Ep 329 – Summertime Peeling

Summary

ASCP Esty Talk: Episode 329 – Summertime Peeling

Release Date: June 11, 2025
Host: Associated Skin Care Professionals
Co-Hosts: Maggie Stasik & Ella Cressman

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Introduction to Summertime Peeling

In Episode 329 of ASCP Esty Talk, co-hosts Maggie Stasik, ASCP’s Program Director, and Ella Cressman, a licensed esthetician and content contributor, delve into a topic that frequently ignites conversation among estheticians: “Should chemical peels be performed in the summer months?” This episode explores the nuances, risks, and best practices associated with administering chemical peels during the sun-intensive summer season.

Understanding the Risks and Science Behind Summer Peels

The primary concern with performing chemical peels in the summer revolves around sun exposure. Post-peel, the skin's natural barrier is temporarily reduced, heightening vulnerability to UV damage, which can lead to:

• Sunburn
• Hyperpigmentation
• Irritation
• Potential Long-term DNA Damage

Quote:
Maggie Stasik [04:00]: “Our chemical peels exfoliate the skin surface..., once that's removed, the skin underneath... is like a little newborn baby.”

Ella adds that chemical peels "excite the skin," increasing its sensitivity and reactivity, making it more susceptible to adverse reactions from environmental factors like sunlight.

Types of Chemical Peels Suitable for Summer

Contrary to popular belief, performing chemical peels in summer isn't categorically discouraged. With the correct precautions, lighter peels can be safely administered. The hosts discuss various peel types suitable for warmer months:

• Enzyme Peels: Gentle exfoliation promoting hydration and brightening without significant peeling.
• Mandelic Acid Peels: Ideal for summer due to their larger molecular size, allowing for deeper penetration with reduced irritation.
• Lactic and Glycolic Acid Peels: Low to moderate concentrations that offer effective exfoliation while minimizing sensitivity.

Quote:
Ella Cressman [13:00]: “This is a honey enzyme combination. So anything I'm doing is going to be considering brightening and hydrating.”

Client Selection and Consultation

A critical aspect of summertime peels is client selection. Not every client is an ideal candidate for a peel during these months. Factors to consider include:

• Lifestyle: Clients engaging in outdoor activities may require more stringent aftercare protocols.
• Skin Tone: Individuals with higher Fitzpatrick skin types are more prone to hyperpigmentation and require tailored treatments.
• Skin Conditions: Assessing underlying skin issues that might be exacerbated by a peel.

Quote:
Ella Cressman [09:46]: “I consider what they're on first and foremost, what they're using for home care. Also, what are their expectations...”

Managing Expectations and Aftercare

Educating clients about realistic outcomes is essential. Many clients expect dramatic peeling and immediate results, as popularized on social media. However, modern peel technologies offer effective results without overt peeling.

Quote:
Maggie Stasik [11:11]: “You can get great results and not see that peeling. You don't need that kind of wound.”

Ella emphasizes the importance of standard aftercare, primarily focusing on rigorous sun protection. She discusses strategies to ensure clients adhere to SPF protocols, such as:

• Incorporating SPF into Moisturizers: Making it a seamless part of the client’s skincare routine.
• Offering a Range of SPF Formulations: Catering to client preferences, whether they prefer tinted sunscreens or various textures.

Layering Peels: Techniques and Controversies

A notable segment of the discussion centers on layering chemical peels, a technique where multiple peel solutions are applied sequentially to enhance effectiveness. While traditionally taught, some educators argue against this practice. Maggie and Ella share their perspectives:

Quote:
Maggie Stasik [15:50]: “When I was in school and even through the years that I was teaching, we taught layer your peels.”

Ella Cressman [16:26]: “You have to be very familiar with your solutions, your formulas... to successfully layer peels.”

They stress the importance of understanding each peel’s chemistry and ensuring compatibility to avoid adverse reactions. Proper layering can optimize penetration and effectiveness, especially when addressing specific skin concerns.

Personal Experiences and Best Practices

Ella shares a personal anecdote illustrating the potential pitfalls of high-percentage lactics, highlighting the necessity for cautious application:

Quote:
Ella Cressman [14:44]: “I've seen a lot of people welt from higher percentages. Oh, really?”

