B (3:18)

Oh, yeah, absolutely, yes.

C (3:20)

It's happened to me a couple times. That second brand I went with, I was behind them. I was. I'll just give it an example. I won't say who it was, but I bought into that philosophy. I was selling those products, I was touting, telling all my friends I was a super fan of this line. And I regurgitated what they told me, which was like, this is just the example that chemical SPFs were bad. Physical SPFs were the only way to go until one day they switched the formula on me. Have you seen that?

B (3:50)

Oh, yeah, yeah.

C (3:51)

And I'm like, what? I hear you. Like, just changing my philosophical compass here. And they had this whole other reason. Come to find out in formulation school. I'm just theorizing the reason that they switched it up like that is because it's very expensive to suspend a physical sunscreen in a formulation. It's very expensive to have it tested. So a lot of times they'll just put a chemical in because it's easier. The experience of the product is more pleasurable. That's really what happened. But then they sold me all this other marketing BS that was just playing on my emotions. What do you think about that?

B (4:31)

I. I hear you, Ella. I know exactly what you're talking about. I think this kind of thing happens in the skincare industry a lot. And especially when we're talking about estheticians, sales reps, people that are pushing a brand and having to push that brand philosophy. As soon as that story changes, then, well, the story changes and, and that brand philosophy and everything you've been taught and what's been ingrained has to shift.

C (5:03)

And this is also what you've told your clients, right? And you have to like, wait, what am I going to tell them now? Remember all those things I said before something changed? Well, this was the case for sure for somebody that I was watching on social media. She was very brave and she did this series, like a series of posts. I caught them when I was doom scrolling on Instagram and basically she was saying, this is my decision. Why I'm not going with X, Y, Z brand anymore. I'm not going to say the name of the brand. If you guys know who I'm talking about, then if you know, you know. But if you don't, just listen to the rest of the story. She was explaining that there was these subtle formulation changes that she didn't even notice her clients did. So she bought into this brand because it met her philosophy of clean beauty. So she has other brands, but this was her clean beauty brand. She brought in specifically and she started noticing slight changes. Clients were complaining that is this a little different? She's like, no, no. They would have told me because I've been a loyal person selling this brand for like a long time. And then finally somebody brought in and said, look at the back of these ingredients. This has a known hormone disruptor. This was supposed to be a clean brand. And this client was especially sensitive whether it was emotionally or physically to said ingredients. And so that's when she noticed something was off. So this is what happens when you're brand boozled oftentimes is there's this slow drift and how they can change, they being the brands without saying that they've changed. Because formulations rarely change all at once. Commonly it's called a quiet shift where ingredient substitutions are made for cost savings or lower percentages of hero ingredients are entered into the mix or they change. The preservation systems reformulations happen to meet mass or direct to consumer scalability. We're going to talk about direct to consumer in a little bit. But brands may technically disclose changes. Brands may technically disclose these changes, but not educationally. So at what point, Maggie, does transparency become technically compliant but ethically thin?

B (7:14)

Oh, that is like such a loaded question a lot. I feel like every time, every time, I mean, and with this story that you're sharing, um, again one that I can definitely relate to and I think that even when there's this quiet shift, it's the responsibility of the brand, in my opinion, to notify all of their brand loyal clients who are the account holders to say this shift has occurred because it impacts them and then impacts their clients.

C (7:48)

And I feel like as professionals we're an extension of their company because we're helping market their products, we're helping educate their products, we're helping sell their products. So that absolutely should be the case. But it doesn't happen all the time. I know there was a company I was working with who their formulations would change from batch to batch to batch. I didn't work with them for very long because I'm like this, you can't, you can't. But it wasn't even changing on the inky deck. That's unethical. That's being for sure brand boozled. If you're a loyalist to that. I don't think a lot of people are loyal to that brand. But it happens. And then sometimes there can be slight tweaks and sometimes those slight tweaks or those slight adjustments, especially if it's visually or scent wise, are because of natural materials on it. But how often have you been, oh, this is a little bit different. And really compared it to the previous formulation. Nobody does that.

B (8:46)

Yeah, no, I can't say that I have really gotten that specific.

C (8:50)

Yes, not good. Okay, let's talk about now. We kind of touched on it, but this is another big thing. She was saying that in her video she thought that these changes were made so that they could start selling direct to consumer. So it had been a professional only line, but now it's positioning for a direct to consumer. Let's be honest, DTC isn't the enemy, but it is a signal. Here's where nuance matters. DTC isn't inherently bad. It's not bad that the brand you choose also sells right to the consumer. But it does change pricing, power, professional exclusivity and the esthetician's role in their brand story. So long time ago there was this push, I think it was maybe four years ago, like there was even petition signed to like ban this company because they chose. They started out. Nope. We're always going to be professional, just professional only. But we're going then ended up shifting. And I think I remember too being early on when like Amazon sales or Internet sales were starting, when some professional companies were making that shift, being outraged. You can definitely see this. Oh, another one. They used us to build their brand and now they're going direct to consumer. I felt the same, especially with this new brand that I brought in. They sell direct to consumer and oftentimes it feels like they're competing with me because what they're offering on their Internet sales. So I get it. But if your client can buy the same product at the same price with influencer messaging without your clinical context, has your value shifted whether the brand admits it or not? I don't know. I think it could be, but it also could work in your favor.

