ASCP Esty Talk – Episode 355: Hot Takes

Date: October 22, 2025
Hosts: Ella Cressman & Maggie Stasik
Podcast by: Associated Skin Care Professionals (ASCP)

Episode Overview

In this engaging episode of ASCP Esty Talk, hosts Ella Cressman and Maggie Stasik dig into some of the hottest, most forward-looking trends in aesthetics—from neurocosmetics and "double duty beauty" to the revolutionary impact of AI in skincare and fragrance. The conversation is fast-paced, anecdotal, and packed with practical insights and moments of reflection on where the beauty industry is headed and how estheticians can stay ahead of the curve.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Anecdote: Unusual Client Moments

[01:39 – 03:11]

• Ella shares a humorous, unforgettable story about a client bringing a bearded dragon to her dermaplane appointment, highlighting how the treatment room is never short on surprises.
  • Quote:
    "Client, though he's really cute, I think your bearded dragon might do better in his cage as opposed to laying on your chest because we're doing a dermaplane. This is a scalpel." – Ella [01:45]
• This segues into a discussion about trends, why they matter, and how staying current helps practitioners connect more deeply with clients.

2. Neurocosmetics – Skincare That Impacts Mood

[03:34 – 10:32]

What Are Neurocosmetics?

• Definition: Ingredients designed to not only improve the skin’s appearance and function, but also to influence mood and emotional well-being.
  • Quote:
    "Ingredients that don't just improve the look of the skin...but can also influence mood, stress, emotional well being." – Ella [04:05]

Trending Ingredients & Claims

• Zenokine by Croda:
  • Supposedly increases happiness (13.5%), improves sleep in two weeks, reduces visible fatigue.
    • Quote:
      "Clinically proven to boost happiness 13.5%. Improve sleep in two weeks. Sign me up." – Ella [04:52]
• Neurophroline (from wild indigo):
  • Reduces skin cortisol, increases endorphins, marketed as an “anti-stress” molecule.
• Sensorial peptides (e.g., dipeptide-2, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7):
  • Reduce puffiness, improve microcirculation, soothe and calm sensitized skin.
• Happybelle-PE (from monk pepper):
  • Supposed to boost beta-endorphins for improved mood, glow, and radiance.

Skepticism and “Placebo” Questions

• Maggie questions the robustness of the science, sample sizes, and possible placebo effects behind neurocosmetic claims.
  • Quote:
    "I'm very curious ultimately how effective they are and if to some degree there's placebo." – Maggie [06:28]
  • "How many people did their stress go down 13.5%?" – Ella, teasing out the need for more proof [07:10]
• Ella shares a story about using a cream for body tightening that seemed to help her sleep, acknowledging possible placebo effects. [07:40]

Takeaways for Professionals

• Neurocosmetics represent a "whole person" shift in aesthetics; it's not just looking good, but feeling good.
  • Quote:
    "These actives, they can be framed as tools not just for better skin but also stress recovery, sleep support and client confidence." – Ella [09:38]
• Raises questions about potential "comedowns" or “skincare hangovers” if mood-boosting creams wear off. [10:03–10:27]

3. Double Duty Beauty – Products That Do More

[10:32 – 12:25]

Definition and Examples

• “Double Duty Beauty” refers to cosmetics that offer both aesthetic and corrective benefits (e.g., makeup with SPF, blue light protection, peptides, hyaluronic acid).
• The trend reflects a demand for simplified routines that deliver more impact with fewer steps.
  • Quote:
    "Consumers are busy. They want fewer steps with more impact. And this is bridging self care with wellness." – Maggie [11:02]
  • "Give me them all together. I need it simple. I need four steps. No more than four steps." – Ella [11:35]

Professional Angle

• Offers new retail opportunities: recommending multi-benefit products that complement professional treatments.
• May tie into ongoing trends like “skinimalism,” where less is more. [12:05–12:12]

4. Artificial Intelligence (AI) in Beauty & Personal Care

[12:25 – 18:40]

AI in Fragrance Development

• Ella recounts the rise of AI-driven fragrance innovation, such as lab-grown equivalents of ultra-rare perfume ingredients (e.g., orris root).
  • Quote:
    "These AI devices or technology, it helps design molecules that match the olfactive fingerprint of these rare scents. So the dupe game just got even stronger." – Ella [14:18]
• Discussion about how lab-created scents affect the supply chain, ingredient consistency, and even legal/ethical questions about “dupes” and hormone disruption fears.

Personalized Skincare Formulations

• AI facial imaging can create truly personalized skincare by analyzing features and drawing from half a million potential ingredient combinations (e.g., Alma’s Universe Skin).
  • Quote:
    "It’s doing that. It’s clinical and cosmetic. So it extends from clinic to at-home routines and it aligns with trend data. 62% of beauty buyers want personalization." – Maggie [15:52]
• Discussion around AI as a tool for professionals, not a replacement—practitioners can use it to validate or discuss tailored regimens with clients.

Reflection on AI’s Pervasiveness

• Both hosts note AI is now so normalized and integrated into daily life, from music and shopping to medical symptom checking.
  • Quote:
    "Even the artificial intelligence of telling my car to play what song. Right. Yeah, it's everywhere." – Ella [17:32]
• Maggie raises the prospect of estheticians and medical professionals feeling threatened by AI “diagnoses,” but sees opportunity for collaboration and transparency.
  • Quote:
    "They don't want their client to be coming in the door saying well, ChatGPT told me this...but if we are using it to our advantage and encouraging our client—what is ChatGPT telling you? Let's talk about it." – Maggie [17:51]

Memorable Quotes

• "Trends aren't just hype. They show us what clients are craving and where the industry is heading." – Ella [03:13]
• "I hope it's not a trend to bring emotional support lizards to the treatment room." – Ella [03:11]
• "This is anti-aging. Looking good, feeling good, better sleep, reducing our stress, all of those things that are contributing to aging. Let's target them." – Maggie [05:14]
• "Even though...I've got a plethora of products on my shelf, I prefer to keep it simple for the application part of it. I got options, but I want it to be super easy." – Ella [11:57]

Key Timestamps

• [01:39–03:11]: Client brings a bearded dragon to a treatment; segue into trends.
• [03:34–10:32]: Neurocosmetics—what they are, major ingredients, industry implications.
• [10:32–12:25]: Double Duty Beauty: multi-tasking products, consumer habits, retail pointers.
• [12:25–15:45]: AI fragrance innovation, legal and wellness implications.
• [15:52–18:40]: AI-driven skincare personalization, professional response, normalization of AI.

Wrap-Up

• The episode concludes with a call to listeners for feedback and stories about neurocosmetics, double duty beauty, and artificial intelligence in aesthetics.
• Contact information is shared for ongoing dialogue with the hosts.

Overall Tone:
Conversational, curious, humorous, and slightly skeptical—balancing excitement for innovation with a healthy demand for evidence. The co-hosts toggle between industry expertise, consumer perspectives, and real-life anecdotes, making the discussion relatable but thought-provoking for working estheticians.

For more information or to connect with the hosts, check the episode show notes or reach out through ASCP’s social channels.