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ASCP Esty Talk
Ep 346 – 3 Pillars to Achieve Skin Results
00:22:02
Are we treating skin—or just selling solutions? This episode of ASCP Esty Talk challenges the symptom-based, brand-driven approach dominating esthetics today by introducing a deeper, more intentional framework: functional aesthetics, clinical...
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- [00:00]
A
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- [01:26]
B
Hello and welcome to ASCP Essie Talk. I'm Ella Cressman, licensed esthetician, science geek and content contributor for Associated Skincare Professionals.
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C
I'm Maggie Stasik, licensed esthetician and ASCP's program director.
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B
Maggie, today I want to do something fun. Today I want to peel back the layers beyond just like serums and protocols and talk about like real reasoning in skincare.
- [01:51]
C
I love that. Sounds awesome.
- [01:53]
B
You know how you and I, this all came about thinking about how we learn in our industry or what we learn in our industry and I feel like oftentimes the information that we accept is based on symptomatic assumptions. And this is parallel to the medical industry as far as like treating symptoms. You know we have western medicine, eastern medicine and in western medicine we go to the doctor and we have a cough and we're gonna get cough medicine or a prescription for cough medicine. This was standard for a long time. But what if that cough wasn't just a simple cough? What if that cough was caused by allergies or post nasal drip? Then you would be prescriptively on this cough medicine but not addressing the real problem. Right?
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C
Yep. So rather than treating the symptoms, we wanna get to the root of the problem.
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B
Yes. And I feel like the reason we're having this conversation is that the aesthetic industry often mirrors the western medicine practice of this symptom chasing and that can lead to often missing the bigger picture a hundred percent. So years ago there was this movement in western medicine for something called functional medicine. You've seen it? Have you ever seen a functional medicine doctor?
- [03:19]
C
Yeah, yeah. I used to work for one Isn't that something? Yes, and they are phenomenal.
- [03:24]
B
So tell us about functional medicine.
- [03:26]
C
Well, functional medicine, like we see now starting to happen in skincare, is looking at the body holistically. So examining not just that cough symptom, but what is happening throughout the whole body that is maybe contributing to that cough and treating whole body health, not just the symptom.
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B
Right, I love that. So it's more personalized, more patient centered, and that focuses on identifying the root causes rather than just managing symptoms. Is functional medicine. Am I saying it right?
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C
Yeah, a hundred percent.
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B
This kind of emphasizes a holistic view of health and holistic, like you said, the whole body. And it considers many things like the complex interactions between genes, environment, lifestyle, social factors. And by understanding these, functional medicine aims to restore and optimize health. Right. So think of it like temporary versus long term results. Functional aesthetics requires clinical reasoning, which leads to holistic approaches. What do you think about that?
- [04:36]
C
I think that approaching aesthetics holistically is the best way an esthetician can be treating the skin. And I say that with some caveats because I know that we are bound by our rules and regulations and we aren't diagnosing, we aren't quote unquote, treating, you know, disease and disorder, but we can still look at our client and take into account all the things that you just mentioned. So this person has rosacea, this person has acne. We aren't just applying a cream topically to treat the symptom of that condition. But we can have discussions with our client and educate them and talk about what is your diet, what is your lifestyle, what are the things that are contributing to the conditions you have that maybe are exacerbating them? How can we calm the skin down or, you know, all these things and be a better guide, if you will, for that client to better skin health?
