Ep 330 – Even More “Off-Label” Skin Care

Summary

ASCP Esty Talk - Episode 330: "Even More 'Off-Label' Skin Care"

Release Date: June 18, 2025
Host/Author: Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP)
Hosts: Ella Cressman and Maggie Stasik

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Introduction

In Episode 330 of ASCP Esty Talk, titled "Even More 'Off-Label' Skin Care," hosts Ella Cressman, a Licensed Esthetician and Content Contributor, and Maggie Stasik, a Licensed Esthetician and ASCP's Program Director, delve into the intriguing world of off-label skincare practices. This episode aims to educate estheticians and skincare enthusiasts about unconventional uses of common products, highlighting both their potential benefits and associated risks.

Shout Out and Definition of Off-Label Use

Ella Cressman (01:37):

"Shout out to remind everyone to check out the gorgeous issue of Skin Deep. It's really, really good. There's lots of beautiful content, US Day of the Year, great articles and of course a feature by yours truly on off-label use."

Ella introduces the concept of off-label use, defining it as:

"Using skincare products in ways not originally tested or marketed."

She emphasizes the prevalence of this practice across various domains, not limited to skincare, citing Ozempic as a weight loss agent initially intended for lowering blood sugar.

Main Segment: "Does Maggie Do It?"

The hosts engage in a playful yet informative game titled "Does Maggie Do It?", where they explore several off-label skincare practices. Each segment includes a discussion on the method, its efficacy, potential risks, and safer alternatives.

1. Toothpaste for Acne (03:29)

• Ella Cressman:

  "Toothpaste often contains drying agents like baking soda or triclosan. Here's the risk, though. It's too alkaline. It can be too alkaline and irritating for facial skin. And it could cause chemical burn."

• Maggie Stasik:

  "I graduated from toothpaste and now I use benzoyl peroxide a little bit too addictively."

Conclusion: Instead of using toothpaste, opt for topical spot treatments containing sulfur or salicylic acid.

2. Cortisone Cream for Dark Circles (04:55)

• Ella Cressman:

  "Cortisone cream works because it reduces inflammation and puffiness. However, the risk is long-term use thins the under-eye skin and could cause telangiectasia."

• Maggie Stasik:

  "I have never done it."

Conclusion: Use caffeine peptides or arnica for safe, daily eye care.

3. Monistat Chafing Gel as Makeup Primer (05:44)

• Ella Cressman:

  "Monistat contains dimethicone, similar to silicone primers. The risk is that it's not formulated for facial pH or acne-prone skin."

Conclusion: Choose mattifying primers with skin-soothing actives instead.

4. Milk of Magnesia for Oily Skin (06:46)

• Ella Cressman:

  "Some use milk of magnesia because it absorbs oil and acts like a mattifier. The risk is its high alkalinity, which can disrupt the acid mantle and cause irritation."

• Maggie Stasik:

  "If you don't wanna wash your hair, I put some baking soda in there—my own dry shampoo."

Conclusion: Recommend clay-based or salicylic acid mattifiers instead.

5. Antihistamine Cream for Redness (07:54)

• Ella Cressman:

  "Antihistamine creams reduce histamine-induced flushing or irritation, but they may mask symptoms of a true allergic reaction."

Conclusion: Use redness-reducing serums with ingredients like niacinamide or azelaic acid, and always perform a patch test.

6. Nipple Cream as Lip Balm (08:27)

• Ella Cressman:

  "Nipple creams are rich and occlusive, making them seemingly suitable for dry or chapped areas. However, they often contain lanolin, which can cause breakouts near the mouth."

Conclusion: Stick to lip balms formulated with shea butter, beeswax, or plant-based oils.

7. Neosporin for Acne (09:23)

• Maggie Stasik:

  "I'm a picker, and sometimes it goes too far."

• Ella Cressman:

  "Overusing antibiotic lotions like Neosporin can lead to resistance and they aren't meant for acne."

Conclusion: Utilize traditional benzoyl peroxide or other anti-inflammatory spot treatments instead.

8. Aspirin Mask (09:59)

• Ella Cressman:

  "Crushing aspirin to make a mask carries risks of irritation and uneven application."

• Maggie Stasik:

  "If you're spreading crushed aspirin on your face, that just sounds like bad news."

Conclusion: Opt for products with beta hydroxy acids in mask form, preferably containing clay for exfoliation with reduced risk.

