Podcast Summary: ASCP Esty Talk – The Rogue Pharmacist: Melanogenesis

Episode: 353
Date: October 10, 2025
Hosts: Maggie Stasik (ASCP Program Director) & Ben Fuchs (Skincare Formulator & Pharmacist)

Episode Overview

This episode dives deep into melanogenesis—the complex biological process of skin pigmentation. Host Maggie Stasik and guest Ben Fuchs, a pharmacist and formulator, explore why hyperpigmentation (like melasma) is so prevalent and stubborn to treat. They unravel the internal and external factors, especially the role of the body’s stress response and hormones, and discuss practical strategies for skincare professionals and clients.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Melanogenesis and Why It's So Hard to Treat

• Hyperpigmentation emerges as a top complaint, especially among aging women.

• Ben Fuchs emphasizes the complication of treatment: “It’s kind of interesting how a lot of the treatments for hyperpigmentation can actually cause more hyperpigmentation.” (01:00)

  • Procedures like peels and lasers, while common, can provoke more pigmentation in susceptible individuals.

• Root Cause: Stress Response

  • Melanogenesis is deeply tied to the body’s general stress response, aimed at survival (e.g., protecting skin from UV damage).
  • "You can't really override a survival threat because you don't think it looks good." (02:13)

2. Hormonal Control and Hyperpigmentation

• Three Key Hormones:
  • Insulin
  • Estrogen
  • Cortisol
  • “The major control point for hyperpigmentation is going to be the hormone system.” (03:33)
• These hormones, through the body's response to stress or metabolic imbalance, drive melanin production.

A. Insulin and Blood Sugar

• High insulin, driven by blood sugar spikes, can increase pigmentation.
• Actionable Tips:
  • Control blood sugar with diet.
  • Use supplements that aid sugar metabolism (B1, B3, magnesium, zinc, alpha-lipoic acid, sulfur, selenium).
    • "Magnesium and zinc deficiencies can be associated with hyperpigmentation and excess melanogenesis." (04:35)

B. Estrogen Dominance

• Excess or poorly cleared estrogen (from the body or environment) correlates with hyperpigmentation.
  • E.g., "mask of pregnancy" during high-estrogen states.
  • "Women on HRT are more susceptible to hyperpigmentation issues." (06:19)
• Clearing excess estrogen via liver, gut, and gallbladder health is vital.
  • Strategies:
    • Increase fiber and probiotics for intestinal health.
    • Support bile production with lecithin, glycine, taurine.
    • Use supplements like DIM, i3C, choline, betaine for methylation (helpful in estrogen clearance).
    • Consume cruciferous vegetables: “Cruciferous vegetables are a woman’s best friend, especially older women, because they’re so important for liver health and hormonal health.” (09:05)

C. Progesterone and Hormone Balance

• Progesterone deficiency common in aging women can lead to estrogen dominance and associated hyperpigmentation.
• Topical progesterone (creams/serums) and pregnenolone can aid hormonal balance.

D. Cortisol and Psychological Stress

• Cortisol is both triggered by, and drives, the stress response.
• Controlling blood sugar, nutrient supplementation (Vit A, E), pregnenolone, and stress management (deep breathing, relaxation) can help rebalance cortisol and skin pigmentation.
  • “Oxygenation or deep breathing… is a great way to lower cortisol.” (12:01)

3. Topical Treatments: Limitations and Options

• Topicals are of limited effect because they can’t overwrite the body’s deep stress-driven priorities.
• Most Effective Topicals (but with caveats):
  • Retinol: Effective; also delivers anti-aging benefits.
  • Hydroquinone: Effective but considered toxic by Ben; used reluctantly.
• Less Effective/Questionable Efficacy:
  • Alpha hydroxy acids offer minor benefit.
  • “Tyrosinase inhibitors” (like kojic acid, herbal extracts) rarely work as claimed.
    • “In all the years I’ve been doing skin care… I’ve yet to see anybody use herbal tyrosinase inhibitor… and have their skin lightening improved.” (12:27)
  • Transamic acid not particularly effective according to Ben.
• Risks of Peels/Lasers: Can worsen hyperpigmentation by destabilizing already sensitive skin.

4. Systemic & Lifestyle Strategies

• Diet: Stabilize blood sugar, emphasize nutrient-dense foods, avoid sugar/excess calories.
• Supplements: B vitamins, magnesium, zinc, alpha-lipoic acid, sulfur, selenium, liver-supporting agents (DIM, choline).
• Lifestyle: Stress reduction techniques (deep breathing, relaxation), regular bowel habits, support liver/gut health, consider hormone testing.
• Mitochondrial Health: Defective mitochondria cause cellular stress, amplifying pigmentation. Vitamin C and ionic (electrical) minerals are highlighted for mitochondrial support.

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On the futility of fighting evolutionary biology:

  "You can't really override a survival threat because you don't think it looks good."
  — Ben Fuchs, (02:13)

• On estrogen and pigmentation:

  "Functionally toxic estrogen… So clearing out estrogen becomes a very important strategy for reducing melanogenesis for the melasma patient."
  — Ben Fuchs, (06:55)

• On the supplement DIM’s history:

  "DIM was created by a guy in Boulder. I was actually one of the first pharmacies to work with DIM back when he developed it."
  — Ben Fuchs, (08:38)

• On so-called natural lighteners:

  "I’ve yet to see anybody use herbal tyrosinase inhibitor or a phytochemical that has tyrosinase inhibition properties and have their skin lightening improved."
  — Ben Fuchs, (12:27)

• On the complexity of internal healing:

  "Let’s say they determine the cause internally... treat it, heal it... they’ll see that go away 100%."
  — Maggie Stasik, (13:24)
  "But that’s easier said than done."
  — Ben Fuchs, (13:35)

Timestamps for Key Segments

• 00:32–02:13: Why hyperpigmentation is hard to treat—stress response and survival
• 03:33–06:40: Role of insulin, estrogen, cortisol; how hormones control pigmentation
• 06:19–09:20: Estrogen dominance and clearing estrogen
• 09:20–12:01: Strategies—progesterone, pregnenolone, cortisol management
• 12:01–13:09: Topical options, pitfalls, and the reality of skin lighteners
• 13:09–13:38: Internal vs. topical solutions
• 13:38–14:53: Final thoughts, importance of mitochondria and ionic minerals for skin health

Takeaway Summary

• Hyperpigmentation is a deeply rooted biological response connected to the body’s stress and hormone system—treating it requires much more than topical creams.
• Effective long-term management involves stabilizing blood sugar and hormones, supporting liver and intestinal health, and addressing both psychological and physiological stress.
• While topicals like retinol and (cautiously) hydroquinone can help, they don’t solve the underlying causes and must be used with care.
• Natural topical lighteners rarely deliver substantial results; internal balance is key.
• Mitochondrial health, supported by nutrients such as vitamin C and ionic minerals, is emerging as a critical area for overall skin and pigment health.

For more insights from Ben Fuchs, visit truthtreatments.com, and check the show notes for additional resources and connections.