- [05:34]
B
I think that is perfect. That's definitely the way I'm leaning now. I'm 20 years in. When I was a fresh EST, I didn't think that way. I thought, this is what I learned. I have to follow this. This is the protocol we do. And I didn't really take advantage of dysfunctional approach much. I'm hoping that even having this conversation with you today, that somebody hears it and says, oh, I need to open up and understand a little bit more. And I feel like hopefully that evolution changes too. So if we're looking at functional aesthetics, this is the art and science of understanding the skin as a reflection also of the internal. I think something else that estheticians do Especially as a very enthusiastic, just past fresh est, like the I know everything part that I went through anyways, I was fresh. I didn't know anything. And then I was like, oh, yeah, no, I know everything. And then, well, wait, I don't know. I feel like that's a cycle for a lot of estheticians in their career. But for those, there's a part where we feel like we can. I can fix it. Like the magic wand. Estee, if you will, like, I can do it. I can do it. I can do it. And is it these things? I took this class on acne and nutrition. I can help with this. So what would you say to your point of having these conversations, which I think are key in under wanting to understand for those who want those extra certifications or maybe pass on more than just an opinion for the whole approach?
- [07:09]
C
That's a really good question. And I think nutrition is something that estheticians should be knowledgeable about if they want to expand their horizons, get advanced certifications. It's a really fine line to cross. You want to be careful that you're not advising your client on diet and nutrition outside your scope, but partner with the dietitians and the nutritionists and I mean, you gotta walk a fine line.
- [07:39]
B
I think that's also the same when we look at nutrition. Right. Lifestyle, same thing, but emotional state also. We can be aware that there may be something going on with their nutrition. We can be aware that there may be something going on in their life, in their emotional state and knowing when and how to say. Have you considered this, like, leading questions maybe? Yeah, you're considering them as a functional approaching esthetician, but maybe not directing it.
- [08:11]
C
Yeah, you're guiding your client down a path, making suggestion. And again, not diagnosing, not offering concrete advice that is beyond your scope of practice. But again, I repeat myself in saying that it 100% benefits you as an esthetician to have that knowledge or even obtain those certifications if you have the certification. A hundred percent. Tell them, let's talk nutrition. Let's talk about your diet. What are you eating? Here are some supplements.
- [08:39]
B
Yeah, I think so too. And if you don't have those, maybe think, you know, partnering with something to your point also. Great idea. So when we think about functional aesthetics, too, we're thinking about not just breakouts caused by, you know, too much oil production, but by stress, by grief, by hormonal shifts, not just acne, but re. Acne, let's say, or dullness that's tied to lymphatic. Stagnation, emotional depletion or burnout? Guilty. That we just need to be aware of. And then think about this. Are we customizing care? How are we adjusting what we have been conditioned to want to give? Or are we customizing product lines? What's going on there? Don't be afraid to think about each step. You've learned these foundational principles of how a facial should go or how a treatment should go. There's certain marks in there. And you can customize it.
- [09:35]
C
Yeah, I think both customizing care and customizing the product line, one, it depends on where you're working. You know, you may be stuck in a position where you have to follow a very specific protocol and you only have one or two lines that you're able to use. So in that situation, it, it is what it is. But it doesn't mean you can't still have the conversation with your client about all the other things, lifestyle and stress and da da, da, da da.
- [10:04]
B
So next, let's talk about clinical reasoning. So clinical reasoning kind of is what we were just talking about in the protocol. So working beyond the protocol, you said right there, like some places want you to. This is the acne facial. This is the anti aging facial. You start with this cleanser, you do this serum. Yeah. And I could see that being a problem. But let's define first clinical reasoning. So clinical reasoning is an intentional process of evaluating what's really going on and then choosing the best course of action. I think of this when I see somebody book an appointment with me on Saturday. I had an appointment that was a microneedling, brand new client. I'm like, yeah, we'll see. This might not be the best course of action for you. So I had to instill that clinical reasoning part. Why do you want this? Are you a candidate for it? So we went through that whole process with them. Then I developed what this particular client needed in the treatment room. She actually needed a brightening protocol because that was her concern. And so she had some allergies and she had some lifestyle considerations. Her son is in soccer, for example. She's like, I've, I've gotta be going to this. Great. So we adjusted. This can be completely in contrast with branded protocols, but you can do it. The problem with branded protocols necessarily is that it's same product, same protocol, but it's a different face, it's a different person. So this is where I don't like brand protocols. Yeah, but they're a jump start. So think of them as a jump start. Some tools to Support clinical reasoning are client conversation. So asking better questions during consultation. Maggie, when do we have a consultation?