9. Vicks VapoRub for Stretch Marks or Fat Reduction (11:23)

• Ella Cressman:

  "Camphor and menthol in Vicks create a tightening sensation, leading to assumptions about stretch mark reduction or fat loss. However, there's no actual impact on fat cells or collagen."

Conclusion: Encourage body firming topicals with peptides or other body contour treatments instead.

Conclusion and Final Thoughts (12:00 - 13:10)

Ella Cressman:

"Skincare is both an art and a science. While there's something fun about these DIY and unexpected off-label solutions, nothing beats a formula created with purpose and a pro who knows your skin. So yes, the diaper cream might help, but a great calming serum is probably better. Keep your zinc where it belongs, your eyes off the hemorrhoid aisle, and your standards high."

She encourages listeners to engage with Skin Deep magazine and share their own experiences with off-label hacks via social media or email.

Key Takeaways

• Off-Label Use Caution: While experimenting with unconventional products can be tempting, it's essential to be aware of potential risks and opt for scientifically formulated alternatives.

• Professional Guidance: Consulting with skincare professionals ensures that treatments are both effective and safe, tailored to individual skin needs.

• Continuous Learning: Staying informed through resources like Skin Deep magazine and engaging with the skincare community can enhance both professional practice and personal skincare routines.

Notable Quotes

• Ella Cressman (01:38):

  "Off-label use is definitely a whole vibe."

• Maggie Stasik (05:59):

  "I have never done it."

• Ella Cressman (11:00):

  "Keep your zinc where it belongs, your eyes off the hemorrhoid aisle, and your standards high."

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Note: This episode emphasizes the importance of using products as intended and the potential dangers of deviating from established skincare practices. For more insights and discussions, listeners are encouraged to stay tuned to future episodes of ASCP Esty Talk.

Transcript

[SkinScript Team]

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[Ella Cressman]

Hello and welcome to ASDP Essie Talk. I am your co host Ella Cressman, Licensed Esthetician and Content Contributor for Associated Skincare Professionals.

[Maggie Stasik]

I am Maggie Stasik, licensed esthetician and ASCP's program director.

[Ella Cressman]

We have a shout out.

[Maggie Stasik]

Who is it?

[Ella Cressman]

Myself.

[Sponsor Representative]

What?

[Ella Cressman]

This is a thirst trap. Shout out to remind everyone to check out the gorgeous issue of Skin Deep. It's really, really good. There's lots of beautiful content, US Day of the year, great articles and of course a feature by yours truly on off label use. And it was a really fun article to write. There is so many ways that use off label in our practices, but I just had to pick a few. But let's define what off label use really is. It's using skincare products in ways not originally tested or marketed. So as you're listening, think of those ways you're using something out of the way it should be. Now this practice is not exclusive to skincare. In the article I give the example of Ozempic for weight loss. Obviously this drug is very familiar by pretty much everybody, but it was originally intended to lower blood sugar or glucose and of course we come to know it as a weight loss drug. So another way to think about it is the Windex on everything from A Big Fat Greek Wedding. You know, just put a little of this on that. So a lot of off label hack opportunities. Whether it's TikTok telling you to put glycolic acid in your armpits or Grandma recommending hemorrhoid cream under your eyes, off label use is definitely a whole vibe. So Maggie, obviously SDTOC is where we get real about the world of skincare treatments, trends and the truth hiding under the surface. So today let's take a peek at Your bathroom cabinet. Because chances are something in there is being used off label. Let's talk about science myths and the line between brilliance and burn with a game of Does Maggie do it? Are you in?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, let's do it.

[Ella Cressman]

Or Does Maggie have it? Okay, so here's one. Off label use. I know that I've done before, but toothpaste for acne, have you ever done it?

[Maggie Stasik]

Oh, I have done it.

[Ella Cressman]

Or recommended it.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yep.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay, let's talk about why this works. Toothpaste often contains drying agents like baking soda or triclosan. Here's the risk, though. It's too alkaline. It can be too alkaline and irritating for facial skin. And it could cause chemical burn. So instead of using toothpaste for acne, how about use a real topical spot treatment? Maybe one with sulfur or salicylic acid.

[Maggie Stasik]

Right. I graduated from toothpaste and now I use benzoyl peroxide A little bit too addictively.

[Ella Cressman]

Yes.

[Maggie Stasik]

But I will tell you, I got a sample spot treatment in like a schwag bag or something. And it. It has sage in it, I think.

[Ella Cressman]

Mmm. I love sage.

[Maggie Stasik]

Side note here, it smells like weed.

