "Sun protection will also help slow down glycation because heat speeds up the glycation process."

7. Broader Implications of Glycation on Skin Conditions

Maggie explores how glycation exacerbates skin issues like acne by causing sebum rancidity and inflammation. She suggests that antioxidants like vitamin E and selenium can protect sebum from glycation-related damage.

Maggie Stasik [11:50]: "If your blood sugar's elevated, sebum will glycate and that can accelerate the rancidity of sebum, which can cause inflammatory issues in the follicle for folks who are dealing with acne."

8. Conclusion: Empowering Voluntary Control

Concluding the episode, Maggie reiterates that while glycation poses significant challenges, individuals have control over their sugar intake and, consequently, their glycation levels. She encourages proactive lifestyle and skincare choices to maintain youthful and healthy skin.

Maggie Stasik [12:30]: "Advanced glycation and product formation is almost voluntary in the sense that we have volition in controlling how much sugar we're putting into the body."

Key Takeaways:

• Glycation is a critical yet often overlooked factor in skin aging and overall health.
• Reducing sugar intake is paramount in minimizing glycation and its adverse effects.
• Strengthening insulin sensitivity through diet and exercise can significantly combat glycation.
• Topical treatments like retinol and AHAs can protect the skin from glycation-induced damage.
• Sun protection is essential to prevent heat-accelerated glycation processes.
• Individuals have the power to control glycation through informed lifestyle and skincare choices.

This episode serves as a valuable resource for estheticians and skincare professionals, providing actionable insights into combating skin aging through the management of glycation.