- [11:50]
C
At every appointment.
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B
That's right. Also, looking for emotional cues. And then skin mapping. Did you learn. You learned Chinese face mapping? Oh, yeah, yeah. Do you still use it?
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C
Sort of. You know what I find? I can't look at a face, actually without thinking about face mapping. So if somebody has a breakout or a redness in a certain part of their face, automatically I'm thinking, what's going on with this particular organ?
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B
Yeah.
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C
You know, but when I was practicing as an esthetician, it wasn't like I honed in on face mapping and had this discussion with my client. It just was something that always simmered in the back of my mind and.
- [12:30]
B
It helped you ask the question.
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C
I always thought about it. What I'm saying is, now, walking down the street, let's say if I notice a breakout on someone, for instance, my mind automatically goes to face mapping.
- [12:42]
B
Nice.
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C
It's just been ingrained in my mind as a practicing esthetician. Yeah. You know, I might say, oh, something on the jawline, that's hormonal. You know, middle of the forehead, that means liver.
- [12:57]
B
Yeah.
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C
But I would never say to my client, something's going on with your liver. That would be beyond my scope. You know, that's not a conversation I would have. And also, granted, for the people that are listening, this was like 15 years.
- [13:12]
B
Ago, back in my day.
- [13:14]
C
Yeah, back in my day, 15, 20 years ago, that kind of conversation was not acceptable in the treatment room.
- [13:21]
B
Yeah.
- [13:21]
C
Today is different.
- [13:23]
B
I had that conversation yesterday with them and she came in, by the way, her results are fantastic. But I was telling her about different areas and kind of a little bit about Chinese face mapping. Super. Not normally open to this type of stuff. And so I said, yeah, so, you know, right in between the eyebrows is liver and liver is the angry gorgon. She's like, oh, that makes sense. That's why I have elevens. So she applied it the way she applied it, and I'm like, yeah, it could be interesting. So important, thinking of those tools that you use, calling on your information, all the information you have, whether it's as you're having your consultation, the training that you've received in Chinese face mapping, in understanding, maybe you're taking an emotions class, maybe you've been qualified to have some of these nutritional or supplement conversations, keeping those all in the back of your head as you're talking to them. And one key part of this clinical reasoning is slowing down, down in the consultation, take your time. This is the most important part to really get to know them. This is especially important in initial consultation, but also for the ongoing little consultations that you have. You'll keep your ears open and hear stuff and understand what could be going on. You said jawline congestion, for example. This way if you're using clinical reasoning, you'll be able to understand if it's hormonal, if it's inflammatory, maybe from gluten or. Or if it's emotion from anger and stress. They're all different approaches. Right, let's talk about the third, what I would say, pillar for success. So we are talking about functional aesthetics. Seeing someone as a whole person is number one. Clinical reasoning. Looking beyond just a protocol that's handed to you is number two. And number three would be this holistic approach of what happens in between visits or in between appointments we have. The holistic care has to be considered outside of the one hour, one and a half hour that they have with you. Right? Yeah. It's really about treating skin and spirit, studio and lifestyle. So there is power in this homework for the client that's not necessarily skin related but has a direct effect on the skin. So an example would be encouraging breathwork, encouraging journaling, encouraging movement of some sort, getting out, walking or yoga or whatever that could be, but encouraging that is going to be important. Also having a conversation about sleep hygiene, having a conversation about nutrition and then having a conversation about lymphatic support. This is a conversation I had with a client too who sits all day and she was complaining about her legs swelling. And also you could see it in her face like dark circles, just retaining a lot. Nothing was moving. Her pumps weren't pumping, if you will. This is none of my business and I'm not giving medical advice. I just said, oh, you know what I saw that was really cool was those meta, like those vibrating plates, you know? Yeah. I just said it casually, she got one, I didn't, you know, I said, I've seen those. I wonder if those work. Thinking of her as a whole person, not telling her to get it, just thinking of her as a whole person. She got worked. So win. Yeah. Also energy rituals that can empower long term change, whether it's setting intention in the morning or at night. That's the moon goddess in me. But I have to put that in there. Then of course, reframing retail, think of products as tools, not just solutions. So working those in to the home care part, like a mask. Put your mask on and then do some Stretches or put your mask on and journal, you know, that kind of thing. But think about it like, what if the missing link isn't a serum but like a shift maybe in the mindset.
