Breaking Beauty Podcast Episode Summary

Episode: Are You Treating Your Pores the Right Way? From Blackheads to Sebaceous Filaments, Extractions and More: We Ask a Derm to Decode

Date: November 7, 2025
Hosts: Jill Dunn & Carlene Higgins
Guest: Dr. Whitney Tolpenrud, Board-Certified Dermatologist, Medical Director at Curology

Episode Overview

This episode dives deep into all things pores—demystifying blackheads, whiteheads, and sebaceous filaments, while providing science-based advice on extractions, skincare routines, and the latest prescription-grade solutions for pore care. The hosts welcome Dr. Whitney Tolpenrud to bust myths and share cutting-edge dermatological insights, with a particular focus on new innovations like Curology's Day Prime Rx, the first-ever prescription acne primer.

Key Discussion Points & Expert Insights

1. What Are Pores and Why Do We Have Them?

[04:21]

• Dr. Tolpenrud: "Pores are tiny openings for hair follicles and sebaceous glands in the skin and they help to release oil and sweat ... helping protect the skin, hydrate it, and regulate temperature."
• Pores are a natural and necessary part of skin health.

2. Can We Really ‘Open’ or ‘Close’ Pores?

[05:15]

• Myth: Pores open and close.
• Dr. Tolpenrud: "They do not open and close ... there's no muscle to contract. Heat can loosen debris, cold can reduce swelling, but actual pore size remains unchanged."

3. How Pores Change with Age

[06:33]

• With age, collagen and elastin break down, causing pores to sag and appear larger.
• Dr. Tolpenrud: "[With time] our collagen and elastin start to fade ... it's like a deflated balloon, if you will."

4. What Causes Pores to Clog?

[07:47]

• Hormones during puberty cause the skin to produce more oil/sebum and dead skin cells, leading to clogging.
• Pollution and external dirt also contribute.
• Dr. Tolpenrud: "The skin gets a little bit stickier ... pollution creates this microenvironment."

5. Blackheads, Whiteheads, and Sebaceous Filaments—What’s the Difference?

[10:19]

• Sebaceous filaments: Tube-like structures conducting oil to the skin; often confused with blackheads.
• Blackheads: Open comedones (clogged pores exposed to oxygen and oxidized).
• Whiteheads: Closed comedones (trapped beneath the skin).
• Dr. Tolpenrud: "[Sebaceous filaments] were not a big topic ... but are now being recognized as common and normal."

6. The Life Cycle of a Clogged Pore

[13:07]

• Missing a face wash or two won’t instantly clog pores; buildup occurs over a longer cycle.
• Gentle extractions by skilled estheticians can help but avoid aggressive methods to prevent skin damage.
• Dr. Tolpenrud: "Everything gentle. Sometimes you can do more damage by having kind of those more intense extractions."

7. Critters in Your Pores: Bacteria, Mites, and Yeast

[15:03]

• Demodex mites and the yeast (Pityrosporum) naturally inhabit skin and pores.
• Rosacea Connection: Demodex associated with rosacea; treated with topical ivermectin.
• Fungal Acne: Itchy, small bumps (especially after sweating)—zinc-based treatments may help.

8. Personalized Prescription Ingredients for Pore Care

[20:02]

• OTC: Salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide are good starts for mild acne.
• RX: Tretinoin (retinoid), azelaic acid, spironolactone (can be compounded topically), zinc, topical antibiotics like clindamycin.
• Dr. Tolpenrud: "Prescription treatments are more effective than over-the-counter ... tretinoin helps to cycle the skin a little bit faster and unclog those pores."

9. Purging: Myth or Reality?

[24:24]

• Purging is a real, though temporary, reaction—acne may worsen before it improves as actives work.
• Curology starts with low tretinoin concentrations, increasing gradually to minimize side effects and irritation.
• Dr. Tolpenrud: "Purging ... is a thing. It's actually a good thing—you're helping to kind of clear out the acne that is down below."

10. Personalization and Care Continuity at Curology

[26:35]

• Patients can message their provider 24/7; formulas adjusted as needed.
• Dr. Tolpenrud: "It's white glove service for our patients. It's been really amazing."

Spotlight: Curology Day Prime Rx — The Acne-Treating, Blurring Primer

[27:44]

• The first prescription acne treatment + makeup primer.
• Supports 12-hour makeup wear and addresses shine, redness, and skin texture.
• Customizable formulas for acne, rosacea, dark spots, or glowy skin—actives chosen per need.
• [29:47] Dr. Tolpenrud: "It was designed for acne, but we have non-acne formulations as well ... customizable for many concerns."
• Prescription actives may include: Clindamycin, azelaic acid, salicylic acid, zinc, niacinamide, panthenol.

The Ideal Pore Care Routine

Daytime (with Day Prime Rx)

[32:28]

• Cleanser
• (Optional) Moisturizer (especially if dry or normal skin)
• Day Prime Rx
• Sunscreen
• Makeup (if desired, but not necessary)

Quote [Dr. Tolpenrud, 33:30]:
"Let your skincare do the hard work for you, but keep your routine more simple and ... match the ingredients with what you're trying to target."

Nighttime

[34:17]

• Cleanser (gentle)
• Retinoid or prescription actives (pea-sized amount)
• Thicker moisturizer

In-Office Treatments (for advanced care):

[35:24]

• Chemical peels, lasers (fractionated, collagen-stimulating), microneedling for pore visibility and skin texture

Dr. Tolpenrud: "Make sure you're going to someone with expertise and who’s certified."

Rapid Fire: Myth vs Fact on Pore Treatments

[37:19]

• Pore strips: Safe if used gently; don’t overdo it.
• Pimple patches: Great for absorbing oil and pus.
• Pore vacuums: Caution—can cause bruising or irritation.
• Clay masks: Temporarily absorb oil, but drying; don’t overuse.
• Oil cleansers: Effective as oil attracts oil; follow up with a gentle cleanser.
• Salicylic acid: Yes, it’s the gold standard for breaking up nose gunk.
• Sun exposure: FACT—Chronic UV breaks down collagen, making pores look larger.

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On why pores don’t “open and close”:

  “They do not open and close ... there’s no muscle to contract. Heat can loosen debris, cold can reduce swelling, but actual pore size remains unchanged.”
  — Dr. Whitney Tolpenrud [05:15]

• On purging and tretinoin fears:

  "Don't be afraid ... it's temporary, you can get through it, and it's manageable."
  — Dr. Whitney Tolpenrud [25:45]

• On the new prescription primer:

  "You don't have to choose between covering up and treating at the same time ... multitasking at its finest."
  — Dr. Whitney Tolpenrud [27:44]

Important Timestamps

• [04:21] – Pore function and physiology
• [05:15] – Opening/closing pores myth
• [06:33] – Aging and pore size
• [10:19] – Blackheads, whiteheads, sebaceous filaments explained
• [13:07] – Life cycle of clogged pores & extraction advice
• [15:03] – Bacteria, mites, and yeast in pores
• [20:02] – Key prescription ingredients for pore care
• [24:24] – Purging: is it real?
• [27:44] – Curology Day Prime Rx breakdown
• [32:28] – Recommended pore care routine
• [35:24] – In-office treatments for pores
• [37:19] – Rapid-fire myth-busting

Episode Tone & Style

Conversational, insightful, and science-backed. Dr. Tolpenrud’s expertise is presented with clarity and warmth, and the hosts bring lightness, curiosity, and relatability to topics both clinical and personal.

This summary captures the full spectrum of science, practical advice, and new product innovations discussed in the episode—ideal for listeners wanting key takeaways and actionable tips without missing the derm-approved truths and latest trends in pore care.