[Ella Cressman]

Oh, do you. Are you sure? Do you know what weed smells like?

[Maggie Stasik]

I do know. I do know.

[Ella Cressman]

Oh, does Maggie do it?

[Maggie Stasik]

I'm just saying.

[Ella Cressman]

Is that the one that we got in the. The wine night? Yes. Okay.

[Maggie Stasik]

You know what I'm talking about?

[Ella Cressman]

No. I'm gonna have to smell it now.

[Maggie Stasik]

I think maybe it's not sage, but there's something in there.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay, I'll take it out.

[Maggie Stasik]

Smell it.

[Ella Cressman]

I think it's in my office.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay. All right, next on Does Maggie do it? How about cortisone cream for dark circles?

[Maggie Stasik]

I have never done it, but I have heard of it. We're talking about, like, hemorrhoid cream, right?

[Ella Cressman]

No. Cortisone cream.

[Maggie Stasik]

Oh.

[Ella Cressman]

No. Hemorrhoid cream is in the article. And it works because it has vasodilation.

[Maggie Stasik]

Why would you use cortisone cream?

[Ella Cressman]

Because supposedly it helps to reduce inflammation and puffiness.

[Maggie Stasik]

I have never done it.

[Ella Cressman]

Here's the thing, here's the risk. Long term use thins the under eye skin and could cause telangiectasia. So instead, use caffeine peptides or arnica for safe, daily eye care. Since you brought it up, the hemorrhoid cream for. For like, puffiness? Yeah. I did meet this person at a networking event and she was beautiful, smooth skin. And she must have been in her late 60s at the time. This is probably like 20 years ago. And people in their late 60s look like people in the late 60s where now they don't. They look like their 50s or 40s. And I was like, my gosh, you have beautiful skin. She's like, yeah, Preparation H every day for 25 years. I'm like, oh, my gosh. So something to it. I wouldn't do it, but okay, ready? Next on Does Maggie do it? Monistat chafing gel as makeup primer. No, Maggie doesn't do. Oh, let's see why other people use it. It cont dimethicone. And these are similar to silicone primers. The risk is that this is obviously not formulated for facial ph or acne prone skin. Instead, try a mattifying primer with skin soothing actives. That is a safer bet. You ready? Yeah. Number four, milk of magnesia for oily skin.

[Maggie Stasik]

Okay.

[Ella Cressman]

No, you don't do it.

[Sponsor Representative]

Have you.

[Ella Cressman]

Thanks for thinking about it.

[Maggie Stasik]

No. Nope.

[Ella Cressman]

Have you ever heard of anybody doing this?

[Maggie Stasik]

No.

[Ella Cressman]

Me neither. So come to find out, the reason why some people use it is because it absorbs oil and it acts like a mattifier. No, don't do this. Just be aware that people do practice this. I guess there's a risk. The risk is that there's high. It's highly alkaline and it could disrupt the acid mantle, causing irritation. Good to be aware of though, in case you have someone. Because you know TikTok's gonna find this or somebody's gonna push this on some social media and people will try it. So instead recommend a clay based or salicylic acid mattifier.

[Maggie Stasik]

I will say here's a little hack for you. If you don't wanna wash your hair, which I have been in this position, gets a little ick, I will put some baking soda in there.

[Ella Cressman]

Oh, your own dry shampoo.

[Maggie Stasik]

My own dry shampoo. Does Maggie do it?

[Ella Cressman]

Yes. Okay. This is one I don't. I'm gonna say might have. How about antihistamine cream for redness?

[Maggie Stasik]

No, no, no, no.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay.

[Maggie Stasik]

Have you done this?

[Ella Cressman]

No, I never even thought about it.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah, same.

[Ella Cressman]

But I do use antihistamine post wax.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

People, sure.

[Maggie Stasik]

Okay. Yep.

[Ella Cressman]

So the reason why this works is obviously it reduces the histamine induced flushing or irritation. However, the risk is this may mask symptoms of a true allergic reaction. So instead, patch test and use redness reducing serums with ingredients like niacinamide or azelaic acid. Okay. Does Maggie do it? Nipple cream is a lip balm.

[Maggie Stasik]

I don't even know what nipple Cream is.

[Ella Cressman]

Well, let me tell you. Tell me as the other non mother in this group.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes, share with me.

[Ella Cressman]

Apparently there's chafing that happens during breastfeeding. So you put a cream on to help.

[Maggie Stasik]

I see.

[Ella Cressman]

Yeah. In the sensitive area.

