ASCP Esty Talk - Episode 330: "Even More 'Off-Label' Skin Care"

Release Date: June 18, 2025
Host/Author: Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP)
Hosts: Ella Cressman and Maggie Stasik

Introduction

In Episode 330 of ASCP Esty Talk, titled "Even More 'Off-Label' Skin Care," hosts Ella Cressman, a Licensed Esthetician and Content Contributor, and Maggie Stasik, a Licensed Esthetician and ASCP's Program Director, delve into the intriguing world of off-label skincare practices. This episode aims to educate estheticians and skincare enthusiasts about unconventional uses of common products, highlighting both their potential benefits and associated risks.

Shout Out and Definition of Off-Label Use

Ella Cressman (01:37):

"Shout out to remind everyone to check out the gorgeous issue of Skin Deep. It's really, really good. There's lots of beautiful content, US Day of the Year, great articles and of course a feature by yours truly on off-label use."

Ella introduces the concept of off-label use, defining it as:

"Using skincare products in ways not originally tested or marketed."

She emphasizes the prevalence of this practice across various domains, not limited to skincare, citing Ozempic as a weight loss agent initially intended for lowering blood sugar.

Main Segment: "Does Maggie Do It?"

The hosts engage in a playful yet informative game titled "Does Maggie Do It?", where they explore several off-label skincare practices. Each segment includes a discussion on the method, its efficacy, potential risks, and safer alternatives.

1. Toothpaste for Acne (03:29)

• Ella Cressman:

  "Toothpaste often contains drying agents like baking soda or triclosan. Here's the risk, though. It's too alkaline. It can be too alkaline and irritating for facial skin. And it could cause chemical burn."

• Maggie Stasik:

  "I graduated from toothpaste and now I use benzoyl peroxide a little bit too addictively."

Conclusion: Instead of using toothpaste, opt for topical spot treatments containing sulfur or salicylic acid.

2. Cortisone Cream for Dark Circles (04:55)

• Ella Cressman:

  "Cortisone cream works because it reduces inflammation and puffiness. However, the risk is long-term use thins the under-eye skin and could cause telangiectasia."

• Maggie Stasik:

  "I have never done it."

Conclusion: Use caffeine peptides or arnica for safe, daily eye care.

3. Monistat Chafing Gel as Makeup Primer (05:44)

• Ella Cressman:

  "Monistat contains dimethicone, similar to silicone primers. The risk is that it's not formulated for facial pH or acne-prone skin."

Conclusion: Choose mattifying primers with skin-soothing actives instead.

4. Milk of Magnesia for Oily Skin (06:46)

• Ella Cressman:

  "Some use milk of magnesia because it absorbs oil and acts like a mattifier. The risk is its high alkalinity, which can disrupt the acid mantle and cause irritation."

• Maggie Stasik:

  "If you don't wanna wash your hair, I put some baking soda in there—my own dry shampoo."

Conclusion: Recommend clay-based or salicylic acid mattifiers instead.

5. Antihistamine Cream for Redness (07:54)

• Ella Cressman:

  "Antihistamine creams reduce histamine-induced flushing or irritation, but they may mask symptoms of a true allergic reaction."

Conclusion: Use redness-reducing serums with ingredients like niacinamide or azelaic acid, and always perform a patch test.

6. Nipple Cream as Lip Balm (08:27)

• Ella Cressman:

  "Nipple creams are rich and occlusive, making them seemingly suitable for dry or chapped areas. However, they often contain lanolin, which can cause breakouts near the mouth."

Conclusion: Stick to lip balms formulated with shea butter, beeswax, or plant-based oils.

7. Neosporin for Acne (09:23)

• Maggie Stasik:

  "I'm a picker, and sometimes it goes too far."

• Ella Cressman:

  "Overusing antibiotic lotions like Neosporin can lead to resistance and they aren't meant for acne."

Conclusion: Utilize traditional benzoyl peroxide or other anti-inflammatory spot treatments instead.

8. Aspirin Mask (09:59)

• Ella Cressman:

  "Crushing aspirin to make a mask carries risks of irritation and uneven application."

• Maggie Stasik:

  "If you're spreading crushed aspirin on your face, that just sounds like bad news."

Conclusion: Opt for products with beta hydroxy acids in mask form, preferably containing clay for exfoliation with reduced risk.

9. Vicks VapoRub for Stretch Marks or Fat Reduction (11:23)

• Ella Cressman:

  "Camphor and menthol in Vicks create a tightening sensation, leading to assumptions about stretch mark reduction or fat loss. However, there's no actual impact on fat cells or collagen."

Conclusion: Encourage body firming topicals with peptides or other body contour treatments instead.

Conclusion and Final Thoughts (12:00 - 13:10)

Ella Cressman:

"Skincare is both an art and a science. While there's something fun about these DIY and unexpected off-label solutions, nothing beats a formula created with purpose and a pro who knows your skin. So yes, the diaper cream might help, but a great calming serum is probably better. Keep your zinc where it belongs, your eyes off the hemorrhoid aisle, and your standards high."

She encourages listeners to engage with Skin Deep magazine and share their own experiences with off-label hacks via social media or email.

Key Takeaways

• Off-Label Use Caution: While experimenting with unconventional products can be tempting, it's essential to be aware of potential risks and opt for scientifically formulated alternatives.

• Professional Guidance: Consulting with skincare professionals ensures that treatments are both effective and safe, tailored to individual skin needs.

• Continuous Learning: Staying informed through resources like Skin Deep magazine and engaging with the skincare community can enhance both professional practice and personal skincare routines.

Notable Quotes

• Ella Cressman (01:38):

  "Off-label use is definitely a whole vibe."

• Maggie Stasik (05:59):

  "I have never done it."

• Ella Cressman (11:00):

  "Keep your zinc where it belongs, your eyes off the hemorrhoid aisle, and your standards high."

Note: This episode emphasizes the importance of using products as intended and the potential dangers of deviating from established skincare practices. For more insights and discussions, listeners are encouraged to stay tuned to future episodes of ASCP Esty Talk.