Maggie reflects on her practical approach, favoring lower percentages and consistent use of treatments:

Quote:
Maggie Stasik [14:26]: “I don't know. She pulled it out of her pocket.”

Their shared experiences underscore the importance of tailoring peel strength and type to individual client needs, especially during seasons with increased sun exposure.

Conclusion and Final Thoughts

The episode wraps up with Maggie encouraging listeners to engage and share their experiences with summertime peels:

Quote:
Maggie Stasik [17:36]: “Now, listeners, we want to hear from you. Do you perform chemical peels in the summer? What's your approach and have you faced any challenges?”

The hosts reiterate that with proper client selection, tailored peel types, and diligent aftercare, performing chemical peels in the summer can be both safe and effective.

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Key Takeaways

• Seasonal Considerations: While summer poses increased risks due to UV exposure, appropriate planning and peel selection can mitigate these concerns.
• Customized Treatments: Understanding each client's lifestyle, skin type, and expectations is crucial for safe and effective peel administration.
• Advancements in Peel Technology: Modern peels offer effective results with minimal peeling, aligning with contemporary client expectations.
• Aftercare is Paramount: Emphasizing rigorous sun protection and realistic aftercare protocols ensures optimal healing and results.
• Technique Mastery: Techniques like layering require a deep understanding of peel chemistry to avoid adverse reactions and maximize benefits.

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Notable Quotes

• Maggie Stasik [04:00]: “Our chemical peels exfoliate the skin surface..., once that's removed, the skin underneath... is like a little newborn baby.”

• Ella Cressman [09:46]: “I consider what they're on first and foremost, what they're using for home care. Also, what are their expectations...”

• Maggie Stasik [11:11]: “You can get great results and not see that peeling. You don't need that kind of wound.”

• Ella Cressman [14:44]: “I've seen a lot of people welt from higher percentages. Oh, really?”

• Maggie Stasik [15:50]: “When I was in school and even through the years that I was teaching, we taught layer your peels.”

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Connect with ASCP Esty Talk:

For more insights, discussions, and expert advice, tune into future episodes of ASCP Esty Talk. Engage with the community on Instagram, Facebook, or email your thoughts and questions to getconnectedcpskincare.com.

Transcript

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[Maggie Stasik]

Hello and welcome to ASCP's Estee Talk. I'm your co host Maggie Stasik and ASCP's program director.

[Ella Cressman]

And I'm your other co host Ella Cressman, licensed esthetician and content contributor for associated Skincare professionals.

[Maggie Stasik]

Ella, today we are tackling a topic that always gets estheticians talking. Should chemical peels be performed in the summer months? What's your initial reaction when you hear this question?

[Ella Cressman]

Yes, me too.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes. Why not? I mean, it's very nuanced issue, right? It is, yeah. So many estheticians, I think at least when I'm chatting out in the wild, they feel cautious because of the sun exposure risks, but with the right precautions, it can be done safely. Would you not agree?

[Ella Cressman]

Yes. And let's also understand that not everyone is frolicking all summer. True. That's what I always think is like, what do you do anyways.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, yeah. So let's understand the controversy and break it down for our listeners. The main concern is that after a peel, the skin obviously is more sensitive and vulnerable to UV damage and which can lead to hyperpigmentation or irritation. And some pros say lighter peels and proper aftercare makes summer peels doable. Are you a person that performs peels in the summer?

[Ella Cressman]

I do.

[Maggie Stasik]

You do?

[Ella Cressman]

All year round. Okay, so there. I know that we have seasons of peels, but my peel season is January to December.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

And here's the thing is, where we live, we're closer to the sun. Yep. And we have outdoor activities all year round too. So we have to be considerate of this all the time. So I, I understand it. I think it's just because it's hot. I think it's because there is longer days. But I do think that we don't have to stop from everyone. We don't have to stop everyone from receiving a peel in any month. We just have to think about their lifestyle.

[Maggie Stasik]

Are there peels that you say, I'm not doing that peel in summer, but I'll do it in winter?

