ASCP Esty Talk – Ep 383: The Rogue Pharmacist: Skin Purging

Host: Maggie Stasik (ASCP program director)
Guest: Ben Fuchs (skincare formulator and pharmacist)
Date: March 27, 2026

Episode Overview

This episode dives into the nuanced topic of skin purging, a commonly misunderstood phenomenon in the skincare world. Host Maggie Stasik and guest Ben Fuchs demystify what skin purging really is, why it happens, how to distinguish it from irritation, and the role of both internal and external factors in skin reactions. The discussion offers insightful perspectives and practical tips tailored for estheticians and skincare professionals.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

Defining Skin Purging

• Purging Mechanics

  • Purging is the process by which ingredients that speed up cell turnover bring underlying microcomedones (precursors to pimples) to the surface faster (00:33).
  • “Skin purging is a thing, but it has to—it is only associated with ingredients that pull things up, that speed up cell turnover.” — Ben Fuchs (00:35)

• Ingredients Involved

  • Most commonly caused by retinoids (retinol, retinoic acid).
  • Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) can also cause purging.
  • Occasionally: azelaic acid, urea, vitamin C (ascorbic acid), sulfur masks (03:14).

• How It Happens

  • Only occurs if microcomedones are already present—typically in clients with acne.
  • “It’s basically tomorrow’s zit coming out today, which is a good thing, because once the purging is eliminated… you don’t get any more purging. And that’s a beautiful thing.” — Ben Fuchs (04:54)

• Reducing Purging

  • “You can minimize the purging effect… use lower doses, decrease frequency, increase time between use… or mix your retinol with clay to slow down penetration.” — Ben Fuchs (05:04)
  • Internal nutrition (vitamins A, E, C; N-acetylcysteine; antioxidants) helps slow down or prevent purging (05:11).

Purging vs. Detoxification

• Myth-Busting ‘Detox’

  • “It’s not detox. No, that’s no detox. It’s a purging effect in the sense that microcomedones are being brought up to the top.” — Ben Fuchs (05:41)
  • True detox takes place via sweat or other bodily systems, not through sudden breakouts prompted by products (05:52).

• What If There's No Acne?

  • If someone without microcomedones reacts with bumps after actives, it’s likely irritation or an immune reaction—not purging (06:15).

Immune Reactions & Systemic Causes

• Immune System Role

  • “The skin is an immune organ…if an immune system reaction happens on the skin, it’s probably not the product as much as it’s a destabilized immune system.” — Ben Fuchs (07:18)
  • Immune system primarily resides in the gut; gut issues can drive skin sensitivity.
  • Histamine responses often originate from the intestine (07:58).

• Food & Histamine

  • Common foods, including ‘healthy’ ones like avocados, citrus, seafood, and cruciferous vegetables, can trigger histamine responses increasing skin reactivity (09:05).

How to Distinguish Skin Responses

• Purging vs. Irritation vs. Allergic Reactions (09:42)
  • Irritation:
    • Red, sore, painful to touch, more diffuse/rashy (macular).
    • Appears quickly after use (1–2 doses).
  • Purging:
    • Results in zits, pus, or infectious material arising from follicles.
    • Takes longer, associated with follicular breakouts.
  • Immune Reaction:
    • Quick onset, tiny white bumps, histamine-driven, may be related to gut/diet issues.
  • “If it happens quickly… you’re probably dealing with an immune reaction. If it takes time and it’s follicular… that’s probably a purging effect. And if it’s just kind of red and raw, then… irritation.” — Ben Fuchs (10:24)

Practical Advice for Estheticians & Clients

• Reactivity After Facials/Products

  • Frequent reactivity isn’t normal; the stratum corneum is an effective barrier.
  • If reactions occur from many products, look for underlying immune system/gut issues (11:32).
  • “If your skin is reacting from topical ingredients… almost guaranteed you have a destabilized immune system.” — Ben Fuchs (11:34)

• Supplements & Support

  • Supplements like DAO (diamine oxidase), vitamin C, zinc, melatonin, bioflavonoids, and quercetin can act as natural antihistamines and may reduce reactivity (12:56).
  • Hormonal changes (e.g., decreased estrogen) can increase histamine-related skin issues in women (12:52).

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• “Skin purging is a thing, but it is only associated with ingredients that pull things up, that speed up cell turnover.” — Ben Fuchs (00:35)
• “It’s basically tomorrow’s zit coming out today, which is a good thing… once those microcomodones come to the top, you don’t get any more purging.” — Ben Fuchs (04:54)
• “It’s not detox. No, that’s no detox. It’s a purging effect...” — Ben Fuchs (05:41)
• “The skin is an immune organ…if an immune system reaction happens on the skin, it’s probably not the product as much as it’s a destabilized immune system.” — Ben Fuchs (07:18)
• “If it happens quickly… you’re probably dealing with an immune reaction. If it takes time and it’s follicular… that’s probably a purging effect.” — Ben Fuchs (10:24)

Timestamps of Important Segments

• 00:33 – Ben explains what skin purging is and how it relates to cell turnover and product ingredients
• 03:14 – List of common ingredients that can cause purging
• 05:11 – Strategies for minimizing or preventing purging, including nutritional approaches
• 05:41 – Debunking the myth: Purging is not the same as skin detox
• 07:18 – Hygiene and gut health: links between immune reactions on the skin and the digestive system
• 09:42 – Differentiating between irritation, purging, and allergic (immune) reactions
• 11:32 – Advice for clients who experience frequent skin reactivity after facials or product use
• 12:56 – Natural antihistamines and hormonal influences on skin reactivity

Summary of Takeaways

• Skin purging is real but specific: it only happens with certain actives and typically only in acne-prone skin.
• Purging is often a “good thing”—it brings underlying blockages to the surface faster, clearing the path for healthier skin later.
• Not all reactions are purging: irritation and immune responses are different, with different timeframes and symptoms.
• Internal health, especially gut and immune system balance, is critical for skin resilience.
• Nutrition, supporting the gut, and understanding personal histamine triggers are practical ways to reduce negative reactions to skincare.