ASCP Esty Talk: Ep 351 – Sunscreen Safety (October 1, 2025)
Episode Overview
In this episode of ASCP Esty Talk, hosts Maggie Stasik (ASCP’s Program Director) and Ella Cressman (licensed esthetician and ASCP content contributor) address the hot-button issue of sunscreen safety. The discussion centers on two major controversies: "sunscreen doping," where some brands allegedly boost SPF in “mineral-only” sunscreens with unapproved chemical filters, and the growing popularity—and regulatory scrutiny—of foam (mousse) sunscreen formats. With a lively and candid tone, the hosts break down current industry debates, share personal opinions, offer dosing advice, and highlight recent FDA actions impacting sunscreen products.
Key Discussion Points
1. Why Sunscreen Safety is in the Spotlight (01:37)
- Main Concern: Sunscreen is recommended daily for all skin types, but if products underperform or mislead, it undermines trust and client safety.
- New Controversies: Issues like inaccurate SPF values and product formulation claims prompt ongoing debate and regulatory attention.
2. What is Sunscreen Doping? (02:51)
- Definition: The intentional addition of unapproved chemical UV filters to boost SPF in sunscreens labeled "mineral-only."
- Why It’s Done: Increases SPF without raising zinc or titanium dioxide levels—making formulas more transparent and appealing, avoiding the “chalky” look.
- Deceptive Labeling: These chemicals may only appear in the “inactive” section of the ingredient list, falsely assuring consumers the product is mineral-only.
“It’s like saying alcohol free except for the 5% alcohol in this.”
—Ella Cressman [03:19]
- Safety Issue: These added ingredients haven’t undergone full FDA testing for UV safety and efficacy.
- Consumer Impact: Users may be exposed to unwanted chemicals, particularly problematic for those with sensitivities or for ethical/environmental reasons.
“You’re thinking you’re wearing a mineral SPF, but you’re not… It’s consumer deception.”
—Ella Cressman [05:54]
Memorable Moment: Ethical Frustration (06:48–07:31)
- Maggie: Personally feels deceived, but admits she might still use a product she loves, if fully informed (“I would probably still continue to use that product because I like it. …But I don't like knowing that I've been deceived.”).
3. Foam Sunscreen: Fun Format or Flawed Protection? (07:31)
- Market Trend: Foam/mousse sunscreens are trendy—easy to apply, airy, and appealing packaging (even mimicking whipped cream).
- Coverage Concerns: FDA testing indicates foams may not reliably deliver consistent SPF coverage, due to the challenge in measuring and applying the correct amount.
“They look fun… But testing shows they may not be delivering consistent, adequate coverage.”
—Maggie Stasik [08:03]
Regulatory Crackdown (08:17–09:18)
- FDA Action: On August 6, 2025, warning letters were issued to brands (e.g., Supergoop, Vacation Inc.) and other lesser-known companies regarding illegal marketing of foam sunscreens, which lack FDA approval as a recognized dosage form (only lotions, creams, gels, sprays, and sticks are approved).
- Child Safety Issue: Whipped-cream-style packaging may lead to accidental ingestion by children, mistaking sunscreen for food.
- Actual Risk?: No definitive evidence foams are unsafe or ineffective—concerns center more on application errors and regulatory technicalities than outright harm.
“Can we say that again? There’s no definitive evidence. They’re just mad that it came, that they didn’t think of it.”
—Ella Cressman [10:00]
4. How Much Sunscreen is Enough? Dosing Dilemmas (10:26)
- Standard Recommendation: FDA measures SPF with 2 mg per square centimeter—a full body’s worth is roughly “one ounce, or a shot glass.”
- Other Methods: The “two-finger rule” (cream spread along index and middle fingers) for face/neck/ears.
- Real-World Practice: Hosts openly admit no one, including themselves, uses as much as recommended; variable body sizes and formats make universal guidance tricky.
“I don’t know anybody who puts two fingers of SPF on. I know that’s what we’re taught, but I don’t do it… and I don’t get a sunburn.”
—Ella Cressman [10:33]
- Foam Complexity: Airy texture makes dosing by weight difficult—further complicating consistent protection.
5. The Difference Between Chemical and Mineral Sunscreen (13:44)
- Chemical Sunscreens break down in sunlight after about 2 hours—hence the reapplication rule.
- Mineral Sunscreens (zinc, titanium dioxide) remain stable and do not degrade in the sun.
- Foam Sunscreens: Likely chemical-based, though specifics are often not reviewed by consumers, even skincare professionals.
Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments
-
“[Sunscreen doping] is like saying alcohol free except for the 5% alcohol in this.”
Ella Cressman [03:19] -
“You’re thinking you’re wearing a mineral SPF, but you’re not… It’s consumer deception.”
Ella Cressman [05:54] -
"I would probably still continue to use that product because I like it. …But I don't like knowing that I've been deceived."
Maggie Stasik [07:23] -
“Can we say that again? There’s no definitive evidence. They’re just mad that it came, that they didn’t think of it.”
Ella Cressman [10:00] -
“I don’t know anybody who puts two fingers of SPF on… and I don’t get a sunburn.”
Ella Cressman [10:33]
Timestamps for Key Segments
- 01:37 – Why daily sunscreen is recommended and the importance of product efficacy
- 02:51 – Explanation and discussion of "sunscreen doping"
- 06:48 – Host reactions to being deceived by hidden chemicals in mineral sunscreens
- 07:31 – Introduction of foam sunscreens and discussion of their appeal
- 08:17–09:18 – Recent FDA warnings and regulatory issues with foam/mousse sunscreen formats
- 10:26 – How much sunscreen is enough: dosing guidance and practical realities
- 13:44 – Difference in breakdown between chemical vs. mineral sunscreen and implications for usage
Conclusion
This episode provides a thorough look at the latest sunscreen controversies, highlighting serious concerns over ingredient transparency, regulatory approval, and real-world usage practices. The hosts invite estheticians and clients alike to stay informed and pay close attention to ingredient labels—and not to be swayed by marketing fads or misleading claims. Their frank, humorous banter and personal admissions add authenticity, making the episode as informative as it is relatable.
For further information or to join the discussion, listeners are encouraged to connect via ASCP’s social platforms or email.