ASCP Esty Talk: Episode 338 – The Rogue Pharmacist: The Acid Mantle

Release Date: August 1, 2025
Host: Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP)
Guest: Benjamin Knight Fuchs, Skincare Formulator and Pharmacist

Introduction

In Episode 338 of ASCP Esty Talk, titled "The Rogue Pharmacist: The Acid Mantle," host Maggie Stasik engages in an in-depth conversation with skincare formulator and pharmacist Benjamin Knight Fuchs. The discussion delves into the critical role of the acid mantle in maintaining skin health, exploring both internal and external factors that influence this delicate balance.

Understanding the Acid Mantle

[01:27] Maggie Stasik: "As estheticians we all know the acid mantle plays a crucial role in skin health. But let's dig deeper. What's actually happening at the chemical level that makes the acid mantle so essential for barrier function?"

Benjamin Knight Fuchs provides a foundational understanding of the acid mantle, emphasizing its importance in skin barrier function. He explains that the acid mantle is a thin, acidic film on the skin's surface, typically ranging between a pH of 4 to 5. This acidity is vital for protecting the skin from pathogens and maintaining overall skin health.

Acid vs. Alkaline: The Science Behind pH

Fuchs breaks down the concepts of acidity and alkalinity, clarifying common misconceptions:

• pH Scale: "pH scale real quickly goes from 0 to 14. Probably everybody knows that 7 is in the middle. 0 to 7 is the acid side. 7 to 14 is the alkaline, alkaline side." [01:45]

He elucidates that while the body's internal environment, particularly the blood, maintains a slightly alkaline pH (~7.38) to facilitate nutrient absorption, the skin operates best in a slightly acidic environment. This dichotomy is crucial for different bodily functions.

Impact of pH on Skin Health

Fuchs highlights the dual nature of pH effects on the body versus the skin:

• Internal Body (Blood): "You want your blood to be alkaline... because you can suck nutrition in. So you want to have a vacuum." [03:15]

• Skin Surface: "The skin, on the other hand, you want it to have a pushing effect. Why would you want a pushing effect? It's a barrier. It's protective. It's like a force field." [04:05]

He explains that an acidic skin environment promotes a protective barrier and supports the skin's microbiome, while an alkaline environment can weaken this barrier, making the skin susceptible to irritation and infection.

The Role of Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

A significant portion of the discussion revolves around the benefits of AHAs in skincare:

• Stimulation and Growth: "Acids are stimulating. In fact, acids are produced by cells when cells are stressed out." [06:10]

Fuchs compares the application of AHAs to a workout for the skin, inducing mild stress that prompts the skin to repair and regenerate. This process leads to increased collagen production, reduced fine lines, and a thicker epidermis.

• Exfoliation and Beyond: "When you exfoliate with acid, not only de-exfoliate, but you also put that jolt of energy into the skin." [07:20]

He emphasizes that AHAs not only remove dead skin cells but also invigorate the skin's cellular processes, offering comprehensive anti-aging benefits.

Internal vs. Topical Factors in Maintaining Skin pH

Fuchs underscores the importance of internal nutrition in maintaining the skin's acid mantle:

• Dietary Fats and Nutrients: "Making sure you're getting enough of these fatty materials in the diet is one of the most important things you could do to maintain the acid mantle." [08:30]

He advises estheticians to educate clients on the significance of consuming essential fatty acids and protective nutrients like vitamins E and C, selenium, and zinc. These nutrients support the skin's barrier function and overall health from within.

• Avoiding Alkaline Products: "Most topical products that we put on our skin are alkaline... So skincare companies don't want their products moving because that will encourage their breakdown." [09:10]

Fuchs points out the prevalence of alkaline products in the market, such as soaps and cleansers with high pH levels (e.g., Ivory soap at pH 10), which can disrupt the skin's natural acidity and compromise its barrier.

The Importance of the Skin's Microbiome

In the final segments, Fuchs touches upon the relationship between the skin's pH and its microbiome:

• Microbiome Balance: "The correct bacterial profile in the skin depends on a low pH or a pH around 5, 4.55, 5.5-ish." [09:50]

Maintaining an acidic environment is crucial for fostering a healthy microbiome, which in turn protects against harmful pathogens and supports skin resilience.

Conclusion

Episode 338 of ASCP Esty Talk offers a comprehensive exploration of the acid mantle's role in skincare. Benjamin Knight Fuchs provides valuable insights into the chemistry of skin pH, the benefits of AHAs, and the importance of both internal nutrition and cautious product selection in maintaining optimal skin health. Estheticians are encouraged to adopt a holistic approach, balancing internal and external factors to enhance their clients' skin health effectively.

For more information or to connect with Benjamin Knight Fuchs, visit truthtreatmentspro.com.

Notable Quotes:

• "Chemistry only works because of electricity." – Benjamin Knight Fuchs [02:10]

• "Acid communicates a message to the body. Hey, we got to get stronger here because we got a lot of stress." – Benjamin Knight Fuchs [05:45]

• "Putting acid on the skin is like taking it to the gym." – Benjamin Knight Fuchs [07:50]

This episode serves as an enlightening resource for estheticians aiming to deepen their understanding of skin biology and optimize their skincare protocols for healthier, more resilient skin.