[Maggie Stasik]

Okay.

[Ella Cressman]

I don't think you've ever. I agree that you probably would have never done this because you never had it laying around and why not put.

[Maggie Stasik]

It on your lips?

[Ella Cressman]

Okay. So the reason that some may do this is because it's rich and occlusive, so it's great for dry or chapped areas. However, some people are allergic to lanolin, which is most, most of the time formulated into these nipple creams. So you can risk breakouts, especially if you're using it near the mouth. So instead of stick to lip balm formulated with shea beeswax or plant based oils, the next one. I could see you doing this on a Del Taco night, but I'm not sure. I never even thought about this. Neosporin for acne?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes, I have done this.

[Ella Cressman]

You have done this?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes. I'm a picker and sometimes it goes too far.

[Ella Cressman]

Sometimes it goes too far. And that's because of the antibacterial part of it.

[Maggie Stasik]

Well, Neosporin I equate with healing the wounds.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay, the wounds. The excoriation.

[Maggie Stasik]

The excoriation, exactly.

[Ella Cressman]

Well, overusing these like antibiotic or. Or whatnot lotions, they can lead to resistance. And because they're not meant for acne, perhaps instead try your little favorite benzoyl peroxide or any other anti inflammatory spot treatment instead.

[Maggie Stasik]

Okay.

[Ella Cressman]

I love this one. I don't think you've done it, but I think you might try it later. How has Maggie done it? An aspirin mask.

[Maggie Stasik]

No, that sounds dangerous. What is that?

[Ella Cressman]

I guess it's when you crush up aspirin and make a mask out of it and put it on and. Interesting the progression of this from willow bark. Right. Willow bark is where aspirin comes from. The birth of pharmaceuticals is nature.

[Maggie Stasik]

Yeah.

[Ella Cressman]

And then salicylic acid is obviously a cousin. So aspirin contains acetylsalicylic acid. Very similar, but not the same. Because they're not the same, there could be risk of irritation, uneven application or contamination. We were told this. I hate when people say I was told, but in school, our instructor, by the way, was not a esthetician, she was a cosmetologist. She said, yeah, if you have a pimple, you can just crush up an aspen. Like if you're traveling and put it on and It'll fix it.

[Maggie Stasik]

I'm at a loss for words. Also, I feel like if you're crushing up aspirin and spreading it all over your face, that just sounds like bad news.

[Ella Cressman]

Well, it is.

[Maggie Stasik]

I don't know.

[Ella Cressman]

Instead, I don't know. Use a product formulated with beta hydroxy acids that is in the form of a mask, probably with some clay perhaps. Same exfoliation, less risk, right?

[Maggie Stasik]

Yes.

[Ella Cressman]

Okay, finally. This is one I'm going to try, even though I know it's off label. Has Maggie done it? Vicks vaporug for stretch marks or fat reduction?

[Maggie Stasik]

I have never done it, no.

[Ella Cressman]

I wonder how many people have done it. Like, culturally, there's, there's a culture that uses Vicks VapoRub like the my Big Fat Greek Wedding uses Windex for everything. But this. Theoretically, camphor and menthol create this tightening feeling. And that could be the guess assumption that this is tightening stretch marks or try or, you know, reducing fat. But the risk is that it's sensitizing and there's really no actual impact on fat cells or collagen. So instead, encourage body firming topicals with peptides or some other sort of body contour treatment instead. Well, thanks for playing. We learned a lot about you today. I'm super excited to take all this back to my diary tonight. Okay, so in summary, here's the thing. Skincare is both an art and a science. While there's something fun about these DIY and unexpected off label solutions, nothing beats a formula created with purpose and a pro who knows your skin. So yes, the diaper cream might help, but a great calming serum is probably better. Keep your zinc where it belongs, your eyes off the hemorrhoid aisle, and your standards high. Check out the latest issue of Skin Deep and let us know, listeners. We really want to hear from you. Have you tried an off label hack that worked or didn't Reach out via Instagram, Facebook or send us an [e-mail] we want to know all the details. In the meantime, thank you for listening to ASCP STTalk. For more information on this episode, or for ways to connect with Maggie or myself, or to learn more about ascp, check out the show notes and stay tuned for the next episode of ASCP STTalk.

[Sponsor Representative]

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[Maggie Stasik]

Services.

[Sponsor Representative]

For more information, visit lampprobe.com that's L A M P R O B E dot com and follow Lamprobe on social media. Lampprobe.