Biohacking Beauty: The Anti-Aging Skincare Podcast Episode: Why Pigmentation Gets Worse With Age (and How to Reverse It)
Release Date: August 13, 2025
Host: Amitai Eshel
Co-Host: Anastasia Hojai

Introduction

In this episode of Biohacking Beauty, hosts Amitai Eshel and Anastasia Hojai delve deep into the topic of skin pigmentation, exploring why it becomes more pronounced with age and how to effectively reverse its effects. The discussion is anchored in scientific insights and practical biohacks aimed at achieving a more youthful and even skin tone.

Understanding Pigmentation and Its Worsening with Age

Anastasia Hojai kicks off the conversation by defining pigmentation and explaining its increase as we age.

“Pigmentation isn’t just cosmetic. It’s often a reflection of underlying cellular stress.”
— Anastasia Hojai [00:49]

Pigmentation, or hyperpigmentation, occurs when melanocytes produce excess melanin, leading to dark spots such as sunspots, melasma, or post-inflammatory marks from acne or injury. Anastasia emphasizes that while sun exposure is a major trigger, hormones, medications, inflammation, and oxidative stress also significantly contribute. As skin ages, its ability to regulate melanin production diminishes, making pigmentation more persistent.

Cellular Mechanisms Behind Pigmentation

Amitai Eshel delves into the cellular processes that exacerbate pigmentation with aging.

“UV exposure and inflammation activate tyrosinase, the enzyme that drives melanin production.”
— Amitai Eshel [03:29]

He explains that UV rays and inflammation trigger tyrosinase, an enzyme that stimulates melanocytes to produce melanin. Aging cells accumulate oxidative stress, further enhancing this process through pathways like WNT Beta and, in certain conditions, JAK Stat. This cellular stress leads to persistent and more stubborn pigmentation, especially in deeper skin tones where post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation can last for months.

Misconceptions and Comprehensive Approaches to Pigmentation

Anastasia Hojai addresses common misconceptions, asserting that pigmentation is not solely due to sun damage.

“The real fix requires addressing both external triggers and internal imbalances.”
— Anastasia Hojai [04:51]

She emphasizes that to effectively manage pigmentation, one must tackle both the external factors (like sun exposure) and internal issues (such as hormonal imbalances and inflammation). Ignoring these internal mechanisms can lead to rebound pigmentation despite external treatments.

Tracking and Identifying Triggers

Amitai Eshel suggests practical methods for tracking pigmentation to identify triggers.

“Start by tracking your pigmentation. Log when spots appear after sun exposure, acne, or hormonal changes.”
— Amitai Eshel [05:09]

He recommends taking weekly photos under consistent lighting to monitor changes and identify patterns related to sun exposure, acne breakouts, or hormonal fluctuations, such as those during the menstrual cycle or hormonal therapy.

Hormonal Influence and Estrogen Creams

A significant portion of the discussion focuses on the impact of hormones, particularly estrogen, on pigmentation.

“Estrogen stimulates WNT Beta, which can drive hyperpigmentation.”
— Amitai Eshel [06:01]

Amitai highlights an often-overlooked issue: individuals undergoing hormone replacement therapy and using estrogen creams may experience increased pigmentation as estrogen activates the WNT Beta pathway. Anastasia notes that while estrogen creams can be beneficial, it's crucial to mitigate the associated photosensitivity by using protective measures like SPF.

The Crucial Role of Sunscreen (SPF)

Both hosts underscore the indispensable role of sunscreen in managing pigmentation.

“UV exposure is the most consistent driver of melanin production. Daily SPF use can reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation by up to 98% in skin of color.”
— Amitai Eshel [07:24]

Anastasia elaborates on the multifaceted benefits of SPF, explaining that it not only blocks UV rays but also contains physical blockers like zinc oxide and anti-inflammatory agents like iron oxide. These components help reduce flare-ups in conditions such as melasma. She advises using broad-spectrum SPF 40, emphasizing the importance of proper application to ensure full coverage. Additionally, Anastasia reminds listeners that physical sunscreens need to be reapplied after activities like sweating or washing the face.

Skincare Ingredients for Managing Pigmentation

The discussion transitions to effective skincare ingredients that help regulate pigmentation.

Classic Pigment Regulators

Anastasia Hojai introduces well-researched pigments regulators:

• THDA (Lipid-Based Vitamin C):

  “THDA is a stable, lipid-soluble form of vitamin C that inhibits tyrosinase and reduces oxidative stress, performing on par with hydroquinone for some users with fewer side effects.”
  — Anastasia Hojai [13:17]

• Ergothioneine:

  “Ergothioneine addresses hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin synthesis and neutralizing reactive oxygen species.”
  — Anastasia Hojai [13:24]

• Kojic Acid: Blocks tyrosinase and is especially useful for post-acne marks but is more effective for non-sensitive skin types.

