Podcast Summary: "The Dandy: Dressing in Defiance"

Episode Title: The Dandy: Dressing in Defiance
Podcast: Betwixt The Sheets: The History of Sex, Scandal & Society
Host: Kate Lister
Guest: Peter Anderson, Author of The Dandy: A People's History of Sartorial Splendor
Release Date: May 13, 2025

Introduction to Dandyism

In this episode of Betwixt The Sheets, host Kate Lister delves into the intriguing world of dandyism with guest historian Peter Anderson. The discussion explores the historical and cultural significance of dandies, their evolution across different eras, and their impact on society.

Kate Lister:
"The dandy, defined in the Oxford English Dictionary as one who studies above everything to dress elegantly and fashionably... But what is dandyism?"
(04:50)

Historical Context and Origins

Peter Anderson begins by redefining the traditional perception of dandies, moving beyond the aristocratic and intellectual stereotype to encompass a more widespread, popular phenomenon.

Peter Anderson:
"The common definition of the dandy is a man who dresses distinctively, who cares a lot about his appearance, and perhaps also who has a sort of aristocratic air about himself... But my book is about popular dandyism."
(07:21)

Beau Brummell and Early Dandies

The conversation shifts to Beau Brummell, often hailed as the archetypal dandy of the Regency period. Anderson highlights Brummell's influence on men's fashion and his paradoxical life.

Peter Anderson:
"He was a man who sort of lingered about the royal court... very much the stereotypical dandy in the way that he cared very much about his appearance... but living quite a sort of superficial, short-minded existence."
(10:07)

Expansion and Popularization in the 19th Century

Anderson discusses how dandyism evolved in the 19th century, becoming associated with literary figures and branching into various subcultures.

Kate Lister:
"They are a lot of tailoring and it's a lot of sort of lines across the body and emphasizing it. But they're different from like fops and macaronis, aren't they?"
(08:54)

Peter Anderson:
"In the late Victorian era, 'mashers' emerged... a culture completely separate from the aestheticism and the intellectual culture that surrounded a man like Oscar Wilde."
(26:12)

The Paradox of Masculinity and Effeminacy

A significant portion of the discussion centers on the contradictory nature of dandies, who embody both masculine and feminine traits, challenging societal norms.

Peter Anderson:
"The dandy is very paradoxical. He's both upper class and lower class. He's both effeminate and masculine... It's a bit difficult to pinpoint."
(13:03)

Subcultures and Evolution of Dandyism

Black Dandies

Anderson explores the emergence of Black dandies in post-abolition societies, highlighting their role in defying racial stereotypes and asserting identity through fashion.

Peter Anderson:
"Black dandyism becomes widespread among the freed slaves... there is very much a defiance in that particular form of dandyism."
(17:10)

Mashers

The term "mashers" refers to dandies who frequented theaters and engaged in obsessive pursuits of actresses, embodying the male gaze of the late Victorian era.

Peter Anderson:
"Mashers... they think they have a relationship with one of these girls... it's a culture of ogling."
(27:09)

Transgender and Female Dandies

The discussion touches on the presence of female dandies and transgender dandies, particularly in interwar Paris and Berlin, showcasing the fluidity of gender expression within dandyism.

Peter Anderson:
"In the interwar period... transgender dandies were common, dressing in male garb like tuxedos and monocles."
(24:03)

Teddy Boys

Anderson explains the transformation of dandyism into more aggressive subcultures like the Teddy Boys of the 1950s, who projected masculinity through fashion despite their origins in dandyism.

Peter Anderson:
"Teddy Boys... associated with criminals and gangs, emphasizing masculinity to thwart effeminacy."
(36:24)

The Decline and Modern Echoes of Dandyism

Concluding the episode, Anderson reflects on the waning presence of traditional dandyism and its potential modern counterparts, such as hipsters, who embody similar values of distinct personal style and defiance against mainstream fashion norms.

Peter Anderson:
"My hypothesis is that maybe the hipster is the dandy of the 21st century... it has nothing to do with a suit but more with stylized working-class dress."
(40:43)

Kate Lister:
"It's interesting that earlier dandies imitated and satirized the upper classes, while hipsters are performing working-class fashion."
(41:00)

Concluding Insights

The episode provides a comprehensive overview of dandyism, emphasizing its role as a form of social and cultural defiance. Through historical analysis and exploration of various subcultures, Anderson and Lister illustrate how dandyism reflects broader societal shifts and individual expressions of identity.

Peter Anderson:
"There has been a change from the conservative, disciplined male ideal towards a more informal, cool male ideal. This transition is a key aspect of how dandyism has evolved."
(41:11)

Kate Lister:
"Peter, you have been fascinating to talk to. Thank you so much."
(42:08)

Further Information

For those interested in exploring the history of dandyism further, Peter Anderson's book, The Dandy: A People's History of Sartorial Splendor, provides an in-depth analysis and can be found at Museum of Cultural History in Lund.

Notable Quotes:

• Kate Lister:
  "What is dandyism? What must one do to become a dandy? Do you have to be a man? Is that the rule? Can girlies be dandies too?"
  (04:50)

• Peter Anderson:
  "The dandy is very paradoxical. He's both upper class and lower class. He's both effeminate and masculine."
  (13:03)

• Kate Lister:
  "It's a lot of tailoring and it's a lot of sort of lines across the body and emphasizing it. But they're different from like fops and macaronis, aren't they?"
  (08:54)

• Peter Anderson:
  "Maybe the hipster is the dandy of the 21st century... it has nothing to do with a suit but more with stylized working-class dress."
  (40:43)

This episode offers a nuanced exploration of dandyism, highlighting its enduring legacy and transformation across centuries. Whether you're a history enthusiast or curious about the intersections of fashion and societal norms, this conversation provides valuable insights into the subtle art of dressing in defiance.