- [17:27]
C
I think that that's really important. And the shift is how I'm reading this. The shift is in the esthetician, right? And how they are thinking about how they are approaching their client. So it's, it is the whole treatment, starting with the consultation. And like you're talking about, let's address breath work, let's address sleep hygiene, who's doing that? You know, let's talk about your energy rituals. Energy rituals for the client at home, but energy rituals for the esthetician within the treatment space and as well. And then what you said here about retail, a hundred percent spot on. It is a tool. And so many estheticians get worked up about the idea of selling it's a tool for the client to go home and carry on what you just did in the treatment space. Everybody knows it, everybody's heard that, but we still get so worked up about having to sell it. It's just a tool.
- [18:27]
B
Also putting the same power into a tool that you use in your back bar, it's just a tool. You are the machine, you are the one deciding those things. And that's kind of what gets me when I see it's like the importance is on the brand that you carry and the brand are responsible for the results that you get. But really you are the machine that gets to decide how to use that tool the most effective way possible. That's what I want people to start thinking of, is not just going step one, step two, step three, step four, and putting a product in there. But step one, do they need this? Why do they need this? What do they need? Because then if you have this power, if you have this, if you adapt this way of thinking, you'll be able to use any brand, anywhere, anytime. So that makes you more marketable if you choose to work for someone. But it also makes you very effective in the treatment room because you're able to deliver longer lasting results for your clients. Not to say that it's not important what brand you choose because those are tools. You want to have the best tools possible. I like a multifunction tool, but you know what I mean. So this isn't new either. We talked about it in the medical field as it's changing and I've been to so many doctor's appointments this year and they're all asking about my sleep, even my dentist. Why I don't know. Weird. I guess it's a. I think it's a trend in their language, but it's important. I guess there's a. A new awareness of how important that is. Not just, are you sleeping eight hours, but what's that quality like? And it could be this influence of technology, devices that are able to better track it. I don't know. Maybe CPAP machines are paying for all this stuff. I don't need one, by the way. Not that I'm judging, but we also see this. Remember that podcast we did on the med spa model when we talked about the little pink pillow? Yes. Yeah, they're. The med spa model is also taking a holistic approach. So we gotta think about that, too, as estheticians. Right? Yeah, yeah, yeah. So not just in things we offer, but being aware of things like if they're on that pill, if they're taking GLP1s, how you know, all these other influence opportunities here. And then it will show how deeply connected physiology, emotions, and appearance really are. So here's the bigger message, Maggie. I think we need to slow down and really see our clients. Really see them, not just putting them into one of these boxes that we're conditioned to think, oh, you have hyperpigmentation. Oh, you have acne. Oh, you're aging. Oh, you're sensitive. See them as a person, not as a box. And your role as an esthetician is more than correcting a problem. It's about reflecting what could be going on. Rethink what you ask, how you assess, and how you recommend, because clients don't always need more. They need meaning. Now, listeners, we really want to hear from you. What is one question you can ask differently this week? Reach out via Instagram, Facebook, or send us an email@getconnectedpskincare.com we want to know all the details. In the meantime, thank you for listening to ASCP STTalk. For more information on this episode, or for ways to connect with Maggie or myself, or to learn more about ascp, check out the show notes and stay tuned for the next episode of ASCP STTalk.