[Ella Cressman]

I'm not doing that. Yeah. Yes. I would say that I wouldn't do in the summer, but I would do it if it's appropriate in another season. Because maybe fall or spring is a better time for it. And those are those deeper, more keratolytic versions.

[Maggie Stasik]

Right.

[Ella Cressman]

But because we have so many different kinds of peels than 25 years ago. Mm. So diverse. There's so many more options. I think that there is literally something for every day.

[Maggie Stasik]

So let's look at what the science says, starting with sunburn, UV exposure. So our chemical peels, they exfoliate the skin surface. That's why we're doing it. And it temporarily reduces the natural barrier against UV rays, the outer layer of our skin, it acts as a shield against the UV rays. And once that's removed, the skin underneath, it's like a little newborn baby. It's delicate, it's highly vulnerable to sunburn, hyperpigmentation, even potentially long term DNA damage if it's not protected. So this is especially true, like you were saying, to those medium and deep peels, which can leave the skin sensitive potentially for a few weeks even.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah. Also, I think that chemical peels excite the skin. They turn on movement. They turn on. They turn it on, basically in the best of meanings here. And so when the skin is activated, if you will, because a lot of times things slow down. So doing the chemical peels speed that up. And so when it's excited, it can be overly excited or more excitable. And so certain triggers. That's why I say no sweating, no wetting, no heavy petting, immediately falling too, because anything overactive can spark results that weren't planned.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, a hundred percent. Your client may have a underlying condition that all of a sudden surfaces when you perform a chemical peel. And then sun exposure can exacerbate that.

[Ella Cressman]

Absolutely.

[Maggie Stasik]

So it's not just about sunburn. Without that protective barrier, the risk of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation can skyrocket, particularly for clients with darker skin tones. Plus, studies show that UV exposure can actually slow down the healing process and increase the risk of complications after a peel. But I will say you can plan for this. So when you have clients that have a higher Fitzpatrick, and I'm sure you're doing this, you're prepping in anticipation of performing the peel to perhaps suppress those melanocytes.

[Ella Cressman]

It's non negotiable really in all clients, but especially the higher Fitzpatrick's. Then there are some or the other consideration is what solution am I using? What acid am I using? It's so much more than just AHA's anymore. We have a lot of carboxylic acids that we can use. Shakemic is a huge one on the scene at the moment. I've seen it in two different brands so far. But it's certain ingredients are inspiring things beyond. So you can have maybe a larger molecular size. Aha. Or a different kind of an acid inside of a peel that's gonna have a change that's going to encourage hydration in the skin that that might be appropriate to use right after vacation.

[Maggie Stasik]

Do you have a standard protocol for prepping all of your clients or does it vary from client to client?

[Ella Cressman]

There are some yes and yes. Yes, I have a standard protocol. The core products, there's always going to be an SPF hydration and then there's always gonna be some sort of melanin. I will say management or melanin. I don't wanna say suppressant. Cause it's so much more than just tyrosinase when we're looking at what's happening. It's also considering the instigation of it. So something that's strengthening the process of melanin development in the first place, including initiation all the way to distribution. So that might change but that we have something in there doesn't. And then a cleanser.

[Maggie Stasik]

And of course you gotta cleanse. Yeah. So let's just touch on practicing safe sun. Obviously we're always stressing the importance and after appeal that's a non negotiable. You used that word a moment ago. So broad spectrum SPF. At least a 30. At least. That's my protocol. Do you vary from that?

[Ella Cressman]

No. Where I do vary because we get that, you know the question at intake or consultations, do you wear sunscreen every day? Only when I'm outside. So I try to hide it, you know like hiding vegetables in your kids food. I hide the SPF and their moisturizer. I carry a few different formulations for that reason. What is going to ensure COM compliance? Is it that they want a tint? Is it that they want more? Is it that they want a light? You know, what's that going to be? So I hide it in there. It's at least an SPF 30. But I do carry up to a 50.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, smart. So you always hear these standard application rules, which may not be suitable for people with their faces out and about during the day, but reapplying every two hours, avoiding sun during peak hours, if you're swimming, sweating, reapply, yada, yada, yada. But when we're talking about application post peel, that's not always feasible. Right. And if you're working and going about your day, you're not going to be reapplying your SPF while you're sitting and working at your desk.

