ASCP Esty Talk: Ep 335 – The Rogue Pharmacist: Seed Oils
Release Date: July 18, 2025
Host: Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP)
Guest: Benjamin Knight Fuchs, Pharmacist and Skincare Formulator
Introduction
In Episode 335 of ASCP Esty Talk, titled "The Rogue Pharmacist: Seed Oils," host Maggie Stasik engages in an in-depth discussion with Benjamin Knight Fuchs, a pharmacist and skincare formulator. The conversation delves into the complexities of seed oils in skincare, exploring their biochemical properties, extraction methods, and the implications for both skin health and overall well-being.
Understanding Seed Oils
Benjamin Knight Fuchs begins by elucidating the fundamental nature of seed oils:
“A seed represents some serious, serious power on planet Earth. And one of the ways a seed gets its power is from oils. Oils are trapped sunlight.”
— [02:37]
He explains that oils in seeds are a concentrated form of energy essential for germination. These oils, rich in fatty acids, are crucial for plant growth but present challenges when utilized in skincare products.
Extraction Methods and Their Implications
Fuchs critiques the common extraction methods for seed oils, highlighting the prevalence of solvent extraction in the skincare industry:
“Most oils that are used in skincare products are extracted via solvent extraction. So right away you've got solvent.”
— [06:11]
He emphasizes that solvents such as benzene and hexane, akin to those used in dry cleaning, are not entirely removed during the extraction process. The residual presence of these toxic chemicals poses significant risks:
“Solvents are very toxic. So right away, even before you get into the oil, you've got the problem with the solvents.”
— [06:11]
While cold pressing is mentioned as a safer alternative, Fuchs notes its inefficiency and high cost, making it less favored by skincare companies aiming to minimize expenses.
The Double-Edged Sword of Oils: Instability and Oxidation
Fuchs delves into the biochemical instability of seed oils:
“Oils are very powerful in nature... when something's unstable, it has to be controlled. So in nature, in seed, you got a problem, you got this powerful source of energy, but it's unstable.”
— [03:37]
The instability leads to oxidation, commonly referred to as rancidity. This process not only degrades the oil but also renders it pro-inflammatory, adversely affecting skin health:
“Oxidation is contagious... it accelerates the aging process... it's pro-inflammatory.”
— [09:45]
He further explains that oxidative oils do not provide any beneficial nutritional value to the skin. Instead, they offer only superficial softness by compromising the stratum corneum—a protective layer of dead skin cells.
Impact on Skin and Health
The conversation shifts to the repercussions of using oxidized seed oils in skincare:
“When you put an oxidized product on your skin, you are putting an oxidized, rancid, broken down oil on the skin.”
— [14:22]
Fuchs warns that such practices not only negate any potential benefits but actively contribute to skin aging and inflammation. He extends this concern to internal health, linking the consumption of oxidized oils to chronic degenerative diseases, including cancer and leaky gut syndrome.
Why Skincare Companies Favor Seed Oils
Fuchs attributes the widespread use of seed oils in skincare to their cost-effectiveness and consumer perception:
“Because these oils are cheap... and the perception that the consumer has with the idea that, oh, it feels soft, makes oils ideal for skincare companies to use.”
— [16:05]
Despite their known drawbacks, the economic advantage and the superficial benefits of softness drive skincare companies to continue utilizing these oils.
Recommendations for Estheticians and Consumers
Fuchs provides actionable advice for skincare professionals and consumers aiming to make informed choices:
-
Choose Stable Oils: Opt for oils like coconut oil, butter, or lard, which are more stable and less prone to oxidation.
“Irrespective of your preference, the most stable oils are coconut oil, butter, and, believe it or not, lard.”
— [15:30] -
Prefer Jojoba Oil: Although technically a wax, jojoba oil mimics the skin's natural sebum and does not oxidize.
“If you have to use an oil use jojoba oil... it's extremely stable.”
— [16:50] -
Incorporate Antioxidants: Adding vitamin E, selenium, and zinc can help protect against oxidative damage.
“Ingest lots of these lipid protecting antioxidants. Vitamin E is one, but there's a lot of selenium and zinc.”
— [16:20] -
Read Ingredient Decks: Vigilantly check product labels for the presence of problematic seed oils and understand their extraction methods.
“Read your ingredient decks. Your ingredient decks will tell you everything you need to know.”
— [17:00]
Fuchs emphasizes the importance of education and informed decision-making in choosing skincare products that truly benefit the skin.
Conclusion
In this episode of ASCP Esty Talk, Benjamin Knight Fuchs sheds light on the often-overlooked issues surrounding seed oils in skincare. By breaking down the biochemical challenges and industry practices, he empowers estheticians and consumers to make choices that prioritize skin health and overall well-being. The discussion underscores the necessity of transparency in product formulations and the critical role of antioxidants in mitigating oxidative damage.
For more insights and information, listeners are encouraged to connect with Benjamin Knight Fuchs through Truth Treatments and explore further educational resources provided by the Associated Skin Care Professionals.
Note: This summary excludes introductory and concluding remarks, advertisements, and non-content sections to focus solely on the substantive discussion about seed oils.