B (10:35)

Yeah, I, I do see both sides here. And, and that's a tricky one. I think that in recent years there has been. The waters are muddy. You know, there's a lot of products that are direct to consumer that you could argue really should be a professional product. If you look at the ingredients and then vice versa, you, you know where these professional lines are now, both available direct to consumer and available to the esthetician. And I think that to your point, it does favor the esthetician and also it makes it challenging for the esthetician I think that as long as there are products available for the esthetician available only in the treatment room, it still elevates the esthetician. You know, I think it's fine in the. At the end of the day.

C (11:25)

One company I worked with previously did it right. They 100% did it right. They sold it for 10% more than the esthetician. So 10% more than the estheticIAN MSRP. And they also didn't sell all of their SKUs direct to consumer. So there were still things that had a higher percentage of acids or required more like discernment than just somebody picking it off of the Internet. So when those came up as a recommendation, they had like a spa finder or a professional finder on their website. It's like you can't get it here, but there's, here's a couple places in your area. Or go to the spa finder and put in your zip code and find a place. So it was like satiating the demand because it's 20, 26, it's going to happen. But it did it in a way that was not biting the people that did get them there. So I think there's a way to understand that better. Especially the fact that like direct to consumer is not a betrayal, it is a business pivot. So your job as the professional is to pivot with intention and not emotion. Now, I totally understand where this poster was coming from, but also, how can you make this then work for you? So with the current line that I have, it sucks. I'm not gonna lie. They're like running a sale. Had no idea. I'm having my clients text me and say they're having a sale right now. What should I get? I'm like, okay, so the way that they've amended it is they've provided like a, an affiliate link for me here. Click this link, use this, order this. I don't get the same complete markup, but I'm still doing it a little bit smarter. And then in clinic, I'm not carrying all of their SKUs. In fact, I'm not carrying their four top sellers. Because you're going to sell it to them. You sell that to them. I'm going to sell the specialty things and the specialty things that I think that they're gonna, I'm gonna pivot in a certain way that is like just for them, right? So, and I didn't start out that way. I brought in all the SKUs. Then I had a nice little sale on those ones that I'm like I'm not. I'm gonna just niche down a little bit. Hold that thought. We'll be right back.

A (13:30)

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C (15:06)

Okay, here we go. Let's get back to the podcast. With that being said, let's talk about when red flags come up. Red flags when your relationship needs re evaluation. I see this a lot too where people are buying into their education systems because of this certification status that they're given. Like you're a certified blink blink blink. But the blink, blink blink is they're certified in that brand's specific approach.

B (15:32)

Right?

C (15:33)

But not in the public eye or what they think their shoulders are. You know, their chest is puffed. They're like oh my gosh, I am a certified blink blink blank. But really you just know how to do that brand's blank blank. So red flags. Our education becomes more sales focused than science focused. Really important, especially if you're paying for it. Next one is brand reps can't clearly explain formulation changes that you might notice whether they are telling you up front or you're noticing. Messaging prioritizes viral virality over professional outcomes. Here's my favorite one, and this is one I definitely want to talk to you about is the brand grows but the professional support shrinks. We've seen this over and over, right?

B (16:18)

Yeah, absolutely. And it goes back to your comment about the brand Shifting and becoming more direct to consumer.

C (16:25)

I've seen that a lot or razzle dazzle was another thing I'll put on there. Like is it really about the esthetician support them. But here's the thing. When you have this brand change or this shift in status, everybody wants to be with Said Brandt. Right? Because everybody else is doing it and they're making it look so amazing and so cool. I want to be there. But stop, look, listen, think, stop, listen. Pay attention to what they're really giving you. Because if the brand evolves but your education doesn't, that's not growth, that's just a shift or a drift away. So be very, very aware of those things. So how can estheticians avoid being brand boozled moving forward? Here's a couple of practical safeguards that you can use. Read the Inkey list every time you reorder. Is this something you would do? No, I wouldn't either. So take advantage of AI Scan it. That's what I would do. I would scan it. I wouldn't read it because that's a lot and I'm very busy. Ask brands directly has this formula changed in the last 12 or 24 months? Who is this formulation optimized for? Now here's the other thing. Diversify your back bar both emotionally and financially. I don't think it's always. Now listen, I'm going to say this to have someone who's worked with brands for a long time and the brands will always say you have to use all of their products to ensure the outcomes that they are touting marketing to you. But diversifying your back bar is super important. Not saying to just one brand. What do you think about that?

B (18:01)

I, I think that this is part of the bigger idea that every 12 to 24 months you should be reevaluating your brand for your business. And who are you targeting? What is your philosophy? Does the product brand that you're using still meet that? And looking at your menu as well, that's part of it for sure.