[Ella Cressman]

No, it's unrealistic, let's be honest. What I do suggest is something that's going to protect against UV and hev, because those are really important because you're getting it underneath your light, you're getting it from your computer, depending on where you're working. So I don't know, this is just my opinion. I think you're fine. If you're still washing it off at the end of the day, think that that's still protecting you. Not to say only apply once a day. Just for me, the thought of going to the bathroom on my lunch break, washing my face and then putting back a full face of makeup the way that I want to present myself, that's counterintuitive. I think you're fine. I think you're going to be just fine. Don't worry about it.

[Maggie Stasik]

I agree. Client selection is really important too. And we're talking about not just summertime peels, but just peels in general. So not everyone is going to be a good candidate. And it really depends on their lifestyle, their skin tone, if they're prone to pigmentation or other skin conditions as well. When you're going through your consultation, your clients coming in, maybe they're a first time peeler or it's been a really long time. What are your considerations for moving forward in the peel?

[Ella Cressman]

I consider what they're on first and foremost, what they're using for home care. Also, what are their expectations? If they think they're getting a peel, no problem, I'll give you a peel. Might be an enzyme peel, but you're going to get something. I let them have that in a way that's educated so they understand what they're getting. Are they expecting to sheet peel? Then we have a different conversation. The other thing that I consider is what do they have going on in the next month? What is their commitment to coming back in to see me? So all of those things factor in. The very first thing we do is we talk about their home Care what's in it, Are they ready for something? And then we discuss how they get ready. So it's team us. Team us can make this happen. And I think that provides an opportunity for relationship, for an all season relationship, if you will.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah. You mentioned those clients that come in expecting to sheet peel and maybe expectations have shifted over the years but I feel like so many clients come in with that expectation that they're going to be peeling like a snake and hoping to maybe even within the first peel really target those deep wrinkles or if they have scars, pigmentation. And it's going to happen in a single session. But I think that the technology, if you will, or the chemistry with peels has changed and you can get great results and not see that peeling.

[Ella Cressman]

I a thousand times agree. In fact, I've seen long term damage from people who have previously had those peels. You can see it in their skin when they're even having a lighter treatment too. And then I still watch social media videos of people going this is day one, post XYZ peel. And I'm like, oh. And then they're like this is day three because their face is all like dry and really obviously peeling. And I think you don't need that anymore.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes. You don't need that kind of wound.

[Ella Cressman]

You don't have to have that. You might have if you need that. And you are, it's a very, very small percentage of clients that need that. To me, if you need that much, you're not doing home care. You haven't kept up on like treatments before or you don't plan on having a relationship ongoing with me. So you will not be a good candidate for me. But I'll give you a referral.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

To someone who doesn't have those same expectations or I don't wanna say standards, cause it's not the right word. But that same philosophy.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, yeah, entirely. And we talked just a moment ago about providing alternatives. So it could be that they're getting an enzyme or even starting with an enzyme and then building up to something more aggressive.

[Ella Cressman]

Or a nano facial. Yeah. Like they might be nano needling appropriate. So they're getting something and they have that instant plump when they're leaving and that's what they wanted. And then they're going home and they're preparing for a peel and they can come back.

[Maggie Stasik]

I love that, I love that. So we keep saying peels, we're using the word peels, but we haven't really thrown out any examples. And I, I'm sure people are Listening, thinking, well, what peels would we do in the summer versus the winter?

[Ella Cressman]

Okay, let's just say the formula is they. The. The formula is what is matters. I could do a deeper peel on someone who doesn't go outside and doesn't have any big life events, you know, coming up in the next two weeks. I could do that. But let's say somebody's just a normal patio happy hour kind of summer in the park person. What I would do is, like I said, I have this new. I just got a new shikimic from a company. I love that one. I would do enzymes. I would do. There's this new honey one that's really cool too. This is a honey enzyme combination. So I was working on the barrier at the same time as brightening. Anything I'm doing is going to be considering brightening and hydrating. So enzymes, fat molecule, AHAs, like mandelics are going to be great. I would even go to some lactics. A low percentage lactic or a low percentage glycolic. What would you do?