• Azelaic Acid: Comparable to hydroquinone, particularly effective for darker skin types but less so for lighter skin.

  “Azelaic acid did not perform better than placebo with Caucasian skin.”
  — Amitai Eshel [14:54]

• Tranexamic Acid and Licorice Root Extract: Plant-based options that offer multi-pathway inhibition of pigmentation without side effects.

Deeper Acting Longevity Molecules

Anastasia discusses molecules that not only regulate pigmentation but also promote overall skin health:

• Resveratrol: A potent antioxidant that inhibits tyrosinase and reduces inflammation, making it a suitable alternative to hydroquinone for sensitive skin.

• NAD+ Precursors and Spermidine: These support DNA repair, mitochondrial function, and clear cellular waste, creating an environment conducive to even skin healing.

Honorable Mentions

Amitai Eshel touches upon additional ingredients like glycolic acid and retinol, which accelerate skin turnover and aid in pigmentation management.

Advanced Treatments: Laser Therapy

When pigmentation becomes stubborn, laser therapy emerges as a viable option. The hosts discuss the nuances of laser treatments:

“Lasers work by breaking up melanin clusters so your body can remove them naturally.”
— Anastasia Hojai [23:26]

Anastasia explains different types of lasers:

• 730nm Titanium Sapphire Lasers: High efficacy (up to 88%) for melasma and dermal pigmentation.
• High Nanometer Lasers (e.g., 1000nm): Ideal for deeper lesions.
• IPL (Intense Pulsed Light): Suitable for more superficial spots.

Amitai emphasizes the importance of matching laser technology to individual skin types:

“Find a provider experienced with your specific skin type to avoid adverse effects.”
— Amitai Eshel [28:01]

Anastasia advises thorough preparation and aftercare, including the use of tyrosinase inhibitors, NAD+ precursors, spermidine, sunblock, and ergothioneine. She also suggests adopting a low-inflammatory diet and incorporating antioxidants like Glycidin during the laser treatment period.

Skincare Protocols and Recommendations

The hosts outline a comprehensive skincare protocol to manage pigmentation effectively:

1. Morning and Night:

   • Apply serums containing ergothioneine and/or THDA vitamin C.
   • Use NAD+ APEX products to support DNA repair and mitochondrial function.

2. Daily Protection:

   • Consistently use broad-spectrum SPF 40 with zinc oxide.
   • Reapply sunscreen after sweating or washing the face.

3. Dietary Support:

   • Boost NAD+ through consumption of foods like wild salmon, poultry, and fermented vegetables.
   • Increase spermidine intake via wheat germ and other spermidine-rich foods.

4. Advanced Supplements:

   • Incorporate supplements such as Glycidin and ergothioneine (both topical and oral) to enhance antioxidant defenses.

5. Tracking Progress:

   • Take before and after photos to monitor the effectiveness of the protocol.
   • Consider blood panels if introducing new supplements to track bodily responses.

Conclusion and Final Thoughts

Wrapping up the episode, Amitai Eshel and Anastasia Hojai reiterate the importance of a multi-faceted approach to managing pigmentation. They emphasize combining external treatments like SPF and targeted serums with internal support through diet and supplements. For those considering laser treatments, they advise thorough research and professional consultation to ensure safe and effective outcomes.

“Your skin deserves the future, not just another cream.”
— Anastasia Hojai [27:06]

The hosts encourage listeners to implement the discussed strategies diligently to achieve healthier, more youthful skin.

Notable Quotes:

• Anastasia Hojai [00:49]: “Pigmentation isn’t just cosmetic. It’s often a reflection of underlying cellular stress.”
• Amitai Eshel [03:29]: “UV exposure and inflammation activate tyrosinase, the enzyme that drives melanin production.”
• Anastasia Hojai [04:51]: “The real fix requires addressing both external triggers and internal imbalances.”
• Amitai Eshel [07:24]: “Daily SPF use can reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation by up to 98% in skin of color.”
• Anastasia Hojai [13:17]: “THDA is a stable, lipid-soluble form of vitamin C that inhibits tyrosinase and reduces oxidative stress.”
• Anastasia Hojai [23:26]: “Lasers work by breaking up melanin clusters so your body can remove them naturally.”
• Anastasia Hojai [27:06]: “Your skin deserves the future, not just another cream.”

Resources Mentioned:

• Products: Yungoos BioShield SPF 40
• Experts: Dr. Molly Malouf, Dr. Amy Keelan
• Supplements: Glycidin (available on Amazon), ergothioneine (e.g., Quicksilver Scientific)

Connect with Biohacking Beauty: For more insights and personalized skincare solutions, visit yungoos.com and explore their range of scientifically-backed products designed to rejuvenate and maintain youthful skin.