C (18:25)

Or your. You said it right there. The philosophy. Does it equate also what else is out there? There was like four heavy hitters back in the day. Now there is so many more. I just brought in another line that is, it's interesting cuz it was a specialty line like that's how they're marketed. But the more I'm using it, the more I'm specializing in adjusting it for my, you know, my clinical, my clinical appointments. So it's very, it's cool and I Also feel as a practitioner, reimpassioned by using just a new line in my back bar. So in that passion then translates to my clients because they get excited. I'll try this new product. Stop building your identity on one brand. That's for your social media, that's for your services, that's for everything. What do you think about that?

B (19:16)

I think that's really important. I think that your brand as a business, the. That identity is not the product brand you're using.

C (19:25)

Absolutely. And with that, invest in the education that teaches you critical thinking and clinical reasoning, not just what to sell. I think that's a huge disservice. That is foundational at this point. Do you know what I'm talking about?

B (19:40)

I do, yeah.

C (19:41)

They're like, oh, this is how you're going. The. This was a comment that was made to me one time in a room with some professionals. They said, estheticians don't want to learn how to do it. They want a protocol. I was like, oh, my gosh, that is scathing. That's not how I operate. I want a protocol for sure. But I want to know why I'm doing these steps so that I know how to pivot and be able to customize for someone else. Because. And it's not the brand's fault. Like, the brands were just that specific brand. It's not a unique thought either. It's like, just do it this way. Follow this every single time. It's also how, like, some larger spas are built because they have to have predictability, and I understand those things, but you need to be able to pivot. What if somebody has an allergy to an ingredient in that one product? You need to understand the why. Why this is happening, what this process is about. So that really kind of. It hurt when I heard that. It's like, no, that is so horrible. But it's also foundational. This is how we learned in school. And then nobody really challenged that. Right.

B (20:44)

I agree with you. I think to your point, there are large spas that operate that way. And you said it. They need to be predictable. You come for that one facial. It's the same every time. And at the same time, there are probably estheticians who operate that way and that works for them. And maybe even, you know, those students coming out of school where initially that works for them as they're getting their bearings and they're learning aesthetics, but as you grow as an esthetician, and hopefully every esthetician is, they are building their knowledge and learning how to step Outside of that box to think with more clinical reasoning and if there is an allergy or they need to customize a treatment and also just for themselves, you don't want to have a cookie cutter treatment and every facial every day redundant.

C (21:38)

Yeah, I think that professional loyalty should be earned, not inherited forever too. So that you should be getting something back, not just like, oh, I am. Let's just call it ABC Skincare certified. I am an AB Skincare, ABC Skincare expert. I am an ABC skin care. I can't even say it. That's how much it doesn't align with me. Like I'm putting them. Here's the thing. When you're putting them on your social media, I use this product. You're doing free advertising for them too. So how do you turn industry shifts into business strength? The industry change creates confusion and confusion creates leadership opportunities. So here's what you can do. You can reposition yourself as formulation literate, really important so that you notice those changes. And it's not. It happens sometimes too on accident. So being aware and approaching with grace is key. Educate your clients on why you curate not just what you carry, because that also frees you up. If they love their product that they got from Ulta, you can keep it in their routine. Because you understand, because you're a formulation literate. Move from brand based facials to skin based strategies. That'll free you up. That also like sets you forward for the future. Your authority increases when you choose brands intentionally. When you explain your decisions clearly. When you're willing to let go publicly and professionally. Here's the bottom line. Clients trust practitioners who make informed decisions even when those decisions change. Would you agree or disagree?

B (23:15)

Yeah, I agree.

C (23:16)

And that's hard because I have been through several brand changes. I was, remember I was telling you was that. I'll just say this. They had a tropical facial. You'll know who I'm talking about. They had a tropical facial. So that was definitely on my menu. I live in Colorado. Was like, who needs a tropical facial? I had no idea why. I knew why I was giving the acne facial, but I couldn't understand why the acne facial wasn't working on my acne clients. Okay, but this is supposed to work because this is what they said. So when I went with the second brand, I was like, whoa. It opened up the door. It changed the way I learned until I stopped learning from them. Until I stopped and saw they were shifting. They ended up going direct to consumer and being in big on Walmart.com so stopped using them because all the things that they had promised was different. But now I totally have a completely different approach and my clients trust me through the changes because I'm explaining to them the how it's gonna work in their skin instead. Normalizing the breakup is another key thing. Outgrowing a brand doesn't mean you were wrong before. It just means that you learned that the industry might've shifted, that your standards evolved. This is what you were talking about, Maggie. And then being transparent with those clients to build trust, not doubt. What do you think?

B (24:35)

Yeah, I think you all those points are spot on. You said it.

C (24:38)

So being brand boozled isn't the failure step. Staying silent once you see clearly is. Now, listeners, we want to hear from you. What brand relationship have you outgrown and what did that teach you about your business? Reach out via Instagram, Facebook, or send us an email@getconnectedscpskincare.com we want to know all the details. In the meantime, thank you for listening to ASDPSDtalk. For more information on this episode, or for ways to connect with Maggie or myself, or to learn more about astp, check out the Show Notes. Stay tuned for the next episode of ASCP STTalk.