[Maggie Stasik]

I agree with you. I love mandelic. I actually use a mandelic toner, like every day of the week, which I know that's not appeal people, but kind of still. And in the winter, that's when I am doing my TCAs or my Jessner's, my heavier blends.

[Ella Cressman]

High percentage.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yep, exactly 100%.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah. Those lower percentages are going to low percentage. Little bit higher pH, like 3.5 range.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, yeah. Lactic, I'm doing year round.

[Ella Cressman]

What percentage?

[Maggie Stasik]

Oh, I don't know. Putting me on the spot. 30.

[Ella Cressman]

Ooh. Oh, my. Burn my face.

[Maggie Stasik]

I don't know.

[Ella Cressman]

I don't know. She pulled it out of her pocket.

[Maggie Stasik]

I did.

[Ella Cressman]

I don't. I don't. I have my own views on lactic. It has to be low percentage for me because I've seen a lot of people welt from higher percentages. Oh, really?

[Maggie Stasik]

Interesting.

[Ella Cressman]

All Fitzpatricks, higher percentage. Lactic, in my opinion. I've seen this welting. Did I tell you? I did on my brother.

[Maggie Stasik]

I've never seen welting from a lactic.

[Ella Cressman]

Brand. Are you using? Tell me later. No, but yeah, I've seen it. And I'm like, what is going on? So I recently did it on my brother. Recently, like a couple months ago. And he's, you know, back on the dating scene, trying to get zhuzhed up a little bit. I'm like, oh, you're gonna look great. You're gonna look great. And this is the third Peel. Right. They'd done some to gear up. He's compliant with home care. And then I started seeing these welts on this one. And it was a high percentage. It was supposed to be cryoprotective or something like that. And I was like, oh my gosh. Immediately these just welting in certain spots. So I'm calmly removing it internally, freaking out, you know, this is my brother. Oh my gosh. And so I was like, okay, calm down. And then the next day he's like, is this supposed to look like this? It was dark in certain areas, but he looks fine. He looks fine now. But for that, I just don't touch those high percentage lactics anymore. I'd rather layer. I'd rather use the lower percentage in layer with something else.

[Maggie Stasik]

Ah, layering. So you layer your peels.

[Ella Cressman]

Oh, yes.

[Maggie Stasik]

I feel like that's very controversial.

[Ella Cressman]

Is it?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

Oh, cool.

[Maggie Stasik]

Okay. Actually, I don't know if it's controversial. Everyone listening, weigh in if you agree or disagree. When I was in school and even through the years that I was teaching, we taught layer your peels. But since then, and having practiced as an esthetician, I was taught by multiple educators that you don't do that.

[Ella Cressman]

I love it, I love it. But you have to be very, very, very aware of what you're using. You have to be very familiar with each solution independently.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

Before you start using them together.

[Maggie Stasik]

Also doesn't like size of the molecule matter? Yeah, yeah, yeah, exactly.

[Ella Cressman]

So you want. What is this for?

[Maggie Stasik]

Is this first layer, Is it for water targeting dry skin versus oily skin? We'll say for instance.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah, let's just look at like using a salicylic, like maybe an on off 10% salicylic would prepare the skin to better receive a mandelic. So at this point you've got a mandelic large, large chain, maybe like a 3.5 ph. But when you're. It's adjusting the PKA of it. So when you're adjusting that you're able to penetrate. The mandelic is able to penetrate a little bit deeper than it would if you didn't hadn't used that salicylic.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, the salicylic cleared the way.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah, it's like coming through, coming through. And then how do you finish that off? So being very well, you have to be very familiar with your solutions, your formulas, know all the acids in there, know all the actives in there. So for that I like to use really simple formulas for layering. Like I know some companies have all that in the kitchen sink in their formulas, which are cool, but when I'm when I'm layering, I like to use more simple versions.

[Maggie Stasik]

Now, listeners, we want to hear from you. Do you perform chemical peels in the summer? What's your approach and have you faced any challenges? Share with us on social media through Instagram, Facebook or by emailing getconnectedcpskincare.com thank you for listening to ASCPSDtalk. And as always, for more information on this episode, or for ways to connect with Ella and myself, or to learn more about ascp, check out the show Notes Foreign.

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