ASCP Esty Talk: Ep 377 – Drugstore Dupes

Date: February 25, 2026
Host: Ella Cressman (Licensed Esthetician), co-host Maggie Stasik (Licensed Esthetician, ASCP Program Director)

Overview

This episode of ASCP Esty Talk delves into the hot topic of “drugstore dupes” versus professional skincare products. With rising client interest in affordable alternatives, hosts Ella and Maggie explore whether drugstore "dupes" stand up to their professional counterparts. They analyze the science, practicality, cultural influences (especially social media), and the important role estheticians play in guiding clients to make informed choices.

Key Discussion Points and Insights

What Are “Dupes” in Skincare?

[02:25 – 04:46]

• Ella defines a dupe as “usually similar because they have a similar hero ingredient or they have a similar texture or feel or a similar marketing claim. And it's not necessarily the same delivery system, the same concentration, the same stability, or the same formulation philosophy.”
• Maggie is candid about her skepticism: “I don't believe there are dupes in skincare, is my honest opinion, because I think every brand, their formulation is going to be proprietary...the inkey list may have similarities.”

Memorable Quote

“Just because it has a similar inky doesn't mean that it has the same performance.” — Ella [04:22]

Professional vs. Drugstore Skincare: The Real Differences

[05:15 – 07:46]

• Professional skin care focuses on:
  • Bioavailability
  • Delivery systems
  • Synergistic ingredient blends
  • Optimized pH, preservation, and stability
  • Educator guidance
• Drugstore brands prioritize:
  • Shelf stability
  • Mass production for widespread availability
  • Cost efficiency
  • Broad tolerance (less likelihood of reactions, fewer actives)
• Example of cost pressures for getting into big retailers impacting formulation quality.

Memorable Quote

“Formulation really is where the real difference lives in professional skincare.” — Ella [05:15]

Notable Segment

[07:46 – 08:04]
Maggie asks if a true over-the-counter “dupe” for a specific professional product exists. Ella explains true 1:1 matches are rare: “Not the same as like that Baccarat rouge or perfume...not as like apples to apples comparison.”

Why Clients “See Results” with Drugstore Products

[08:06 – 10:22]

• Drugstore products can yield visible results, often short-term.
• But professional products offer predictability, safety, and long-term change “because not only do they have that one hero ingredient, but they have peptides...synergy.”
• Drugstore actives might plateau in efficacy or cause irritation.

Memorable Quote

“It's the difference between a short-term glow and a long-term change.” — Ella [09:43]

Educating Clients (Without Shaming)

[10:22 – 12:36]

• Handle client questions about dupes with empathy, not elitism.
• Encourage curiosity: How stable is this? What’s the delivery system? Who formulated it?
• The approach is to educate while preserving trust.

Notable Segment

Ella’s approach:

• Breaks down what the professional product does versus what a mix of drugstore substitutes would require (often more products, same price).
• Client realizes: “That's pretty much the same price...well I'm probably better off getting the one from you.” [12:31]

When Drugstore Products Do Have a Place

[12:36 – 15:47]

• Useful for:
  • Cleansers
  • Body care
  • Travel or transitional/budget routines
• But not for:
  • Managing clinical conditions (acne, hyperpigmentation, barrier dysfunction, post-procedure care)
• Ella discusses coaching her client through the shift from “TikTok trends” and drugstore products to informed, intuitive skincare.

Memorable Quote

“Professional skincare matters most when you want to have clinical authority on things like acne, hyperpigmentation, barrier dysfunction, aging...super important for a professional.” — Ella [13:54]

The Impact of Social Media and Influence Culture

[15:48 – 18:20]

• Social media and influencers push dupes for accessibility and virality, not always education or effectiveness.
• Many influencers (and even some dermatologist influencers) promote “one size fits all” advice, which can be misleading.

Memorable Quote

“When we're talking about content creation and clinical care, [the] difference is clear.” — Ella [16:45]

Notable Moment

Ella rants about a dermatologist influencer recommending benzoyl peroxide for closed comedones in a 30-second video:

“I'm a benzo fan, yeah...but not for closed comedones. There was nothing inflammatory about what this picture that she showed up.” — Maggie and Ella [17:44 – 17:51]

What Do Dupes Mean for Estheticians?

[18:26 – 19:02]

• The challenge of dupes pushes estheticians to:
  • Deepen ingredient and formulation knowledge
  • Improve consultations and client education
  • Enhance credibility as clinical authorities
• The “dupe” trend is an opportunity for growth and leadership in skincare.

Notable Quotes

• Ella [04:22]: “Just because it has a similar inky doesn't mean that it has the same performance.”
• Ella [05:15]: “Formulation really is where the real difference lives in professional skincare.”
• Maggie [11:41]: “Professional products are intended to be more concentrated...it should last you longer.”
• Ella [09:43]: “It's the difference between a short-term glow and a long-term change.”
• Ella [13:54]: “Professional skincare matters most when you want to have clinical authority on things like acne, hyperpigmentation, barrier dysfunction, aging...super important for a professional.”
• Ella [16:45]: “When we're talking about content creation and clinical care, [the] difference is clear.”

Timestamps for Important Segments

• What is a “dupe”? [02:25–04:46]
• Key differences in formulation [05:15–07:46]
• Real-life client approach to dupes [10:22–12:36]
• When drugstore products can work (and when they shouldn’t) [12:36–15:47]
• Influencer culture’s effect on skincare choices [15:48–18:20]
• Professional growth through “dupe” culture [18:26–19:02]

Final Thoughts

This episode offers practical guidance for estheticians navigating the “dupe” conversation:

• Listen without judgment, educate with specifics, and don’t shy away from drugstore options where appropriate.
• The rise of dupes is a call for deeper expertise and more nuanced client care, rather than competition or shame.

Listeners are encouraged to join the discussion:
“Are dupes replacing professional skincare, or just revealing where education is missing?” — reach out to ASCP via Instagram, Facebook, or email.